UKC

Loose rock as Causey Quarry

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 jonny taylor 01 Jul 2009
I know Causey Quarry isn't the best the north east has to offer, but it's fairly popular with the locals. We were down there last night inspecting the block under the roof on Hangover, which definitely looked like it has shifted over the winter. It is extremely loose indeed (estimated weight ~100kg), although it did not immediately fall out with a bit of a shake. We are certainly not going near the route while it's still there.

Particularly given the somewhat fearless approach of the local youth, I'm inclined to think it would be better if the block was removed, but don't want to do this off my own back without a bit of consultation. Is there anyone here with contacts in the local scene?

It may be that it's jammed more tightly than I think, but I would be tempted to give it a bit of a wiggle with a crowbar and see what happens. No idea what the route will be like without the block; probably harder... but less likely to kill someone. Any thoughts?
 brieflyback 01 Jul 2009
In reply to jonny taylor:

If it will come off with a 'wiggle', then trundle the bugger before it gives some poor soul a genuine hangover. We're not exactly talking about a classic feature in a classic route.
In reply to jonny taylor:

It's taken a while to loosen then.

If it's the one I'm thinking of, then it used to creak a little bit back in 1969/70!
OP jonny taylor 01 Jul 2009
In reply to Lord of Starkness:
This is why I've got slight doubts about rushing out there to lever it out - I can't remember exactly how loose it was before, though it's definitely looser now. It's rattling around up there and looks very much like it's been pulled partially out by someone pulling through on it, but it's _possible_ that it's still got enough of a wedge effect on it that it won't fall out the very next time someone pulls on it - we were very much testing it from above rather than below!

I'm still inclined to think it's going to go in the next year or so (but I could be wrong), and given that I've seen kids leading that route in the past, and know that there have been groundfalls from the Mangler and the Mauler in the last year due to gear/rock failure, my feeling is that the course of nature should be hurried along a bit if possible...
In reply to jonny taylor:

It was definitely not loose by any stretch of the imagination all those years ago - but as I said it creaked a bit. It always looked mechanically sound - though sandstone does 'wear' more quickly than most other rock types.

A typical evening workout then consisted of a couple of laps of the low level girdle, Mangler, Hangover and Causey Crack (all TR as that's what most people did then -- it was classed as a 'training crag' after all - then whatever else took our fancy.

To my chagrin I never got round to leading Mangler or Hangover, but managed to lead (or solo) everything below HVS and was on the first (roped) repeat of 'The Haunt' - high level girdle with Ed, a couple of nights after he'd first done it solo.

Great little crag -- that does not 'feel' like a quarry.
OP jonny taylor 01 Jul 2009
In reply to Lord of Starkness:
Yes, it's a good training crag, isn't it? I think most people still toprope most things, though I'm happy leading the Mangler and some of the VS routes for a bit of variety (though I'm doubtful about how reliable cams would be... and I know at least one person has decked due to cam failure).

I assume the filthy black pond of doom was there back in your day as well, ensuring you only get one go at the start to the Mangler before getting filthy shoes?
In reply to jonny taylor:

It was nice and grassy all along the base of the crag way back then. An old bar towel was all that was needed to dry rockboots (or in my case plimsolls). I didn't get my first pair of rock boots until I was leading VS when I considered myself a 'proper' climber.

There was never an evil pool, though you could get a bit soggy in the winter if you came off the low level girdle on the bit below the Mauler.

The top outs were not eroded, and there was even a tree at the top of The Arete.

There were no nice big parking area or constructed pathways.

The track from the road at the bottom of the dip was often impassable to vehicles - deep ruts and mud - though in summer it was possible to get my minivan all the way along to the little bridge over the stream.

Wellies were often the favoured approach footwear - and the low level girdle has actually been done whilst wearing a pair.

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