/ anyone tried dream holds yet?
Review here - http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2009/06/dream-holds-review.html
I run a commercial wall. I was sent a couple of free samples recently, and must say i was impressed. I will definately be ordering a few sets for my wall.
All of our customers who have looked at/felt the holds have been keen too.
Thanks Mike - good review eh? Obviously not intended to replace the good old smooth blobs but definitely add another dimension to indoor climbing. Has no-one done this before?
Looking forward to giving them a try myself.
>"anyone tried dream holds yet?"
I've climbed a 6b route in the Glasgow Climbing Centre which used them.
They where very painful to use and it seemed likely that anything more than an occasional climb on them would leave your hands in tatters. I was glad to clean the climb second go. I will never climb it again.
If the purpose was to model realistic rock like holds that cause the skin damage which real rock can inflict then they have been very successful.
If the purpose was to make holds for fun routes that are enjoyable to climb on as well as providing a sustainable training medium then the idea is flawed.
There is a problem set at Alien 2 with the holds, adn like JLS I have climbed it once, and will not do so again.
Am more than happy to shred my skin on a problem outside, but I wont be doing it to tick a problem down at the wall.
As for the argument about them being good for "conditioning", by the time you get on the rock you wont have any skin left!
I've used the ones at Ratho (on a 5+ I think) after my flatmates told me they'd put some rock moulded holds on one of the routes. They're pretty good - strange shapes and a very textured feel. I'd like to try them on a route that i'd really struggle on (anything at a 6a - I know i'm gash but you can stop giggling now) just for a wee change from the smooth / greasy / sweaty plastic norm! Word of warning for the clumsy - they'll destroy skin if you scrape yourself whilst being ungracefully belayed down - Owww!
They're beautifully made and and doing a few boulder problems on them is ok but their value for training seemed to be limited by how quickly they would trash your skin, especially slipping off them.
Yeah I agree - don't think they are intended as training holds though - more a taste of the real stuff outdoors. The "sweet spot" much less obvious until you get your fingers onto them I would guess and much more difficult to work a route out from the ground. Would that make the grade a bit higher? Should we be having stuff like 6b+/Flash/Dream now? Great to have something a bit different though, eh?
I've climbed on the gabro-esque holds at Ratho, and wouldn't like to use them very often. They're just too rough for training purposes.
Where do you set about Jay? There are two routes & a boulder problem set at Ratho & overall I think they've been well received :-) A pretty easy Gabbro 5+ on which the friction is err.....gabbro like! The gritstone one is a 7a+ which is yet again really positive to climb on & is totally different to any of the other routes. I think the boulder problem is the sandstone one & was set for the inter services championships held there last week, it really is a joy to climb on! All in all a fantastic addition to any walls repertoire of holds/routes/problems :-)
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