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Topic - Japanese climbers 2 E9's in a day

Alex Ekins - on 25 Aug 2009
Today (Tuesday) Toru Nakajima headpointed Childs Play/Nocturnal Emission, placed gear in break, then continued up Partheon Shot after placing the gear in the flake on lead.
We then drove to Black Rocks where Toru headpointed Meshuga (he had headpointed Gaia on Sunday). Blacks Rocks was very damp and humid today and Toru led the route between showers.
Also to clear up any misunderstanding re Toru's new E9 "Black Out", this route was soloed with only one small mat and no spotters (and as has already been mentioned by some on this forum, the landing isn't good). The crux is at the top.
I witnessed all the above ascents and they were all done in fine style after minimal top rope practice.
He goes home tomorrow a very happy 15 year-old.
Cheers
Alex
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