/ NEWS: Tom Peckitt Climbs Hard Almscliff Link-Up

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC News - on 06 Mar 2009
[Tom Peckitt on the starting section of Bulbhaul, Almscliff, 3 kb]Leeds based climber Tom Peckitt has added perhaps the hardest link to date with his Bulbhaul at a tentative Font 8B+.

Bulbhaul is on the Keel boulder and links the C&A Traverse into The Bulb without using the block at the back of the roof.



Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=46366
margie - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Well done Tom!!

Good effort!
tombeasley - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News: nice one Tom!
Lemony - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News: Blimey, effort!
Alex1 - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News:
What are the grades of the individual problems?
Lemony - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to necromancer85: 7a (V6) and 7C+ (V10).

Lemony - on 06 Mar 2009
Tom Peckitt - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to necromancer85:

C&A traverse is 7a but then you have to reverse the V4 crack problem into the roof, this is pretty tricky. There are acouple of methods (I find my high foot and cut loose method the easiest/shortest). Not sure of grade for those moves. Then you do the bulb from this crack which has been conformed at 8a+.

That should be justification for the proposed grade. Additionally, the last Bulb move feels more difficult than the last move of Real Keelhaul, which is certainly 8b (and a hard one IMO). The holds are better but the move is more strenuous. After all those previous moves it is really draining.
Adam Lincoln - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to Lemony:
> (In reply to necromancer85) 7a (V6) and 7C+ (V10).

Err, not quite!
BenNorman - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News: wow impressive. Hardest problem on grit?
Adam Lincoln - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to b3n99:
> (In reply to UKC News) wow impressive. Hardest problem on grit?

Voyager sit start probably hardest...?
James Oswald - on 06 Mar 2009
In reply to UKC News:
Good work.
Was it a long standing LGP which had been tried before or just a cool looking eliminatey link? :)
James
Tom Peckitt - on 07 Mar 2009
In reply to james oswald:

I suppose people know that there are still link ups to go on this boulder but I'm not sure anyone else was trying the full link. Nacho Sanchez (a very strong Shef-based climber) did the bulb from the obvious crack without the block but thought he may not have the stamina for the full thing. They (Bulbhaul and Real Keelhaul) are still really good problems from this obvious crack.

Maybe the next step is to continue this Bulbhaul link into Natural Traverse. That'll be seriously difficult and arm melting!

As for hardest problem on grit, I have no idea. Grades are very subjective. I haven't tried Voyager or the SDS but it looks nails (and painful).
Keeg - on 07 Mar 2009
In reply to Tom Peckitt:
Just wondering. In the clip of your failed attempt the clip starts from a couple of moves into c and a. Is this where you start from for bulbhaul (and keelhaul, real keelhaul) or has editing/recording etc cut off the start of the attempt? Sorry this is a really geeky question but I'm keen to get one (or more) of these ticked so would appreciate a clarification.
James Oswald - on 07 Mar 2009
In reply to Tom Peckitt:
Anyway well done!
Keeg - on 08 Mar 2009
In reply to Keeg:
Oh yeah obviously bon effort.
Tom Peckitt - on 09 Mar 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Well spotted. I start Bulbhaul and Real Keelhaul from the big pocket with RH and sloper with LH (as per video). The reason is that when I first did Keelhaul this was the starting point, which the first ascensionist used also (Andy Swann). I suppose it has just stuck and is an obvious starting point.

Good luck with your attempts. It would be really nice to get a consensus if you do any of them.
Keeg - on 09 Mar 2009
In reply to Tom Peckitt:
So does Keelhaul start from there also? I hope so because I really struggle with those first couple of moves from the big jug round the corner for some reason.

I'll keep you posted on my thoughts not that I lay any claim to grading knowledge....
Tom Peckitt - on 09 Mar 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Yeah, Keelhaul also starts from there. They all do.
I know what you mean about those first moves on C&A trav. They're not actually very hard at all, just very knacky.

"I'll keep you posted on my thoughts not that I lay any claim to grading knowledge"
I know how you feel ; )
Keeg - on 09 Mar 2009
In reply to Tom Peckitt:
Thats the best news I've had this year!

I agree, they're not that hard but as you say knacky and weirdly tiring, strange.
ads.ukclimbing.com
bentley's biceps - on 09 Mar 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Yeah, Keeg. You go ahead and do the cop-out version.

It's only yourself you'll be cheating......

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.