UKC

Thinking about treating myself to a day's trad coaching (probably in the Peak) and looking for some feedback from anyone who's had any. Only lead S/HS but think I'm capable of a bit more but need a stear on technique and headgames to be able to make the most of my limited time on outdoor rock. Anyone out there of a similar level who's gone down that route - did you get anything out of it? Did it stay with you, or is it just a relatively expensive way to climb for a day, with your performance dropping back to previous levels when the coach wasn't by your side? If anyone prefers to contact me by e-mail rather than posting then that's cool too.

Nick

In reply to scaredy_cat:

Several people seem to find it good;

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=781

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1145

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1619

In reply to scaredy_cat: It's something I'm very tempted by as I can't climb often enough to really improve.

Hi Nick,

Same situation - same grade. S/HS trad 6a/6a+ sport, have booked the performance clinic (sounds tailor made) in 2 weeks time.
http://www.pyb.co.uk/courses/rock-climbing.php

Give me a call and I'll let you know if its any good
Regards, John

In reply to highlanderwolf:


I did a week with planet fear in pembroke. Didn't learn much that I didn't already know but found the mix of having a lot of motivated partners and a bit of a kick in the backside did wonders for my grade.

All it takes is the realisation that you are capable of more than you think you are (and you aren't going to come a cropper if you mess up) to improve your grade on trad.

Was thinking this at the wall last night. How many climbers can't do a v1 crux, which per the rockfax grading table is a hard 5b move? But how many of them "can't" do E1.

In reply to scaredy_cat: Had a day with an instructor for a birthday present and I have to say it was the best thing I could have ever done. I went from leading VD to a S by the end of my climbing holiday.

I can highly recommened Ann Arran, she was friendly and really positive which was great as I'm a bit of a timid climber.

In reply to scaredy_cat: I can recommend Adrian Berry:
- http://www.positiveclimbing.com/

and also Katherine Schirrmacher:
- http://www.lovetoclimb.co.uk/

Cheers

In reply to scaredy_cat: I have done two days with Adrian Berry.You want to get on? Give him a call.I learnt so much the first time I went back with a mate for another go, and he onsighted E2 after just a few hours training where as previously he has leading HVS with dificulty.Better than me.Now we go looking for harder stuff and usualy get it first go.Big big improvement. Do it.

In reply to gjw5670: What sort of grades were you climbing when you first hooked up with Adrian? I'm wondering if I need to be another grade or so further on, say, happy at VS, or can I get something out of it only being a Severe leader (HS on a good day)?

In reply to highlanderwolf: John, yhm

I cant recommend Adrian Berry highly enough, no im not on commission but he does still owe be a tenner!

I went there at the start of the day leading around Severe, we warmed up bouldering, looking at movement on the rock and getting used to the grit. I then led my first VS clean with Adrian giving encouragement and advice when needed as the first climb of the day, Adrian seconded it checking out the gear. I then led Goliths Grove, HVS, then Namenlos, debatable E1!

Through out the day Adrian inspired confidence in my own ability and pushed me hard enough to improve but not so much I felt out of my depth, plus we had a laugh and a chat. All in all a great days cragging.

My advice, drop him an e-mail and do it!

In reply to scaredy_cat: I was steady HVS but pushing E2 on a good day.What he taught me has given me the confidence to jump on most E2`s with the view that I have a better than even chance of getting up it.My latest sucsess story is Via Dexter on Rusty Wall.Chuffed.Wuthering is next.

In reply to gjw5670:

That's got no gear at all really. I'd be wanting to set off with better odds than evens in my mind!
Was 'taking risks with your wellbeing' part of his syllabus?