/ NEWS: Japanese Junior Hits The Grit

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UKC News - on 17 Aug 2009
[Toru Nakajima climbing the Victorian Overmantel, V9, Stanage, 3 kb]15 year old Toru Nakajima climbs E8:

In the first few days of his summer cragging trip, the young Japanese climber visited Stanage and managed an onsight ascent of The Storm (V9), a fast repeat of Deliverance (V8+) and then moved on to the Victorian Overmantel (V9), dispatching the hideous move on his third try in the full summer sun.


Routes that have had the Toru treatment so far include the Burbage test-pieces Simba's Pride (E8), which he rapidly headpointed, Life Assurance (E6) climbed on sight, and he has moved on to top roping Parthian Shot and Dynamics of Change (both E9)...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=48849

Mr. K - on 17 Aug 2009
Pretty sure I saw him bouldering at Stanage over the weekend - looked very impressive.
galpinos - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Isn't this him getting the 4th ascent of Elm Street?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=121913

snoop6060 - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to galpinos:

"I want to climb Gritstone. It is my dream."

Love it.
Michael Ryan - on 17 Aug 2009
So far we've deleted four , 'what's he done on grit' posts ; o )



In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: A victim of your own success Mick.

Stunning effort. Glad he's enjoying himself.
Jus - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to UKC News:

what a dude!
whistler - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to UKC News:
How do you "headpoint" Simbas Pride? As far as I remember the only option is to solo it or is there some new method of protecting the route?
Jeff25 - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to whistler:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> How do you "headpoint" Simbas Pride? As far as I remember the only option is to solo it or is there some new method of protecting the route?

As i understand it Headpointing is just redpointing on trad so not necessarily a need for a rope or gear...
whistler - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to Jeff25: Fair enough but I think if he actually did climb it without ropes or gear it's a whole different story. How often does E8 get soloed? By a 15-year old...
Fire Marshall - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Serious effort.....fcukin' nice one!

J
Keeg - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to whistler:
> (In reply to Jeff25) Fair enough but I think if he actually did climb it without ropes or gear it's a whole different story. How often does E8 get soloed? By a 15-year old...

If the route is a solo then it gets soloed. Either onsight, or (more commonly with E8's) it is pre-practised and then soloed (i.e. headpointed).
Lot's of E8's are solo's, off the top of my head:
Elm Street (which he soloed after practice)
Doug
Angels Share
Simba's Pride (apparently, although I don't personaly know that this is a solo)
And numerous others...

So whenever one of these routes get repeated then an E8 gets soloed, probably happens quite often, as for fifteen year olds doing it I have no idea...
Jeff25 - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> Lot's of E8's are solo's, off the top of my head:
> Elm Street (which he soloed after practice)
> Doug
> Angels Share
> Simba's Pride (apparently, although I don't personaly know that this is a solo)
> And numerous others...
>

you're forgetting one of the ones you've done - Obsession fatale! or is there gear on this now !?!

Keeg - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to Jeff25:
You can place gear low donw, it's a bit pointless but is gear. I think most people just solo it but the gear is there if you've got Mr Bolt as belayer...

P.S. Mighty fine effort by the young chap in question, very impressive.
In reply to UKC News: Good effort Toru, and whoever nicked his bouldering mat from Stanage - shame on you! Give it back.

Jack
HeMa on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> So far we've deleted four , 'what's he done on grit' posts ; o )

Well... that is simply because it has to be posted at least once... and since you guys keep deleting them, well every smart arse will think he'll be the 1st one to psot something (not so) clever....
ChrisJD on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to HeMa:

...but what's he done at Stoney ....


"I want to climb Peak Limestone. It is my dream."


Now that would be cool.
cheque on 17 Aug 2009
What possessed him to choose August for a gritstone trip?!

Having said that, it doesn't seem to have caused him any problems...
James Oswald - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to UKC News:
Nice work.
Hardonicus - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to UKC News: First the Australians, then the Americans. Now they are sending kids over to kick our asses...
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orge - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to MikeCheque:
> What possessed him to choose August for a gritstone trip?!
>
> Having said that, it doesn't seem to have caused him any problems...

Imagine if he came back in the winter...
TonyG - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to MikeCheque:
> What possessed him to choose August for a gritstone trip?!


School holidays perhaps?
Dan_Carroll - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
... and whoever nicked his bouldering mat from Stanage - shame on you! Give it back.
>
> Jack

Bloody appalling. what kind of asshole would do that?

anyway amazing effort by this kid, obviously someone has neglected to tell him the grit season doesn't start for another 3 months!

on a separate note, how many other E8's have been climbed during the summer months, anyone know?
Jon Read - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to Dan_Carroll:
Too much is made of 'the grit season'. While broadly it's true, you can get some cracking conditions in the middle of summer, esp. when very low humidity and a cooling breeze combine. I modestly note that I did Slab and Crack at about this time a few years ago, though it's mostly edge-work.

Conditions count for nothin' if you have enough psyche.
Keeg - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to Jon Read:
I'd agree to an extent as I did Obsession Fatale in August.
However I do prefer the colder conditions for more marginal climbing.
Graeme Alderson on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Tell him he can borrow one of us if he wants
craig d - on 17 Aug 2009
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Is he climbing the sit down to Help the Aged in the photo?
rae on 17 Aug 2009 - profscapegoat.plus.com
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
> (In reply to UKC News) Good effort Toru, and whoever nicked his bouldering mat from Stanage - shame on you! Give it back.

Hey, it's not like he needed it!

mark s - on 18 Aug 2009
In reply to UKC News: i spotted him on elm street,very calm.didnt realise he was 15 though!!!
was a delight to watch,very natural.
seagull on 18 Aug 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Impressive stuff.

Jack - "Deliverance V8+ etc" You should be ashamed of yourself. This is the Peak.
beardy mike - on 18 Aug 2009
In reply to UKC News: But what's he done on the Mot ;) Cracking efforts! Hopefully he won't just do thing's on the grit though - would be a shame to miss out on some of the other great climbing in Britain!
Boy - on 18 Aug 2009
In reply to craig d: Nearly, it's the sit start to Help the Young, so V11 not V6 as captioned.
simes303 - on 18 Aug 2009
In reply to UKC News:

That picture isn't "Help The Aged" is it?
In reply to simes303: see post at 12.41 Tue
Ackbar - on 19 Aug 2009
In reply to UKC News: Anymore news?
andy farnell - on 20 Aug 2009
In reply to Ackbar: He's done the F.A. of the right arete on the Simba's Pride block. Grade around E9 6c apparently.

Andy F
Morgan Woods - on 20 Aug 2009
In reply to andy farnell:

crikey!
Jon Read - on 20 Aug 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:
seconded. Wowzers.
Morgan Woods - on 20 Aug 2009
In reply to Jon Read:

is this on the list of last great grit probs?
In reply to andy farnell: Great stuff, I hope he gives it a totally unpronounceable Japanese name!
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galpinos - on 20 Aug 2009
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to andy farnell) Great stuff, I hope he gives it a totally unpronounceable Japanese name!

I'm afraid he called it "Black Out".
Jon Read - on 20 Aug 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:
Indeed it was:
"Arete left of Roof Route; Burbage South; Bold, hold-less and overhanging arete with gruesome landing. All yours ... "
mark s - on 20 Aug 2009
In reply to Jon Read: all right mucka? saw him working it the day he did elm street.he was having to work hard compared to elm st.

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