UKC

tie in to anchor

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cellige 22 Nov 2009
Specially hanging anchors. Just wondering what most here do, do you build your anchor and do everything from the power point (tie in, hang atc, or run rope through if belaying off belay lope)? Or do you tie in seperately, on a possibly different anchor or second anchor on same protection?
 JoshOvki 22 Nov 2009
In reply to gaillard:

I tend to build my anchors, with one rope attached to me. Make a really big overhand with the other ropes, and clip my belay plate into that, then attach myself to the same place as my belay plate with a screw gate. It is hard to explain... sorry.

Of course this also depends on the situation etc.
cellige 22 Nov 2009
In reply to JoshOvki:

Haha ya I'm not sure I got that :P

Well ok the reason I was wondering, is because of the equalette (Longs). Lets say you build an equalette, or "Quad" (the two point equalette). If you have yourself clipped to the master point and then the atc that you are belaying off of clipped there as well, I would think that your weight would compromise the dynamic aspect of the equalette, which is why you built it in the first place?
In reply to gaillard: An equalette/cordlette or snake sling does not really have dynamic properties unless you made it out of climbing rope rather than static cord or tape. Even then it would be limited because of its short length. The reason you might use one would be to equalise the tension on multiple anchor points rather than to introduce any extra dynamic stretch into the system. I only use a cordlette if my second is not leading through as it makes the stance easier to manage. If he/she is leading the next pitch it is easier and quicker to equalise with the ropes and this does introduce some extra dynamics into the system.

Al

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