/ NEWS: Japanese Junior Hits The Grit
In the first few days of his summer cragging trip, the young Japanese climber visited Stanage and managed an onsight ascent of The Storm (V9), a fast repeat of Deliverance (V8+) and then moved on to the Victorian Overmantel (V9), dispatching the hideous move on his third try in the full summer sun.
Routes that have had the Toru treatment so far include the Burbage test-pieces Simba's Pride (E8), which he rapidly headpointed, Life Assurance (E6) climbed on sight, and he has moved on to top roping Parthian Shot and Dynamics of Change (both E9)...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=48849
Isn't this him getting the 4th ascent of Elm Street?
"I want to climb Gritstone. It is my dream."
Stunning effort. Glad he's enjoying himself.
what a dude!
How do you "headpoint" Simbas Pride? As far as I remember the only option is to solo it or is there some new method of protecting the route?
> How do you "headpoint" Simbas Pride? As far as I remember the only option is to solo it or is there some new method of protecting the route?
As i understand it Headpointing is just redpointing on trad so not necessarily a need for a rope or gear...
Serious effort.....fcukin' nice one!
If the route is a solo then it gets soloed. Either onsight, or (more commonly with E8's) it is pre-practised and then soloed (i.e. headpointed).
Lot's of E8's are solo's, off the top of my head:
Elm Street (which he soloed after practice)
Simba's Pride (apparently, although I don't personaly know that this is a solo)
And numerous others...
So whenever one of these routes get repeated then an E8 gets soloed, probably happens quite often, as for fifteen year olds doing it I have no idea...
> Elm Street (which he soloed after practice)
> Angels Share
> Simba's Pride (apparently, although I don't personaly know that this is a solo)
> And numerous others...
you're forgetting one of the ones you've done - Obsession fatale! or is there gear on this now !?!
You can place gear low donw, it's a bit pointless but is gear. I think most people just solo it but the gear is there if you've got Mr Bolt as belayer...
P.S. Mighty fine effort by the young chap in question, very impressive.
Well... that is simply because it has to be posted at least once... and since you guys keep deleting them, well every smart arse will think he'll be the 1st one to psot something (not so) clever....
...but what's he done at Stoney ....
"I want to climb Peak Limestone. It is my dream."
Now that would be cool.
Having said that, it doesn't seem to have caused him any problems...
> Having said that, it doesn't seem to have caused him any problems...
Imagine if he came back in the winter...
School holidays perhaps?
... and whoever nicked his bouldering mat from Stanage - shame on you! Give it back.
Bloody appalling. what kind of asshole would do that?
anyway amazing effort by this kid, obviously someone has neglected to tell him the grit season doesn't start for another 3 months!
on a separate note, how many other E8's have been climbed during the summer months, anyone know?
Too much is made of 'the grit season'. While broadly it's true, you can get some cracking conditions in the middle of summer, esp. when very low humidity and a cooling breeze combine. I modestly note that I did Slab and Crack at about this time a few years ago, though it's mostly edge-work.
Conditions count for nothin' if you have enough psyche.
I'd agree to an extent as I did Obsession Fatale in August.
However I do prefer the colder conditions for more marginal climbing.
Is he climbing the sit down to Help the Aged in the photo?
Hey, it's not like he needed it!
was a delight to watch,very natural.
Jack - "Deliverance V8+ etc" You should be ashamed of yourself. This is the Peak.
That picture isn't "Help The Aged" is it?
is this on the list of last great grit probs?
I'm afraid he called it "Black Out".
Indeed it was:
"Arete left of Roof Route; Burbage South; Bold, hold-less and overhanging arete with gruesome landing. All yours ... "
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