/ NEW ARTICLE: Lofoten

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UKC Articles - on 30 Apr 2009
[Rein, south Lofoten with the dramatic Breiflogtinden (750m) in the distance. This huge pillar is home to two routes., 2 kb]

"Friendly locals, quiet crags and world class scenery! You will be astounded!"

"Where?" I hear you cry. Lofoten of course!

Guidebook author Chris Craggs flies the flag for this rock-climbing paradise...



Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1819
the cassin ridge - on 30 Apr 2009
In reply to UKC Articles:
> quiet crags
>
That is until Rockfax came along. ;-)
In reply to the cassin ridge:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
> [...]
> That is until Rockfax came along. ;-)

I think "until Rockfax were asked to help with the guide" might be more accurate.


Chris

;-p
Wibble Wibble - on 01 May 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Nevermind this rock climbing milarky, what's the winter climbing and mountaineering like?
In reply to Wibble Wibble:

Pretty damn bonza:

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/tr/exploringtheiceclimbsofnorthernnorway

is a report from this winter's International Ice Meet. Check out the photo links


Chris
francois - on 01 May 2009
Chris,

do you know if there ia any potential for reasonable graded routes for winter bumblies? Say up to Scottish IV? Or is it all hardcore?

Francois
Wibble Wibble - on 01 May 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Ta. It's on the list (but it's a very long and growing list!)
francoisecall - on 01 May 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs: Pity he does not mention that Duncan Tunstall and myself also established a route during these 2 days in Rulten!
In reply to francoisecall:

Keep the details, there may be a winter guide in the pipeline.

Chris
Daniel Armitage - on 01 May 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to the cassin ridge)
> [...]
>
> I think "until Rockfax were asked to help with the guide" might be more accurate.
>
>
> Chris
>
> ;-p

I'm having a months holiday climbing up north this summer. Lofoten, Kvaløya, Stetind etc... It will be interesting to see what impact the new guide has had on the area.

The popularity of Bohuslan in Sweden has for me, in many ways started to become part of its undoing. Fantastic guide, great climbing, and loads of climbers shiteing in the woods. Now the whole place stinks!

Im not passing any judgement, the guide is gorgeous, well produced and informative. I just hope we as climbers are not going to ruin a very beautiful place by increasing its popularity.
In reply to Daniel Armitage:

It is a tricky issue to be sure, and I discussed the possible impact with co-author Thorbjørn Enevold whist we were working on the book. Last summer saw markedly more people at the Gandalf camping than previously, so there is certainly potential for problems, especially of sanitation.

Guidebooks (especially good ones) make areas popular, there is no way round that - not producing them because areas might get spoilt would be a bit Draconian though.

Chris
Morgan Woods - on 02 May 2009
In reply to francois:
> Chris,
>
> do you know if there ia any potential for reasonable graded routes for winter bumblies? Say up to Scottish IV? Or is it all hardcore?
>
> Francois

the Norway link on the AAJ website from the above prob answers your question:

http://alpinebriefs.wordpress.com/

sounds like there is potential for all sorts.
francoisecall - on 02 May 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs: I sent the topos to all the meet participants hence my surprise at Ben's article.

francoisecall - on 02 May 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods: Then you will be very happy on the routes I do (max grade V).
francoisecall - on 02 May 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs: I went ot Rjukan over 10 years ago. There was no guide book, one lousy campsite, no names on routes, no belay...paradise. Now I would not want to go back.
In reply to francoisecall:

Well Rjukan is another place where the locals came to us and asked if would produce a guidebook with their information - so what are we to do - refuse because the place might get too popular?


Chris
francoisecall - on 03 May 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs: I did not know you were the author of the Rjukan guidebook. My comment was not a reproach to you. Just a comment on me not wanting to spoil a fantastic memory of the time I went there. There are loads of places to winter climb to discover in the World.
davidbeynon - on 05 May 2009
In reply to UKC Articles:

I wouldn't worry about it getting too crowded. There is a vast amount of roadside climbing, and you can probably find acres of unclimbed rock just by walking 40 minutes from the road.


Erik B - on 06 May 2009
In reply to francoisecall: theres a lifetime worth of routes to climb up to scottish IV!
In reply to UKC Articles:

For a glimpse of how it used to be (The Goat - 1964), this video is worth five minutes:

http://www.svolvaer-historielag.com/filmklipp.htm

The middle link, it downloads to your pc and is 11.7meg.

Chris
Tuborg on 06 May 2009
In reply to Daniel Armitage:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)

> The popularity of Bohuslan in Sweden has for me, in many ways started to become part of its undoing. Fantastic guide, great climbing, and loads of climbers shiteing in the woods. Now the whole place stinks!

Tad over the top. Its like saying the whole of north wales stinks. Its a huge place and apart from the obvious crags, rarely crowded in my experience.
Daniel Armitage - on 06 May 2009
In reply to Tuborg: Okay... not the whole place... Välseröd...a bit hyperbole maybe! But my point was that increased pressure by climbers excersising allemannsretten can cause problems and I really noticed this in Bohuslän. I hope Lofoten doesnt become less beautiful because of us camping wild, crapping in the woods, leaving bacon wrappers everywhere and generally making a mess.

It is not the guidebook writers responsibility of course, we all need to be responsible in our use of the country side.

Dan.
Tuborg on 06 May 2009
In reply to Daniel Armitage:

Certainly agree with being responsible. I can't stand seeing rubbish left in the woods. I'm off to Lofoten this year and thinking about camping by Gandalf but where/how are you supposed to crap responsibly?
Scomuir on 06 May 2009
In reply to Tuborg:
You can camp round the other side of Vågakallen at Kalle beach which is a really pleasant spot, with climbing nearby and a nice bay for swimming in. The was also a fairly aromatic loo there (2006) for your responsible crap.
In reply to Scomuir: Yep - have always camped at Kalle Beach. A compost loo, bins, and clean water from a tap - and even bouldering on the beach. Also the Ape (a real soft touch for any gritstoners) is 2 minutes away an all the climbs at Paradiset are 10 minutes away.

The Gandalf campsite was covered in crap and toilet paper last time I was there, and that we well before Rockfax came out.

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