Topic - Pembroke Routes with Fixed Gear - Feedback requested
| by - Alan James - UKC and UKH on - 16 Jun 2009 - www.ukclimbing.com
|Following on from the discussion on this thread - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=359624 - here is a list of routes which are going into the new Rockfax guidebook which rely to some extent on fixed gear, and for which information is currently a little vague.|
For some of these routes the knowledge is good, others they don't appear to see any traffic.
I have personally clipped the pegs on 11 of these routes and always treated them with the respect I have always treated pegs in sea cliffs.
Other assessments of routes in the guidebook are being made from the Rockfax route database, and the UKC Logbook database. I am also in contact with plenty of active climbers and am gathering feedback from them. The routes below are all ones where the information is either completely absent, or a little old.
All feedback gratefully received - the more opinions we get the better.
Bristol Cream - Peg probably not crucial.
Rust - Relies on 3 pegs but there is other gear. I did this in 1998 and it was fine, but probably isnít now and I canít remember how crucial the pegs were.
Hollow Caves Bay
Knock Yourself Out
The Obsession Box
All have pegs. I have little info about repeats of these.
Star Wars Area
Empire Strikes Back
Eat, Drink and Beat Gary
Big in America
I think Big in America gets done but have no info on the gear.
There are lots of pegs in the Leap. Most donít appear to impact on the grades. Many of the West Wall routes have been climbed recently and had their grades re-confirmed.
Night-Seeker - no ascent since pegs gone.
Half Man, Half Beest - no information on repeats of this and it relies on three pegs.
Grey English Morning - I am pretty sure that the peg on this isnít crucial but again, my knowledge is somewhat dated.
I am leaving out the three routes left of Heugamont since they rely almost entirely on fixed gear and see few (no) ascents.
Orange Robe Burning - Peg helpful but not crucial.
Enter the Goat - Peg is back-up-able.
Ships that Pass - Peg helpful but not crucial.
Charisma - Probably E4.
John Wayne - Peg not crucial.
Rising Tide - Pegs not crucial but it was useful. It was an easyish E4, probably a bit higher in the grade now.
You Got Me Into This - No ascent since peg gone. Grade unconfirmed.
Shot by Both Sides - Peg not crucial.
Seaside Salamander - Peg useful but not crucial.
Tie me to the Tyburn Tree - Peg not crucial.
Space Face - none of the pegs are crucial.
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