UKC

NEWS: Charlotte Durif: F8c+, F8c+, F8b+ And More

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 UKC News 06 Nov 2009
[Charlotte Durif making the first ascent of Pull Over, F8c+, 2 kb] 19-year-old French climber Charlotte Durif has hit an extra ordinary run of form.

The successful competition climber and former junior world champion has in the last couple of weeks climbed the first ascent of The Wall (F8c+) at Combe la Vielle, and also grabbed the first ascent of Pull Over (F8c+) at Grotte de Galetas in the Verdon area of France.



Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=50192
 catt 06 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Strong lass. Cracking photo too, looks an amazing route!
 Owen W-G 06 Nov 2009
In reply to catt:

Really brilliant photo
 Morgan Woods 06 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

the verdon link up sounds mega!
 Lurkio 06 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

> The grade of The Wall was confirmed just a few days later when it had its first repeat at the hands of the young Frenchman Geoffray De Flaugergues.

Saw Geoffray in action at the EYS at Ratho. He was absolutely amazing. 8c+, and he's only 14. He'll go far, that lad!
 Jack Geldard 06 Nov 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods: I totally agree.

It is really interesting what is possible on these 'multi-pitch' routes, with a long rope - not unlike Steve Crowe's effort on Malham.

For Charlotte to do that route in the Verdon onsight is simply phenomenal and could pave the way for more of the same. This removal of 'pitches' isn't new (think Yuji going ledge to ledge on El Cap) and also if you think of the speed ascents of El Cap (climbers simul climbing a few metres apart).

Basically, climbing in it's current pitched form is limited by rope length and all the associated variables (friction, weight of gear etc). Hence why really old VDiffs traditionally have very short pitches.

Lets give Charlotte a 200m 6mm rope and a set of DMM revolvers! That's what I say!

Interesting stuff and clearly she is on amazing form. Congrats from me. I'm very impressed.

Jack

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 06 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

I pedalloed past that cave last Easter and wondered what was in there - astounding place!

http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/111671588


Chris
 Morgan Woods 06 Nov 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:

sounds like there's still loads of potential in the Verdon....from what i hear very few locals are active new routers with the exception of guys like Bruno Clement.
 Alun 06 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:
impressive climbing, and what an amazing photograph!
 gallam1 06 Nov 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Wouldn't a 6mm rope feel a bit thin, especially if there was 200m of it out? I suppose she is quite thin too though.
 The sharp end 06 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Verdon linkup onsight = totally utterly inspiring! Wow!
 JayK 06 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

What an effort. Great work.
 Bulls Crack 06 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Is this the first ascent of a route of this standard by identical triple quins?
In reply to Bulls Crack: ? Wut?

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