UKC

Mississippi varient direct rockfax

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 stayfreejc 15 Oct 2009
Just a quick question. When you step up to reach the sloping hold on the crux of mississippi varient direct is it off route to use the foothold to the left to get up onto the ledge? The reason I ask is that rockfax show the route going slightly more direct but when I climbed it this seemed quite an obvious move as there is a crack directly above that you can pull up on. Just curious really.
 lowersharpnose 15 Oct 2009
OP stayfreejc 15 Oct 2009
In reply to lowersharpnose: I made this move then moved left slightly to get on the ledge.
 sutty 16 Oct 2009
In reply to jamiegoscote:

Go direct up the face avoiding holds on routes to the left. That is what I did on the FA, it is just a short difficult problem anyway and I never bothered recording it. Interesting that two people have claimed it, both of whom saw me do it.
Main problem was the reach for me on slopers, my feet just followed somehow.
I nicknamed it Raspberry ripple, to blow at Tom and Bill.
 Hat Dude 16 Oct 2009
In reply to sutty:

> Main problem was the reach for me on slopers, my feet just followed somehow.

Good to know I did it in traditional style!
 Offwidth 16 Oct 2009
In reply to sutty: lol
 MG 16 Oct 2009
In reply to jamiegoscote: I thought it was on route. However on getting my foot on it I got cramp in my leg and fell off, which was quite spectacular.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 16 Oct 2009
In reply to jamiegoscote:

The line marked in the Bible is the one line, the true line, the only line!

http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/70027495


Chris

;-p
 sutty 16 Oct 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:

That is it. Step up and long reach, and hope you don't fall off on the next move.

I originally did it from the original route, traversing in to that place as was just wondering if it would go. Someone had done the bottom bit, which is easy before and then backed off I found out about ten years later.
 Michael Hood 18 Oct 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs: Chris I'm surprised at you - that photo is labelled "Mississippi Buttress Direct" - what's happened to "Variant"

Nice photo if you want some beta on it though.

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