UKC

are grades at westway desperate or am i a northern wuss

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 gfell 19 Sep 2009
Am I being a wuss
I went to westway for the first time last week. I struggled on routes that were a full number grade less than I am used to up north
Is it deliberately desperate or am I just a wuss?
 womblesi 19 Sep 2009
In reply to gfell: Compared to the two walls I have been to up north I find the Westway is a bit more generous with its grades.

Though I have heard a few complaints in relation one of the route setters there at the moment.
 AJM 19 Sep 2009
In reply to gfell:

I've always found westway considerably easier than calshot, so I dread to think how generous northern grades must be by comparison
fred_stone 20 Sep 2009
In reply to womblesi: oh go on, spill, who is it?
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 20 Sep 2009
In reply to gfell: Are you comparing to walls or real outdoor bouldering?
 Postmanpat 20 Sep 2009
In reply to gfell:
Westway is at least a grade easier than Craggy or Calshot.
 Oceanrower 20 Sep 2009
In reply to Postmanpat:
> (In reply to gfell)
> Westway is at least a grade easier than Craggy or Calshot.

Seconded!


 womblesi 20 Sep 2009
In reply to fred_stone: Lol. Luckily I can't remember the name off the top of my head.
 Moacs 20 Sep 2009
In reply to gfell:

Troll. They're the softest wall grades of the 8 walls I know.
 alx 20 Sep 2009
In reply to gfell: The new set of routes on the steep over hanging walls around the old feature boulder wall have been set by Liam Hasley and are all rather hard.

Hard they may be they are also some of the most interesting I have encountered in a long while!
 nigel pearson 21 Sep 2009
In reply to gfell: Westway tends to have routes that require power endurance so if you are good at that they feel ok. Like any wall that I have been to some of the grades are soft and some are hard. Also who the route setter is can make a lot of difference.
 Monk 21 Sep 2009
In reply to gfell:

> Am I being a wuss
> I went to westway for the first time last week. I struggled on routes that were a full number grade less than I am used to up north
> Is it deliberately desperate or am I just a wuss?

I've not been in a while, but I have always found the grades at westway to be nicely set (on the whole) and consistant but fairly generous!
 Fatclimber 21 Sep 2009
In reply to Oceanrower: Thirded ! Craggy grades are far harder.
 teflonpete 22 Sep 2009
In reply to gfell: I've found grades to be at least a full grade easier at Westway than Amersham.
Amersham 5+ = Westway 6a+ = Craggy 6a = Brookes 6a - 6a+
 Cliff Hanger 22 Sep 2009
In reply to Fatclimber: Thanks mate!
 Ramon Marin 22 Sep 2009
In reply to alx:

When Liam sets the routes, they are always harder, so more probably like the other walls. When Yann, Slim, Sandeep or Neil do the route setting feel pretty soft for the grade, with the odd exception. IMO.
 Fatclimber 22 Sep 2009
In reply to Cliff Hanger: I think it is what you compare to, as the disparity continues outside. I think Craggy grades are comparable to Dancing Ledge, which is harder than Tintern quarry for instance (I can't comment on more Morthern venues).
 Max factor 22 Sep 2009
In reply to ramon marin martinez:
> (In reply to alx)
>
> When Liam sets the routes, they are always harder, so more probably like the other walls. When Yann, Slim, Sandeep or Neil do the route setting feel pretty soft for the grade, with the odd exception. IMO.

When I started climbing we used to think Liam's routes were nails compared to the other route setters, so extra respect if you did a Liam route. With a lot more experience under my belt, I now think they are ace, really well thought out and proabably fair for the grade.

but yes, WW grades are soft!
 Ade7 22 Sep 2009
In reply to womblesi:
> Lol. Luckily I can't remember the name off the top of my head.

I think I know who you are talking about.
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