/ ARTICLE: Eternal Flame - Trango Tower by Alex & Thomas Huber
Eternal Flame is one of the most famous and classic rock climbs in the world. First climbed in 1989 by the legendary German team of Wolfgang Güllich and Kurt Albert, it has become one of the 'ultimate ticks' in world climbing.
This is the story of the first free ascent, told by Thomas and Alexander and accompanied by superb photographs.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2143
What a great write up - totally absorbing !
"But our stream of luck seems to run out fast. A short time later I am hanging from the bolt that Pou placed, trying to perform what Iker had prophesied to be “ningun problema“ for us. "No chance!", I say to Thomas, who had just hopefully chirped up to me our optimistic "Geht scho = It'll go!" Nothing will go! Nothing at all. Do I lack the Iker-power? Frustrating minutes pass before I suddenly realize: There in front of me is only one knife edge and not two as Iker Pou had reported. Where the second one should be, is a pale grey spot in the toast coloured granite. Shit. The hold is gone. Hopeless. One thing is certain: It is not more than a metre that is missing, but I cannot climb it.
But didn't Hansjörg say something like "it looks possible"? He can't have meant the Pou-Boulder! You have to position your oculars not further than ten centimetres from its minute features to identify the holds as such. So I set out to search for an alternative, and – lo and behold! – find my chance further to the right. A fine crack and a hidden dihedral. Not easy, and by no means a piece of cake. But the emerging 5.13d at least doesn't throw me off. “Wish you were here“, Wolfgang Güllich certainly would have been thrilled at the way we struggled with his masterpiece! "
Great stuff and some fantastic photos!
great stuff. Huber's stuff...
Elsewhere on the site
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
At a bar in Llanberis an old man chimed in And I thought he was out of his head Being a young man I just laughed it off When... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more