UKC

Hey, im starting to build up my rack in a slightly haphazard way. I've bought some nuts and cams, just about to get some hexes, but don't know what to rack them on. I was going to use prowires as they're pretty cheap, would that work ok? Also does every hex/cam need its own krab - would this be useful? I'm trying to get into trad climbing in general, doing single pitch at the minute, but looking to do multipitch in future.

Another kit related question - im using a DMM bug thats got a fair amount of scratches on it from where ive carried it on my hip when climbing - will this damage the rope?

Lastly, i'm pretty new to climbing. Does it go on throughout the winter (besides "winter" climbing) - is it still possible to climb single pitch etc in cold/wet conditions? I'm just thinking that it must be hard to climb well with cold hands on wet rock.

Many thanks
Ian

In reply to eeonz:
Ian
It is usual to rack cams and hexes together on one crab - that is - 3 big boy hexes on one crab and the 4 smaller ones on another, assuming you'll have a set of 7 WC hexes. Cams are similar, 3 smallest on one crab, couple of mediums on another and a couple of the big ones on another. This way you can disribute the weight around your harness and when placing a piece, you can grab the crab that has the most size options for the give crack etc.
I choose to use WC Oxygen crabs for racking as they have a 'clean nose' so the gear doesn't snag when you unclip from the crabs.
Some cams (DMM) have a double sling fixed to them so they carry short but onece place, the sling can be pulled through and extended. This means you can carry each cam with its own crab and dispense with a quickdraw if you want. For climbing Grit this would be very useful as you tend to know what cams you'll be needing before leaving the ground.
Its prob best to take ideas from other climbers and use the bits you like the sound of and develop your own racking system. Once you settle on it, its great when you are gripped with fear and reach for the 'green' cam that you know lives next to the yella' and blue one that are racked on the Oxygen crab with the red gate on the second loop back on the right!

In reply to eeonz:

Get your self a set of the DMM Torque Nuts and buy either DMM Phantoms or Spectres (the colour coded ones) and colour code them. Personally I rack them individually, one hex per krab, blue TN to blue krab etc. You can however bunch them up if you want, but it's considerably more faff. I also split the nuts as well, 1-6s on one krab and 7-11 on another. You can often get away without having to use a quickdraw with the TNs quite a lot of the time as you can extend the sling out a reasonable distance. You can also colour code the WC Hexcentrics, but I've found the Torque Nuts (for me as a beginner) have saved me having to buy so many quickdraws.

And yes you can do 'normal' rock climbing through the winter, but obviously not as much due to weather and light. It also helps to go somewhere that dries quickly.

Also I've found that it's worth buying the very best you can afford even if it means you don't get everything straight away. Your rack will last you along time, so you might as well get the best lightest stuff you can afford.

In reply to eeonz:

Some people gather cams and/or hexes on the same racking krab, others prefer to have each on it's own. There is no right or wrong way and there are pros and cons to each. Experiment - find out what works for YOU.

Hard to comment on your belay device without having seen it, but heavy scratches might well accelerate wear on a rope's sheath, especially if you are doing lots of lowering and/or abseiling. Unless it constitutes a sharp edge it's not going to part it though.

There's plenty of places where you can climb throughout the winter, given a nice day. You might have to wrap up a bit more, and expect cold hands at times, but if you pick your crag (south-facing, quick-drying, not too high up) you can get a day in.

Bon chance with your climbing journey.

In reply to eeonz:


Prowires are a very good cheap light krab. Personally I like one per cam but rack 3 or 4 hexes on one krab. Means you can place the cams rapidly and less risk of dropping them as you only ever have one in your hand. Hexes I tend to place from low stress positions so I'm less worried about speed and fumbling.


Scratches are normal but if there's raised burrs you need to rub them off. Basically, if it doesn't hurt your skin it shouldn't hurt your rope.


Yes, you can climb through the winter but you need to pick your days and wrap up warm. I wouldn't bother with rainy days, windy days or wet rock. Getting organised and taking hat, gloves and a hot drink makes all the difference!

jk