UKC

Hi,
After seconding the pitch after the scoop on hammer last weekend I was wondering how most people climb the crux traverse right.

There were some obvious small holds the first a dink/edge the second a small pinch and the third going for an edge pull with your right hand. It looked like the dink used to be a hold which was broken, in those days did people traverse right with their feet on these holds?

Also there is a ripple about 2-3 metres bellow these holds that looked like you could use it for your feet.

Which is the easiest sequence through here?

We both used the small holds for hands but the sequence felt like 5b/5c to me that way and the feet were quite poor and insecure in places. Comments on UKC seem to suggest using the ripple for feet maybe easier..

Thanks,
Stevo

In reply to CurlyStevo:

No hands foot traverse along the quartz(?!) seam 'ripple'.

My mate backed off after looking at the 'hand holds' and not fancying it. I had a quick look and instantly dismissed it as being far harder, then dropped down to the more obvious foot traverse.

Cheers,
Adam

In reply to Adam1973:
yeah that was my first rock route since sept last year and not been indoors much so didn't trust my initial judegment that the seam looked easier. Got accross anyway, but only just and thought 'glad I didn't lead that!'

In reply to Adam1973:
what tech grade did you think it was?

In reply to CurlyStevo:

You're not allowed to use words like Sequence and Beta on trad routes below E7.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

I have next to no memory, but I think the foot (toe) traverse was about 5a/b, and all I remember about the higher line is that it looked to be significantly harder than that.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Hammer is another one of the routes on the Etive slabs that used to use aid but the fact is no longer mentioned in the guidebooks.

When I fist did it in the 70s you used to tension traverse across the slab, doing it free was considered 5c at that time but it may be considered easier these days with everyone wearing sticky rubber. Whatever grade the traverse out from the corner is, it's not 4c.

In reply to Removed User: I'm guessing swastika was, and often still is usually aided at the top?

In reply to Removed User:

and the scoop used to be harder until some idiot took a hammer to it in the 70's

In reply to CurlyStevo:

I only remember some faint nubbin that I pressed down on with my thumb to get to the 'footholds' further right. Can't comment on the grade, I think I was starting to lead HVS at the time and I thought that one move was fng desperate. Top route though.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

I gave it 5b in Scottish Rock Climbs. The only route I upgraded on the Slabs, whereas some others were downgraded. Can't remember how I did it, just that it was hard (and others agreed).

In reply to CurlyStevo:

I've always foot-traversed the ripple, which is thin and probably 5b as per SMC selected guide. It does put you in a better position relative to gear in the corner!

In reply to CurlyStevo:

For maximum impact the crux move is at its best when clad in green slime.

Slugain

In reply to Removed User

Glad you mentioned it as the tension traverse is no longer mentioned in any of the more recent guidebooks and with a high runner where the old peg used to be is still my preferred method for leading the traverse, especially with the usual water weep mid pitch. The seconds aren't that keen on it though...!
It's amazing the amount of FA aid info that is now missing from the more recent guide books. I wish I still had Hamish MacInnes old guidebook rather than a few dog eared photocopies from it!!!
Just looked at my copy of Ken Crocket's guidebook (circu 1980) and I see where you got the 4c grade from but then very few routes pre 70/80's routes were harder than VS...

In reply to Fultonius:

See...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=311551

..the answer is yes.

Yes Dave Mc reckons e3 free I had a go and it felt harder than Yosemite 5.10 !

In reply to CurlyStevo: Eh, does dave mcleod really think is E3???? That strikes me an untruth!

In reply to CurlyStevo: Ah wait, your talking about swastika, ignore my last post!