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 Topic - Baildon wooden wedges - one more thing
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 by - wahniel  on - 11 Aug 2009 |
I originally posted about this(see post:FYI :Baildon sandbag defused with wooden wedges) because I felt the route in question was not graded quite right and was hoping to hear if others (climbers operating at low to mid grade) agreed, or if it's just me.
That thread was taken off on a tangent so other than Dave's comments I haven't heard much. Some of the comments made in Mick Ward's,Mick Ryan's and Dave Musgrove's replies I found a little patronising, so I'd like to set a few things straight. It's been suggested that :
- I am inexperienced, new to the game. Well I'm not, I have been climbing for nigh on 20 years and have climbed all over Britain and Europe, often a lot more taxing than dicking around at Baildon.
- I don't know how to place a wooden wedge. Thanks for your concern Mick. They were very solid, quite hard to remove. If you can use a large Hex properly you'll manage with wood as well.
- I can't afford cams. I own many, however none of the franlky ridiculous size needed for the bottom of this. In 10 years of climbing in Britain, I have never needed one of those wagon wheel jobs. If you could "lace it with cams", Dave, then I would have done just that.
- I need educating. Well, not on this point. It was never my intention to turn Leeway into an ugly aid eyesore. I left the wedges for someone else to have a go and tell me what they thought about this clearly seldom done line and its grade. They were there for protection, not aid. They are now in a neat pile at the bottom of the route, if anyone fancies a go.
- I am being disrespectful towards Iain Edwards. By doing what, Mick ? Climbing his route? With old fashioned protection ? I think he would like that.
The whole thing taught me that :
a) if you use a wooden wedge, take it back out (thanks for the point about the swelling Dave, I had not thought about that)
b) keep quiet about it.
Finally, Dave, I have lot of respect for your work in the area, give or take a few bolts, doesn't matter to me. And the last grit guide is still the best guide book I own (despite disagreeing with the odd grade now and again), I wish there were more like it.
cheers, Dan |
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