In reply to Dr Caterpillar: On my trip to Lofoten I can't really remember too many friction slabs and we got through alot of routes.
I'd eer on the side of comfort as you'll be in them for a major chunk of time most days, I think we climbed the priest in about 6 hours so its long enough to get sore feet.
I'd have a look at something like the 5.10 Gambit or similar.
Have a good trip, its a great place providing you get the weather.