/ NEWS: Grandad Haston Climbs 9a at 52 years old

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Morgan Woods - on 17 Sep 2009
EDIT: When you reach that age, your muscles give up, they wave a little white flag and suddenly before you know it you are a fat @%@&!^£t B

But not for all.

Grandad Stevie Haston Climbs 9a at 52 years old.

Read more:http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49308
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I thought he was still over here:

amazing!
goneforever on 17 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

"Some of the postings by those f****** on the UKC and UKB forums about Bam Bam also made me angry which probably helped as well. "

biped - on 17 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Awesome stuff, big round of applause for that and Bam Bam! He continues to inspire. I hope he does come back to the UK and ruffle feathers again soon, and I hope he keeps posting on here.
Richard White on 17 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Absolutely inspirational stuff!!

Wow!

Rich
Morgan Woods - on 17 Sep 2009
In reply to Richard White:

i would have thought an 8c+ into a 7a would warrant a jump to 9a....let alone into an 8a+ then 8a!!
witnessthis - on 17 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:Amazing and an achievement that again shows how mentaly strong Stevie can be-I would guess mentally one of the strongest climbers the UK has ever produced.
Steve Perry - on 17 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods: Wow!!
Derbyshire Ben on 17 Sep 2009 - host84-93-33-182.plus.net
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Amazing effort.
James Moyle - on 17 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods: Nice One! Good see Manolo and Haston aren't letting the youf have it all their own way!
stevemarkperry - on 17 Sep 2009
In reply to James Moyle:

Very inspirational indeed.
shark - on 17 Sep 2009
In reply to witnessthis: Amazing and an achievement that again shows how mentaly strong Stevie can be


Or mentally unhinged...Inspirational and a kick up the backside in equal measure for old and young alike
3 Names - on 17 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:




kin awsome!
In reply to Morgan Woods: Radical!
Gordon Stainforth - on 17 Sep 2009
In reply to Simon Lee:

Yeah, let's hope, on his present form, that he comes back very soon and kicks yet more arse as a 52-year old.
Dan_Carroll - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

> i would have thought an 8c+ into a 7a would warrant a jump to 9a....let alone into an 8a+ then 8a!!

agreed, also amazing when you consider La Rambla is supposed to be an 8c+ with 5m of 7b+ on top.

absolutely outstanding effort.



JSA - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:
> EDIT: When you reach that age, your muscles give up, they wave a little white flag and suddenly before you know it you are a fat @%@&!^£t B
>
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> I thought he was still over here:
>
> amazing!

I think you'll find that Carter nicked that line from red dwarf.


Good going Stevie. Amazing effort!
crombie - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to the inspiral carpet:

!Ace!
Henry Iddon - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Top man - never doubt the Haston!
ndp - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods: good lad!
crabduck on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Outstanding achievement, heartfelt congrats
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Crofty - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods: Good one Stevie, you are an inspiration. Crofty.
Jeff25 - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC:

I didnt know MacLeod had climbed 9a. Was this El Muerta out in Suirana?
Morgan Woods - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Jeff25:

yes....it was part of his "training" for echo wall.
JLS on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

>"Haston Climbs 9a"

Just shows you the value of training on loose sh!t in Wales. I'm sure Jack Geldard will flash it next week (TV schedules allowing).
catt on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Inspirational. But 700 calories a day? I think I wouldn't have the energy to stand up!
ClimberEd - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Awesome stuff. He certainly 'puts his money where his mouth is'
Chris F - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to ClimberEd:
> (In reply to Morgan Woods)
>
> Awesome stuff. He certainly 'puts his money where his mouth is'

Might as well put money there, as at 700 calories a day there isn't much food going where his mouth is.

Amazing effort, have a kebab to celebrate!



Ian Parnell - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Chris F: Truly outstanding, glad to see that the dark clouds of the forums were able to push you somewhere positive.
north country boy - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Ian Parnell: Amazing effort! Inspiring stuff...
The sharp end - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Truly fantastic!
Michael Ryan - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Ian Parnell:
> (In reply to Chris F) Truly outstanding, glad to see that the dark clouds of the forums were able to push you somewhere positive.

The forums are generally bright and sunny Ian. If you do zoom in to the odd negative post by an individual it can rain on your head for a while, until you wake up!

If you check the individual forums you'll get what I mean and your perception will change.

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Garbh Coire - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods: Time to write that book, Stevie!?
Mr. K - on 18 Sep 2009
Effort! Well done Stevie. Bo)
ericinbristol - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Garbh Coire:
> Time to write that book, Stevie!?

Now that is a book I'd like to read...

Morgan Woods - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
how about some user stats Mick :p
Michael Ryan - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

I'll do a special user stat report just for you Morgan in a few weeks time.
ericinbristol - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Ian Parnell:

How about a book from you one of these days Ian?
Oliver Hill - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods: Inspirational. Great news for you young guys you now know where you can go.
But what about us old guys? I am trying to re do a route I did 22 years ago right now when I was at my top rope peak at 52, and there just is not the power endurance. Of course I could loose 20 kg and do all sorts of things that Steve has done. I guess that is the problem. You need an awful lot of enthusiasm which Steve clearly always has. But then he is achieving something unique.
Actually what I have always admired in Steve from his writing, I dont know him at all, is his dedication to the true spirit of climbing (as I see it).
Do us a favour Stevie tell us what you will have done when you are 70, then I will have 6 years to beat you at it. I don't think.
witnessthis - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Dan_Carroll: The 7b+(?) bit stopped dani andrada,Yugi Hirayama,caused a 2year struggle for Ramon Puig-Blanc,1 year struggle for Edu marin etc.So quite tricky..Perhaps the the 8c+ bit is a little harder?
martin heywood - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Well this is definitely the news of the year.
Congratulations Stevie.
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krikoman - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods: All very well, but what's he done on grit?
ianto - on 18 Sep 2009
you da man!
Ian Parnell - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Mick said "The forums are generally bright and sunny Ian. If you do zoom in to the odd negative post by an individual it can rain on your head for a while, until you wake up!"

I was just dialing in on Stevie's perception of the forums not mine, I would have used different adjectives :-)!! and the fact that Stevie actually thrives and picks out criticism to fire him on.
Ackbar - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods: I'm suprised that anyone is inspired by this.
Michael Ryan - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Ian Parnell:

Steve's achievement has gone out as the lead story and title in our newsletter (to 44,000).

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/weekly.html

Is on our facebook feed: http://www.facebook.com/ukclimbing?ref=ts

over a 1,000 fans

And we have several positive news reports

Grandad Haston Climbs 9a at 52 years old
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49308

Stevie Haston - New E8 on Craig Dorys
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49206

Geldard Onsights Haston Super Route. Haston Speaks
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49254

This is how positive we are editorially at UKClimbing.com.

AND if you look at the threads associated with these reports, most are in awe of Stevie's achievements.

Credit were credit is due.

Yes, you will get the odd neg comment from the odd individual. But NEVER forget how positive we are here at UKC it is in the culture of the organisation - with odd bit of piss taking.

: o )

Mick
off to Pembroke.... hurrrayyy!!!
Serpico on 18 Sep 2009 - 82-70-37-198.dsl.in-addr.zen.co.uk
In reply to Ackbar:
> (In reply to Morgan Woods) I'm suprised that anyone is inspired by this.

Yeah, a 52 yr old climbing 17 grades harder than a 28yr old, where's the inspiration in that?

Carless - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Serpico:

well said

Ackbar - strange comment
Ian Parnell - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Mick this is just to give you another chance to post self congratulatory links and stats in reply. I'm not doubting that UKC has given Stevie overwhelming positive support, thats not the point (as you know but don't want to let it get in the way of your advertorial :-)!) If 100 posters congratulated Stevie and 1 dissed him, Stevie wouldn't see the hundred but the critic would fire him through another 1000 pullups. It's not the way I work, but my point is if that works for Stevie, if it leads to something positive like him climbing 9a, then great.
martin heywood - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Ackbar:
> (In reply to Morgan Woods) I'm suprised that anyone is inspired by this.



What?????
Ackbar - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Serpico: Does nobody here think that a person's personality is more important than the level at which they climb? I really am suprised. I for one am more inspired by the likes of.....just at random....Ben Bransby.
Graeme Alderson on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Ackbar:
> (In reply to Serpico) Does nobody here think that a person's personality is more important than the level at which they climb? I really am suprised.

But reporting on Fred Snodgrass, who is a really nice guy and has an amazing personality, doing his 1st 6b+ isn't really news.

Plus Stevie is quite a personality.
ericinbristol - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Ackbar:

You are on the wrong site if that's your view. This is UKC(limbing) not UKP(ersonality).
Carless - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Ackbar:

Slightly beside the point

You really think a 52 year old doing a 9a is not noteworthy nor inspirational?
Enty - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Serpico:
> (In reply to Ackbar)
> [...]
>
> Yeah, a 52 yr old climbing 17 grades harder than a 28yr old, where's the inspiration in that?

PMSL!!! Nice one.

Enty
Ackbar - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Carless: O.K I guess it is beside the point. But I still don't find it inspiring. I guess lack of empathy.
ClimberEd - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Ackbar:
> (In reply to Carless) O.K I guess it is beside the point. But I still don't find it inspiring. I guess lack of empathy.

Are you being serious?!

Doesn't it inspire you that you will never (well, almost never) have the excuse that you are too old.
Ackbar - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to ClimberEd: I know where you are coming from and you are probably right. I guess I'll understand more when I get older. But pure physical achievements do not really inspire in the same way that I couldn't care less about a 14 year old doing 3 F9as. That's because everyone is different in terms of physical make up (the card you are dealt) and in time they can (or want to) dedicate to climbing. My inspiration comes more from people who undertake a climbing challenge in a particular way i.e. adventurous (e.g. Littlejohn, Fowler, Arran and of course Haston) or esoteric (e.g. the reports recent of offwidth climbing) or with good humour (Kirkpatrick of course) or with passion (Macleod, Pearson etc). Now you can say that Haston has lots of passion but, and this is the crux of it all, it's all a bit negative (refer to Parnell's comments). There you go.
JPGR - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Ackbar: What you on? I think training like mad and going on a 700kcal a day diet probably requires a bit of passion for climbing. Haston has already done a wide variety of very adventurous climbing and now in his retirement seems to be concentrating on routes purely for their difficulty.

Can't see how you can relate his passion which seems just as big to being less than that of Macleod and Pearson, in many ways I reckon he has a bigger personality and passion than Macleod or Pearson.

Sometimes a bitter of negativity does fire people up. You telling me if you where stood below boulder problem or climb you wanted to do and someone told you you weren't good enough for it you wouldn't get you fired up and probably give it a go and maybe that extra spark would get you up it? I know its happened to me!
Robert Wilson on 18 Sep 2009 - host86-162-133-40.range86-162.btcentralplus.com
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com, etc: Obviously I'm a bit biased, but is this the only 9a done by a Brit this year?
witnessthis - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Ackbar: With all due respect i would say Stevie Haston is a bit of a personality one of a kind in fact!
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In reply to Serpico:
> (In reply to Ackbar)
> [...]
>
> Yeah, a 52 yr old climbing 17 grades harder than a 28yr old, where's the inspiration in that?

While I can't agree with the sentiment that his achievements are un-inspirational, they don't especially inspire me. I'm not sure why. It may be the fact that he's climbing grades that are unimaginable to me, or that his methods don't appear to be physically or mentally healthy - I don't know. Certainly a superb achievement though.

Graeme Alderson on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Robert Wilson: No Rob me and Patta did one in Asturias at the start of August. Richie said it was a path though.






















And then we read the guidebook ;-)
Andy Moles - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to wayno265:

Maybe people are confusing 'inspirational' with 'impressive'? I guess it's quite inspiring that he's proving it's possible to perform better than ever at an age when you're supposed to be well past it, but given what he has to put himself through to climb that hard (700 calories a day??) I can't say it inspires me much personally, because realistically I know I can and will never do that, and wouldn't want to. Impressive it obviously is though. Hooray.
shark - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to andy moles:


Bit of imagination required Moley. Inspired doeasn't mean slavishly following. Soemone might be inspired enough into doing a bit more and eating a bit less to climb 7a. It certainly kicks into touch the self-limiting belief that you can't climb hard in your 50's.

andy farnell - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods: This is truely inspirational. It goes to show that with hard work and dedication you can achieve your goals, no matter what age. I know I can climb harder than I curently do, this proves it. Climbing - the ageless sport.

Andy F
griffithsa - on 18 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:
Wow! absolutely amazing effort, inspiring for sure. Definately motivated to train hard and reach those dizzying heights!
Brendan - on 19 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:
Go Haston! This fills me with joy - anything is possible! What a total legend.
Robert Wilson on 19 Sep 2009 - host86-162-133-40.range86-162.btcentralplus.com
In reply to Graeme Alderson: Oh well graham, you've still got a couple of years yet. Both of you. Start training now though...
Andy Moles - on 19 Sep 2009
In reply to Simon Lee:

Yeah fair enough, point taken. 'Inspiring' is just one of those words that is thrown around a lot. Like it's a cliché that it's a cliché that the word genius is overused in sport.

On another note, what do you do to celebrate when your body is a temple? I just can't imagine.
shark - on 19 Sep 2009
In reply to andy moles: what do you do to celebrate when your body is a temple? I just can't imagine

One of life's great paradoxes covered well here:

http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2009_06_01_archive.html

scroll down to 'Earning the raspberry cheescake'
JimR - on 19 Sep 2009
In reply to Simon Lee:
> (In reply to andy moles)
>
>
> Bit of imagination required Moley. Inspired doeasn't mean slavishly following. Soemone might be inspired enough into doing a bit more and eating a bit less to climb 7a. It certainly kicks into touch the self-limiting belief that you can't climb hard in your 50's.

absolutely .. time to lose a few Kg and train harder!

Enty - on 19 Sep 2009
In reply to andy moles:
> (In reply to Simon Lee)

>
> On another note, what do you do to celebrate when your body is a temple? I just can't imagine.

easy - read Bradley Wiggins' bio.

Athens - gold medal - 2 year bender - start training again - Beijing - more medals - go on the piss again - train harder - come 4th in Tour de France.

Absolute piece of piss ;-)

Enty
Quiddity - on 19 Sep 2009
In reply to andy moles:

Really? I find it dead inspiring even though I know that I probably won't ever follow the same approach (mostly because I like food so much)

But what it is, to me, I think, is a bit of a holy grail that you can continue to climb practically cutting edge stuff in your 50s if you want it enough. Ok, it has always been fairly evident in climbing that you can continue to improve much later in life than in other sports, (and there have been a nuber of climbers reported doing this, Rab Carrington is one, Geraldine Taylor is another) but where this is different is 9a feels reasonably close to the limit of what has been done on rock.

It demonstrates not just that personal climbing barriers can be broken at the age of 52, but barriers in the sport as well. THAT is inspiring.
Wee Davie - on 19 Sep 2009
In reply to Simon Lee:

Brilliant blog post from Dave Mac!

Though I walk through the valley of the booze isle, real ales, red wine and lager shall not, my soul tempt.
Ackbar - on 19 Sep 2009
In reply to Jon Redshaw:

> Sometimes a bitter of negativity does fire people up. You telling me if you where stood below boulder problem or climb you wanted to do and someone told you you weren't good enough for it you wouldn't get you fired up and probably give it a go and maybe that extra spark would get you up it? I know its happened to me!


Serious!?! No, I can without doubt say that would not fire me up. This is why I was not inspired by his ascent. Because he said that people critising him (although actually just politely pointing out their point of view on climbing ethics) inspired him to climb it. It's a bit sad, really.
Robert Wilson on 19 Sep 2009 - host86-162-133-40.range86-162.btcentralplus.com
In reply to Ackbar: Yawn. Go on then, you inspire us more please.
slapperv6 - on 19 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

inspiration has by definition got to be a personal thing, i know where ackbar is coming from, he says it impresses him just doesnt inspire him and that surely is just an honest viewpoint.

jonna
tobyfk - on 20 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Just fantastic. The most inspiring news story for years.

A shame Mr Parnell doesn't have the good grace to go and hide in a hole for a few months rather than try to claim some credit!
Quiddity - on 20 Sep 2009
In reply to Ackbar:

So, then, what? You're standing below a boulder problem, some self-appointwed guardian of local ethics tells you it's too hard for you, you get a bit cross and send it next go - that's not an inspiring ascent, it's just sad, is it?
mr mills - on 20 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Typicall Brits is`nt it, always knocking someone who is at the top of their game !

Keep it up Stevie,

mills.
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JDal - on 20 Sep 2009
In reply to mr mills:

From a near extreme end of trad (loose, hard and dangerous and in good style) to a VERY high end of sport in a few days - that's amazing Stevie, and inspiring, even to a 60+.


> (In reply to Morgan Woods)
>
> Typicall Brits is`nt it, always knocking someone who is at the top of their game !

Hardly typical, most of the contributors on this thread are congratulating Stevie. Hardly typical, most of the contributors on this thread are congratulating Stevie. If you're in slag Britain off mode, try get the English a bit closer ;)

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