UKC

Are there any good climbing destinations in Germany as I can't find anything on UKC outside Baveria?

I will be spending a year there soon and need to chose where abouts i'd like to go.


Cheers,

Franco

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Don't think there is any major area outside of Frankenjura.
There are some very good sandstone areas near to French border (Pfalz) and also near to Czech border (Elbsandstein).

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Google 'Saechsische Schweiz', for the sandstone outcrops on the river Elbe, near Dresden. Plenty of hard stuff.

In reply to Franco Cookson:
>

Hey Franco if you are going to go there for a year you better learn how to spell it....Bavaria

In reply to Paul Bowen: Baveria is the non-anglicanised version isn't it?

In reply to Dave Warburton:

Bayern.

In reply to Dave Warburton:

I think it's either an Anglicism or it's Anglicised....
but know I think it's just spelt wrong

In reply to Paul Bowen: Dunno. Bayern is obviously right hence Bayern Munchen, but i'm fairly sure i've seen Baveria as well as Bavaria...

Bayern would probably be the best way but then people might not relate it to Bavaria/Baveria.

In reply to Dave Warburton:

Completely off subject I saw you were the last person on UKC to log Rockadictus at Pena Roja...I was there last week.. I found the top not a problem (i'm 6 2) it was the bottom bit I struggled on cranking from the big undercling.. my excuse was I had a really bad cold all week I was there.. made hard moves feel twice as hard!

This thread was started in the ROCKTALK forum and has now been moved.
Please could you try and post in the correct forum, it makes life easier for both users and moderators.

Rock Destinations - Rock climbing destinations Q&As. Interested in visiting a new rock climbing area? Having difficulties finding information? You are almost guaranteed that someone here will have been and can give you some pointers. It might be sun rock in Sardinia or sport routes in Switzerland. Where to stay, when to go, what routes to do.

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In reply to Paul Bowen: Looks like you had a nice week though. I thought that move was hard too! Especially as the hanger was spinning which put me off a bit. Lliberpool was a pretty nice line as well, well worth doing!

Did you not get to the Penon? It was the end of summer when we were there so stayed on the northface, but its an amazing bit of rock.
So much to go at climbing wise, but having non-climbing parents meant that we only really chose areas close to where we were staying at Javea.

I'll be back.

In reply to Paul Bowen: Yeh, Vampiro was a bit like that!!

In reply to Franco Cookson:
There is a complete guide to all the sport climbing areas in Germany with the relevant guide book details, crag info, map etc:

Deutchrock
Sportklettergebeite in Deutschland
by Timo Marschner and Martin Schepers
tmms verlag
ISBN 3-930650-17-7

And for the others, Bavaria is the Latinised version of the German `Bayern´.
Jim

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Garmish would be good - near some proper big stuff.

Chris

In reply to jimtitt:

I didn't think Franco was big into bolt clipping??.. possibly knotted slings on sandstone towers??

And for the others, Bavaria is the Latinised version of the German `Bayern´.

thank goodness for that!!

In reply to Paul Bowen:

He might not be into German beer, German girls and doing 150mph on the motorway as well but I´m sure a year here will sort him out!

In reply to all:

Thanks for the info. Especially the guidebook reference.

Rockadictos is a bit tricky.

and I don't know how to spell baveriong, weil man auf Deutsch Bayern sagt.

In reply to martin heywood:

Err.....I think the sandstone park on the German/Czech border is a "major area" by any standards. There are something around 20000 recorded climbs across the combined countries' parks. Should suit Franco with his Scugdale apprenticeship!

In reply to Franco Cookson:

There are also a couple of website covering the areas, the best one is from the DAV with an interactive map (which doesn´t seem to be working for me today)- http://www.dav-felsinfo.de/
Then there is this one which seems to work for some of the areas, mainly the more northern ones! -http://www.klettergebiete.info/

Jim

In reply to Franco Cookson:


It's a big country, so it does rather depend upon where you're going. If you're in the north, it's not good, but there are some nice outcrop crags in the Ith roughly between Hameln and Hildesheim.. There also a bit in the Harz mountains. And in the West there are some puddingstone crags west of Aachen area, in Belgium. There's also Freyr in Belgium (near Dinant) which is good.

In reply to Franco Cookson: Hello Franco, welcome back! Give us a shout next time you're in the Peak.

In reply to jimtitt, Chris, nniff: Thanks. Those websites were the kind of thing I was after

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Ok, I live in the middle of the Frankenjura, kind of between the two bigest areas - Franconian Switzerland, and the Altmühltal. I can assure you there's plenty to go at here - I would say in terms of amount of routes it's similar to the peak district, and in many ways it's similar - similar not-particularly-remote locations, similar lengths of routes etc. Of course it does have the major difference in that it's all limestone, and bolted (though it can be.... sporting.... in the lower grades). I've just bought the Franken 2 guidebook (there are two major guides for the North section (plus 1 "extreme"), and for the south), and it's great. It has the added advantage that it's bi-lingual. Topos are good, approaches and descriptions seem accurate and clear, it's great!

http://tinyurl.com/Franken1
http://tinyurl.com/Franken2

On the down side, this is in Bavaria too, but if it's climbing you're after, I think Bavaria would be your best bet. I popped down to the alps for a couple of days last week, it's about 2-2.5 hours from here by car (and that's only bimbling along at 75mph on the Autobahn bits), so very accessible. For the person who suggeted Garmisch - a good idea, but also in Bavaria.

Hope that's helpful, shout if I can give you any more help.

Tim

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Southern Palatinum (Süd-Pfalz) is a nice forested area with sand-stone towers and walls. Single and Multi-pitch trad and sport with interesting local ethics. The grading system icludes grades for jumps between towers or to get of bits.

A website on the area in German, but with a lot of photos:

http://www.palatinum.info/index.shtm

In reply to Green Porridge:

If I had the choice I'd choose Bavaria, but it's likely i'll just be plonked somewhere. I so hope im in den Alpen

In reply to Franco Cookson: let us know when you know where you will be and we can give you some more detailed advise. If you are interested in some very traditional climbing in Saxon Switzerland (Elbsandstein) have a look at teufelsturm.de

Cheers,
Mike