UKC

NEWS: Johnny Dawes - E6 Onsight First Ascent

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 UKC News 14 Jul 2009
[Johnny Dawes on his new E6 route on Scimitar Ridge, 3 kb]Johnny is back!

Johnny Dawes, the original Stone Monkey, has climbed a new route, onsight, on Scimitar Ridge in the Llanberis Pass.

"His belayer refused to second the hard traverse pitch!"

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=48356

 Jeff25 14 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Brilliant! Glad to see hes still out enjoying climbing.

Onsight as well. Impressed.
 Nic 14 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Yeah, but what's he done on grit...oh, er...hang on...
 Wft 14 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News: still got it. . . .
 Fidget 14 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Nice one Johnny We bumped into him in the pub at Pembroke a month or two ago, he had socks on (no shoes) as he'd been rollerblading to the crags. Still a legend
 Stefan Kruger 14 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Excellent to see Johnny back where he belongs.
 moo cow 14 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:
Look forward to seeing the legend at work on these dvd's. he has still got it!
 craig d 14 Jul 2009
In reply to moo cow:

His belayer refused to second the hard traverse pitch!

come on, name and shame.
 Gambit 14 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News: Best news I've heard in ages, put a real smile on my face. Good to see him back and always good value on film.
 pigeonjim 14 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:
Love this quote

"It will be interesting to see how Johnny fares in comparison to Segal, who has climbed F8c on trad (Cobra Crack) and is at the peak of his climbing career."


Jonny just onsighted a new E6 and he is no where near his peak!!!!!
Great effort and show just how talented he is.
 aide 14 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News: also looking forward to his auto biography later this year!
 Ben Gilbert 14 Jul 2009
yes yes yes yes yes yes! Johnny Dawes is back and still has it. One of the 2 biggest legends in british climbing
 Jack Geldard 14 Jul 2009
In reply to pigeonjim:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> Love this quote
>
> "It will be interesting to see how Johnny fares in comparison to Segal, who has climbed F8c on trad (Cobra Crack) and is at the peak of his climbing career."
>
>
> Jonny just onsighted a new E6 and he is no where near his peak!!!!!
> Great effort and show just how talented he is.

Yes, if you were looking up at a damp, unprotected, offwidth/groove squirm-fest, or a balancy, gearless arete, and had to choose from your rack of climbing partners (that would be cool!), then would be the time to pick Johnny!

I have no idea who got up Gin Palace (or not) but I suspect that JD did ok...

Jack
 TonyG 14 Jul 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Jack, is there any possibility of UKC getting another video interview with Johnny at any point? The last one (talking about Indian Face in the pub) was absolutely priceless, definitely the best thing I've ever seen on UKC (and yes, there's plenty to choose from there...). I know it's probably not as simple as just asking him, but I reckon most of us on here would love to hear Johnny talking about climbing in any shape or form...

Tony
 irish paul 14 Jul 2009
In reply to TonyG: Or dragons, he speaks very eloquently on dragons....
 Jack Geldard 14 Jul 2009
In reply to TonyG: Hi Tony,

I will see what I can do. Leave it with me.

Cheers,

Jack
 Big Steve 14 Jul 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: is there a link to the first video interview?
 Jack Geldard 14 Jul 2009
In reply to Big Steve: Your wish is my command:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1481

Cheers!
 long 14 Jul 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: I saw JD and Hazel on Gin Palace when I was doing the Dervish. It was over Easter time. The American, Segal (?), had already been on it and Crispin was there too but don't think he had a burn. I could say how they got on but wouldn't want to spoil the dvd!

Good to hear he's still doing stuff, he's such a funny guy. Shouted at us from all the way across the quarry that they lock the gates to the car park at 7.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: You must catch up with him regularly, can you not blag another interview?
 Jack Geldard 14 Jul 2009
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat: Come now Grumpy, UKC are a serious outfit, we do not 'blag'... <ahem>

I will endeavour to arrange a High Definition, professionally filmed interview, in an authentic, relevant setting (ie. the pub in Llanberis) with elite level athlete Johnny Dawes.

Failing that I'll point my digicam at Johnny whilst he's drinking a pint and see what happens.

But no promises!

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Cool matey! Get well soon on the digit front too.
Clauso 14 Jul 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I'd be interested in hearing his thoughts on owls.
 Nic 14 Jul 2009
In reply to Clauso:

> I'd be interested in hearing his thoughts on owls.

Be careful of what you wish for!
 Silum 14 Jul 2009
In reply to TonyG:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> Jack, is there any possibility of UKC getting another video interview with Johnny at any point? The last one (talking about Indian Face in the pub) was absolutely priceless, definitely the best thing I've ever seen on UKC (and yes, there's plenty to choose from there...). I know it's probably not as simple as just asking him, but I reckon most of us on here would love to hear Johnny talking about climbing in any shape or form...
>
> Tony

Definately agree, would love to see another

margie 14 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:

YES Johnny!What an absolute legend!!!!
 Andy S 14 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News: Great to see him up to his old tricks!

I'm really looking forward to watching the vid. It's always a joy to watch his unique kind of movement. Dynamic and natural.
 peteJ23 14 Jul 2009
Come on Johnster!
 Jus 15 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:

You always said you would be back, we're just weren't sure when.

Awesome, Johnny. You made my day.
 DavidR 15 Jul 2009
In reply to Jus:

Totally agree - great, great news, and has made my day too!
 Jack Geldard 15 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News: Just to reply to everyone asking for more Johnny interview footage, well it seems we might be able to sort that out for August, there is more footage from that original interview.

Jack
 Chris F 15 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News: He's a big boy now. If he "does a dunne" and sheds a stone or two I reckon he will ignite again. Wizzard Ridge is still there, and doesn't he have an unclimbed slate project somewhere?
 Jus 15 Jul 2009
In reply to Chris F:

I recall a conversation not too long ago when he said he was still on the cards!
 James Oswald 16 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:
Awesome.
Like several have mentioned in this thread it would be great to see another interview with Dawes.
James
 Nigel R 16 Jul 2009
In reply to aide:
> (In reply to UKC News) also looking forward to his auto biography later this year!

I foresee a fifteen-chapter stream of consciousness that once you've read it you won't have a clue what he's been on about, but you'll be glad you did!
 BrianT 17 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:
I should have said, it's ace to see Johnny onsighting hard new routes again. Go Johnny!

Further to my previous post, Jude's interviews with Dunne and Redhead are here, also from 2001. They provide some interesting counterpoints to Dawes views.

John Dunne...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=3232
and...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=3236

John Redhead...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=19456
and...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=19799
 BrianT 17 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC News:
Previous post got deleted. Must be summat I said.
Anyway, for those interested in Mr Dawes here is Jude Calvert-Toulmin's online interview with him from 2001 on this very forum.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=2488f

I'll say nowt else.
 Rob Cole 21 Jul 2009
In reply to craig d:
> (In reply to moo cow)
>
> His belayer refused to second the hard traverse pitch!
>
> come on, name and shame.

I'm sure I recognise the belayer from the photo...
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