/ NEWS: On Form and On Sight - George Ullrich - E7
George Ullrich - on sight on The Bells The Bells.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49178
Handholds snap, and the crux is in an extremely serious position...What if a handhold snaps there, and you're not in a position to control it?
This kind of climbing fascinates me. How do you justify leaving that much to chance? Is the unpredictability of the rock exaggerated?
Do you need to justify it? Certainly not to anyone else.
Thanks for that, I love it when people avoid the direct question in favour of condescending pan-ethical bollocks.
An attempt at pedant-proof wording: How does one justify to oneself the decision to attempt a climb on which variables beyond one's control could result in death?
Sorry, that sounded a tiny wee bit grumpy.
> How does one justify to oneself the decision to attempt a climb on which variables beyond one's control could result in death?
Only those attempting and climbing such routes can answer that question.
My mate onsighted it 15 years ago after 6 pints the night before in The Heights.
And he didn't put the side runner in The Cad.
Anyone got any idea roughly what french grade it gets?
Fine effort nevertheless considering the state of the peg
> Fine effort nevertheless considering the state of the peg
No but I think one or two people have claimed it as such.
> Handholds snap, and the crux is in an extremely serious position...What if a handhold snaps there, and you're not in a position to control it?
> This kind of climbing fascinates me. How do you justify leaving that much to chance? Is the unpredictability of the rock exaggerated?
That's the type of climbing that Dave Mcleod has decided not to do - a perfectly good decision!
I often climb slightly snappy routes, and I quite enjoy them. Part of the skill is reading the rock, testing holds and moving in a way that minimises the risk of snapping or falling.
I guess you could say the same of very smeary routes - if your foot slips then you fall - is that a variable beyond your control? Perhaps that is why many of today's harder trad routes require more strength and fitness.
Personally for me climbing has always had an element of danger, and that is what attracted me to it I guess. Although often it terrifies me!
I guess I justify it to myself by subconsciously convincing myself that I have the experience or skill-set to either not fall, or protect myself if I do fall.
Whether this is actually true or not is of course impossible to know. 'Accidentally succeeding' on these type of routes can result in a confidence being built up in skills that perhaps are purely down to chance and don't actually exist.
Who knows. But climbing scary routes feels very fulfilling.
And good effort George! Be safe!
It did, but probably with a little justification. I do despair of what John Cox used to call the bedwetting tendency on this forum, but you are clearly not of that. Sorry.
Ah... but has it been onsighted without performance-enhancing drugs!?
Will G asked:
F7a+ (...ish. Reportedly. I ventured no further than the end of the first traverse before realising this was a whole other ball-game than The Cad)
Good effort by Mr Ulrich.
Cheers for the response Jack.
I guess that's the thing; when soloing even very easy things I try not to pull too hard on anything, to distribute weight evenly and always move in balance etc. But to go out on rock that has such a ferocious reputation, where holds are almost guaranteed to break under stress, and with minimal protection, is both very impressive and quite mad.
I try to do exactly the same ice climbing, although I have quite a hard time convincing even myself! :-) I remember one of the description to a Gogarth Route in Steve Ashton's lovely selected guide to N. Wales from the early 90s finished with the the sentence "Ice climbers will understand".
Yep - a brilliant effort and great for a punter numpty such as myself who likes to wear a helmet see yet another well 'ard climber choosing to wear a lid also.
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