/ NEW ARTICLE: Photo Feature: New Gear at OutDoor 2009
The pair braved lashing rain, extreme fatigue, lack of sleep and even bad coffee to bring this up to the minute report to your screens.
Get a sneak preview of the future of climbing and mountaineering kit and clothing here.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1987
I'm guessing the Camalot twin axle patent has run out, looking at those DMM cams.
Grivel's take on the Darts look good as well, though i'm not sure about the vertical rail. It'd be dangerous to stand on rocks balancing on that.
> I'm guessing the Camalot twin axle patent has run out, looking at those DMM cams.
Yes, a while ago, 2 years ago I believe.
Which makes it all the more odd that a friend of mine overheard BD staff on the DMM stand threatening to sue. I am really hoping that he is wrong or misunderstood because it would be pretty lame else. It seems to me that DMM have taken the twin axle idea and built it into a much more attractive unit. BD should see that as a kick in the pants and try to raise their game to match.
wonder if they will cost Camalot ££, or rather $$$. Or be reasonable as other DMM cams have been.
Might hold off buying those new cams for a bit longer now.
From what I saw it will be worth waiting if you can.
In what way? Lighter, prettier, more functional? Agreed they look nice, but I've never found my Camalots unattractive...
We are doing a video interview with Fred Hall at DMM. He maybe able to explain!
The cam lobes look a bit like they have been fashioned out of the drum of a washing machine. sort of.
> In what way? Lighter, prettier, more functional? Agreed they look nice, but I've never found my Camalots unattractive...
Jack did also say this in the article: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1987
"For those who haven't seen the Dragon Cams, they are a twin axle design, very similar in style to the classic Black Diamond (BD) Camalots, but with the added extras that we have come to expect from DMM; weight saving from some very stylishly hot-forged cam lobes and the popular doubled sling. DMM have also kept their camming angle of 13.75° which DMM believe "offers the best combination of holding power and expansion range". With the BD patent expired on the twin axle design, it will be interesting to see if any other manufacturers will produce twin axle cams too."
But as I said earlier: we are interviewing (video) Fred Hall, DMM design guru about these new cams.
He will spill the beans.
Yep, I know all that, but also remember reading this (from http://www.alpineexposures.com/pages/black-diamond-c4-camalot-review ):
'What’s so interesting about this design is that for years cam manufacturers had been obsessing over the cam angle and whether there was a ‘magic’ cam angle. This system rather knocks this whole obsession out of the window by allowing them to increase the range by making use of another variable- the dual axle system. For those interested in the cam angle though this is what BD had to say: The cam angle we use is in the middle of what we have measured on our competitors cams (as low as 12.5 degrees and as high as 21 degrees). Camalots are at 14.5 degrees. There is no single magic number for cam angle; the proof the long-term use. Camalots have been on the market for over 20 years and are holding falls in all kinds of rock all over the world. I think the cam angle argument is officially dead.'
So I'm not knocking the Dragons (I might well be going for them if I was starting afresh), but there's something about IainWhitehouse's post that seems to imply that Camalots are actively unattractive! ;-)
Not at all. I said that the Dragons are more attractive. Camalots are as they have always been. Attractive was perhaps a misleading term but i was trying to avoid using the word 'better', since i appreciate gear choice is subjective.
As to why they are more attrative: They will be lighter, have stronger cam springs, a smaller camming angle and an extendable sling. All of which are improvements in my view. They are also likely to come to market cheaper, at least in the UK.
Also, you showed the two new jackets from patagonia, what are their specs BTW?
The M10 jacket from Patagonia is a lightweight (330grams ish) 3 layer hardshell in a stretch outer fabric and uses Patagonia's own H2N0 storm membrane. It is a shorter cut being aimed at climbers and mountaineers.
The Guide Jacket is a Softshell piece, not lined and no hood, but great as a general outer layer when conditions aren't too bad.
I'll get a definite date on the Fusions from BD and get back to yo on that one.
Hope that helps
Just waiting for an exact date and a press release from BD Europe and I'll get the info on this forum thread asap.
These are expected for a spring 2010 launch, (possibly earlier.) RRPs were around the £6 mark per biner and £13 to £15 per quickdraw.
Is the Freinio a new UK release or a redesign? Looks exactly the same as the one I picked up on a rainy day in Chamonix a couple of years ago.
Yes this has been around for a couple of years.
Not that well known amongst UK climbers though. Last time I spoke to the guys from Petzl in the UK they were quite keen to give it more exposure.
Basically aimed at increasing the friction when lowering on devices such as Gri-Gri combined with skinny ropes.
A Gri-Gri for thinner ropes? No concrete plan as yet.
Alternative uses are attaching the prussik cord while abseiling, hang gloves/camera/rucksack while belaying and rigging a pulley system (without pulleys...)
> Kevin Avery
> Bear Editor
you edit bears too? wow.
Not sure if Petzl had one for canyoning, but you are right as the origins of the concept. Plenty of extra-friction weird designs out there for the purpose.
Nice write up guys.
The Fusion Axes are available from December 2009.
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