/ NEWS: VIDEO: Kev Shields soloing Firestone - E7
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49430
outstanding piece of climbing
and good to hear that you can take a boy out of Ayrshire but.......
Though it was hilarious when he fell off and the swearing started. Very funny but it wouldn't have been if he was higher up.
I quite like the look of the route though.
The mantle onto the angle change must be pretty harrowing without both hands, the lip is slopey as hell but you do fair pull on it. I guess the rest of the route is ideally suited though having only one 'hold' in 12m.
> outstanding piece of climbing
> and good to hear that you can take a boy out of Ayrshire but.......
I think he's been taking elocution lessons ....
Top stuff. Be interesting to see what he gets up to next - hard to imagine he's going to stop now he's achieved his ambition of E7
Nice climb :)
It got me wondering, on a "hold-less" wall i.e. palm smears the entire way, what's the steepest slab you could get up, within current rock-shoe capabilities?
Probably pretty steep on a wall of 40 grit sandpaper. 50 degrees?
Google should give you links to research where they test rock shoes aganst one another by increasing the angle till the shoes let go. That will give you some idea.
Will it be coming out with sub-titles?
I was kinda hoping the gentle, lilting highland intonation might have been an influence...
Is he not doing a presentation at Glasgow Uni tonight?
Depends very much on the rock, it'll be pretty steep on good grit. Firestone is somewhat akin to walking up a stone chipped windscreen... for 12m.
Nice one Kev! Glad you got your E7
I'd imagine this is getting close:
The Angels Share E8 7a (font 7c) at Black Rocks in the Peak.
What a poser.
Cheers Kev! Five grades above my top lead grade. Makes me feel that I am the one with the dis-[or lack of]ability! Let's have another Prozac!
And do you reckon any ice (I realise it'll be extremely thin) would form on it in winter?
Yeah, I'm sure the slab ices up but it's not a suitable winter line, you'd risk damaging a good summer line for a short and sh*t winter one nestled at the foot of an excellent and established winter crag.
It might form a wee ice trickle very early season but it banks out and becomes totally obscured with snow later on.
Might be the only E7 you can ski down!
What an excellent vid. Good effort. I like how this piece captures how climbing can take over. I trained/prepared for an alps trip recently (although climbing at a much lower grade) and found it totally took over all my thoughts in a similar way to that described by Kev.
Also he totally nails the elation at fulfilling a long term goal and the realisation that this feeling won't last long before the next target is set.
Finally I love the footage of him on the route. It really captures the essence of climbing.
pretty inspiring ticking! nice one!
Pure baws oot man. Nutter.
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