UKC

Do I want these?

They seem good for me, thinking I'm fairly weak in the arms and won't be able to swing about too many more grams, looking at the use of lightweight alpine potential ski touring one day and lower grade climbing on all sorts of terrain which is what their stated use is....

But what are your thoughts?

In reply to ligemidio: http://www.theoutdoorshop.com/showPart.asp?part=PN31323 good deal on em if u decide you want them!

In reply to ligemidio:

You may find you get better penetration with a bit more meat.

Lite axes a good for fall arrest practice and flying with etc but the extra weight of heavier axes is much better if you want to cut steps or climb with them.

It can be harder work using lite axes than using heavier ones.

In reply to ligemidio:
I have had the Aztar(same heads) they are well balanced so go in well despite being light. I only changed as I like leashless ice climbing which might be better with the Aztarex. I think they'd be great!

In reply to winhill:


This isn't true - or at least it's rather misleading. It's not the weight of the tools that matter, its the balance. Heavy tools where too much of the weight is in the shaft are not go, same for lighter tools. What you want are tools where the weight that there is, is predominantly focused in the head. My modern tools are considerably lighter than my older tools but climb better because the balance is better, plus they are less tiring over all.

Having said all that I've not used the Aztarex so don't know what their balance is like though.

In reply to ligemidio: I was considering these but then couldn't afford them so picked up some Grivel litewing bargains on fleabay. These didn't have a pommel and I found to start with they were difficult to control because of a lack of grip. So I got some self amalgamating tape, covered the shafts and now they are really really good. The perfect tool for what you are describing. I would imagine that with the same mod the Aztarex would be an awesome tool...

In reply to ligemidio: That's exactly why I went for them. I travel all over with them, so being light weight was crucial. The only niggle I have is that on hard water ice, you really have to put some effort into the swing. Other than that, I can't fault them. I had Axars before them, and found them a little on the heavy side for backpacking/travelling, and for holding above the head. I fitted the Saf-Lock leashes to the Aztarexes and they work well. They plunge well even with the finger rests. I love them!

In reply to ligemidio: I will also add that on their first outing, I found that the shafts turned in the hand easily, so I ended up blattering the ice with the side of the pick. Soon after, I added strips of rubber/foam to widen the grip (I can e-mail pics if you like as it's not easy to describe where I've added them), wrapping Petzl's own 'grip roll' over the handle and this solved the problem instantly.

In reply to ligemidio:

Thanks people, I feel good about having them on order now
Just need to get out and use them!! Hmm winter planning.... why do I have a sick urge to spend 2 weeks in Scotland somehow going from grade I to IV and losing a considerable amount of cash in the process???

As for the swing factor they put on their website "High performance swing due minimal weight at rotation point (minimized shaft weight)" and I thought that sounded quite good, pretty much the selling point as I have noticed axes for ice fall were considerably heavier so probably an important factor to balance out.

Weejamie, I was thinking of the grip tape and leashes too, are the saflock ones the same as freelock essentially or is it a completely different leash from somewhere else? Bearing in mind my only research is the petzl website and its either quickclip or freelock...

As for the pick, it says the blueice one is fine for everything I want to use it for although since starting in this game a "B" rated pick was only really for ice climbing... I don't want to dry tool so don't think I need the "T" equivalent but your experience says...??

In reply to ligemidio: My Saf-lock leashes are an old (but great) model. The Freelock leash is very basic, but should be ok. The B rated pick is absolutely fine, it does bend a little when jammed in cracks. I would be happy to make and fit some of my 'jamie' grips to your new axes if you're ever this way (Fort William) as they've made a big difference to their handling. Another interesting point is the spike - bare aluminium - I imagined it would wear down quickly, but it's a tough alloy and is very hard-wearing.

In reply to Jamie Hageman:

That would be great, I will of course have to be in scotland sometime this winter to try them out and pointy mountains turn me on more than plateauxy ones... (as in Fort Bill vs Aviemore) thinking i might like to try them naked first but if youre about when im up there that offer would be much appreciated thank you.

Saf-locks still Petzl then? What replaced them? Rudimentary Google searches comes up with very little of any use...

In reply to ligemidio:


Charlet Moser and Petzl joined forces fairly recently, and the Saf'Lock was a Charlet product, so google image charlet saf'lock and you'll get something. The nice thing about them is they lock around the wrist. They do crop up on ebay now and then, and worth looking for.

As for trying them naked, probably something you do in the privacy of your own home.

Jamie

I think if you're planning on Scottish Winter climbing, you really want the T rated pick - you probably won't be climbing pure ice fall, but also hooking round rocks and things.

In reply to KeithAlexander: I disagree. The B pick (that comes as standard on the Aztarex) is perfectly fine. If you are a big chap, climbing a lot of higher-end mixed, then I can see the T pick holding up to more abuse, but for all other scenarios it's not a problem, and as they're £30 a piece, I'd just go with B picks.

In reply to ligemidio: Can thoroughly recommend self amagamating tape over grip tape. You can get it from a good electrical supplier like RS or maplin. It doesn't seem sticky when you put it on, but as the name suggests it sticks to itself forming a solid rubber coating on the shaft protecting it and providing more grip. It doesn't roll up when you plunge either so no worries there. It's what Petzl sharlet sell for the job only they supply it in a miniscule amount for 5 quid a roll. You can get enough to do all the axes you'll ever own for 10 quid from Maplins...

In reply to mike kann: Excellent! Good tip, thanks

In reply to ligemidio:

My axes came. They feel nice. I am happy.

In reply to ligemidio:

Have a look at the Petzl Sum'tec

See http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/classic-mountaineering-ice-axes/sumtec

In reply to Ron Walker:

Thanks, except the sum'tec is a classic mountaineering axe and has no hammer friend and the aztarex pair are for technical mountaineering.... which is why they are lying on my bed at the moment!! When my Cirque gives up though...