/ anyone tried dream holds yet?

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faceplant - on 16 Jun 2009
some really different holds - exact replicas of real rock. anyone tried them yet? I believw ratho has some up and maybe bristol climbing academy?
prog99 on 16 Jun 2009
NicholasHart - on 16 Jun 2009
In reply to faceplant:

Hi,

I run a commercial wall. I was sent a couple of free samples recently, and must say i was impressed. I will definately be ordering a few sets for my wall.

All of our customers who have looked at/felt the holds have been keen too.

Nick
faceplant - on 16 Jun 2009
In reply to Mike_Watson_99:

Thanks Mike - good review eh? Obviously not intended to replace the good old smooth blobs but definitely add another dimension to indoor climbing. Has no-one done this before?
Looking forward to giving them a try myself.
JLS on 16 Jun 2009
In reply to faceplant:

>"anyone tried dream holds yet?"

I've climbed a 6b route in the Glasgow Climbing Centre which used them.

They where very painful to use and it seemed likely that anything more than an occasional climb on them would leave your hands in tatters. I was glad to clean the climb second go. I will never climb it again.

If the purpose was to model realistic rock like holds that cause the skin damage which real rock can inflict then they have been very successful.

If the purpose was to make holds for fun routes that are enjoyable to climb on as well as providing a sustainable training medium then the idea is flawed.
bagger on 16 Jun 2009
In reply to faceplant:

There is a problem set at Alien 2 with the holds, adn like JLS I have climbed it once, and will not do so again.

Am more than happy to shred my skin on a problem outside, but I wont be doing it to tick a problem down at the wall.

As for the argument about them being good for "conditioning", by the time you get on the rock you wont have any skin left!
Call-Me-Bryce - on 16 Jun 2009
In reply to faceplant:

I've used the ones at Ratho (on a 5+ I think) after my flatmates told me they'd put some rock moulded holds on one of the routes. They're pretty good - strange shapes and a very textured feel. I'd like to try them on a route that i'd really struggle on (anything at a 6a - I know i'm gash but you can stop giggling now) just for a wee change from the smooth / greasy / sweaty plastic norm! Word of warning for the clumsy - they'll destroy skin if you scrape yourself whilst being ungracefully belayed down - Owww!
climbingpixie - on 16 Jun 2009
In reply to faceplant:

They're beautifully made and and doing a few boulder problems on them is ok but their value for training seemed to be limited by how quickly they would trash your skin, especially slipping off them.
faceplant - on 17 Jun 2009
In reply to climbingpixie:
Yeah I agree - don't think they are intended as training holds though - more a taste of the real stuff outdoors. The "sweet spot" much less obvious until you get your fingers onto them I would guess and much more difficult to work a route out from the ground. Would that make the grade a bit higher? Should we be having stuff like 6b+/Flash/Dream now? Great to have something a bit different though, eh?
JonnyCrimper - on 17 Jun 2009
In reply to faceplant: I have done the problem at Alien 2 and really liked them. I can't remember which ones are which but I think it was the green grit ones that were really rough but some of the other ones were really nice and not sore. I have also noticed that they get a lot easier on your fingers once there has been some traffic on them.
lx on 17 Jun 2009
In reply to faceplant: I manage a commercial wall and also had the free samples sent through. They make good paper weights but there is no way I would ever order any of these holds or put them on the wall. The shapes are not that unique, (in my opinion), and the texture is way too rough. I think Core and Bleaustone have done a much better job of creating holds that are less obvious and require more thought in how to use them, and theirs are much more pleasant to use as well.
Fraser on 17 Jun 2009
In reply to faceplant:

I've climbed on the gabro-esque holds at Ratho, and wouldn't like to use them very often. They're just too rough for training purposes.
We were sent some samples of these holds last week and as I left the wall this lunch time, Paul was starting to set a Dream Holds circuit. We're going to be asking for feedback on them and will pass the info onto the guys at Dream. They certainly look interesting, we'll have to wait for an answer to the 'skin' question.
captaincopout on 17 Jun 2009 - host81-152-134-201.range81-152.btcentralplus.com
Bearing in mind that most people's skin gets trashed within 2-3 days of a week or two week trip (or is it just me? :P) maybe these could offer a different type of "training", for the skin? I find the gabbro well rough (funny that) but the sandstone and gneiss are brilliant, subtle to set with and un-obvious. I wouldn't run laps on one problem or route at the crag so maybe there is a middle ground these holds fit into? Funny to see how "gods own rock" (the grit) is so objectionable to indoor climbers.... :D vive le difference!

Jay
Bill Davidson - on 17 Jun 2009
In reply to captaincopout:

Where do you set about Jay? There are two routes & a boulder problem set at Ratho & overall I think they've been well received :-) A pretty easy Gabbro 5+ on which the friction is err.....gabbro like! The gritstone one is a 7a+ which is yet again really positive to climb on & is totally different to any of the other routes. I think the boulder problem is the sandstone one & was set for the inter services championships held there last week, it really is a joy to climb on! All in all a fantastic addition to any walls repertoire of holds/routes/problems :-)

Bill

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