/ NEW ARTICLE: VIDEO: James McHaffie on Spider Pants (E6)
He has climbed over thirty E7's in the purest style, with no pre-inspection and with no falls.
In this short film we see James 'retro-flashing' the fiercely technical slate groove of Spider Pants (E6 6b/c).
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1886
Does he really do all his routes in Red Chillis?!
The climbing nerd in me wants to know the names of these thirty E7s he's on-sighted. Actually the climbing nerd in me aslo wants to know all the one's he hasn't as well. Also all the other E7s that have been onsighted in Wales, plus dates, partner's, E6's etc.........
James M was down in Pembroke last year the same long w/e we were there and we ended up at same crags as him a few times. Reading the climbing media, you think that top climbers spend their lives top roping E9s to submission but he proved that wrong. Saw him onsight 5 or 6 routes around E5 standard one after the other without any apparent difficulty, in the same way as me and my mate were doing on our trip (but obviously at a much lower grade!) If anything he was probably more in his comfort zone that we were. He was heading off to Devon/Cornwall the following week, would love to know what he got done. Humble guy too. In pub he said he'd just got back from a trip to Madagasca, done some good routes. Next months Climber had him on cover in Madagasca with 'Hardest Slab in the World' headline!
I remember reading on here ages ago that he onsight soloed Souls in pembroke - anyone know if its true?!
He has climbed over thirty E7's in the purest style, with no pre-inspection and with no falls. Around ten of these are what James might describe in his quiet, understated way as "quite tough".
Yeah come on Jack, the nerds want names!
> Does he really do all his routes in Red Chillis?!
I know, can you imagine what he would be capable of if he climbed in rock shoes?!
I'm a bit ignorant on slate grading. Can someone explain why something with that many bolts on it gets a trad grade?
Unless there are several routes of the same name then:
Spider Pants E6 87m
A fantastic Girdle of the Central wall....
First and third pitches seem to be partly bolted.
There are lots of slate routes with bolts in that get E grades. E grades used to be for both sport and trad routes, as we didn't use F grades in the UK back when bolts came in.
Lots of the slate routes are kind of in between - like this one. It's very safe, the hard sections are protected by bolts. However it's not quite a sport route.
I think it goes like this (from memory - this could be wrong and the heights are approximate)
10m 1st bolt
14m 2nd bolt
20m 3rd Bolt
I've not climbed much on slate, and to outsiders it is an odd ethic having half and half routes. I remember abbing off from the top anchor on one route (Combat Rock I think) and thinking, if they put one bolt in at the top - why not two? (Rather than a team of two trusting just one bolt although I think I backed it up.) So on this route - is there any reason for not bolting it fully beyond the historical one of that is how it was originally done?
> Nice movie.
> I've not climbed much on slate, and to outsiders it is an odd ethic having half and half routes.
Depending on your background and values it isn't an odd ethic.
Many climbs around the word rely on a mixture of fixed and hand-placed gear.
It really isn't that unusual, although some would like to make it so.
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