UKC

NEWS: VIDEO: Repeat of Sleepy Rave, Font 8C, Grampians, Australia

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 UKC News 04 Nov 2009
[James Kassay repeating Sleepy Rave Font 8C, 3 kb]James Kassay has repeated Sleepy Rave (Font 8C) in the Hollow Mountain cave, Grampians, Australia.

The endurance boulder problem links three Font 8A+ problems together and is part of the very famous boulder problem The Wheel of Life (Font 8C+).

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=50170

 Morgan Woods 04 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

great effort....i'm guessing this just has a slightly different start to WOL as the finish for each seems the same:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=575
 Scarab9 04 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:
can't get the second vid to play in work (crap computers) but the first one's fantastic!
 Morgan Woods 04 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

also keep in mind you can't shake out properly on the "rests" because your hand will hit the ground ;p
 catt 04 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Cool video, he made it look effortless. Actually looks like a line too unlike similar style stuff in Wales and the Ali Baba cave.
In reply to UKC News:

That is phenominal...perpetual motion,he looks so smooth...arms like matchsticks too, if only.
 AndyM-LVB 04 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

That's one of the most impressive climbing performances I've seen, his footwork is amazing.

He's my new hero...
 alx 04 Nov 2009
Why is this V15 when you have routes like Ali-Hulk that are F9b? I know that apart from the end he not more than 6ft off the ground but surely the whole concept of bouldering is about the single hardest moves you can pull on rock, not how much stuff near your limit you can you do.

Other than that this video is a flawless display of poise, technique and grit, nice!
Musique 04 Nov 2009
Amazing stuff. Quality. Real Quality.
 Trigoc 05 Nov 2009
Nice rests...
 CurlyStevo 05 Nov 2009
In reply to alx:
what gave you that idea? There's plenty of boulder prolems that involve traverse etc where endurance plays a part.
 CurlyStevo 05 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:
Very impressive climbing, the speed and accuracy that this chap moves at is something else.
 La benya 05 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: this is the last part of an even longer and more impressive route called wheel of life... add a 7C+ sit start to this.... very impressive but i dont think this is a boulder problem, 8c route maybe?
 Michael Ryan 05 Nov 2009
In reply to mark_wellin:

boulder_route
 CurlyStevo 05 Nov 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I just don't get this you can't call something a lead/solo if it never leaves the ground by more than 4 metres.

All the risk is identical to a boulder problem. I personaly see no reason why a boulder problem traverse shouldn't involve more climbing than a lead/solo.
 Michael Ryan 05 Nov 2009
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Best not to get hung up with labels.... it's climbing, tis what it is.... the rock dictates the style as well a the climber.
 racodemisa 05 Nov 2009
In reply to alx: I have to disagree here.I do not think there should be a seperation.This problem is one of the best lines you will ever come accross-of its sort on a boulder.There seems to be a bias built up over time towards this sort of thing i suppose if people really need to refine and define M.Ryans comment is valid.
Read your history of bouldering though-John gill,Font locals doing traverses in the 50s-to present day,Hueco tanks some of the best problems there are more than 15 moves etc etc.Witness the fitness in the US surely thats getting towards the same length as WOL.
 racodemisa 05 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: Think its v12 to a v9 to v11 might be wrong though.
 chris_j_s 05 Nov 2009
In reply to mark_wellin:
> (In reply to UKC News) this is the last part of an even longer and more impressive route called wheel of life... add a 7C+ sit start to this.... very impressive but i dont think this is a boulder problem, 8c route maybe?

Sorry to be pedantic but I really don't think an 8C font grade would equate to an 8c french grade...

More like 9a/+ I'd have thought.

Either way who really cares - its a mega imressive bit of climbing.
 La benya 05 Nov 2009
In reply to chris_j_s: do any of the moves on that route look like they compare to moves on a short route, like action direct? i dont think so, its a funny kinda of thing, f*cking amazing whatever it is
 Reach>Talent 05 Nov 2009
In reply to mark_wellin:
It is certainly an impressive bit of climbing, whether or not you want to call it bouldering. Now the question is is this bouldering, certainly shorter in terms of number of moves and it is on a boulder

http://tubeguide.tv/video/rock-climbing/location/cacodemon-boulder
 CurlyStevo 05 Nov 2009
In reply to Reach>Talent:
that was really hard to work out initially after the fall, scary and confusing!

PS is it trad?
 Reach>Talent 05 Nov 2009
In reply to CurlyStevo:
I think it is bolted.
 jas wood 05 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:
jesus h was he on job and knock or what ! in between rests he was flying very very impressive.
 jabley 12 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Can't believe no-one's highlighted the massive chalkbag dab at 50 seconds...
 Adam Lincoln 12 Nov 2009
In reply to jabley:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Can't believe no-one's highlighted the massive chalkbag dab at 50 seconds...

No one is that anal. It doesn't help him in the slightest.


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