UKC

Troll Wall

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 centurion05 11 Oct 2009
I've been looking at the troll wall online for some time now and i'm wondering if its climbable or not, i've heard it is horribly loose, with the rimmon route fallen down.

centurion05
 Tom Valentine 11 Oct 2009
In reply to centurion05:
Tony Howard is an occasional poster - he might know.
In reply to tom valentine: It is climbable, Rimmon route has been reclimbed after the rock falls. But is serious.

The french route was climbed free this year by Sindre Sæther...

In general the left hand side of the wall is "safer" with regards to objective danger, but generally pretty high grades..
In reply to Daniel Armitage: French route gets Norwegian 8- and was climbed over 2 days 7/8 August this year. By Sindre and Ole Johan Sæther...
OP centurion05 11 Oct 2009
In reply to centurion05:

thanks dan, ive seen Sindre Sæther climb in lofoten, he's a machine
In reply to centurion05: Indeed. French 7b climbing on big walls with big approaches, poor rock and serious commitment... Respect!
 hillman 11 Oct 2009
In reply to centurion05:
The rockfalls was in the sentral part of the Troll Wall, with the Rimmond route and the Swedish route affected, The Rimmond route the most affected.

The Swedish route is just altered in the 12th pitch, and lots of loose rocks on the ledges in the lower part. It has been freeclimbed after the rockfalls, and the technical grade is unchanged. But not recommended at present state.

The Rimmond route was seriously changed by the rockfalls, but it has been climbed, though but not freeclimbed. Several pitches up to grade A6 on loose rock. Most of the lower part of the route is altered, only the top is intact.

This situation has redirected the efforts to other parts of the wall. The Norwegian route is now climbed several times each year, now even totally in free, by Sindre Sæther. The French route has been freeclimbed at grade F7c by Sindre Sæther (he is capable of F8c)and his father Ole Johan Sæther.

Other routes to the left has also been climbed i.e. Baltica, Suser gjennom Harryland.

And on the left side of the Troll Wall you'll find the Trollryggen route, with pretty safe rock and a more moderate technical grade at F6a, but it has more challenge in routefinding. And some 60-70 pithes, the longest rock route in Europe.

More info on the wall: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-troll-wall-stands and http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP04/climbing-notes-gael
OP centurion05 11 Oct 2009
In reply to hillman:

>
> The Rimmond route was seriously changed by the rockfalls, but it has been climbed, though but not freeclimbed. Several pitches up to grade A6 on loose rock. Most of the lower part of the route is altered, only the top is intact.
>

A6????? what the hell are you aiding on? Sandpaper, hope and dreams???
 Ztephan 11 Oct 2009
In reply to centurion05:
Isn't A5 when no runners will hold a fall, and A6 when even belays will only hold bodyweight?
 hillman 11 Oct 2009
In reply to centurion05: Sorry, keybord error. Should be A3.
 Ian Parsons 11 Oct 2009
In reply to hillman:

Ah.... You've got one of those "old wave" keyboards!

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