In reply to Only a hill: I wonder whether the guide books have a role to play in this? I would suspect (hope?) that not that many people would head off along the Aonach Eagach without having done some research on to what they might expect to find. I have six guide books which cover the Aonach Eagach and while most of them make it fairly clear that there is no escape from the ridge between Am Bodach and Stob Coire Leith, there seems to be a fair bit of variation in the advice about descent once you have reached Sgorr nam Fiannnaidh - if not in factual terms, then at least in tone and emphasis.
The 1999 edition of the SMC Munros book, for the descent at the west end of the ridge it says:
The most direct descent from this peak to Glen Coe is due south down a continuously steep slope of boulders and stones near the top, and grass lower down. Care is needed not to dislodge stones which might roll a long way down to the hazard of anyone below, but otherwise the route is not difficult. In winter it and the whole traverse of the Aonach Eagach is very different; a serious mountaineering expedition that may be difficult and time-consuming.
For those who seek a less continuously steep descent, the best alternative is to go 3/4km west from Sgorr nam Fiannaidh, then 1km north-north-west down to the col below the Pap of Glencoe. From there descend south-west by a path to the road between Glencoe village and Clachaig Hotel. Do not descend south from this col as that leads down across the grazing land above Leacantuim farm, which should be avoided.
There is an obvious path on the west side of Clachaig Gully immediately north of Clachaig Hotel, but it should be avoided as a route of descent or ascent as it is badly eroded with a lot of loose stones and rock which, if dislodged, can be hazard to climbers in the gully. This route is not recommended.
About the above advice I would observe that:
1) The specific recommendation
against using the Clachaig Gully path is left until last;
2) The justification for that recommendation seems to be based on the possible risk to
others, not to the descending party;
3) The description of the descent directly south in to Glen Coe looks to me as if it could be confused with the Clachaig Gully descent, if the whole passage were not read and followed sufficiently carefully - especially so if the Clachaig Gully path is supposedly so obvious;
4) At no point is there any mention of the fact that there is no escape route off the ridge. That seems a bit odd for a book which is by definition targeted at walkers rather than climbers, which latter might be expected to be better able to recognise and avoid dangerous ground.
Conversely, the current edition of the SMC Glen Coe guide book for climbers
does state that there are no safe descent routes between Am Bodach and Stob Coire Leith. It says that the descent via the col below the Pap is "by far the safest", and also says:
Although the lure of a well earned drink in the Clachaig Inn may be particularly tempting, a descent by the west bank of Clachaig Gully is not recommended as it requires careful map work or prior knowledge if it is to be identified from above. [which statement seems to be at odds with the "obvious path" mentioned in the Munros book.]
Furthermore the path is loose, steep and badly eroded and there is a danger of dislodging stones onto climbers in the gully. Again, the emphasis seems to be on risk to others rather than risk to oneself.
Andrew Dempster's "Classic Mountain Scrambles in Scotland" book states:
Those making a direct descent to the Clachaig Hotel should continue on past [the summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh] and veer off to the left as if heading out on to a prominent shoulder. Just beyond this shoulder the enormous cleft of the Clachaig Gully drops 915m to the glen. Pass the lip of this gully and pick up a scree path which leads steeply down the shoulder on the far side of the gully. Note that this descent is very loose, steep and brutally unrelenting. Tiredness at the end of a day combined with such a descent can be lethal. Alternatively, descend due south from the Summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh into a scree hollow, followed by steep grass. This leads directly to Loch Achtriochtan. At least there is a warning of the difficulty of the Clachaig Gully descent, but it does nonetheless recommend that route, and there's no mention of the much easier route via the col below the Pap.
Ralph Storer's "100 Best Routes on Scottish Mountains" says:
Unfortunately, there are no pleasant ways back down to the glen from the summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh. Unless continuing to the Pap of Glencoe, the safest way is to continue westwards along the ridge for a short distance, then descend south-eastwards into a small corrie and continue down steep, rough quartzite slopes to reach the roadside near Loch Achtriochtan. ... NB: a direct descent to the Clachaig Inn, using the steep, loose path beside Clachaig Gully, is not recommended. So at least the Clachaig Gully descent is advised against, but again there's no recommendation in favour of the easy way down.
Cameron McNeish's popular (perhaps because no-one ever seems to sell it at the supposed recommended retail price) Munros book says:
Descend due south [of the summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh] picking your way with care through some rocky outcrops and down for a well-earned pint in the Clachaig Inn. From the bearing given, that sounds like the direct descent to Loch Achtriochtan; however, the reference to the Clachaig Inn suggests that he might be referring to the Clachaig Gully path. His next paragraph would seem to support that:
The path, on the west side of the Clachaig Gully has a lot of loose stones and rock on it and there is a danger of knocking scree into the gully, putting other climbers at risk. There is also the danger of actually falling in to the gully; there have been several fatalities at this point in recent years. Again, a clear enough warning, but no mention of other routes, and there seems to be some confusion in the text between the slightly safer route down to Loch Achtriochtan and the Clachaig Gully route. I wonder whether the comma after "The path" is misleading; without it you would tend to read the second paragraph as being about a
different path. With the comma there, it looks as if he's talking about the same path as in the preceding paragraph - which might indeed have been his intention, although the Clachaig Gully path does
not go due south from the summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh.
The safest advice seems to be this from Dan Bailey's recent "Scotland's Mountain Ridges":
From Am Bodach westwards there is NO safe way down into Glen Coe for several kilometres. If you're caught on the pinnacles at nightfall, keep going. This can't be over-emphasised. The direct descent S from Sgorr nam Fiannaidh and the eroded 'path' on the W bank of Clachaig Gully have both been recommended by guidebooks over the years, but both are potentially dangerous, particularly in poor visibility. Research for this book has imprinted this fact indelibly on my mind. He then goes on to give an accurate and concise description of the descent via the col below the Pap. I can't help wondering, though, what particular experience he had which so impressed him against using the other two routes...