/ NEWS: Bam Bam Repeat for McHaffie

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UKC News - on 28 Sep 2009
[James McHaffie in Madagascar, 2 kb]Another week, another onsight repeat of a loose E8 on Craig Dorys! This time it is James McHaffie who took up the challenge, "Good climbing. Obviously a bit loose." was his statement after the ascent.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49482
Jeff25 - on 28 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Good effort. Good to see people are getting on it and giving the OS a go.

Interesting comment regarding the grade. Will the route ever 'firm up' in terms of looseness or is it the nature of the crag that theyll always be this way?
David Peters - on 28 Sep 2009
In reply to UKC News: From the report of the first Ascent :-

Physically speaking the route is reckoned to be about F7c


From the James Macaffie report :-

James continued: Physically it felt like 7a+


Is this the full hour argument or just the five minutes ...

Always here to pour petrol on troubled inferno's ;-)
gabriel_m on 28 Sep 2009
In reply to David Peters:
I wonder if there'll be a Walk of Life level of comment retracting.
AJM - on 28 Sep 2009
In reply to David Peters:

"if it were solid it would get E4 5c" as well...! Mind you that hardly ties up with 7a+ that well either does it, that should be more than E4 most of the time?
Morgan Woods - on 28 Sep 2009
In reply to David Peters:

was this also Jack's first E8, onsight or otherwise?


i do think also that most of us will take grades on such loose cliffs as being more open to interpretation than on your average solid crag.
Paz - on 29 Sep 2009
In reply to AJM: E4 6b/6c=7a+
shark - on 29 Sep 2009
In reply to Paz: Re-read his post - "Most of the time"
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In reply to UKC News: Nice work Caff!!

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