UKC

jingo wobbly / rockfax

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pugsley 18 Nov 2009
Just received an email ref the new rockfax guide to Haute Provence i already have the Jingo guide Avignon as i used it last year on holiday, at Baume Rousse there is on the righthand side to the right of secter of L Eperon a large iron shaped slab roughly 100ft tall there are 2 climbs side by side Skirate and tyrex i clinbed both skirate is 4+ in jingo and 5+ in RF and Tyrex is 4 in jingo and 6b+ in RF i checked some of the other routes i climbed and there are descrepancies at Lou Passo and Dentelles De Montmiral anybody climbed the slab routes Skirate and tyrex whats your thoughts seems a big difference 4 to 6b+ maybe just a print error.
 Offwidth 18 Nov 2009
In reply to pugsley:

So what did you think the routes should be?
pugsley 18 Nov 2009
In reply to Offwidth:
To be honest i thought the JW grades, just wondered if any bodyelse had done these climbs and thought the Rockfax grades wrong i have only looked at a handfull of the routes i did.
 Morgan Woods 18 Nov 2009
In reply to pugsley:
doesn't jingo wobbly have some "eyeball" grades which is how hard the author reckons the climb looks? if so it is both a very lazy way of doing a guide plus may be the answer to the discrepancy.
 teflonpete 18 Nov 2009
In reply to pugsley:

I have climbed in that area but we used the locally produced guide pamphlets in which I found most of the grades to be about right to half a grade overgraded. Sorry not to be of more help.
 Offwidth 18 Nov 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Eyeball grades are more common than you'd think. Rockfax certainly have some in some of their guides but are at least honest about this... publish and get any corrected information into a future edition.
pugsley 18 Nov 2009
In reply to Offwidth:
thanks for that i would say the JW were nearer the mark than this new guide,well on the few routes i have done in these areas anyway, there is another route if JW called Abigail at Lou Posso aT 7A which felt spot on when i climbed but in the new rockfax its 6b no way is it 6b

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