In reply to the Reeves, Alderson and Dunn comments and others
At Awesome Walls Stockport the other day I encountered two young climbers who
were doing a 5b-ish climb but clearly had a very weak understanding of
belaying, particularly low down on the first three clips. I asked them if they
had been to a proper crag ... somewhere like Windgather which I commended
(along with one or two other spots) as a good place to learn ones basic
protection and belay skills. The answer was no as they couldn't afford the
equipment. I suspect these two lads will go on to become accomplished sport
climbers but at the same time will they develop few of the skills and instincts
necessary for staying alive in an unequipped environment?
That is the problem... trad climbing is a good basis for learning one's skills
as it is analogous to normal driving on a normal road with all the dangers and
unexpected events that implies. Sport climbing and competitions are rather like
learning to climb on a Grand Prix circuit, very fast, hard and sexy but not the
same as driving on a normal road and learning as we develop our judgements and
confidence. Very few of us wish to be champions, but we do seek competence
judgement skills.
I think the latest range of comments confirm my suspicions of a faction within
the BMC wishing to push more competitions and more coaching to support
competitors in such events and others seeking to excel in sport climbing.
Scott, incidentally, is a Piolet d'Or judge. These consider, usually, major
feats of alpinism, the real highpoints of the year's climbing (test matches
rather than 20-20). He intends to urge reform there too by commending the idea
that there should be no clear winner and that all the selected climbers should
get it as it is invidious to name a winner from among a mixed bag of
outstanding "proper" (usually alpine or Himalayan) climbs. The sport climbers,
climbing walls, competition organisers etc love the clear cut winners standing
garlanded on their podiums but they should know that such feats, though
certainly involving a high level of athletic skill and determination, are a
form of "fool's gold". Most of us still know who the true "champions" are ..
they are those who go boldly forth on rock, snow and ice and overcome, with all
its uncertainties, the unknown (both Rab and Doug in the past have been such
figures and I notice that Nick Colton in this month's CLIMB, has reminded us of
two others from the past ... Gordon Smith and Tobin Sorenson for their climbs
on the Eiger and the Grandes Jorasses in the 1970s).
But top performance really takes place on memorable occasions for climbers of
all grades and ages. We all know when we have pulled of such a feat in our own
level of climbing and we are proud of it, and our peers celebrate with us. That
is what makes the sport so fine and, incidently, it includes bouldering and is
probably a good reason for that activity's increased popularity.
The general tenor of these responses (particularly those from trainers and
climbing wall owners) merely increase my anxiety about the "hidden agenda"
supporting the Carrington candidacy. But anyway, at least whole matter is now
getting a full airing.
Ken Wilson