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Topic - NEW ARTICLE: VIDEO: Ben Heason on Order of the Phoenix E8

UKC Articles - on 19 Oct 2009
[Wimberry central section. Is there anywhere to compare with this for hard trad?, 3 kb]

At the end of September, Miles Gibson climbed a new gritstone E9 at Wimberry. Whilst Miles concentrated on his new line, his climbing partner Ben Heason managed a rare repeat of the hard route Order of the Phoenix (E8 6c) at the same crag.

Speaking about the route Ben said:

"Physically it's the most sustained hard grit route I've done so far with no particularly easy moves on it. The climbing is highly technical, often with tenuous footholds and a crux slap up the arÍte from a 1-finger pebble (by which time the gear/rope is redundant), culminating with taking a small pebble in each hand to make a super high step to a smeary top-out."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2152

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