UKC

You might guess how many years I've been climbing for if I tell you that I still use Asolo Canyons. They've been resoled several times, and though I've thought of upgrading, when I do shop-fit trials I'm appalled at the new toe-scrunching styles. I also have a pair of Scarpa Superatz (my performance shoes!) which give acknowledged advantage on steep walls. These old shoes attract a bit of attention at the crag, and I am frequently told I would climb harder if I got modern; but at what sacrifice to comfort, how significant an improvement; could it make the difference of a whole grade?

In reply to griffon: If you can be bothered to put up with a little pain you most likely will see an improvement from wearing new boots, whether this will make you climb harder is endlessly debatable.

It really depends how motivated you are to climb harder. If youve been working some nails project for the past 5 years, devote every waking moment of your life thinking about said project and train religiously for it a new pair of boots is probably a good idea. If you go climbing because you enjoy being out in the hills and climbing good routes you'll get less of a boost from a new pair of boots.

In reply to griffon:


Why not get some comfy-ish rock shoes? Maybe something from 5.10's "vertical mileage" range?

http://www.fiveten.com/

In reply to griffon:

Try something like 5.10 Spires. Might not make you climb any better, but should get you up anything the Canyons did. Not toe-scrunching at all, and altogether more comfortable IMHO...

I gave my Canyons away to a museum last year!

In reply to griffon:

The "general purpose summer mountaineering boot" does not seem to exist - you know, where you can wear them all day in complete comfort.

When I went to buy my latest, I said "I want some boots I can walk twenty miles in and climb up to about severe" and the bloke in the shop said "Sir, you need two pairs of boots for that"

I never used to need two pairs of boots!

Y.

In reply to griffon: There are some good comfortable shoes out there. You just need to look around, try lots on and see what suits your feet.

I use Evolv Defy velcros which I find great.

In terms of performance, I climb E3+ trad regularly in them and 7b sport. As for comfort I happily climbed 23 pitches on the American Direct in them last month. Admittedly, they did feel a bit uncomfortable towards the end of the 4 hours of abseiling back down but wearing any rockshoes for 15 hours is asking a lot!

I was slightly amused that my two partners both had to take 2 pairs of shoes - a performance pair and a comfort pair. One even took trainers specifically for the abseil back down.

In reply to griffon:

Thanks to all for suggestions. Fortunately, my old boots are still doing well so I'm not in a hurry to shelve them. Is anyone bold enough to express the advantage of latest boot technology in terms of climbing grade; eg. could a 5a climber suddenly find themselves competent on 5b rock?

In reply to griffon: Depends entirely on the route type or rock type. You would definitely find yourself climbing smeary 5b slabs with more ease, but I doubt you would notice much difference on vertical blocky rock.

In reply to Mark Stevenson:


I've got a pair of these and I too find them very comfortable.

The trick to avoiding foot pain misery is buying shoes that fit, it's simple really. And most designs do improve a little with time as they soften. The shop trial fit is usually the worst they'll feel.

OP: If you can climb fine in your current shoes then why not stick with them, do they actually feel like they're holding you back? I'm guessing you've had modern rubber fitted with each resole anyway. If the fit suits you and the rubber is ok then I doubt you'll see a big improvement from a new pair.

I think my hardest problems have all been done in a floppy dog-eared pair of Pinks that my toes poke out of. My friend has an ancient pair of shoes with more holes than your average sieve, he still cruises E5 in them. Shoes are important but not that important.

jk

In reply to jkarran:

If I were to to be analytical on this subject, it would go as follows:

Climbing below E1 (approx); prioritise comfort, any rockboot will do with sng fit.

Above E1, climbing slabs and less technical overhanging rock; old boots work fine. The difference comes (when I note disadvantage) on vertical faces with small pocket toeholds or edges. At such times (less than 20% of my outings) the suffrance of toes cramped into a tight point could relieve strain on the arms, and make for success, with potential improvement of half a grade (ie. 6c in lieu of 6b+).

I have been witness to too many friends who have suffered and or dropped out of climbing due to misguided shop assistants propelled by fashion. And thats even before they arrive at VS! Still, I suppose the suppliers have won because boots were sold ...

In reply to Mark Stevenson:

23 raps in 4 hours? You must have been slick.

To the OP: not used Defy's, they don't fit me, but have seen a mate climb 8a in them.

If you have wide feet, as I do, 5.10 Galieo are a good alternative.

23 raps in 4 hours as three?? F*ck me that is slick.