In reply to rockcat:
I think the bigger issue is illustrated by this comment on your website:
"Some lower-off bolts are already showing signs of wear especially where they are shared by routes.
Please use your own quick draws for lowering off as much as possible (last person threads) to minimise wear. "
This *really* annoys me - I saw some numpty instructor at the Cuttings the other week toproping the easy routes to death. Yes, they are going to get (even more) polished - but there's no need to knacker the lower offs. Despite a very polite request from me, he refused to use krabs in the top bolts. So, guess what, in another year's time the local crew will have to go out and replace the LO's yet again...
...or maybe we won't bother and there's the instructors' resource lost. Your choice...