UKC

When clipping a quickdraw into your protection does it matter which karabiner you use to clip in? I'm not sure thats worded well but basically is it the krab with restricted movement or the one with a fuller range of movement that should connect to the protection? Im thinking the restricted one but I dont understand why (if I am right).

In reply to ajsteele: which krab are you on about?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=1954

In reply to ajsteele:
your supposed to clip the freely moving one to the gear, this is so if the rest of the draw moves its less likely to move the gear, my fixed crab on my draw is conveniently red, and when racking up remind myself 'red rope'

In reply to The Green Giant:

Thanks for the quick answer. My fixed krab is blue though so I'll have to think of a different mnemonic

In reply to ajsteele: Previous poster is correct. the other reasons the fixed krab goes to the rope are that:

once the qd is on the gear you don't want the free krab to inadvertantly rotate as you then have to fiddle it back, wasting precious seconds when in extremis!

once above your gear you probably don't want the rope end krab to rotate as it might catch on something and be in danger of being open in the event of a fall.

In reply to The Green Giant:

Hmm I tried that but got confused by red-rock.

In reply to ajsteele:

Yes, the crab with the fuller range of movement clips to the gear.

It's worth being consistent about it because the crab that goes into bolt hangers or wires can pick up small scratches and nicks, which aren't good to run a weighted climbing rope over - keep your rope clipping crab just for the rope.

Best to always rack QDs on your harness the right way up to start with.