UKC

anchor advice: slabs

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 supafly 11 Jun 2009
Some advice from the anchor gurus out there please.

So a long multipitch slab, each belay stance protected by two bolts. How would you rig the belay whilst the leader is leading? The two main questions being is there anything you can do about protecting an upward (kind of horizontal as well on a slab) pull and in general at such belays would you belay directly off the harness with a redirect or reverso 3 style directly off an anchor and, if so, would your reverso be ABOVE the anchors to protect against said upward pull.

Hope that makes sense, any help appreciated.
 Max factor 11 Jun 2009
In reply to supafly:

The belay question is discussed at length here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=354599&v=1#x5184072

in short - if alternating leads, as leader I'd attach to the bolts with the climbing rope to make myself safe. Belay the 2nd in autobloc mode directly off a bolt (or better still an equalised anchor if the bolts are connected by a chain), and then belay him leading the next pitch from your harness.

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