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What approach shoe to get...

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 SuperstarDJ 21 Oct 2009
I'm looking to get some approach shoes that I'll mostly use for scrambling and maybe walking in good weather or shorter strolls when boots seem overkill. Ideally, I'd be able to climb multi-pitch VS (ambitious for me!) in them and also wear them for 12 hour days in the hills, but I know these are two opposing aims!

I'm looking in particular at the...

Five Ten Guide Tennie
Five Ten Camp 4
Scarpa Quest
Scarpa Zen
Nepa Outdoor Spider X

Anyone want to rave about any of these or have any major problems with them?

Are there some others I should be looking at?

Thanks in advance,

David
In reply to SuperstarDJ: La Sportiva Gandalf look great especially for climbing.
 cathsullivan 21 Oct 2009
In reply to SuperstarDJ:

I've got some scarpa zen's and they're good for scrambling because they have quite a stiff sole and narrow toe. I've worn them for fairly long days and they're comfortable enough (although to begin with they used to hurt the top of my foot a bit as the uppers seem a bit unforgiving).
 Phil Anderson 21 Oct 2009
In reply to SuperstarDJ:

I've got an old-ish pair of the five tennies and love them. Very comfortable even when worn all day, and happy climing up to Sev in them (normally climb HS / VS). I find them excellent for scrambling too.

I haven't tried any on the others though, so can;t really compare.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 21 Oct 2009
In reply to SuperstarDJ:

Major impressed with the Camp 4s

http://www.outside.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/4193||~@c~Approach~Shoes~@b|...

Been using 5.10 for years, though build quality was often a bit suspect. These have been great, I am going to buy an extra pair to put away!

Chris
 Michael Ryan 21 Oct 2009
In reply to SuperstarDJ:

If you are getting an approach shoe for walking as well as scrambling, and doing VS's and wearing all day I think some of what you suggest are not suitable...apart from the Scarpa Zen and Five Ten Camp 4.

The others do not have a rocker or a lug, a rocker helps when walking, rather than a flat sole found on the Guide Tennie, Nepa, and Quest........also these shoes have a dot tread sole, horrendous on wet grass.

You need a good lug sole in the UK which both the Five Ten Camp 4 (and the Prodigy) and Scarpa Zen have.

I have had a couple of pairs of Five Ten Prodigy's which I found excellent for walking, superb for scrambling (did Tower Ridge in the rain wearing them) and have followed up to E2 in them.

Mick
 Lizard 21 Oct 2009
In reply to SuperstarDJ:

I'm about to invest in my 3rd pair of Five Ten Guide Tennie- so comfortable and amazing on rock but as already mentioned comical on grass that's even slightly wet.
 jkarran 21 Oct 2009
In reply to SuperstarDJ:

I've currently got a pair of Boreal Flyers, probably the best approach shoe / outdoorsy trainer I've had. They're no rock shoe but climbing up to about 5a seems perfectly reasonable and they're comfortable to walk in (not sure I could do 12hr days in them but I couldn't do 12hr days in anything). I'll be getting another pair when these are worn out.

http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=27_99&products...

jk
 sandy 21 Oct 2009
In reply to SuperstarDJ: I'd add another vote for the camp 4's. I spent a week walking in NW Scotland in them earlier this year including a couple of scrambles. I've used them as a general cragging shoe and other than not being very waterproof (I used waterproof socks in Scotland), and not being quite as good as a full on boot on muddy steep ground, I can't fault them.

I've tried loads of different types of walking boots over the years and for the first time ever after a weeks walking my feet had no blisters... I normally end up with at least one on my heels no matter what type of boot/sock/lacing system I use...

Andy
OP SuperstarDJ 21 Oct 2009
In reply to All:

Thanks to all who replied - top stuff. I'm off up to 'Outside' on Friday where I'll make a choice between the Five Ten Camp 4 and Scarpa Zen, depending on fit.

Cheers!

David.
 neilh 21 Oct 2009
In reply to SuperstarDJ:
I use a pair of Next trainers which I got in a sale 2 years ago, and are perfectly adequate.
 AlH 21 Oct 2009
In reply to SuperstarDJ: Another vote for La Sportiva Gandalf. Own Zens and have owned 5.10 Guide Tennie. In terms of climbability the Zens aren't in the same league, in terms of durability the 5.10s wore out far too quick for me.
I've used the shoes on wet severes, more ascents of Tower Ridge this summer than I care to remember, 18 days in the rain on the Cuillin and they are the only shoes I've had stick to wet basalt. The toe is rock shoe shaped, the sole the stiffest I've had in approach show and the build quality superb. I'll be on the Ben tomorrow and I know what will be on my feet.
Al

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