UKC

I have been using the Neutrino for the last 3 months and so far it has had several outings on Welsh and Scottish mountains as well as being used regularly as a cragging belay jacket in the Peak District. It's also proved very useful for belay duty on winter visits to chilly local climbing walls and it recently spent time in a French ski resort and went to Cogne for a few days. So how did it perform? Mountaineering Instructor, Paul Lewis gives us his verdict...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1588

In reply to UKC Gear: My Rab jacket is already unstitching after only 3 months, my old mans vapour rise trousers have too. Doesn't seem as well made anymore. I've now had faults with the last 3 jackets.

In reply to UKC Gear: I've had 2 neutrinos in the past 2 years. Brilliant jacket, but not too hard wearing. The endurance shell rips easily, so more of a belay jacket than anything you might consider climbing in.

In reply to UKC Gear: I got a secondhand one off here in very bright orange. Absolutley love it. Kept me warm in -15 temps in switzerland, and freezing temps in Wyoming last month.

In reply to UKC Gear:

never really got on with the RAB fit but tried on a mate's one and it seemed ok...defo warm enough for winter cragging.

fleece lined pockets a la mountain hardwear would be a nice addition.

In reply to UKC Gear:

It might be useful to know there are 3 versions of the Neutrino (which I found out after a bit of research recently):

Endurance: 220g of 750 fill power down, total weight 625g
Edge: 250g of 750 fill power down, total weight 695g
Andes: 330g of 750 fill power down, total weight 990g

Also, the Oxford Go Outdoors shop was flogging the Edge version for a mere £110 two weekends ago, where I got mine. Bargain!

In reply to jeffsheard:

Rock and Run selling the Edge for £120 just now. Tempted but not sure of the fit. Supect it's different from the Endurance which suits my shape.

I have had a Neutrino for a few years now, and had one of the last 'Made in Sheffield' jackets. I think the quality of the jacket has gone rapidly downhill since the manufacturing was moved to the far east. I saw an 'identical' jacket to mine not too long ago and did not even realise it was the same! The filling and finish of the jacket was to a much lesser quality and I certainly would not have invested in a 'newer' one. I also have issues with the front zip - it always seems to catch on the internal zip barrier which is slowly being destroyed as I tear it back out.

However, in general it is an exceptional down jacket. Warmth to weight ratio I have never found better. I wore it this winter for my alpine climbing trip, really testing it to its limits and it provided the warmth I needed, whilst still packing small enough and being light enough to be popped in my rucksack. It is also a nice light jacket to take to the crag on a summers evening.

I would definitely recommend this jacket, but would suggest you look around a bit first as quality does seem to vary.

Steve

Here is a picture of me last week at the Col de Montets in the Alps with my jacket.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=6299783&id=606620182

In reply to UKC Gear:

Following my review I have heard from Rab today that the zip issue mentioned in the review has had a chin guard added in the latest production run and the zip pullers are now more glove friendly to use.

They are also looking in to changing the stuff sack design in the future.

Cheers,
Paul

In reply to peakpaul:

Oops. Should have said that production run will be the jackets appearing in shops next winter.

Cheers,
Paul