In reply to UKC Articles:
Nice to see The Red getting a bit of attention for a change. Can't wait for a 3rd trip after the quality of climbing on the last two. Dave's article only really covers a couple of main areas and there's stacks more to go at at all grades (although the best sport stuff is mainly 5.10 upwards).
Routes like Mercy The Huff (5.12b/F7b) at Left Flank, Steelworker (5.12c/F7b+) at Torrent Falls and Orange Juice (5.12c/F7b+) at Funk Rock City are amongst the best routes I've done anywhere at the grade. In the easier grades, King Me (5.11b/F6c) at Skybridge Ridge is close to perfect.
As for the wishlist, it grows ever longer when I see the pictures in the new guide. Table of Colors and Stunning The Hog at Left Flank, BOHICA and Team Wilson at The Motherlode, a visit to The Dark Side - all things that are likely to mean that my next trip to the States won't get me any further west than Lexington.