/ NEW ARTICLE: Lofoten
"Friendly locals, quiet crags and world class scenery! You will be astounded!"
"Where?" I hear you cry. Lofoten of course!
Guidebook author Chris Craggs flies the flag for this rock-climbing paradise...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1819
> That is until Rockfax came along. ;-)
I think "until Rockfax were asked to help with the guide" might be more accurate.
Nevermind this rock climbing milarky, what's the winter climbing and mountaineering like?
Pretty damn bonza:
is a report from this winter's International Ice Meet. Check out the photo links
do you know if there ia any potential for reasonable graded routes for winter bumblies? Say up to Scottish IV? Or is it all hardcore?
Ta. It's on the list (but it's a very long and growing list!)
Keep the details, there may be a winter guide in the pipeline.
> I think "until Rockfax were asked to help with the guide" might be more accurate.
I'm having a months holiday climbing up north this summer. Lofoten, Kvaløya, Stetind etc... It will be interesting to see what impact the new guide has had on the area.
The popularity of Bohuslan in Sweden has for me, in many ways started to become part of its undoing. Fantastic guide, great climbing, and loads of climbers shiteing in the woods. Now the whole place stinks!
Im not passing any judgement, the guide is gorgeous, well produced and informative. I just hope we as climbers are not going to ruin a very beautiful place by increasing its popularity.
It is a tricky issue to be sure, and I discussed the possible impact with co-author Thorbjørn Enevold whist we were working on the book. Last summer saw markedly more people at the Gandalf camping than previously, so there is certainly potential for problems, especially of sanitation.
Guidebooks (especially good ones) make areas popular, there is no way round that - not producing them because areas might get spoilt would be a bit Draconian though.
> do you know if there ia any potential for reasonable graded routes for winter bumblies? Say up to Scottish IV? Or is it all hardcore?
the Norway link on the AAJ website from the above prob answers your question:
sounds like there is potential for all sorts.
Well Rjukan is another place where the locals came to us and asked if would produce a guidebook with their information - so what are we to do - refuse because the place might get too popular?
I wouldn't worry about it getting too crowded. There is a vast amount of roadside climbing, and you can probably find acres of unclimbed rock just by walking 40 minutes from the road.
Tad over the top. Its like saying the whole of north wales stinks. Its a huge place and apart from the obvious crags, rarely crowded in my experience.
It is not the guidebook writers responsibility of course, we all need to be responsible in our use of the country side.
Certainly agree with being responsible. I can't stand seeing rubbish left in the woods. I'm off to Lofoten this year and thinking about camping by Gandalf but where/how are you supposed to crap responsibly?
You can camp round the other side of Vågakallen at Kalle beach which is a really pleasant spot, with climbing nearby and a nice bay for swimming in. The was also a fairly aromatic loo there (2006) for your responsible crap.
The Gandalf campsite was covered in crap and toilet paper last time I was there, and that we well before Rockfax came out.
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