/ Japanese climbers 2 E9's in a day

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Alex Ekins - on 25 Aug 2009
Today (Tuesday) Toru Nakajima headpointed Childs Play/Nocturnal Emission, placed gear in break, then continued up Partheon Shot after placing the gear in the flake on lead.
We then drove to Black Rocks where Toru headpointed Meshuga (he had headpointed Gaia on Sunday). Blacks Rocks was very damp and humid today and Toru led the route between showers.
Also to clear up any misunderstanding re Toru's new E9 "Black Out", this route was soloed with only one small mat and no spotters (and as has already been mentioned by some on this forum, the landing isn't good). The crux is at the top.
I witnessed all the above ascents and they were all done in fine style after minimal top rope practice.
He goes home tomorrow a very happy 15 year-old.
Cheers
Alex
Morgan Woods - on 25 Aug 2009
In reply to alexekins:

wow!
idiotproof (Buxton MC) - on 26 Aug 2009
In reply to alexekins:

Sounds like he has had a good look around and started to get a feel for the Grit... Is he planning on coming back and actually having a go at some hard climbs at any point, it sounds like he may have some climbing potential.


The final line of your post is the important on "He goes home tomorrow a very happy 15 year old". It wouldn't matter if the previous 5-6 lines had said he fluffed a VS and climbed a severes. As long as he had fun. b

It does sound like he is an awesome talent and I have only read good things from people who have met him. Sounds like a really nice lad...tell him to come back soon.

Alex Ekins - on 26 Aug 2009
In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC): Today I asked Toru when he was coming back to the UK. He said in 3 or 4 years.
JSA - on 26 Aug 2009
In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC):
> (In reply to alexekins)
> > Sounds like he has had a good look around and started to get a feel for the Grit...

you're joking right?


Sounds to me like the lad has mastered it :op
DIrvine on 06 Sep 2009 - cpc1-ayle2-0-0-cust987.watf.cable.ntl.com
I watched Toru on Gaia and Meshuga on the Sunday(23 August). He led Gaia then top roped Meshuga. He is quite short. On Meshuga he couldn't reach a hold as he moved right near the start. After several tries (on top rope) he came up with a sort of double slap to reach the hold. It just didn't look possible. After about half an hour of improving attempts he finally climbed the whole thing. Toru said he'd come back and do it another day. Alex was belaying and was a lot less sure, he didn't want any accidents. Videos do not compare to actually watching the real thing. I was privileged to watch a grandmaster.
TheGeneralist - on 06 Sep 2009
In reply to alexekins:
I'm intrigued as to why you put an apostrophe in E9s and didn't put one in climber's?
Geordie - on 06 Sep 2009
In reply to TheGeneralist:
> (In reply to alexekins)
> I'm intrigued as to why you put an apostrophe in E9s and didn't put one in climber's?

He probably eats shoots and leaves !
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chris fox on 06 Sep 2009
In reply to Geordie:
> (In reply to TheGeneralist)
> [...]
>
> He probably eats shoots and leaves !

That's Pandas, they live in China NOT Japan.......


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