UKC

Read an article in the Saturday Torygraph mag about Leo Houlding when he was at El Cap last year. He said he'd bolted a badge from an Alpha Romeo on a blank bit of rock because there was no hold (no mention of the route in the article). He didn't do it straight away but discussed it with a group of local climbers first. Surely this is a bad as bolting, chipping etc, its the first time I've heard about it, flicked through a couple of back issues of OTE and found nowt, just surprised this didn't make as much noise as 'Jerry and pof' or doesn't anyone care what happens over there.
BTW should the climb be classed an aid, seeing as he was technically resting on gear?

In reply to Tim:
He mentioned it at his lecture at the kendal film fesival last year, apparently the climb was completely unclimbable without it. ie: totally blank between 2 cracks so he put it in, and apparently its still a 6c move. And yes it was classed as aid and he gave the route an A?(something hard anyway) grade as well as the route grade. It seemed like it was either use aid or the route was never going to go, which is abit different to using pof which damages potentially climbable stuff for others.

In reply to Matt: Point taken, I have a great deal of respect for Leo and his climbing ability but who's to say that another climber couldn't have done it maybe not today but in 5 - 10 years time. Surely there have been a few routes that people couldn't do but have left them for another generation.

In reply to Tim: Well, at least it wasn't the Flying Lady off a Rolls-Royce (that would have made it a lot easier).

In reply to Marc C: I suppose that's the next thread, what's the hardest car badge to crimp?

In reply to Tim: Whilst a bolt on hold is not a good thing and should never really happen, I think in this case it was well accepted, cos a) Leo had more than proven himself in the Valley, and if he said it was impossible, then it was, b) it was a wierd and wonderfull way of overcoming the problem.
Now don't you all start saying why should he be able to do it and not mortals trying E2's...cos I can't answer that, it just seems that in this case it was a flash of brilliance that opened a mega pitch, albeit on a route that is not yet completed!

In reply to Matt: That badge is quite well travelled, iirc - didn't he nick it off a Berghaus reps car, and then he had it stuck to the front of his helmet when he was in Norway with Andy Cave?

In reply to andy:
Yes, it was i think. Probably a gimmick to make his talk more interesting by pointing out this badge in various far flung places before bolting it to the route.- It worked as his talk was one of the best at the festival, and at least it was less of a gimmick than painting yourself gold, setting off the fire alarm and emptying a pool full of school kids.

In reply to andy:

You should never say that something's 'impossible', its a sure fire way of ensuring that someone else comes along a works out how to do it, ususally fairly quickly. Hasn't Tommy Caldwell freed the 'impossible' first pitch bolt ladder of the West Face of the Leaning Tower?

In reply to Tom:
I agree but then again it was only a 6 foot section of wall and i would assume they inspected it very well and if there was any holds or possibility of it going free then I'm sure they would have mentioned it?

In reply to Matt: I seem to rememeber it was Mr Cave that talked more about its previous life, rather than Leo.

Agree that he was one of the best (him and Andy C, I thought) - not seen the full lineup for this year yet - any ideas? Maybe they could get Kylie - she was blinding on Sunday.

In reply to andy:
Artistically or visually??

In reply to Matt: Bit of both, although I couldn't see very well from the back. Very much 'a show' as opposed to a gig (set dance routines and no room for spontaneity etc), but entertaining, nevertheless.

In reply to Tim:

I reckon that as a one-off gimmick an Alpha Romeo badge sounds like a bit of a laff - now if every Tom, Dick and Harry wanted a Alpha Romeo badge on their new VDiff, I'd say - oy, Tom, Dick, Harry ... NOOO!

In reply to Tim:
In reply to Marc C: I suppose that's the next thread, what's the hardest car badge to crimp?

Probably a Citroen - couple of slopers.
yes Im bored.

i think a lada or skoda badge would be worst, they're just pull right off...

[insert another cheep car joke here]

In reply to Tim: Ive got 2000 Alpha badges and i fancy a new line up El Cap.But wait a minute why not a large bolt on hold.Its Bollocks

In reply to Savage Henry:

Thin end of the wedge. Or badge? I have a nightmare with that rockover on Partheon Shot. Anyone mind if I epoxy a Nissan wheel hub up there? It could look nice gleaming in the sun. Or perhaps a caravan hook?

In reply to hindu:

It's the Jaguars and Volkswagens that fall apart these days. Skodas are sound mate.