/ NEW ARTICLE: Photo Feature: New Gear at OutDoor 2009

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UKC Articles - on 28 Jul 2009
[Kevin Avery and Alan James at OutDoor - tent testing as well!, 3 kb]UKC Chief Editor Jack Geldard and Gear Editor Kevin Avery take us through some snap shots of the new gear on show at the huge tradeshow in Germany - OutDoor.

The pair braved lashing rain, extreme fatigue, lack of sleep and even bad coffee to bring this up to the minute report to your screens.

Get a sneak preview of the future of climbing and mountaineering kit and clothing here.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1987

Sam L - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC Articles: Good report guys, nice to see some pics of things to come. Not sure the new crux sack looks better than the old version though - I think I prefer mine!
GrahamD - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC Articles:

I'm guessing the Camalot twin axle patent has run out, looking at those DMM cams.
Mr Lopez - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC Articles: Some very sexy gear! The new fusions look awesome! They are Nomics with a better handle, a spike and something that looks it can be used to 'hammer stuff'. Anyone wants to buy a pair of Nomics...?
Grivel's take on the Darts look good as well, though i'm not sure about the vertical rail. It'd be dangerous to stand on rocks balancing on that.
Michael Ryan - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> I'm guessing the Camalot twin axle patent has run out, looking at those DMM cams.

Yes, a while ago, 2 years ago I believe.

Mick

CragX Shop - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC Articles: Nice round-up on the whole (although I'm not sure why you flagged up the Freino as it has been on sale in the UK for at least two years).

There's a bit more detail on the 5.10 team on the Foundry blog: http://foundryclimbing.blogspot.com/
IainWhitehouse - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to GrahamD)

> Yes, a while ago, 2 years ago I believe.

Which makes it all the more odd that a friend of mine overheard BD staff on the DMM stand threatening to sue. I am really hoping that he is wrong or misunderstood because it would be pretty lame else. It seems to me that DMM have taken the twin axle idea and built it into a much more attractive unit. BD should see that as a kick in the pants and try to raise their game to match.
Iain
Max factor - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to IainWhitehouse:

wonder if they will cost Camalot ££, or rather $$$. Or be reasonable as other DMM cams have been.

Might hold off buying those new cams for a bit longer now.
IainWhitehouse - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to Max_01: I don't have the pricelist to hand but from memory Dragons will be just a fraction cheaper than camalots -somewhere around £50 for the key sizes.
From what I saw it will be worth waiting if you can.
Iain
petestack - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to IainWhitehouse:
> It seems to me that DMM have taken the twin axle idea and built it into a much more attractive unit.

In what way? Lighter, prettier, more functional? Agreed they look nice, but I've never found my Camalots unattractive...

Michael Ryan - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to petestack:

We are doing a video interview with Fred Hall at DMM. He maybe able to explain!

Mick Ryan
Senior Editor
UKClimbing.com
Max factor - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to petestack:

The cam lobes look a bit like they have been fashioned out of the drum of a washing machine. sort of.
Michael Ryan - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to petestack:
> (In reply to IainWhitehouse)
> [...]
>
> In what way? Lighter, prettier, more functional? Agreed they look nice, but I've never found my Camalots unattractive...

Jack did also say this in the article: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1987

"For those who haven't seen the Dragon Cams, they are a twin axle design, very similar in style to the classic Black Diamond (BD) Camalots, but with the added extras that we have come to expect from DMM; weight saving from some very stylishly hot-forged cam lobes and the popular doubled sling. DMM have also kept their camming angle of 13.75° which DMM believe "offers the best combination of holding power and expansion range". With the BD patent expired on the twin axle design, it will be interesting to see if any other manufacturers will produce twin axle cams too."

But as I said earlier: we are interviewing (video) Fred Hall, DMM design guru about these new cams.

He will spill the beans.

Mick Ryan
Senior Editor
UKClimbing.com

petestack - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Yep, I know all that, but also remember reading this (from http://www.alpineexposures.com/pages/black-diamond-c4-camalot-review ):
'What’s so interesting about this design is that for years cam manufacturers had been obsessing over the cam angle and whether there was a ‘magic’ cam angle. This system rather knocks this whole obsession out of the window by allowing them to increase the range by making use of another variable- the dual axle system. For those interested in the cam angle though this is what BD had to say: The cam angle we use is in the middle of what we have measured on our competitors cams (as low as 12.5 degrees and as high as 21 degrees). Camalots are at 14.5 degrees. There is no single magic number for cam angle; the proof the long-term use. Camalots have been on the market for over 20 years and are holding falls in all kinds of rock all over the world. I think the cam angle argument is officially dead.'

So I'm not knocking the Dragons (I might well be going for them if I was starting afresh), but there's something about IainWhitehouse's post that seems to imply that Camalots are actively unattractive! ;-)
IainWhitehouse - on 28 Jul 2009
In reply to petestack:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
but there's something about IainWhitehouse's post that seems to imply that Camalots are actively unattractive! ;-)

Not at all. I said that the Dragons are more attractive. Camalots are as they have always been. Attractive was perhaps a misleading term but i was trying to avoid using the word 'better', since i appreciate gear choice is subjective.
As to why they are more attrative: They will be lighter, have stronger cam springs, a smaller camming angle and an extendable sling. All of which are improvements in my view. They are also likely to come to market cheaper, at least in the UK.

Iain
robpatterson5 - on 29 Jul 2009
Any idea on dates for the new Fusions? Or more pics?

Also, you showed the two new jackets from patagonia, what are their specs BTW?
Kevin Avery - UKC - on 29 Jul 2009
In reply to robpatterson5:

Hi Rob

The M10 jacket from Patagonia is a lightweight (330grams ish) 3 layer hardshell in a stretch outer fabric and uses Patagonia's own H2N0 storm membrane. It is a shorter cut being aimed at climbers and mountaineers.

The Guide Jacket is a Softshell piece, not lined and no hood, but great as a general outer layer when conditions aren't too bad.

I'll get a definite date on the Fusions from BD and get back to yo on that one.

Hope that helps

Kevin Avery
Gear Editor
UKClimbing.com
robpatterson5 - on 30 Jul 2009
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC: Thanks Kevin, did they do anything with the Reactor BTW?
andymoin - on 30 Jul 2009
In reply to robpatterson5: Hmm new fusions could be tempted, no were seams to have any info on them tho...
5cifi - BAD SELLER - on 30 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC Articles: Them Grivel karbs and QD look good. I need to repace mine soon. When are these expected to be in the UK and at what prices ? Cheers Jake
ads.ukclimbing.com
Kevin Avery - UKC - on 30 Jul 2009
In reply to andymoin:

Hi

Just waiting for an exact date and a press release from BD Europe and I'll get the info on this forum thread asap.

Thanks

Kevin Avery
Bear Editor
UKClimbing.com
Kevin Avery - UKC - on 30 Jul 2009
In reply to 5cifi:

Hi

These are expected for a spring 2010 launch, (possibly earlier.) RRPs were around the £6 mark per biner and £13 to £15 per quickdraw.

Cheers

Kevin Avery
Gear Editor
UKClimbing.com
mkean - on 30 Jul 2009
In reply to UKC Articles:
Is the Freinio a new UK release or a redesign? Looks exactly the same as the one I picked up on a rainy day in Chamonix a couple of years ago.
Mr Lopez - on 30 Jul 2009
In reply to mkean: Been around for a couple of years in the UK.
Kevin Avery - UKC - on 31 Jul 2009
In reply to Mr Lopez:

Yes this has been around for a couple of years.

Not that well known amongst UK climbers though. Last time I spoke to the guys from Petzl in the UK they were quite keen to give it more exposure.

Basically aimed at increasing the friction when lowering on devices such as Gri-Gri combined with skinny ropes.

A Gri-Gri for thinner ropes? No concrete plan as yet.

Kevin Avery
Gear Editor
UKClimbing.com
Mr Lopez - on 31 Jul 2009
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC:

> Basically aimed at increasing the friction when lowering on devices such as Gri-Gri combined with skinny ropes.

Alternative uses are attaching the prussik cord while abseiling, hang gloves/camera/rucksack while belaying and rigging a pulley system (without pulleys...)
In reply to Mr Lopez: I've seen them in the catalogue for a number of years but weren't they originally designed for canyoning? I remember thinking they looked weird and couldn't quite see what they were meant to do.
Appleseed - on 31 Jul 2009
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC:
> (In reply to andymoin)
>
> >
> Kevin Avery
> Bear Editor
> UKClimbing.com

you edit bears too? wow.
Mr Lopez - on 31 Jul 2009
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Mr Lopez) I've seen them in the catalogue for a number of years but weren't they originally designed for canyoning? I remember thinking they looked weird and couldn't quite see what they were meant to do.

Not sure if Petzl had one for canyoning, but you are right as the origins of the concept. Plenty of extra-friction weird designs out there for the purpose.

Col Savage on 03 Aug 2009 - 210.48.199.236 whois?
In reply to UKC Articles: I particularly like the sound of the Scrotum Tent - a much needed additon to any outdoor types armoury. Does it come with a midge net?
Greg Chapman - on 03 Aug 2009
In reply to UKC:

Nice write up guys.
Tom_Harding - on 03 Aug 2009
Are the Scarpa phanton guides the replacment to the old phoantom lite's, i brought a pair of the lites a few months ago and love them.
joe.91 - on 06 Aug 2009
In reply to Kevin Avery - UKC: anymore info on the Fusion ice axes then?
5cifi - BAD SELLER - on 06 Aug 2009
In reply to gt4_joe: Same hydroformed, (read stiff) shaft system as the Viper but with a different curve, also a different head locking system to the other BD tools but they still fit all the BD picks, a very small hammer head if really needed. Removable spike and a really good handle and grip system, Much much better than the old Fusions.
Mr Lopez - on 06 Aug 2009
In reply to 5cifi: Now it just needs decent picks...
Kevin Avery - UKC - on 11 Aug 2009
In reply to gt4_joe:

The Fusion Axes are available from December 2009.

Cheers

Kevin Avery
Gear Editor
UKClimbing.com
beh on 11 Aug 2009
In reply to UKC Articles: The berghaus hoody looks reasonable, especially given the poor availability of the r1. Anyone an idea of the srp?

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