/ NEWS: VIDEO: Kev Shields soloing Firestone - E7

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UKC News - on 24 Sep 2009
[Kev Shields approaching the midway point on the solo of Firestone, E7, 2 kb]A video of Kev Shield's remarkable solo ascent of Firestone - a protectionless E7 slab climb on Hells Lum in the Cairngorms. What makes it extra specila is that Kev has no fingers on his left hand.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49430
Pids - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

outstanding piece of climbing

and good to hear that you can take a boy out of Ayrshire but.......
petellis - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to Pids:

Though it was hilarious when he fell off and the swearing started. Very funny but it wouldn't have been if he was higher up.

I quite like the look of the route though.
jkarran - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

The mantle onto the angle change must be pretty harrowing without both hands, the lip is slopey as hell but you do fair pull on it. I guess the rest of the route is ideally suited though having only one 'hold' in 12m.

jk
tony on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to Pids:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> outstanding piece of climbing
>
> and good to hear that you can take a boy out of Ayrshire but.......

I think he's been taking elocution lessons ....

Top stuff. Be interesting to see what he gets up to next - hard to imagine he's going to stop now he's achieved his ambition of E7
Durbs on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to tony:

Nice climb :)

It got me wondering, on a "hold-less" wall i.e. palm smears the entire way, what's the steepest slab you could get up, within current rock-shoe capabilities?
petellis - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to Durbs:

Probably pretty steep on a wall of 40 grit sandpaper. 50 degrees?

Google should give you links to research where they test rock shoes aganst one another by increasing the angle till the shoes let go. That will give you some idea.
AlH - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:Nice one Kev, thought you hadn't been hanging around in my cellar for a few days! Al
Bill Davidson - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to AlH:

Will it be coming out with sub-titles?
AlH - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to Bill Davidson: Maybe a pre water shed version :-) ?
Bill Davidson - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to AlH:

I was kinda hoping the gentle, lilting highland intonation might have been an influence...
billy no-mates - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Is he not doing a presentation at Glasgow Uni tonight?
jkarran - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to Durbs:

> It got me wondering, on a "hold-less" wall i.e. palm smears the entire way, what's the steepest slab you could get up, within current rock-shoe capabilities?

Depends very much on the rock, it'll be pretty steep on good grit. Firestone is somewhat akin to walking up a stone chipped windscreen... for 12m.

jk
Erik B - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: absolutely brilliant! Kev is an inspiration to us all. The ascent of the summer for sure!!
TomPR - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Nice one Kev! Glad you got your E7
Matt Fry - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to Durbs:

> It got me wondering, on a "hold-less" wall i.e. palm smears the entire way, what's the steepest slab you could get up, within current rock-shoe capabilities?

I'd imagine this is getting close:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqOMWHOIqf0

The Angels Share E8 7a (font 7c) at Black Rocks in the Peak.
petellis - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to boulderingmatt:

What a poser.
hwackerhage - on 24 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Cheers Kev! Five grades above my top lead grade. Makes me feel that I am the one with the dis-[or lack of]ability! Let's have another Prozac!
bomb on 24 Sep 2009 - host86-175-5-253.wlms-broadband.com
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome.
Wee Davie - on 25 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Brilliant stuff!
ads.ukclimbing.com
fishy1 - on 25 Sep 2009
In reply to jkarran: How steep actually is it, roughly? At one point in that video it looks almost vertical, but I suspect that's the camera.

And do you reckon any ice (I realise it'll be extremely thin) would form on it in winter?
jkarran - on 25 Sep 2009
In reply to fishy1: Hard to say really, there's nothing horizontal or vertical nearby to judge against but it is very slabby, maybe 50 degrees +-.

Yeah, I'm sure the slab ices up but it's not a suitable winter line, you'd risk damaging a good summer line for a short and sh*t winter one nestled at the foot of an excellent and established winter crag.

jk
gaz.marshall - on 25 Sep 2009
In reply to fishy1:
It might form a wee ice trickle very early season but it banks out and becomes totally obscured with snow later on.
Might be the only E7 you can ski down!
Trigoc - on 25 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

What an excellent vid. Good effort. I like how this piece captures how climbing can take over. I trained/prepared for an alps trip recently (although climbing at a much lower grade) and found it totally took over all my thoughts in a similar way to that described by Kev.

Also he totally nails the elation at fulfilling a long term goal and the realisation that this feeling won't last long before the next target is set.

Finally I love the footage of him on the route. It really captures the essence of climbing.
mgeek - on 25 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:
pretty inspiring ticking! nice one!
catt on 25 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Pure baws oot man. Nutter.
MorganPreece - on 25 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: Nice one Kev, Protectionless and holdless by the looks of it!

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