UKC

Bit of a long shot this, but is the Roaches a little less midge infested than the rest of gritland?
Eastern grit sounds terrible, people being found as skin and bone etc. Is the any chance that the Roaches is a little more friendly? Failing that, are there any other suggestions for places to climb for a climbing starved punter in Worcester?

In reply to fijibaby:
try and pick a crack with exposed rock facing in to the wind, you need the wind to be > 5 mph as they can't fly in that.

In reply to CurlyStevo: I can see it being crack climbing with spotters and a team of towel flappers!

In reply to fijibaby:

Was at Burbage North last night and it was fine, put a bit of DEET on and had a top time.

In reply to fijibaby:

There's a bit of a southerly breeze in The Peak, Roaches should be catching it as well as anywhere on the grit.

In reply to fijibaby:

Peak Limestone venues tend to be a lot less midgy and are far more pleasent to climb on than grit when its sweaty. Staden, Willersley and parts of Dovedale are also shaded and make excellent hot weather venues.

In reply to fijibaby: Last time i was at the roaches (2 weeks ago) i came back with 80+ bites on my arms alone.

In reply to fijibaby: was up the roaches on sunday, and within a couple of hours I had 50 bites just on one leg!!!!! on the flip side though was up there last night and got one, although that could be something to do with dotting citronella oil on my arms and legs.

cheap stuff too, 79p for a little bottle, it works for me, try it dude.

In reply to fijibaby:

I went to the roaches last week and got loads of bites but for some reason they waited until yesterday to flare up and now I have loads of huge itchy bumps all over.

In reply to kitemadgoth: 79p is worth paying if it means a day out on grit!
Does it stop 'em landing on you?

In reply to fijibaby: Got absolutely mauled on Sunday morning. Still loads of red blotches all over my arms and legs. Head for the limestone I reckon.

In reply to Ben Callard:

I find that once I've had DEET on my hands all hopes of getting up anything slabby vanish, no matter how much chalk I use!

In reply to Dave Garnett: This is not looking good!
I'm just going to have to man it out. And find a trade supplier of anti-histamine.

In reply to fijibaby:

Went to Windgather at the weekend and got chewed. Bought some Jungle Formula 'for sensitive skin' (explains years of grit rash then) and went to the Roaches last night, didn't feel particularly slippery and didn't get eaten. There were clouds of midges though.

In reply to Dark Peak Paul: Interesting, I was at Windgather on Sunday and found it much easier than the eastern grit for the winged demons. Mind, I thought I was going to find myself on the highest point with a variety of ironmongery strapped to me as the thunderstorm moved in, but it obligingly trundled down the other side of the valley

In reply to fijibaby: Was at the Roaches last night (Thursday) climbing on Lower and Upeer till gone 10, hardly any midges at all.

Phil

In reply to Ben Callard:

Just remember that DEET dissolves soft climbing gear!

In reply to fijibaby: i spent a day at stanage and have over 300 midgey bites on my legs and arms. definately learnt a lesson. use deet or be prepared to scratch off you skin!

In reply to fijibaby:
Go for the limestone, in Worcester you're not far from the Wye Valley, it's quality - Wintour's Leap, Shorn Cliff, Wynd Cliff, Ban-y-Gor, closest is Symond's Yat but less good. Or go up to Clwyd just outside Llangollen. Llanymynech Quarry might be worth checking out as well.

In reply to fijibaby: Got to add to general theme here - why would you want to climb grit when it's completely out of condition?

I quite like the way the sweat and midges happen at the same time of year - both make climbing grit intolerable, so you gotta look elsewhere. Moorland grit can be good in the hot summer (still a fair midge risk, check the wind direction) but lime's where it's at for me. Kind of crap compared to grit, but still beautiful places, with exciting, very strenuous, long, exposed and fun climbs. Would recommend going to Dove Dale instead of The Roaches, it's just round the corner, and it's in condition.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

The grit was in great nick for doing trad routes yesterday, lovely temperatures. Britain's weather is too variable to say something as simplistic as 'grit is completely out of condition' in summer.

In reply to Adam L:

You're right there. Out of condition for medium/hard bouldering perhaps but not in any wider sense

In reply to Adam L:

Unless you are Fiend