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Okay, its that time of year. Lets start the thread. It is warm and wet but it is going to get colder and the water might freeze.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Discussed briefly yesterday:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=382671&v=1#x5534380
Discussed briefly yesterday:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=382671&v=1#x5534380
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Just been told theres fresh snow on the hilltops around Machynlleth/Cadair Idris area. Any reports for northern Snowdonia?
In reply to MikeLell: Snow all over hills around Snowdon, looks very nice, but far from being 'in condition' i am afraid. Might get a photo up on my blog later today.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Soft and wet down to around 550m on Pumlumon this morning. But it's rained a bit since then so it's either thicker now or, more likely, gone...
Soft and wet down to around 550m on Pumlumon this morning. But it's rained a bit since then so it's either thicker now or, more likely, gone...
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
There's a covering of snow over the Beacons at the moment. Again, no idea how long it'll last. But it's nice to see anyway.
There's a covering of snow over the Beacons at the moment. Again, no idea how long it'll last. But it's nice to see anyway.
In reply to mattrm - at another PC:
snow cover looks thin from the road, supposed to put down some more tomorrow and then get colder according to MWIS.
Sounds filthy tomorrow.
snow cover looks thin from the road, supposed to put down some more tomorrow and then get colder according to MWIS.
Sounds filthy tomorrow.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Gonna head into Snowdonia mon & tues and hope to get something of interest done. certainly the forecasts are looking optimistic.
Will post here on my return.
Gonna head into Snowdonia mon & tues and hope to get something of interest done. certainly the forecasts are looking optimistic.
Will post here on my return.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Snow was down to Bethesda this morning. I went into the Carneddau and climbed the NE ridge of Yr Elen. Under the conditions it was a struggle. Deep power snow all the way to the summit, but enjoyable nonetheless. Finished over Carnedd Dafydd.
I'll get pics up soon.
I'll get pics up soon.
In reply to Touching Centauri: Few photos here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157622892666120/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157622892666120/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Just got back, snow was down to Pen y Pass this morning, good thing is, it didnt retreat to much during the day. We left in the dark and there is still a substantial covering on the tops for building.
Allan
Just got back, snow was down to Pen y Pass this morning, good thing is, it didnt retreat to much during the day. We left in the dark and there is still a substantial covering on the tops for building.
Allan
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Went up Y Garn and on to Glyder Fawr yesterday. There was a lot of fresh powder snow around, but as expected nothing consolidated for climbing.
Photos can be seen at http://www.flickr.com/rockcatch/
Went up Y Garn and on to Glyder Fawr yesterday. There was a lot of fresh powder snow around, but as expected nothing consolidated for climbing.
Photos can be seen at http://www.flickr.com/rockcatch/
In reply to Dr.Strangeglove:
Went up today. It was filthy. Very windy. Yup the cover is thin with a few little drifts. Had hoped it might slack off a bit, but it was grim the whole way up.
Went up today. It was filthy. Very windy. Yup the cover is thin with a few little drifts. Had hoped it might slack off a bit, but it was grim the whole way up.
In reply to mattrm: Ran up Elidir Fach and Fawr up through the quarries and down the 'tourist route' to Nant, grim sums it up. Nice enough climb, but the ridge was treacherous, unconsolidated powder over scree blocks. Very wet and slippy on the descent. Finished filthy after numerous slides.
Thawing quite a bit, but still snowing high up. But snow level has risen quite a bit. Probably about 600-650m at the moment.
Thawing quite a bit, but still snowing high up. But snow level has risen quite a bit. Probably about 600-650m at the moment.
Up Snowdon today. Early start. Above 650m it was a winter wonderland - whiteout, heavy snow, blizzard on the top. Lovely. Good cover. Reckon the Trinities were do-able.
Zig zags pretty slippy on the way down, with a few parties struggling (snow board boots not necessarily the best selection for the conditions). Back at the PYG, lots of thawing and quite heavy rain further down.
Zig zags pretty slippy on the way down, with a few parties struggling (snow board boots not necessarily the best selection for the conditions). Back at the PYG, lots of thawing and quite heavy rain further down.
In reply to badpants: Met Office predicts freezing level of 500 m and -2 at 900 m for tomorrow. I guess that's good news.
In reply to MikeLell: If that plays out, could be some routes to be had tomorrow.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:walked up corn du, pen y fan and cribyn today. Lots of snow above 600m. Fairly deep patches on craig cwm liwch and cynwyw. No views, blizzards and very slippery routes. Crampons would of been useful for descending. Overall had a great day if a bit wet!
In reply to MikeLell: Looks like at least a couple of days of cold.
In reply to badpants:
I thought the Trinity gullies needed the usual cycles of consolidation and freeze/thaw to make them doable? I certainly wouln't want to be floundering up a Grade I gully poorly filled with soft powder.
I thought the Trinity gullies needed the usual cycles of consolidation and freeze/thaw to make them doable? I certainly wouln't want to be floundering up a Grade I gully poorly filled with soft powder.
In reply to Only a hill: Saturday was glorious on Tryfan, still and cold, snowline was at about 500m, 2-3 ft of fresh snow on top. No ice around. Sunday went for a lazy mooch around Llyn Idwal - the snowline rose had risen to about 600m and the wind picked up and the cloud had come down - looked pretty ugly on the tops, driving sleet/snow.
Looks like today will be the last cold day for a while http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Snowdon/6day/mid
So I doubt if the snow will get a chance to consolidate, but not a bad start to the winter...
Looks like today will be the last cold day for a while http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Snowdon/6day/mid
So I doubt if the snow will get a chance to consolidate, but not a bad start to the winter...
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Went up to Cwm Clyd today (just gelow Y Garn), and did B Gully. Was in much better nick than I expected, especially top 100m, a lot of ice.
Meant to freeze tonight, so tomorrow should be ok as well, then south westerly winds coming in in the aft which will start the melting.
Pics from today below.
Looking up A Gully, B Gully & BC Buttress from Cwm Clyd area:
http://s495.photobucket.com/albums/rr313/trek1234green/?action=view¤t=DSC0...
Looking down on Cwm Clyd
http://s495.photobucket.com/albums/rr313/trek1234green/?action=view¤t=DSC0...
Went up to Cwm Clyd today (just gelow Y Garn), and did B Gully. Was in much better nick than I expected, especially top 100m, a lot of ice.
Meant to freeze tonight, so tomorrow should be ok as well, then south westerly winds coming in in the aft which will start the melting.
Pics from today below.
Looking up A Gully, B Gully & BC Buttress from Cwm Clyd area:
http://s495.photobucket.com/albums/rr313/trek1234green/?action=view¤t=DSC0...
Looking down on Cwm Clyd
http://s495.photobucket.com/albums/rr313/trek1234green/?action=view¤t=DSC0...
In reply to trek: Can you post them on the gallery here? Really want to see what things are looking like.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Check out Baggy's blog also ... some action in Nameless Cwm and on Trinity Face.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Ok. I will try again using Flickr this time!!
Looking up from Cwm Clyd at A & B Gullies area, Y Garn:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/45191895@N04/4152171007/
Looking down on Cwm Clyd from junction of A & B Gullies, Y Garn:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/45191895@N04/4152172261/
Upper Cwm Cnefion:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/45191895@N04/4152190169/
Ok. I will try again using Flickr this time!!
Looking up from Cwm Clyd at A & B Gullies area, Y Garn:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/45191895@N04/4152171007/
Looking down on Cwm Clyd from junction of A & B Gullies, Y Garn:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/45191895@N04/4152172261/
Upper Cwm Cnefion:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/45191895@N04/4152190169/
In reply to trek:
There was more snow than I had expected there to be in snowdonia the last couple of days, and yesterday it was noticeable that the turf was beginning to freeze on higher ground, say above 700m.
But routes had to be picked very carefully, as in a lot of cases coverings over rocky ground was not in 'neve' condition (yet) so was quite treacherous, and had no real substance. Also turf on most routes was quite soft underneath the snow, so not in any way 'in condition'.
BUT, there was certainly fun to be had. Some routes if picked carefully were most certainly in good enough condition to be done, and for this reason I mooched up B Gully on Y Garn on monday on my own, and went up to Cwm Cnefion on tuesday with my friend Mike, and after backing off a couple of routes, we opted for Nameless Gully, which brings you out on the Gribin Ridge.
It was raining heavily when we came down yesterday (tuesday), and I think our little winter spell is over for the next few days, although forecasts are more optimistic for the weekend.
I will be heading into snowdonia on sunday again, so will post more on here then.
There was more snow than I had expected there to be in snowdonia the last couple of days, and yesterday it was noticeable that the turf was beginning to freeze on higher ground, say above 700m.
But routes had to be picked very carefully, as in a lot of cases coverings over rocky ground was not in 'neve' condition (yet) so was quite treacherous, and had no real substance. Also turf on most routes was quite soft underneath the snow, so not in any way 'in condition'.
BUT, there was certainly fun to be had. Some routes if picked carefully were most certainly in good enough condition to be done, and for this reason I mooched up B Gully on Y Garn on monday on my own, and went up to Cwm Cnefion on tuesday with my friend Mike, and after backing off a couple of routes, we opted for Nameless Gully, which brings you out on the Gribin Ridge.
It was raining heavily when we came down yesterday (tuesday), and I think our little winter spell is over for the next few days, although forecasts are more optimistic for the weekend.
I will be heading into snowdonia on sunday again, so will post more on here then.
In reply to trek: Been stripped quite a bit today, snow level a lot higher,
In reply to Only a hill:
They do really yes, but yesterday (tuesday) there were plenty of teams on Trinity Face. Not ideal conditions yet, but soon.....
> (In reply to badpants)
> I thought the Trinity gullies needed the usual cycles of consolidation and freeze/thaw to make them doable? I certainly wouln't want to be floundering up a Grade I gully poorly filled with soft powder.
> I thought the Trinity gullies needed the usual cycles of consolidation and freeze/thaw to make them doable? I certainly wouln't want to be floundering up a Grade I gully poorly filled with soft powder.
They do really yes, but yesterday (tuesday) there were plenty of teams on Trinity Face. Not ideal conditions yet, but soon.....
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Hi just an update on the winter conditions. went up onto the carneddau today and still lots of snow, some parts up to knee height. Looking over onto the Glyders it didn't seem as though there was as much up there as the Carneddau.
Andy
Andy
In reply to trek:
Did you go to the summits? the summit wind on Y Garn were entertaining and the snow was very good above 700m.
Did you go to the summits? the summit wind on Y Garn were entertaining and the snow was very good above 700m.
In reply to vincentvega: sorry didnt it was quite misty and only got views every now and then
andy
andy
In reply to johnnorman: yes it was quite windy and the snow was great blew off the cobwebs of the crampons and axe
Andy
Andy
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
If this post could be kept current that would be excellent. Any photos would be much appreciated also.
If this post could be kept current that would be excellent. Any photos would be much appreciated also.
In reply to trek: The forecast for Saturday has changed today. It's gone from being gales and horrible to quite good.
Anyone been out today?
Anyone been out today?
In reply to Touching Centauri:
Friend of mine been out today, and texted me to say still plenty of snow in good nick high up.
Hopefully there should be some gullies to be had on the weekend high up.
I can't get out again until sunday unfortunately, but will post up pics again then.
Thinking of putting together a winter condition blog for snowdonia.
> (In reply to trek) The forecast for Saturday has changed today. It's gone from being gales and horrible to quite good.
>
> Anyone been out today?
>
> Anyone been out today?
Friend of mine been out today, and texted me to say still plenty of snow in good nick high up.
Hopefully there should be some gullies to be had on the weekend high up.
I can't get out again until sunday unfortunately, but will post up pics again then.
Thinking of putting together a winter condition blog for snowdonia.
In reply to trek: Just ran up Siabod, a bit of ice around freezing level must have been 600m, not much snow on the tourist path side or on the summit, some small patches of snow.
In reply to trek: I'll be out Saturday but no idea where. I'll get pics up whatever.
Any one suggest any routes that will be in condition this weekend? Grade II / III or decent scrambling routes 2/3
Hi,
Off to Cadair tonight for the weekend. Was wondering if anyone has any conditions info. Is it worth packing crampons and axe(s). Was going to scramble, but wondering if there is any winter climbing in and if so route recommendations up to Grade 4?
Cheers.
Mark
Off to Cadair tonight for the weekend. Was wondering if anyone has any conditions info. Is it worth packing crampons and axe(s). Was going to scramble, but wondering if there is any winter climbing in and if so route recommendations up to Grade 4?
Cheers.
Mark
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Hmm, forecast for tomorrow has worsened a bit. There's a bit of ice and frost in Bangor this morning, so it must be fairly cold on the tops.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Hi
Aiming to take a mate out for a winter bimble this weekend and not familiar with Winter in Wales. Would you expect snow on the summit of snowdon or would it make more sense to head to Carneddau.
Thanks
Hi
Aiming to take a mate out for a winter bimble this weekend and not familiar with Winter in Wales. Would you expect snow on the summit of snowdon or would it make more sense to head to Carneddau.
Thanks
In reply to kingjam: They'll be snow on both. The Carneddau has more high ground, probably more suitable for a novice. Depends on the weather. Snowdon is a death trap in the snow because of it's conical peak even the simple tourist routes have claimed quite a few lives.
In reply to IainRUK: If it's any use this is one of the remaining few webcams currently working:
http://www.aditnow.co.uk/webcam/
http://www.aditnow.co.uk/webcam/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Thinking of doing the north ridge of tryfan and bristly ridge this weekend, has anyone seen much snow up there? Will it be crampons and ice axe territory?
In reply to yelloman: On Siabod last night it was quite firm snow, I'd certainly take them, you may be OK as the crest itself may be stripped, but I wouldn't head up to a steep slope without them at the moment just in case.
In reply to Touching Centauri:
Much appreciated! That is a webcam I wasn't aware of. The snowndon area webcams on the bbc website have all stopped working.
> (In reply to IainRUK) If it's any use this is one of the remaining few webcams currently working:
> http://www.aditnow.co.uk/webcam/
> http://www.aditnow.co.uk/webcam/
Much appreciated! That is a webcam I wasn't aware of. The snowndon area webcams on the bbc website have all stopped working.
In reply to yelloman:
You will certainly find snow on higher ground & particularly in gullies. You will also almost definetly encounter ice, although how much depends on temps between now & then.
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge) Thinking of doing the north ridge of tryfan and bristly ridge this weekend, has anyone seen much snow up there? Will it be crampons and ice axe territory?
You will certainly find snow on higher ground & particularly in gullies. You will also almost definetly encounter ice, although how much depends on temps between now & then.
In reply to trek: There's a list of some here:
http://www.5hort5.co.uk/webcams.html
At present the only useful ones there are Snowdon from the south, electric mountain weather station, and Cadair Idris.
http://www.5hort5.co.uk/webcams.html
At present the only useful ones there are Snowdon from the south, electric mountain weather station, and Cadair Idris.
In reply to trek:
They're back now
> The snowndon area webcams on the bbc website have all stopped working.
They're back now
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Anything get climbed yesterday? I can't get up there till Monday or Tuesday so hoping there will be some easy gullies still in.
In reply to MikeLell:
Touching Centauri is out there today & reporting back later.
I will be in snowdonia getting as much in the way of winter climbing done as I can for the next 3 days (sun, mon & tues) and will post conditions on here each evening.
Touching Centauri is out there today & reporting back later.
I will be in snowdonia getting as much in the way of winter climbing done as I can for the next 3 days (sun, mon & tues) and will post conditions on here each evening.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Yeah, id also be interested if anyone got out today?
Im going over tomorrow, and wondering if ist worth taking the rack??!!
Cheers
Allan
Yeah, id also be interested if anyone got out today?
Im going over tomorrow, and wondering if ist worth taking the rack??!!
Cheers
Allan
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I've been out today. I didn't have high hopes but leaving Bangor we caught sight of Yr Elen and Cwm Llafar - still plenty there.
We headed into Cwm Lloer but were let down really. Not as much as we hoped. The top of Broad Gully was snowy (and there were tracks showing a recent ascent) but nothing looked brilliant. As we arrived there was one party at the base of The Headwall which had most snow, so we followed them. Again; a let down. The snow really hasn't consolidated - we didn't even bother with crampons, but axes were out (to arrest a fall more than anything). Another group must have had the same idea as us, as they followed us up.
There's still plenty of snow around (and deep in places). Cwm Cneifion looked ok, but Y Garn has lost nearly everything apart from the gullies. Headed down the east ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen as the weather worsened. Photos up soon.
Still, nice to get out.
We headed into Cwm Lloer but were let down really. Not as much as we hoped. The top of Broad Gully was snowy (and there were tracks showing a recent ascent) but nothing looked brilliant. As we arrived there was one party at the base of The Headwall which had most snow, so we followed them. Again; a let down. The snow really hasn't consolidated - we didn't even bother with crampons, but axes were out (to arrest a fall more than anything). Another group must have had the same idea as us, as they followed us up.
There's still plenty of snow around (and deep in places). Cwm Cneifion looked ok, but Y Garn has lost nearly everything apart from the gullies. Headed down the east ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen as the weather worsened. Photos up soon.
Still, nice to get out.
In reply to Touching Centauri: Few photos here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157622816289189/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157622816289189/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Think weve pretty much had it (for now)
http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/
Heading down there now though, will report back tonoght.
Think weve pretty much had it (for now)
http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/
Heading down there now though, will report back tonoght.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Was out today. Thats it for now im afraid! We climed the Llech Ddu Spur on the Carneddau, apart from small patches, only the very tops remain snow covered. Not suprising with the high temps of the last couple of days.
Was out today. Thats it for now im afraid! We climed the Llech Ddu Spur on the Carneddau, apart from small patches, only the very tops remain snow covered. Not suprising with the high temps of the last couple of days.
In reply to vincentvega:
Thats a real shame. What did you think of the scramble as i thought it was a bit of an anti-climax after the part of the route shown in the guide book!!
Thats a real shame. What did you think of the scramble as i thought it was a bit of an anti-climax after the part of the route shown in the guide book!!
In reply to climber_medic:
I really liked it!
I thought it was of reasonable length (for Welsh standards), and a great route to do as a wet weather option as was today!
Also a great route for introducing newbies!
Its a bit of a shame the scrambling sections arnt linked closer, quite a bit of grassy ground inbetween, but good spots for a brew i guess!!
Allan
I really liked it!
I thought it was of reasonable length (for Welsh standards), and a great route to do as a wet weather option as was today!
Also a great route for introducing newbies!
Its a bit of a shame the scrambling sections arnt linked closer, quite a bit of grassy ground inbetween, but good spots for a brew i guess!!
Allan
In reply to vincentvega: Nice pics. I'm quite a big fan of Crib Lem. Remote atmosphere, and a nice bit of exposure for such an easy route.
In reply to vincentvega:
Cheers. Yeah im of the same opinion. Full remote and wild feeling today, it was blowing a hooly up there!!
Allan
Cheers. Yeah im of the same opinion. Full remote and wild feeling today, it was blowing a hooly up there!!
Allan
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
No winter conditions left at all as others have said. I would post pics, but really no point!!
We will all have to make a point of reviving this thread as soon as there is more snow.
Sit tight!
No winter conditions left at all as others have said. I would post pics, but really no point!!
We will all have to make a point of reviving this thread as soon as there is more snow.
Sit tight!
In reply to vincentvega:
Apologies i was refering to Braich Ty Du on Pen yr ole Wen in my original post. Yes the Crib lem Spur is definately worth the walk in as it has an atmosphere of remoteness which is nice!!
Apologies i was refering to Braich Ty Du on Pen yr ole Wen in my original post. Yes the Crib lem Spur is definately worth the walk in as it has an atmosphere of remoteness which is nice!!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Does anyone know what conditions are like now? I imagine everything has been stripped away but I wonder If anything remains in the gullys. Cheers.
In reply to Dave Bingham: I suspect so. I'm heading out today to do fieldwork, but will at least drive down the Ogwen Valley so will report if any gullies are still filled, but it seems unlikely.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Checked the met office report and the temp seems to be dropping as the week goes on, anyone out there think there will be snow this weekend?
In reply to Dave Bingham:
Very very little left. I was on Snowdon yesterday and it rained very heavily all day, even on the summit it was raining, and I was literally watching the snow melt. There were still some patches here & there, but wet & uninviting. Sorry.
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge) Does anyone know what conditions are like now? I imagine everything has been stripped away but I wonder If anything remains in the gullys. Cheers.
Very very little left. I was on Snowdon yesterday and it rained very heavily all day, even on the summit it was raining, and I was literally watching the snow melt. There were still some patches here & there, but wet & uninviting. Sorry.
In reply to yelloman:
This does not suggest so: http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Snowdon/6day/mid
Going to climb Parson's Arete on friday, so I will report back on weather conditions on friday night.
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge) Checked the met office report and the temp seems to be dropping as the week goes on, anyone out there think there will be snow this weekend?
This does not suggest so: http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Snowdon/6day/mid
Going to climb Parson's Arete on friday, so I will report back on weather conditions on friday night.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Y Garn is stripped. Cwm Lloer too. Some patches about in Cwm Llafar and Cwm Cniefion but no obvious continuous lines from the road.
In reply to Dave Bingham: Climbed End Gulley and Central Trinity on Clogwyn y Garnedd on Monday but the snow was quite soft and dissappearing fast. Yesterday I noticed, from Capel Curig direction, there was more snow on the Glyders than Snowdon. Fingers crossed for more winter conditions soon.
In reply to The Dan with no name: Cold but no real snow left, just the odd patch. Lovely frost this morning too.
In reply to The Dan with no name:
The snow has gone apart from the odd patch. What there is in in purrrfect neve condition, unfortunately the snow patches are about 10ft square max!!
However, the ground is getting good & hard high up.
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge)
>
> What's it like there at the moment?
>
> What's it like there at the moment?
The snow has gone apart from the odd patch. What there is in in purrrfect neve condition, unfortunately the snow patches are about 10ft square max!!
However, the ground is getting good & hard high up.
In reply to trek: Snowdon this morning:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/4178377651/
As Trek says, lots of hard ground and ice on the puddles.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/4178377651/
As Trek says, lots of hard ground and ice on the puddles.
In reply to Touching Centauri:
Ah ok looking at the weather it seems the freezing level is going to be much lower during the week, and since there turf is already starting to get hard do you reckon there will be routes in wednesday/thursday?
Ah ok looking at the weather it seems the freezing level is going to be much lower during the week, and since there turf is already starting to get hard do you reckon there will be routes in wednesday/thursday?
In reply to The Dan with no name:
The long range snow forecast I subscribe to suggests temps between wed - fri will be maximum -2, minimum -8, which is good & cold, BUT only a dusting of snow over the next 7 days above the 700-800m mark (2cm monday, 1cm tuesday & 1cm sunday)
Fingers crossed we get a good bit more snow than that, as the ground will definetly be good & frozen ready for it.
> (In reply to Touching Centauri)
>
> Ah ok looking at the weather it seems the freezing level is going to be much lower during the week, and since there turf is already starting to get hard do you reckon there will be routes in wednesday/thursday?
>
> Ah ok looking at the weather it seems the freezing level is going to be much lower during the week, and since there turf is already starting to get hard do you reckon there will be routes in wednesday/thursday?
The long range snow forecast I subscribe to suggests temps between wed - fri will be maximum -2, minimum -8, which is good & cold, BUT only a dusting of snow over the next 7 days above the 700-800m mark (2cm monday, 1cm tuesday & 1cm sunday)
Fingers crossed we get a good bit more snow than that, as the ground will definetly be good & frozen ready for it.
In reply to trek:Sunday 13th Dec,Snowdon, no snow,ice just starting to form at 3000ft,Trinty face rimeing up, needs snow,and or long freeze to bring anything into condition.
In reply to Fiskavaig:
Forecast now suggesting several cm's of snow next weekend, and very very cold.
Forecast now suggesting several cm's of snow next weekend, and very very cold.
In reply to trek: I'm keeping everything crossed here for next weekend. I'd love to get some gullies but ridges might be the way forward.
In reply to Nicholas Livesey:
I would agree with that. Really hoping to get onto trinity face, but the weekend might be a wee bit too soon for that, we'll see.
I will be in snowdonia looking for decent winter routes 'in', on sunday, monday & wednesday. (If anyone fancies meeting up on wed let me know)
Im gonna either camp over on saturday night or leave here very early so can be walking in at around 6.30am. (My climbing partner is just gonna luv that!!!)
> (In reply to trek) I'm keeping everything crossed here for next weekend. I'd love to get some gullies but ridges might be the way forward.
I would agree with that. Really hoping to get onto trinity face, but the weekend might be a wee bit too soon for that, we'll see.
I will be in snowdonia looking for decent winter routes 'in', on sunday, monday & wednesday. (If anyone fancies meeting up on wed let me know)
Im gonna either camp over on saturday night or leave here very early so can be walking in at around 6.30am. (My climbing partner is just gonna luv that!!!)
In reply to trek: Hi trek, i may well be up for one of those days,lets see what the weather does between now and sunday.
In reply to trek:
I would agree with that! I'd love to get on Left Hand Trinity. I did 'Central' in February and really enjoyed it although the little ice pitch was interesting with one blunt walking axe
> (In reply to Nicholas Livesey)
> Really hoping to get onto trinity face, but the weekend might be a wee bit too soon for that, we'll see.
I would agree with that! I'd love to get on Left Hand Trinity. I did 'Central' in February and really enjoyed it although the little ice pitch was interesting with one blunt walking axe
In reply to Nicholas Livesey: Saw some photos from Monday, and a dusting of fresh snow had been laid down on Y Garn.
I should be out on Saturday again so will report here on what the conditions are like.
I should be out on Saturday again so will report here on what the conditions are like.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I've been keeping an eye on the weather forecasts, and noticing that it is pretty chilly outside...anybody got anything to report regarding Welsh Winter Conditions right now?
In reply to carrot_boy: There was absolutely no snow on the tops yesterday. Was out on the bike today and the clouds were too low to see much but it has been drizzling all day on the North Coast which suggests a warm front and therefore not much of a temperature gradient. Forecast looks hopeful for Friday though!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Give us a shout over Christmas if you want to get out and do some routes if the conditions are in. I'm around until 31st then off to NI.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: There's white stuff falling from the sky in Bangor. Admittedly, it's just hail...
Looks like there was a snow fall last night. Check out the Welsh webcams:
http://www.5hort5.co.uk/webcams.html
Looks like there was a snow fall last night. Check out the Welsh webcams:
http://www.5hort5.co.uk/webcams.html
In reply to Rob Johnson expeditionguide.com:
Eh? Have you swallowed a weather book?
Eh? Have you swallowed a weather book?
In reply to Touching Centauri: Thats a usefull site, cheers.
In reply to Fiskavaig: Just wandered into Upper Bangor and the Carneddau look great. There's quite a bit of snow, but it looks like just a dusting.
After teaching myself to use InDesign and much tinkering I've placed downloadable pdf topos for Cwm Cneifion and the Black Ladders on the welsh winter wiki here: http://welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/
The topos can be found on the Glyderau&Ogwen and Carneddau pages respectively.
Alternatively, the topos are hosted on the Scribd website (which is a great place for online publishing), you can go direct to http://Scribd.com where you can download the pdf's (search for clogwyn du, black ladders etc).
There's a few more areas to follow, if anybody's got good winter photos from any area of N.Wales I could use them.
I'd be interested to here what people think of the topos.
Cheers,
Pete.
The topos can be found on the Glyderau&Ogwen and Carneddau pages respectively.
Alternatively, the topos are hosted on the Scribd website (which is a great place for online publishing), you can go direct to http://Scribd.com where you can download the pdf's (search for clogwyn du, black ladders etc).
There's a few more areas to follow, if anybody's got good winter photos from any area of N.Wales I could use them.
I'd be interested to here what people think of the topos.
Cheers,
Pete.
In reply to petejh: I think you are doing a sterling job with that site Pete keep it up.
Hopefully this season will be as productive as last and keep you up dating for a few months.
Hopefully this season will be as productive as last and keep you up dating for a few months.
In reply to mux:
Seconded. Looks good.
The webcams looks rather snowy today. I think a friend of mine is out on the mountains at some point today (though just walking I suspect) but I'll report back here with what he finds.
> (In reply to petejh) I think you are doing a sterling job with that site Pete keep it up.
>
>
Seconded. Looks good.
The webcams looks rather snowy today. I think a friend of mine is out on the mountains at some point today (though just walking I suspect) but I'll report back here with what he finds.
In reply to Touching Centauri: Would welcome that ..I might be out on sunday if I can shake off this man flu !!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Any info over the next few days would be very much appreciated.
I will be out on sunday, monday & wednesday so will also report back on here each evening.
Any info over the next few days would be very much appreciated.
I will be out on sunday, monday & wednesday so will also report back on here each evening.
In reply to petejh: Very nicely done Pete.
In reply to Migsy: I have been out today. I have put photos and a conditions report on my Blog which you can google as I am not allowed to post a link. Good and cold but not a lot of snow to speak of. Ice routes are starting to form but need a few days yet.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Out today over Llewellyn and into the base of Black Ladders. No real snow just light granular powder blowing in the breeze. Lots of ice forming and a good freezing wind on the tops. Looks good from a distance and could come good.
Has anyone been out today or yesterday? Are any ice routes actually climeable yet? Wouldn't have thought so, but would be nice to know.
Idwal stream, sargeants??
Also how much snow is there now? Don't suppose trinity face is do able yet is it?
In reply to trek: There is till surprisingly little snow so the gully routes would still benefit from a bit more. ie some! There were folks climbing Idwal Stream today but it was very thin. With the forecast it should get good during the week.
Rob
Rob
In reply to trek: I am hopeful for next Wednesday, as long as something is in condition I don't really mind, how are things forming up on the Carneddau? The black ladders? Or am I just being too hopeful?!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: For various reasons I didn't get out today, but a friend bimbled up the NE ridge of Y Garn. He said that an axe was useful but not crampons. Haven't seen any photos though.
In reply to Touching Centauri:
I was hoping to find some ice tommorow, thinking Devil's Kitchen area
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge) For various reasons I didn't get out today, but a friend bimbled up the NE ridge of Y Garn. He said that an axe was useful but not crampons. Haven't seen any photos though.
I was hoping to find some ice tommorow, thinking Devil's Kitchen area
It's 2.5-3 degrees C at Ogwen now, lots of sleety rain coming down.
In reply to mynyddresident: More snow in Bangor over night. That can only bode well for the mountains!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Just been up Snowdon via the Pyg Track. A lot of powdery snow about, and we did not need to use ice axes or crampons today. It didn't look like any of the gully lines were in condition.
Just been up Snowdon via the Pyg Track. A lot of powdery snow about, and we did not need to use ice axes or crampons today. It didn't look like any of the gully lines were in condition.
In reply to trek: Got up idwal stream yesterday! great fun (and a bit wet).
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Out on Seniors Ridge today in Ogwen, some routes starting to come into condition. Parties on Idwal Stream, The Ramp and The Screen (though the latter seemed thin). Also spoke to a party who had been up Nameless Gully in the Nameless Cwm.
Lots of snow up on Seniors Ridge though mostly unconsolidated - some good mixed sections to be had though. There was also a successful ascent of El Mancho !! Respect.
Some good days ahead methinks.
Lots of snow up on Seniors Ridge though mostly unconsolidated - some good mixed sections to be had though. There was also a successful ascent of El Mancho !! Respect.
Some good days ahead methinks.
In reply to Migsy: Any pictures of what conditions are like?
In reply to Touching Centauri: I did the Cneifion Arete yesterday which had no ice but a fair amount of powder on it. After having done it four times in summer conditions it was a lot harder and quite awkward in places.
There was a party climbing an ice fall which leads into upper Cwm Cneifion though I'm not sure how good it was.
There was a party climbing an ice fall which leads into upper Cwm Cneifion though I'm not sure how good it was.
In reply to Eddie1234: Yes, I'll sort them out and post the link on this thread.
In reply to Migsy: Nice one, cheers.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: up in cryn las today on sargents gully. it wasn't well formed but just about climable some of the steep sections were rather thin in places and loads of running water behind it. Some places were rotten ice but was fun. snow was down to about 500m and snow was falling at cromlech boulders at 16:00 today some friends were heading upto cwm glas bach so i'll post when i hear what it was like higher up.
In reply to Eddie1234: Here you go - some idea of conditions today in the Ogwen area.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/migs418620/OgwenConditions2012#
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/migs418620/OgwenConditions2012#
In reply to Migsy: Good useful photos, thanks a lot. heading over tomorrow. Looks like a good area to head for?
In reply to jimjimjim: I would say so as the conditions should continue to improve over the next few days. I'm probably going to head up to the Upper Cliffs of Glyder Fawr on Tuesday having read Baggy's Blog earlier.
In reply to Nicholas Livesey:I did it in Winter once and was surprised by how tricky the first section actually was!
Arrived at Ogwen this morning about 9am. Headed up to Idwal not too optimistic at finding much ice, but we were very pleasantly suprised!
Idwal Stream (II) was forming well, with a couple of teams high up on it, also a team of two were on South Gully (IV). We headed for The Ramp (III)which was our objective, but found one team already on the first pitch, and another team waiting to climb.
So headed into the Devil's Kitchen (IV), which had plenty of ice in it in the lower sections, but had not yet formed enough to climb the final end wall (which is the Devil's Kitchen climb proper). Another week or so maybe...
All good fun though!
Not heading out tomorrow now, but will be back down in Snowdonia on wednesday, so will post another report on here then.
Idwal Stream (II) was forming well, with a couple of teams high up on it, also a team of two were on South Gully (IV). We headed for The Ramp (III)which was our objective, but found one team already on the first pitch, and another team waiting to climb.
So headed into the Devil's Kitchen (IV), which had plenty of ice in it in the lower sections, but had not yet formed enough to climb the final end wall (which is the Devil's Kitchen climb proper). Another week or so maybe...
All good fun though!
Not heading out tomorrow now, but will be back down in Snowdonia on wednesday, so will post another report on here then.
I have started a bit of a blog based on Welsh winter conditions. I know there are the excellent Mark 'Baggy' Richards & Rob Johnsons blogs, but the more the better I say. Also the winter routes I will be reporting on are slightly more modest than those guys.
You can find a link to it on my profile page. And here it is http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
Have a look. Also as it says on the blog, any info you may have on winter conditions in Snowdonia, routes you have done, as well as pics would be much appreciated. I will try to add them to the blog as & when I get a chance!
You can find a link to it on my profile page. And here it is http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
Have a look. Also as it says on the blog, any info you may have on winter conditions in Snowdonia, routes you have done, as well as pics would be much appreciated. I will try to add them to the blog as & when I get a chance!
In reply to trek: Good idea. As you say, the more the better! I'll be following closely, as I won't have chance to get out for a while now alas.
In reply to Touching Centauri:
Good man. You seem to get out & about a lot, so maybe when you are back in the hills you could email me any conditions & photos you might find? Up to you. Thanks.
> (In reply to trek) Good idea. As you say, the more the better! I'll be following closely, as I won't have chance to get out for a while now alas.
Good man. You seem to get out & about a lot, so maybe when you are back in the hills you could email me any conditions & photos you might find? Up to you. Thanks.
In reply to trek: Sure, will do. I do try get out at least weekly (living in Bangor does have some advantages) but this is my first season of getting into proper winter stuff, so I suspect I'll be bimbling round on all the easy gullies and ridges.
In reply to Touching Centauri:
give me a shout if you want to get out mate. I will see if I am free. Andy
give me a shout if you want to get out mate. I will see if I am free. Andy
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Forecast looks good - going out Wednesday, does anyone know what Snowdrop is like on Trinity? Otherwise may be Idwal early to hopefully avoid a que!
Also does anyone know of anything in condition or likely to be in condition of the Carneddau?
Also does anyone know of anything in condition or likely to be in condition of the Carneddau?
In reply to sleavesley:
Trinity pretty bare yesterday according to 2 climbers we spoke to last night at ogwen.
I am heading out on wed as well. On my own at he moment, so if you fancy hooking up (or anyone for that matter) let me know.
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge) Forecast looks good - going out Wednesday, does anyone know what Snowdrop is like on Trinity? Otherwise may be Idwal early to hopefully avoid a que!
> Also does anyone know of anything in condition or likely to be in condition of the Carneddau?
> Also does anyone know of anything in condition or likely to be in condition of the Carneddau?
Trinity pretty bare yesterday according to 2 climbers we spoke to last night at ogwen.
I am heading out on wed as well. On my own at he moment, so if you fancy hooking up (or anyone for that matter) let me know.
In reply to trek: thanks, out with partner on Wednesday, but may be about for more after Wednesday. Will keep you posted. May see you around Idwal Wednesday Shane
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Trinity could well be out, we have had no consolidation and lots of powder snow. Snowdrop is a build up route
Trinity could well be out, we have had no consolidation and lots of powder snow. Snowdrop is a build up route
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Spoke to Baggy about Andys new winter blog. He is well pleased, the more inbfo and pics the better if it means folk get out.
Spoke to Baggy about Andys new winter blog. He is well pleased, the more inbfo and pics the better if it means folk get out.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Out to day on Tryfan North ridge and then along heather terrace. Lots of powdery snow blowing about but nothing solid. Plenty of ice in places on top and in east face gullies.
slightly warmer this afternoon but still snowing as I left at 3pm.
water running under ice in plenty of places.
slightly warmer this afternoon but still snowing as I left at 3pm.
water running under ice in plenty of places.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: up in cwm clyd today on Banana Gully. There was Snow at all levels today but as posted it was a bit thin in areas. Up in cwm clyd there was plenty of accumulations mainly of graupel (600m-800m) this was obviously quite powdery in places but at 800m this turned into a nice consolodated snow pack and was good all the way upto to NE ridge where there was a tiny cornice. When leaving the temperature was falling again so should bode well for the next few days.
Travelling before Christmas to Wales and was wondering how are the conditions on the roads? Is A5/A4086 passable? How about the llanberis pass?
Thanks!
In reply to Arg4: Was certainly passable yesterday, was only an inch or two of snow in the area, and the roads were running absolutely fine.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: First post on the forum so please bear with me! Did 'C' gully on Y Garn yesterday (Sunday 20th)with two mates. Fantastic day out with lots of snow. Very deep in places, tops of the legs wading job at times! Not good for the connoisseurs amongst you, but snow is snow and you've got to make the most of it!! In between the wading lots of ice forming and the turf about 80% frozen. Will be in good shape following a freeze thaw cycle.
Roads are getting very slippy.
Crimean pass between Dolwyddelan & Blaneau nearly closed about 4 do to ice on road.
Cars were turning around instead of going over.
Not been out since 17:00 but its freezing.
Crimean pass between Dolwyddelan & Blaneau nearly closed about 4 do to ice on road.
Cars were turning around instead of going over.
Not been out since 17:00 but its freezing.
In reply to Martyn:
BE CAREFUL ON THE ROADS!!!
I knackered the steering on my car last night.
Was going up a hill on the A5 between Capel and Ogwen cottage but nearest Capel end about 5pm.
Was doing about 15mph and just as I reached the top of a hill and it leveled off the car started to slide sideways.
Nothing would bring it back. Slid the full width of the road, took out 3 plastic bollards, front wheel slammed into a big rock and shattered the hubcap, came so close to slamming into the wall side on.
A land rover parked infront of me so I could reverse and get out (and protecting me from oncoming cars) I think I pissed off MRT they just beeped at me. I was probably being a bit special as my clutch foot got the shakes as I tried to reverse myself out.
Nothing like adding to the cost of Christmas...
> Roads are getting very slippy.
BE CAREFUL ON THE ROADS!!!
I knackered the steering on my car last night.
Was going up a hill on the A5 between Capel and Ogwen cottage but nearest Capel end about 5pm.
Was doing about 15mph and just as I reached the top of a hill and it leveled off the car started to slide sideways.
Nothing would bring it back. Slid the full width of the road, took out 3 plastic bollards, front wheel slammed into a big rock and shattered the hubcap, came so close to slamming into the wall side on.
A land rover parked infront of me so I could reverse and get out (and protecting me from oncoming cars) I think I pissed off MRT they just beeped at me. I was probably being a bit special as my clutch foot got the shakes as I tried to reverse myself out.
Nothing like adding to the cost of Christmas...
In reply to Katie86:
Apologies for hijacking the post guys.
Thanks Katie. Sounds that i will be on the same patch today at the same time you were.
Apologies for hijacking the post guys.
Thanks Katie. Sounds that i will be on the same patch today at the same time you were.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: What a day yesterday! Cwm Cneiffon in good nick. Headed for Tower Gully and met up with three others and their dog (yes, she made it on a top rope - sensational). We all climbed the route together. Three good ice steps and perfect neve at the top. There were a couple of other teams out - Tower Slabs and one of the Clogwyn routes. The weather was perfect on the tops. the Devils Kitchen routes are forming and there were a couple of teams on them as well. All in all, a day that kept on giving on a route that never fails to deliver and in great company.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Excellent, thanks very much. I'm hoping to get Tower Gully done tomorrow, so this is very useful. Did you notice whether there was much of a cornice over Easy Route? Hoping to use it for a descent if it's stable.
Excellent, thanks very much. I'm hoping to get Tower Gully done tomorrow, so this is very useful. Did you notice whether there was much of a cornice over Easy Route? Hoping to use it for a descent if it's stable.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Eagerly awaiting any news of Idwal formations, will be there early tomorrow so would appreciate what lines are looking good to go. Thanks Shane
In reply to haydn: I walked over the top of Easy gully yesterday, a cornice was starting to build but it was very small- nothing to worry about yesterday anyway.
In reply to haydn: We had a look at the exits of both Easy Route and Hidden Gully. There was no cornice on Easy route although the last 5 metres or so was 75degrees or so. If is was the same neve that we found at the top of Tower Gully then a rope would be useful (abseil). If it is soft snow then it would even more of a thought provoker (not impossible though) ! Have a great day.
In reply to sleavesley: Teams on Idwal Stream, South Gully, The Ramp and The Screen this afternoon as we came down, though it seemed to be warming up and I could see the ice was starting to melt. Cwm Cneifion is still providing good sport at the back of the Cwm (albeit primarily on graupel), we tried to pick an interesting line along the back wall of the cwm exiting at the top of Easy Gully (no real cornice to speak of). There were two lads on Clogwyn Du when the clag dropped on us and a graupel whiteout kicked in ... not sure what route they were on though.
In reply to Migsy: That should read Easy Route - not Gully.
In reply to Migsy: Much Appreciated, given out a cold one for tonight, will be there first thing, so hoping its all good still.
In reply to Migsy: I did the Ramp this morning and it was pretty well frozen then. Did the screen this afternoon and it was dripping, screws were crap but placements fine. With a cold night more ice will form and these 2 routes will be good. First winter routes in Wales and very enjoyable they were too
In reply to MattG: Might have a photo of you on The Screen Matt - what time were you on? We were passing at about 2:00pm.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: went up the PYG earlier, lots of graupel/powder about, looks like the trinities will take at least another couple of days to consolidate.
In reply to Migsy: Yeah, it was around then, I led first pitch and followed the top one
In reply to Migsy: If it's decent could you mail it to me please - I had a red jacket on today
In reply to MattG: Will do.
In reply to MattG:
Interesting. Did you happen to see anyone/have a look at South Gully?
> (In reply to Migsy) I did the Ramp this morning and it was pretty well frozen then. Did the screen this afternoon and it was dripping, screws were crap but placements fine. With a cold night more ice will form and these 2 routes will be good. First winter routes in Wales and very enjoyable they were too
Interesting. Did you happen to see anyone/have a look at South Gully?
In reply to trek: There was a team on it at 2:00pm. Still looks pretty thin to me.
In reply to trek: at least 3 ascents today but not by me!
A long shot but does anyone know if anything is in condition on Cadair Idris?
In reply to trek: Climbed South Gully this morning. It looked good from a distance on the approach and didn't dissappoint. Screws were not great though, but plenty of hooking and placements. Get there early and it will be in better condition. We left the van about 6:45. Have a good one.
In reply to icarus82:
Cadair north side looks good but nothing really in. Lots of graupel/unconsolidated stuff and frosted up rock but no depth and dissappointingly no ice build up. I went up the hugging the buttress left of Central Gully and it stayed soft until 100metres from summit. Soft snow on top so we desperately need the freeze thaw cycle. Small ice formations on the buttresses right of Trojan area but I would bet on much better stuff higher and further north - Cneifon / Trinity etc.
Still it all looks very picturesque!
Maybe in a few days ??
Cadair north side looks good but nothing really in. Lots of graupel/unconsolidated stuff and frosted up rock but no depth and dissappointingly no ice build up. I went up the hugging the buttress left of Central Gully and it stayed soft until 100metres from summit. Soft snow on top so we desperately need the freeze thaw cycle. Small ice formations on the buttresses right of Trojan area but I would bet on much better stuff higher and further north - Cneifon / Trinity etc.
Still it all looks very picturesque!
Maybe in a few days ??
Cheers Gazzer. Im in the Cadair area over Christmas and can't get further north unfortunately. Might just go for a nice snowy walk!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Any reports from today?
Mixed conditions great in Cwm Cneifion, turf well frozen and several teams out including some big hitters ahem
In reply to mynyddresident: Who was out?
Parnell, Rich Cross,Andy Turner ...
Turf good, rime good, snow ...not consolidated much seeing as 70 percent of it is Graupel. Ice still building around Idwal and Cneifion . Looks like a thaw is coming according to forecasts but incidently it was 0.5 degrees C at Ogwen car park at 16 30 pm so tomorrow morning could be good early on.
Teams on Tower slabs also i forget to say.
Enjoy!
Turf good, rime good, snow ...not consolidated much seeing as 70 percent of it is Graupel. Ice still building around Idwal and Cneifion . Looks like a thaw is coming according to forecasts but incidently it was 0.5 degrees C at Ogwen car park at 16 30 pm so tomorrow morning could be good early on.
Teams on Tower slabs also i forget to say.
Enjoy!
In reply to mynyddresident:
Out in Cwm Idwal today - went to do The Screen, but it had a traffic jam on it most of the day (same team I think!), so opted for The Ramp. Turf a little soggy and ice becoming brittle and hollow (rock and ice falling at times).
Nice day out, but still a fair amount of water around and seems to be getting warmer too.
Think I'll go up much higher if I head out tomorrow, but temp due to rise so might give it a miss and start drinking and eating in time for Christmas
Bryn
Out in Cwm Idwal today - went to do The Screen, but it had a traffic jam on it most of the day (same team I think!), so opted for The Ramp. Turf a little soggy and ice becoming brittle and hollow (rock and ice falling at times).
Nice day out, but still a fair amount of water around and seems to be getting warmer too.
Think I'll go up much higher if I head out tomorrow, but temp due to rise so might give it a miss and start drinking and eating in time for Christmas
Bryn
I agree Bryn, there's mince pies to be eaten and beer to be swilled
In reply to bryn:
The Screen was good, melting quickly as the day went on. I saw at least 4 other teams on it not including us.
Loads of people on & waiting for the Ramp.
At least 2 did South Gully.
2 climbers on Devils Pipes.
Lots on Idwal Stream.
It fel very warm to me all day, even at 7.30 when I arrived. Although clear sky. so could be cold tonight, but as I live in Queensferry 55 miles away I have no idea!
The Screen was good, melting quickly as the day went on. I saw at least 4 other teams on it not including us.
Loads of people on & waiting for the Ramp.
At least 2 did South Gully.
2 climbers on Devils Pipes.
Lots on Idwal Stream.
It fel very warm to me all day, even at 7.30 when I arrived. Although clear sky. so could be cold tonight, but as I live in Queensferry 55 miles away I have no idea!
In reply to trek:
Callum Musket and myself did Devils Pipes today, first pitch was really thin did not take any gear !
Second pitch better, given v in the guidebook but, worthy of v1 today.
We then headed over to climb The Sting but found that it was not in, did a route on the l/h side, not in the guidebook but it has been done grade v I think !
Callum Musket and myself did Devils Pipes today, first pitch was really thin did not take any gear !
Second pitch better, given v in the guidebook but, worthy of v1 today.
We then headed over to climb The Sting but found that it was not in, did a route on the l/h side, not in the guidebook but it has been done grade v I think !
In reply to mr mills: went to look at central ice fall direct and cascade. What little ice there is, is rotten and thin. Large chunks of ice ar falling off at random. don't wate your time with the walk in. Snow remains powdery with a thin crust.
In reply to WILLS: took a photo of it and posted it check it. its not formed yet no where near.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Was first on the screen this morning, it was dripping a lot when i started and stopped as the day went on and got colder! I went up the right hand side of the second pitch where you step right, everyone else today went up the V groove to the left.
Did that quickly then waited for 3 hours to do the Ramp, start of second pitch not that great at all, brittle and thin to start it.
Teams were slow as commented on The screen placing copious ice screws, but figured they had a good time doing it.
How come you only did the first pitch of The Screen Trek? I have a photo of you on it and probably everyone else who was on it today apart from the scouse lads who followed us up The Screen. Also have a few people going up the bottom pitch of the Ramp. May put them on over xmas.
Hope everyone enjoyed their day and have a good xmas to all.
Shane
Did that quickly then waited for 3 hours to do the Ramp, start of second pitch not that great at all, brittle and thin to start it.
Teams were slow as commented on The screen placing copious ice screws, but figured they had a good time doing it.
How come you only did the first pitch of The Screen Trek? I have a photo of you on it and probably everyone else who was on it today apart from the scouse lads who followed us up The Screen. Also have a few people going up the bottom pitch of the Ramp. May put them on over xmas.
Hope everyone enjoyed their day and have a good xmas to all.
Shane
In reply to WILLS:
Thanks Wills, CID needs prolonged cold spells to be in condition and the first pitch of Cascade is the last to form !
Even in Cwm Idwal where conditions are usualy good most of the routes were in the process of thawing !
The best bet is higher up in Cwm Cneifion 800m -960m, have not as yet been up but tomorrow I will have to do some xmas shopping, hopefully after the festivities are done and dusted it will get colder !
Happy Xmas to all
Thanks Wills, CID needs prolonged cold spells to be in condition and the first pitch of Cascade is the last to form !
Even in Cwm Idwal where conditions are usualy good most of the routes were in the process of thawing !
The best bet is higher up in Cwm Cneifion 800m -960m, have not as yet been up but tomorrow I will have to do some xmas shopping, hopefully after the festivities are done and dusted it will get colder !
Happy Xmas to all
In reply to sleavesley:
Not sure about the day getting colder, but it was certainly mild today.
The Screen was dripping and apparently feeling less & less stable as the day went on.
Tim & Andy climbed all The Screen, and I chickened out after the first pitch with a 'sore ankle', old injury, yabba dabbada... excuses...
Was steeper than anything (on ice) ive done before, and I just didnt feel happy today at all.
Gutted about it now though
Not sure about the day getting colder, but it was certainly mild today.
The Screen was dripping and apparently feeling less & less stable as the day went on.
Tim & Andy climbed all The Screen, and I chickened out after the first pitch with a 'sore ankle', old injury, yabba dabbada... excuses...
Was steeper than anything (on ice) ive done before, and I just didnt feel happy today at all.
Gutted about it now though
In reply to trek: Well don't let it stop you getting out on it. Was quite steep but its only a short climb.
I'm sure you'll be back out again when the conditions are good enough. Have a good xmas and get down and do some bouldering to build up those forearms or get some good instruction on technique, it will help.
All the best Shane
I'm sure you'll be back out again when the conditions are good enough. Have a good xmas and get down and do some bouldering to build up those forearms or get some good instruction on technique, it will help.
All the best Shane
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Anyone been up in Clogwyn Du/ Cwm Cneifion today? Does the whole crag look in? How's the turf?
Cheers
Jon R
Cheers
Jon R
In reply to chummer:
chummer, check out DMM website news!
well in on the routes fella.
Black Ladders has been mint past couple o days, go and cheeck it out!
chummer, check out DMM website news!
well in on the routes fella.
Black Ladders has been mint past couple o days, go and cheeck it out!
In reply to panad: Cheers for that la!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=361693&id=616930573&l=76eaff0...
For those on The Ramp or The screen today. You may be in these. If you want the photo, email me.
Shane
For those on The Ramp or The screen today. You may be in these. If you want the photo, email me.
Shane
In reply to sleavesley:
Thanks for that sleavesley, just had an iffy day for a variety of reasons.
It wont stop me tho, no worries there. Hoping to get 2 or 3 days in after boxing day, hopefully climbing but walking if it all melts! Then off to Scotland beginning of jan.
Good photos by the way, was a great day for it, I got lots of nice snaps too.
Thanks for that sleavesley, just had an iffy day for a variety of reasons.
It wont stop me tho, no worries there. Hoping to get 2 or 3 days in after boxing day, hopefully climbing but walking if it all melts! Then off to Scotland beginning of jan.
Good photos by the way, was a great day for it, I got lots of nice snaps too.
--------------------------------------------
( Happy Christmas to everyone out there! )
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Just added some pics to my blog from Idwal area yesterday: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
Good freeze and -1 C at 300 metres this morning. Ideal.
In reply to mr mills: We climbed that route last year and reckoned that it was IV/V - good rock kit near the top. Me an Jon B decided it should be called the devils filthbag but I think it got put on the wiki as sting ray
Don't suppose anyone has been out today & knows if there is any ice left?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: What sort of nick will the snow gullies and easy mixed be in in the next 4 or 5 days, with this new snow and rising isotherms?
In reply to Cardi: Rising and then falling isotherms, could be good 27th ande 28th before further snowfall arrives, esp as it is meant to thaw to 900-1000m tomorrow, cwn cnefion, back of the carnedds cwn glas
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Whats the conditions like in Ogwen valley at the moment is there any snow left and where is at its best
Andy
Andy
In reply to andyd1970: Yeh i'm curious to know this. Looks like the isotherm is up for today but back down in the night/morning. Is turf still liekly to be frozne up on Clogwyn Ddu??
Cheers, Ed
Cheers, Ed
In reply to andyd1970: Yeah I'm interested to know what's in nik at the mo... I'm heading down monday morning and would love to do some climbing!!
Anyone know?
Cheers,
Kieran
Anyone know?
Cheers,
Kieran
Tough call Boothy, its been frozen for a week so perhaps it will see off the warm spell. Give it another day or two i would to be sure.
In reply to boothy: you going up tomorrow mr ? roel and keri where talkin about goin
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Any updates on how much snow has survived high up?
Looking from my house I can still see snow on the Carneddau though its very cloudy. My guess would be its mainly above 650m-700m. Colder today that yesterday.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Diolch. Will be up next few days, so fingers crossed for some easyish snow and mixed
Incidently, just checked one particular forecast and come tuesday we're looking at ALOT of snow , these forecasts always seems to change mind.Check snow-forecast.com for the 5 day Snowdon . We'd be looking at lots of digging on the routes if that forecast prevailed.
In reply to mynyddresident:
Tuesday is my planned day for the hills too! I fear i may be at home digging out Mercedes Sprinters...
Tuesday is my planned day for the hills too! I fear i may be at home digging out Mercedes Sprinters...
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
anyone know how the black ladders are looking?
anyone know how the black ladders are looking?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Forecast looks nice for tomorrow, are the high gullys in any nick at all, as if they are I may head north from South Wales tomorow?
Forecast looks nice for tomorrow, are the high gullys in any nick at all, as if they are I may head north from South Wales tomorow?
In reply to stevez:
went up tower gully this morning - lots of soft snow in the bottom of the gully, ice dodgy where exposed. there is a lot of wind driven snow on the gribin ridge and some bare patches with a thin scrape of refrozen old stuff. looking about thin snow above c 600m with large accumulations in places, turf not frozen at c750m.
however lots of gully lines white, a quick thaw and re-freeze could give great conditions.
went up tower gully this morning - lots of soft snow in the bottom of the gully, ice dodgy where exposed. there is a lot of wind driven snow on the gribin ridge and some bare patches with a thin scrape of refrozen old stuff. looking about thin snow above c 600m with large accumulations in places, turf not frozen at c750m.
however lots of gully lines white, a quick thaw and re-freeze could give great conditions.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
any ice left at all? was hoping to play at the devils kitchen tomorrow, any ideas? i heard people had done the ramp/screen/curtain etc, a few days ago, anything left?
cheers!
any ice left at all? was hoping to play at the devils kitchen tomorrow, any ideas? i heard people had done the ramp/screen/curtain etc, a few days ago, anything left?
cheers!
There are some slithers of ice where once there were routes . The lines are not in condition right now I'm sorry to say. Two On El Mancho today, good effort in the wind up there.
In reply to maybe_si:
Was up in Devils kitchen area. The Screen & Ramp both pretty well gone, Devil's Kitchen is not there either. South Gully looked to have survived though, but didn't go and have a close look.
We opted for East Wall Gully up the left hand side of Idwal Slabs. Nothing low down, some patchy ice & snow towards the top. But once you get into Cwm Cneifion its completely white. We did Tower Gully which was fine, a lot of fresh powder snow, but still well worth a visit. Visibility was zero, so no idea what others were up to in the Cwm.
Definetly lots & lots of snow forecast for tuesday, which is when I am next out.
I will post pics of today on my blog later on tonight/tomorrow morning.
Was up in Devils kitchen area. The Screen & Ramp both pretty well gone, Devil's Kitchen is not there either. South Gully looked to have survived though, but didn't go and have a close look.
We opted for East Wall Gully up the left hand side of Idwal Slabs. Nothing low down, some patchy ice & snow towards the top. But once you get into Cwm Cneifion its completely white. We did Tower Gully which was fine, a lot of fresh powder snow, but still well worth a visit. Visibility was zero, so no idea what others were up to in the Cwm.
Definetly lots & lots of snow forecast for tuesday, which is when I am next out.
I will post pics of today on my blog later on tonight/tomorrow morning.
In reply to trek:
i dont know the area too well, if there is bugger all ice then can anyone recommend me a good day out, i am comfortable leading up to E3/f7A/WI5/M6 and my friend can second most stuff, i fancy at the very least some decent exciting scrambling, is idwal stream doable in the pissing wet? whats good?
cheers!
i dont know the area too well, if there is bugger all ice then can anyone recommend me a good day out, i am comfortable leading up to E3/f7A/WI5/M6 and my friend can second most stuff, i fancy at the very least some decent exciting scrambling, is idwal stream doable in the pissing wet? whats good?
cheers!
In reply to maybe_si:
This is a great winter scramble relying on frozen turf, well worth the walk in. Its high on the mountain so should be in condition.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=104026
This is a great winter scramble relying on frozen turf, well worth the walk in. Its high on the mountain so should be in condition.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=104026
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Enjoy today guys, something tells me it could be a perfect day.
Wife has gone down sick so childcare duties for me, typical!!!!
Enjoy today guys, something tells me it could be a perfect day.
Wife has gone down sick so childcare duties for me, typical!!!!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Went out to Clogwyn Ddu yesterday(sunday) and despite the rain and warm temps low down, the winter remained up high. The mixed routes were in great nick with frozen turf ice, and lots of rhyme adding to the visual conditions. With the colder temps forecast this week, the crags are likely to come into amzing condition.
Ed
Ed
In reply to boothy: How much snow was there? I'm thinking of trying something mixed high up tomorrow, but the one potential partner I've rustled up is a hardcore tele-head and reckons we should take skis and do a tour. He was looking at one website that said 30 cms of snow in places but that didn't make much sense to me in terms of people talking about all the lower ice melting.
What did you get up Boothy?
What did you get up Boothy?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Well done Boothy - heard you put a new route up on Clogwyn Du.
In reply to Migsy: Yeh brother Adam climbed a new direct start to El Mancho. The Mankini Start. It follows the paralell diagonal ramp line a few metres below that of El Mancho's 2nd pitch, to eventually cut back up and right across a steep turfy wall with not really any kit. Good lead Ad!! This lands you at the base of the corner as for El Mancho to belay on the huge spike. I finfshed off up this which is one of the coolest winter pitches i have done. SO cool lying on that ledge.
Looks liek mixed conditions are going to be puka end of this week!
Cheers, Boothy
Looks liek mixed conditions are going to be puka end of this week!
Cheers, Boothy
In reply to boothy: Nice one. I'm planning on being up there on Thursday for something a grade or two easier !
In reply to Migsy:
Me too on thursday, I think by then conditions should be really good (hopefully)
Heading down there tomorrow as well, but forecast suggesting pretty much blizzard conditions!
Me too on thursday, I think by then conditions should be really good (hopefully)
Heading down there tomorrow as well, but forecast suggesting pretty much blizzard conditions!
In reply to Fex Wazner: Nice one, I'll look out for you!
There were six or seven teams on the Black Ladders on Monday. The crag was in reasonably good winter nick: plenty of good neve and ice, though also some less consolidated snow (with harder stuff underneath), while some of the ice looked a bit thin. Turf was variable but often good. Beautiful day and the crag was out of the wind, biting wind on the top though.
There was enough snow on the top for touring but you'd have a bit of a carry as the snow started only at about 600 metres on the North (Black Ladders) side, basically where the slope steepens below the crag. On that side there was enough snow to go up but I would have been hesitant about skiing back down as not quite enough to cover rocks sufficiently and a bit of a crust.
Snow is forecast for Tuesday and Wednesday but it will also stay cold, so I wonder whether this snow will be much use for climbing as it might just stay as powder without a bit of freeze thaw? The ice climbs might build up though? Would appreciate further updates.
There was enough snow on the top for touring but you'd have a bit of a carry as the snow started only at about 600 metres on the North (Black Ladders) side, basically where the slope steepens below the crag. On that side there was enough snow to go up but I would have been hesitant about skiing back down as not quite enough to cover rocks sufficiently and a bit of a crust.
Snow is forecast for Tuesday and Wednesday but it will also stay cold, so I wonder whether this snow will be much use for climbing as it might just stay as powder without a bit of freeze thaw? The ice climbs might build up though? Would appreciate further updates.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Up on Trinity yesterday. Generally pretty good, but snow quite powdery, would benefit from a few freeze-thaw cycles
Up on Trinity yesterday. Generally pretty good, but snow quite powdery, would benefit from a few freeze-thaw cycles
In reply to FrankBooth: Will be looking at trinity tomorrow maybe if i can get out according to the forecast! Any more news on various conditions would be great.
Went up Banana Gully today. Lots of snow, quite powdery but more frozen higher up.
Complete white out on top of Y Garn, vis down to about 10 feet, and howling gale, I mean really really howmling.
Complete white out on top of Y Garn, vis down to about 10 feet, and howling gale, I mean really really howmling.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: A lot of powder! Did Broad Gully in Cwm Ffynnon Lloer yesterday, required a bit of wading, but still good fun. Fantastic weather - got a photo of my Brocken Spectre! Dropped down into Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders) and did Eastern Gully. First time I'd been there. Very good ice for so early in the season. Good turf, but snow mainly rather soft.
Today was rather different - some of the harshest conditions I have ever been out in. Aimed for one of the gullies on Trinity Face, but turned back at the zig zags due to sandblaster snow, and unable to see the face to get a visual bearing to locate the gullies! Lots of snow higher up, which is only going to get deeper over the next few days.
Here's to a great 09/10 winter season!
Today was rather different - some of the harshest conditions I have ever been out in. Aimed for one of the gullies on Trinity Face, but turned back at the zig zags due to sandblaster snow, and unable to see the face to get a visual bearing to locate the gullies! Lots of snow higher up, which is only going to get deeper over the next few days.
Here's to a great 09/10 winter season!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Did Cneifion Arete today, in pretty good mixed conditions. Pretty brutal weather all day. I started up some cracks a bit to the right of the normal start, it was well protected but quite stiff and harder than I thought it would be! There will be a photo in my gallery once it has been moderated.
Someone had added the Idwal stream to their logbook yesterday. We went and had a look today on the way up and it's flowing very much in its summer style! We scrambled up that way but didn't need crampons until quite far up.
Someone had added the Idwal stream to their logbook yesterday. We went and had a look today on the way up and it's flowing very much in its summer style! We scrambled up that way but didn't need crampons until quite far up.
In reply to TobyA:
How was the snow on the way up to Snowdonia, and back for others who are thinking of going? Did the heavy stuff happen?
How was the snow on the way up to Snowdonia, and back for others who are thinking of going? Did the heavy stuff happen?
In reply to sutty:
ok around queensferry/welsh border at the moment sutty, some snow lying on minor roads further into wales.
ok around queensferry/welsh border at the moment sutty, some snow lying on minor roads further into wales.
In reply to sutty:
It rained through most of Wales. A bit of snow around Capel Cruig but just wet by Betswy. The roads were snowy from Much Wenlock down through Shropshire and into Worcestershire but not very slippy, then it was back to rain as I came down into the Severn Valley.
> How was the snow on the way up to Snowdonia, and back for others who are thinking of going? Did the heavy stuff happen?
It rained through most of Wales. A bit of snow around Capel Cruig but just wet by Betswy. The roads were snowy from Much Wenlock down through Shropshire and into Worcestershire but not very slippy, then it was back to rain as I came down into the Severn Valley.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
A good 1/2 - 1 inch of snow over everything here (I'm into wales about 8 miles west of welshpool), and it's still snowing. Roads were beginning to get treacherous a few hours ago.
A good 1/2 - 1 inch of snow over everything here (I'm into wales about 8 miles west of welshpool), and it's still snowing. Roads were beginning to get treacherous a few hours ago.
In reply to Cardi:
Hello, you must have been the guy we were chatting to on the first couple of belays of Eastern Gully before we turned off right into Playschool. I was belaying at the top of the first pitch.
Hello, you must have been the guy we were chatting to on the first couple of belays of Eastern Gully before we turned off right into Playschool. I was belaying at the top of the first pitch.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Loads of snow here - 8 miles inland from Aberystwyth and at 300m. Won't be able to get out for a day or two that's for sure!
In reply to Misha: Hi Misha, how was Playschool? I did the FWA in the 80's and I don't think it has been climbed much since. Good to see people getting out on the white stuff. I will have to wait until the family l;eave before I can go and play in Wales, hope it is still in condition then.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
coming down to do devils kitchen / y garn on fri .... did the forecasted snow arrive and what are conditions like now ?
coming down to do devils kitchen / y garn on fri .... did the forecasted snow arrive and what are conditions like now ?
I'm thinking of doing Broad Gully on Thursday. Given it'll only be the third or fourth winter climb I've ever done, do people reckon the conditions will be alright? Previous routes include Aladdin's Couloir and Aladdin's Mirror in coire an t-sneachda.
Sorry if this is a repetition of previous conditions questions.
Cheers.
Sorry if this is a repetition of previous conditions questions.
Cheers.
In reply to oggi:
I did Playschool back in the early 90s and thought it to be a top class route - ice from top to bottom- far better than Eastern Gully. In fact, combined with the direct start to Eastern, it was one of the better days I've had. Ice nearly all the way. Must go back and revisit it!
Top route, cheers Oggi!
> (In reply to Misha) Hi Misha, how was Playschool? I did the FWA in the 80's and I don't think it has been climbed much since. Good to see people getting out on the white stuff. I will have to wait until the family l;eave before I can go and play in Wales, hope it is still in condition then.
I did Playschool back in the early 90s and thought it to be a top class route - ice from top to bottom- far better than Eastern Gully. In fact, combined with the direct start to Eastern, it was one of the better days I've had. Ice nearly all the way. Must go back and revisit it!
Top route, cheers Oggi!
Powdery in there Fun and long though.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Hi, I'm looking for a climbing partner any time between the 2nd and 7th of January in North Wales. I've got a fair amount of scrambling experience up to grade 3 and winter climbing experience to grade ii / iii. If anyone's free on any of those days let me know.
Hi, I'm looking for a climbing partner any time between the 2nd and 7th of January in North Wales. I've got a fair amount of scrambling experience up to grade 3 and winter climbing experience to grade ii / iii. If anyone's free on any of those days let me know.
Anyone been out today? What did you find?
In reply to trek:
Whats this Andy you`ve not been out today!?
I was told more snow fell on the hills but don`t know what conditions are like, will find out tomorrow i guess. Things should be looking really good by the weekend fingers crossed.
> Anyone been out today? What did you find?
Whats this Andy you`ve not been out today!?
I was told more snow fell on the hills but don`t know what conditions are like, will find out tomorrow i guess. Things should be looking really good by the weekend fingers crossed.
In reply to phil dixon: just come down from y gribben, managed to get to hidden gully after going up a very snowy 'easy gully', tons of snow turf was still soft lower down, but once we got to the start hidden gully it was winter proper with frozen turf and a quite promising ice and nerve forming, give it a good couple of nights freeze and it will be more comfortable under foot.
hoping to get my son there on saturday.
k
hoping to get my son there on saturday.
k
In reply to johnnorman:
Afraid not. Had the kids today while the other half went to the sales in Chester.
Out tomorrow though. Was thinking of maybe having a wee look at hidden gully, so thanks for that.
Afraid not. Had the kids today while the other half went to the sales in Chester.
Out tomorrow though. Was thinking of maybe having a wee look at hidden gully, so thanks for that.
In reply to trek:
Hidden gully is a little gem and usual Cwm Cniefion is reliable.
May see you there?
> (In reply to johnnorman)
>
> >
> Out tomorrow though. Was thinking of maybe having a wee look at hidden gully, so thanks for that.
>
> >
> Out tomorrow though. Was thinking of maybe having a wee look at hidden gully, so thanks for that.
Hidden gully is a little gem and usual Cwm Cniefion is reliable.
May see you there?
In reply to johnnorman:
That is definetly where we are headed tomorrow morning, so may well see you there. (I wear a bright orange jacket!)
Thinking of maybe east wall gully to approach cwm cneifion.
That is definetly where we are headed tomorrow morning, so may well see you there. (I wear a bright orange jacket!)
Thinking of maybe east wall gully to approach cwm cneifion.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Any one been to idwal and seen what the ice routes are like ie screen, south gully and devils cellar
Any one been to idwal and seen what the ice routes are like ie screen, south gully and devils cellar
In reply to mmd: Yesterday there wasn't much ice there - you could see bits of the devil appendix but clearly a lot of it had melted in previous days. Idwal stream was flowing. Cwm Idwal was not in condition at all.
More pics now on my blog: http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2009/12/wild-wales-winter-ascent-of-c...
More pics now on my blog: http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2009/12/wild-wales-winter-ascent-of-c...
In reply to TobyA: Lots of ice still to be had, if anything, conditions have improved a little on some routes. South Gully has fattened out with the pillar do-able. Ramp is in good nick, screen is thin and nasty, pasture and cold-house nice. Lots of snow but hey, it's almost like a proper winter.. Pics from Idwal over the last week or so on my gallery.
In reply to trek: Thought I recognised the face on the blog. Good to see you're getting out in the good conditions. I haven't forgotten the course request but i've been to busy out climbing to do much about it recently.. There you go, pressures of work and all that nonsense.
In reply to mmd: Did Devils Cellar on Wednesday and it had some great climbing on it, though parts of the route were thin and maybe a little harder than usual. Its definatly all there though and climable.
Just got home after climbing Idwal Stream. In good nick, a bit wet in places but should improve opver the next few days.
Tonnes of climbers out today on The Screen, The Ramp, South Gully, etc...
Also lots & lots of walkers out today enjoying the proper winter we are enjoying.
Tonnes of climbers out today on The Screen, The Ramp, South Gully, etc...
Also lots & lots of walkers out today enjoying the proper winter we are enjoying.
In reply to finleyevan:
Is that you Andy? Just didnt recognise the user name 'finleyevan'.
> (In reply to trek) Thought I recognised the face on the blog. Good to see you're getting out in the good conditions. I haven't forgotten the course request but i've been to busy out climbing to do much about it recently.. There you go, pressures of work and all that nonsense.
Is that you Andy? Just didnt recognise the user name 'finleyevan'.
In reply to oggi:
Great to hear from the first ascentionist. We enjoyed Playschool, even though the last couple of pitches were snow and turf rather than ice, though there was some ice building in places on these pitches. I've added the route and a description to the database http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=145814, you can add the FA details if you like as for some reason Welsh Winter Climbs doesn't have this information for any routes. The route is included in the Black Ladders topo in the Welsh Winter wiki http://welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/page/Ysgolion+Duon+%2F+The+Black+Ladd... which should encourage a few more ascents. In fact someone was asking about it on another thread just now.
Great to hear from the first ascentionist. We enjoyed Playschool, even though the last couple of pitches were snow and turf rather than ice, though there was some ice building in places on these pitches. I've added the route and a description to the database http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=145814, you can add the FA details if you like as for some reason Welsh Winter Climbs doesn't have this information for any routes. The route is included in the Black Ladders topo in the Welsh Winter wiki http://welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/page/Ysgolion+Duon+%2F+The+Black+Ladd... which should encourage a few more ascents. In fact someone was asking about it on another thread just now.
In reply to Misha:
When the winter guide was written it was decided not to ascribe first ascents to routes unless it was certain they had not been climbed before. This is particularly true about middle grade routes which may have been climbed in the 60's and 70's when no one bothered recording ascents. The writers did use the names given by those who gave them the information. Playschool was climbed by me and a mate who were supposed to be baby sitting our kids as our wives were away at a Playschool meeting. We persuaded a neighbor to come in and do the sitting while we went out to climb. I did Eastern arete, and The Curver on Foel Goch the same winter. I see on another thread someone did that yesterday, it does not come into condition very often but when it does it is a superb line.
Doug
When the winter guide was written it was decided not to ascribe first ascents to routes unless it was certain they had not been climbed before. This is particularly true about middle grade routes which may have been climbed in the 60's and 70's when no one bothered recording ascents. The writers did use the names given by those who gave them the information. Playschool was climbed by me and a mate who were supposed to be baby sitting our kids as our wives were away at a Playschool meeting. We persuaded a neighbor to come in and do the sitting while we went out to climb. I did Eastern arete, and The Curver on Foel Goch the same winter. I see on another thread someone did that yesterday, it does not come into condition very often but when it does it is a superb line.
Doug
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Anyone been out on the Black Ladders today or in Cwm Idwal?
Heading over tomorrow, wondering how things were today?
Cheers
Allan
Anyone been out on the Black Ladders today or in Cwm Idwal?
Heading over tomorrow, wondering how things were today?
Cheers
Allan
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
In idwal today, south gully good, main pitch short screws first half, central in, devils cellar right hand in brill nick, stream in, screen in but spicy for 4, ramp in good nick, devils pasture in great nick
hope that helps
In idwal today, south gully good, main pitch short screws first half, central in, devils cellar right hand in brill nick, stream in, screen in but spicy for 4, ramp in good nick, devils pasture in great nick
hope that helps
In reply to vincentvega:
did western gully today, the ice pinnacle on the direct pitch was there but theres alot of unconsolidated snow. Not been on this face before, its a unique place. have fun
did western gully today, the ice pinnacle on the direct pitch was there but theres alot of unconsolidated snow. Not been on this face before, its a unique place. have fun
In reply to vincentvega:
Did Eastern gully today and was in decent condition, the snow is still a bit soft but the turf was bomber and the ice was good to. Really nice mountaineering.
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge)
>
> Anyone been out on the Black Ladders today or in Cwm Idwal?
>
>
>
> Anyone been out on the Black Ladders today or in Cwm Idwal?
>
>
Did Eastern gully today and was in decent condition, the snow is still a bit soft but the turf was bomber and the ice was good to. Really nice mountaineering.
In reply to david morse:
How was the slab pitch David?
> (In reply to vincentvega)
>
> did western gully today, the ice pinnacle on the direct pitch was there but theres alot of unconsolidated snow. Not been on this face before, its a unique place. have fun
>
> did western gully today, the ice pinnacle on the direct pitch was there but theres alot of unconsolidated snow. Not been on this face before, its a unique place. have fun
How was the slab pitch David?
Anybody know what the weather is like around the BLAENAU area of Snowdonia? We are looking at going around Cnicht area but we are mainly going to find some easy to moderate Grade 1 stuff - Any ideas?
We are going tomorrow morning, so hoping it should be ok.
Cheers
Rich
We are going tomorrow morning, so hoping it should be ok.
Cheers
Rich
Just a note on my last page BLAENAU is bout 10k southwest of snowdon, and the area we are looking at doing is in between BLAENAU and Beddgelert. OS115 1:50 63,47 area.
In reply to jim jones:
slab pitch was fine, i seconded it. 2 in situ pegs, my mate backed them up with a small wire and a bird beak. that pitch is cool! soft tech 7 we thought
slab pitch was fine, i seconded it. 2 in situ pegs, my mate backed them up with a small wire and a bird beak. that pitch is cool! soft tech 7 we thought
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
HI lets get something straight Western Gully aint tech 7. Its V-V. Enjoy. Yep the guide is wrong
HI lets get something straight Western Gully aint tech 7. Its V-V. Enjoy. Yep the guide is wrong
Hi, thanks for the speedy response, more looking for something around the grade of 1 with a tech grade of 1, something that we don't really have to even pitch, just go for it.
Cheers,
Rich
Cheers,
Rich
Anyone know what conditions are like in the Trinity gullies?
In reply to david morse:
When I did it first in 1988 it was IV in the guide and very exciting for the grade... done a a few more times since 4 and found it to be V V as mmd says ...
> (In reply to mmd)
>
> maybe its not 7 but ... definitly not 5. FACT
>
> maybe its not 7 but ... definitly not 5. FACT
When I did it first in 1988 it was IV in the guide and very exciting for the grade... done a a few more times since 4 and found it to be V V as mmd says ...
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
get on el mancho to see what 6 is like and on blenderhead to see what 7 is like then make the comparison
get on el mancho to see what 6 is like and on blenderhead to see what 7 is like then make the comparison
In reply to johnnorman:
I would be interested to know what trinity gullies are like too John.
Anyone???
>
>
> Anyone know what conditions are like in the Trinity gullies?
>
> Anyone know what conditions are like in the Trinity gullies?
I would be interested to know what trinity gullies are like too John.
Anyone???
In reply to johnnorman:
Does anyone know what the Trinity gullies are like at the moment, i really can`t be bothered with this grade debate stuff, just conditions, anyone?
>
>
> Anyone know what conditions are like in the Trinity gullies?
>
> Anyone know what conditions are like in the Trinity gullies?
Does anyone know what the Trinity gullies are like at the moment, i really can`t be bothered with this grade debate stuff, just conditions, anyone?
In reply to johnnorman:
You may not be bothered with the grade stuff, fine, but no need to say it like you have, why say anything at all. No one could be interested in Trinity but they are not on here telling you so
You may not be bothered with the grade stuff, fine, but no need to say it like you have, why say anything at all. No one could be interested in Trinity but they are not on here telling you so
In reply to trek:
Early Sunday morning i think, not sure yet, will let you know.
> (In reply to johnnorman)
>
> When you thinking of heading down there John?
>
> When you thinking of heading down there John?
Early Sunday morning i think, not sure yet, will let you know.
In reply to Welsh Winter Conditions: Just a quick one to say after some whingi.. sorry feedback, I've reduced the file sizes for the topos on the Welsh winter wiki so they're a lot more manageable to download now
In reply to mmd:
You need to start a new thread:
welsh winter grades based upon a 1980s guidebook
this thread is about conditions.
You need to start a new thread:
welsh winter grades based upon a 1980s guidebook
this thread is about conditions.
In reply to mmd:
"get on el mancho to see what 6 is like and on blenderhead to see what 7 is like then make the comparison" as these are the only routes of this grade in the world and it's inconceivable that you could have any other point of reference.
If i could expand on what dave said earlier: We thought VI,6 for the direct pitch in the middle. V,6/7 (bottom of the grade 7) for the slab pitch.
I would have found what dave said about the route useful if I was going out to do it. Of course if i didn't like reading other people opinions I could just stick using cold climbs and the cicerone guide and not read forums.
"get on el mancho to see what 6 is like and on blenderhead to see what 7 is like then make the comparison" as these are the only routes of this grade in the world and it's inconceivable that you could have any other point of reference.
If i could expand on what dave said earlier: We thought VI,6 for the direct pitch in the middle. V,6/7 (bottom of the grade 7) for the slab pitch.
I would have found what dave said about the route useful if I was going out to do it. Of course if i didn't like reading other people opinions I could just stick using cold climbs and the cicerone guide and not read forums.
In reply to tobykeep: I missed a trick there then Toby are you free in the week to climb on the white stuff?
In reply to johnnorman:
snowy I believe ...
> (In reply to johnnorman)
> [...]
>
>
>
> Does anyone know what the Trinity gullies are like at the moment, i really can`t be bothered with this grade debate stuff, just conditions, anyone?
> [...]
>
>
>
> Does anyone know what the Trinity gullies are like at the moment, i really can`t be bothered with this grade debate stuff, just conditions, anyone?
snowy I believe ...
In reply to Ian McNeill:
Was in Idwal/Cwm Cneifion today.
East Wall Gully was a question of trying to get through, at times, waist deep snow.
Then onto the series of 'bouldery' ice steps in Cwm Cneifion which were great fun and in great nick.
Finally onto Hidden Gully which was incredible. Snow nice and solid, and amazing riming on the walls. Great route.
Was in Idwal/Cwm Cneifion today.
East Wall Gully was a question of trying to get through, at times, waist deep snow.
Then onto the series of 'bouldery' ice steps in Cwm Cneifion which were great fun and in great nick.
Finally onto Hidden Gully which was incredible. Snow nice and solid, and amazing riming on the walls. Great route.
In reply to Ian McNeill:
Just checked Baggy Richards blog and it looks like the Trinity gullies may be dangerous. An avalanche was reported on the Pyg sweeping at least 2 people of the hill,thankfully it seams no one was hurt.
Just checked Baggy Richards blog and it looks like the Trinity gullies may be dangerous. An avalanche was reported on the Pyg sweeping at least 2 people of the hill,thankfully it seams no one was hurt.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: one of our party went to have a look to see what conditions werew like up there after finishing Crib Goch. He reported wading through waist deep powdwer at the spider right up to the start of the climbing in central trinity
In reply to johnnorman: Hi John, as my friend Griggj said we did Crib Goch yesterday and although people were climbing Central and Right Hand Trinity one of party reported that he was swimming in powder at the bottom.
But on a brighter note he fell over in a big drift and badly ripped his brand new £300 Arcteryx pants (xmas pressy)...his wife was not happy but we laughed anyway
But on a brighter note he fell over in a big drift and badly ripped his brand new £300 Arcteryx pants (xmas pressy)...his wife was not happy but we laughed anyway
In reply to Nicholas Livesey:
Hi Nic, we have now made plans to do Crib Goch tomorrow, i don`t relish the thought of swimming in powder. Tomorrows forecast is really good and you can never get tired of Crib goch.
Many thanks
John
Hi Nic, we have now made plans to do Crib Goch tomorrow, i don`t relish the thought of swimming in powder. Tomorrows forecast is really good and you can never get tired of Crib goch.
Many thanks
John
In reply to johnnorman
I saw two substantial avalanches below the Finger Stone and heard two more today, I saw one of the guys caught in one, two others had got to him before I could and shouted he was OK. I had done a couple of routes on Crib Y Ddysgyl which were fine, Snowdon itself IMO is pretty dangerous at the moment.
I saw two substantial avalanches below the Finger Stone and heard two more today, I saw one of the guys caught in one, two others had got to him before I could and shouted he was OK. I had done a couple of routes on Crib Y Ddysgyl which were fine, Snowdon itself IMO is pretty dangerous at the moment.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Approached our climb on similar slope aspects and area to that of the Trinities today and it was spooky. We tried to travel safely but it was difficult. Didn't hear or see the avalanche on Pyg, but not surprised.
In reply to Ian McNeill:
Hi Ian, obviously I didn't aid it myself (!), just pointing out that you could! Not sure what's happening this week, pretty busy at the moment. See you soon.
Hi Ian, obviously I didn't aid it myself (!), just pointing out that you could! Not sure what's happening this week, pretty busy at the moment. See you soon.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: walked snowdon on saturday via watkin path and scree slope. Paths all lost under tonnes of energy sapping powder - cross country and disappearing into hidden streams until the ridge. took a look at scree and went for it but with hindsight it was foolish. weather bad and very disorientating - lost the path and went straight up face. Top was a white out but we made it back down the miners in the end and taxi'd it back. I noted a few mini snow slides. I agree, snowdon is pretty deadly at the mo. People die here most years. Someone will probably die this year. I actually feel quite lucky today. crampons,axe and all the proper kit is essential - essential - essential!
See http://www.geologywales.co.uk/storms/winter0910a.htm for a few photos from the Mid-Wales hills looking north to Cadair and the Arans. These were taken New Years' Day. Snow pretty powdery above 450m but hard slabby drifts abundant. Surface hoar well-developed over most surfaces, will have been buried under more snow that fell from showers later that afternoon and into Saturday. Upper part of Arans pretty plastered in deep snow, Cadair less so.
Cheers - John
Cheers - John
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Just added a new report and some extra links to the blog: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
Just added a new report and some extra links to the blog: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
some photos of climbing in Idwal Cwm yesterday on blog:
http://allanrobb.blogspot.com/
Allan
some photos of climbing in Idwal Cwm yesterday on blog:
http://allanrobb.blogspot.com/
Allan
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Just back from a w/e in N.Wales. Went into the Black Ladders on Sat to do Central gully and weather was worse than expected. Completely clagged in and almost didn't find the route until we stumbled upon someone on the direct start. First pitch had some good steep ice in it, then 2-3 pitches of what can only be described as swimming up piles of snow granules that resembled polystyrene beads. These got blown up by the wind into stinging spindrift. The traverse and mixed groove pitch to get above the cave were fun. Lots of deep powder snow to the top. Walked out in the dark using compass bearings as it was pretty much a white out on top.
Sun got up late but still managed to get into the Devils Kitchen. Lovely clear day and lots of folk out doing all the classic routes. We did the Ramp which was in very good nick with some great steep ice on the second pitch. Several good ice screw placements and a massive thick stubby icicle just below the crux move which took three slings to encircle it for a belay.
Just back from a w/e in N.Wales. Went into the Black Ladders on Sat to do Central gully and weather was worse than expected. Completely clagged in and almost didn't find the route until we stumbled upon someone on the direct start. First pitch had some good steep ice in it, then 2-3 pitches of what can only be described as swimming up piles of snow granules that resembled polystyrene beads. These got blown up by the wind into stinging spindrift. The traverse and mixed groove pitch to get above the cave were fun. Lots of deep powder snow to the top. Walked out in the dark using compass bearings as it was pretty much a white out on top.
Sun got up late but still managed to get into the Devils Kitchen. Lovely clear day and lots of folk out doing all the classic routes. We did the Ramp which was in very good nick with some great steep ice on the second pitch. Several good ice screw placements and a massive thick stubby icicle just below the crux move which took three slings to encircle it for a belay.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
I left an empty black Aiguille crampon bag at the rucksack stash at the bottom of the Ramp today. Not valuable, I know, but I'll pay the postage if anyone's picked it up.
Thanks!
I left an empty black Aiguille crampon bag at the rucksack stash at the bottom of the Ramp today. Not valuable, I know, but I'll pay the postage if anyone's picked it up.
Thanks!
IDWAL, Saturday: Quite warm so the ice was plastic, which made for relatively easy climbing. You had to make sure that your footholds didn't crumble away but that wasn't generally a problem. Lots of teams on all the classic routes up to IV. A team did Devil's Staircase and reported difficult climbing due to the route being quite thin. Devil's Kitchen and Devil's Appendix were building but would need quite a bit more fattening up. The snow was wet due to the mild temperature, which could make for good neve if it freezes up (not sure if it did overnight).
TRINITY FACE, Sunday: The snow conditions must have improved substantially overnight, compared to the reports above. Did Central Trinity - whilst it certainly wasn't firm neve, it wasn't powder either. Going through ankle to knee deep on the way to The Spider but after that it got better, though still generally going in ankle deep. A short mixed section formed the crux, probably possible to bypass this a bit to the left. The snow generally felt fairly stable and there were no signs of recent avalanche debris, though it might have been smoothed out by the wind. Plenty of crusty snow on the surrounding buttresses so possible to go off exploring. I wandered over leftwards at one stage to have a look at Trinity Left Hand, which looked similar. There were teams on Trinity Left and Right Hand as well. The PYG track was fine in descent with crampons, there is a decent path. The dodgiest bit was on the final stretch down from the col at Bwlch y Moch, where I took the crampons off thinking any difficulties were over, as the well trodden and in places steep path was quite slippery in descent.
TRINITY FACE, Sunday: The snow conditions must have improved substantially overnight, compared to the reports above. Did Central Trinity - whilst it certainly wasn't firm neve, it wasn't powder either. Going through ankle to knee deep on the way to The Spider but after that it got better, though still generally going in ankle deep. A short mixed section formed the crux, probably possible to bypass this a bit to the left. The snow generally felt fairly stable and there were no signs of recent avalanche debris, though it might have been smoothed out by the wind. Plenty of crusty snow on the surrounding buttresses so possible to go off exploring. I wandered over leftwards at one stage to have a look at Trinity Left Hand, which looked similar. There were teams on Trinity Left and Right Hand as well. The PYG track was fine in descent with crampons, there is a decent path. The dodgiest bit was on the final stretch down from the col at Bwlch y Moch, where I took the crampons off thinking any difficulties were over, as the well trodden and in places steep path was quite slippery in descent.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Tried Left hand gully on Clogwyn Du on sunday. Holding no ice. Managed the second now very mixed pitch which is certainly a lot harder than a IV without ice. The next pitch was impossible however without ice build-up so we traversed across to Right Hand gully which was in excellent condition.
Reply to everyone and anyone really.
Did East Gully on Glyder Fawr on New Years day in exciting mountaineering conditions.. Made the boo boo of dropping a warthog on pitch 3. If anyone has been on since and found it, i'd be grateful if you could let me know if you're feeling generous. Snow was very unconsolidated so maybe gone till summer.
Devil's Pasture yesterday morning, lovely route this freeze. Definite advantage walking off before midday due to the hoards. Can't blame anyone for getting out though. As i've always said, when Wales is in condition, it's a good place to be.
Anyone been over to Face Route in Cwm Glas..? Had a quick look from the road yesterday but appears to be completely absent..?
Did East Gully on Glyder Fawr on New Years day in exciting mountaineering conditions.. Made the boo boo of dropping a warthog on pitch 3. If anyone has been on since and found it, i'd be grateful if you could let me know if you're feeling generous. Snow was very unconsolidated so maybe gone till summer.
Devil's Pasture yesterday morning, lovely route this freeze. Definite advantage walking off before midday due to the hoards. Can't blame anyone for getting out though. As i've always said, when Wales is in condition, it's a good place to be.
Anyone been over to Face Route in Cwm Glas..? Had a quick look from the road yesterday but appears to be completely absent..?
In reply to finleyevan:
A couple of teams were headed up to Face Route on Saturday, the main pitch looked OK (albeit from a distance), first pitch was absent but that's not unusual!
A couple of teams were headed up to Face Route on Saturday, the main pitch looked OK (albeit from a distance), first pitch was absent but that's not unusual!
Anyone know anything about Jubilee climb on Cloggy?
Any general beta and current condtion info would be appreciated. Thanks
Any general beta and current condtion info would be appreciated. Thanks
hi trek,was looking to get out saturday for a play in the snow either with the club/yourself,may contact you on friday ok....got some shiny new crampons and wooly hat ,glad your ankles better.colin.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Jubilee got done last week so will only be better, was reported on baggys blog cheers
Jubilee got done last week so will only be better, was reported on baggys blog cheers
9 Day snow forecast for Snowdonia at 708m:
Days 0-3 Weather Summary: A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue morning. Temperatures will be below freezing (max -2°C on Mon night, min -6°C on Wed night). Winds increasing (light winds from the WNW on Mon afternoon, fresh winds from the NE by Wed morning).
Days 4-6 Weather Summary: Mostly dry. Temperatures will be below freezing (max -2°C on Sun morning, min -7°C on Fri afternoon). Wind will be generally light.
Days 7-9 Weather Summary: Light rain (total 6.0mm), mostly falling on Wed afternoon . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 3°C on Wed afternoon, min -5°C on Mon night). Winds increasing (light winds from the NE on Mon night, strong winds from the SSW by Tue night).
Days 0-3 Weather Summary: A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue morning. Temperatures will be below freezing (max -2°C on Mon night, min -6°C on Wed night). Winds increasing (light winds from the WNW on Mon afternoon, fresh winds from the NE by Wed morning).
Days 4-6 Weather Summary: Mostly dry. Temperatures will be below freezing (max -2°C on Sun morning, min -7°C on Fri afternoon). Wind will be generally light.
Days 7-9 Weather Summary: Light rain (total 6.0mm), mostly falling on Wed afternoon . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 3°C on Wed afternoon, min -5°C on Mon night). Winds increasing (light winds from the NE on Mon night, strong winds from the SSW by Tue night).
I was around the Tryfan area Sat and Sun. We did a bit of ice axe arresting on the Saturday, just having a play and practicing for when we needed it. We then went up to the top of one of the Carnedau via what was probably about an easy grade one route, certain pars where a bit iffy to say the least. When we got near to the top the snow was starting to get a bit wet, started to get a little worried then. The very top was good though, had obviously had enough wind, walking axe went in solidly via the spike and finally offered a bit of much wanted protection.
However, on the way down the snow was so powdery it took me and my mate a good hour and a half to walk about a mile. One of your legs goes in so you try to stand and lift it out. The other then sinks, you then try to use your arms to push yourself out and they sink. Honestly, unless you have snow shoes it is not very nice.
I personally wouldn't chance anything above a grade 1 until mid next week, ice and snow should have hardened up by then.
Rich
However, on the way down the snow was so powdery it took me and my mate a good hour and a half to walk about a mile. One of your legs goes in so you try to stand and lift it out. The other then sinks, you then try to use your arms to push yourself out and they sink. Honestly, unless you have snow shoes it is not very nice.
I personally wouldn't chance anything above a grade 1 until mid next week, ice and snow should have hardened up by then.
Rich
anybody know of anything easy grade 1/2 winter routes on arenig fawr ?
Walked up the reservoir road opposite Helyg on sunday, over into Craig yr Isfa, made way down into the valley but all soft unconsolidated snow upto waist deep. Took an age to climb back up steep heather with deep powder. No routes in condition but very promising after a freeze thaw cycle.
In reply to uncle clive: I took a walk up the Arenig today. Had my eye on any possible lines but couldn't see anything to get excited about. I'd be very interested to hear if you find anything, or if anyone has any thoughts on possible lines that come in.
It does appear to be disappointing when it comes to winter climbing
It does appear to be disappointing when it comes to winter climbing
South Wales is getting good! Climbed Virgin Falls at Cwm Lluest today: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=116743
In reply to craigjfjones: Give it a week and a half and it will be as good, if not better, than last year!
In reply to craigjfjones: how is the bothy?
In reply to uncle clive:
I've not stopped at it in the last 12 months but it's looking good. It's had some work carried out on it fairly recently.
I've not stopped at it in the last 12 months but it's looking good. It's had some work carried out on it fairly recently.
In reply to ERU:
Has the first pitch formed?
> South Wales is getting good! Climbed Virgin Falls at Cwm Lluest today: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=116743
Has the first pitch formed?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Forecast staying nice and cold so far
Has anyone seen how the Llanberis side of things is doing at the minute - Cascade and similar? Its in theory been freezing at all levels for a while so I'm starting to wonder how much of the more low or obscure stuff (that, Maria, Trojan, things like that) might be forming up by now. I reckon Idwal will be pretty crowded come the weekend, so options further afield are always good
AJM
Forecast staying nice and cold so far
Has anyone seen how the Llanberis side of things is doing at the minute - Cascade and similar? Its in theory been freezing at all levels for a while so I'm starting to wonder how much of the more low or obscure stuff (that, Maria, Trojan, things like that) might be forming up by now. I reckon Idwal will be pretty crowded come the weekend, so options further afield are always good
AJM
In reply to AJM: Hi AJM,
Snowing hard in Llanberis right now. Also cold and very cold over night.
Was up the Pass briefly yesterday morning and Cascade and Central Icefall Direct were not formed (I looked from the road only). Cascade was there but looked unclimbably thin.
CIF wasn't really there, the top pillar wasn't there.
A way to go yet, but lets keep fingers crossed.
Jack
Snowing hard in Llanberis right now. Also cold and very cold over night.
Was up the Pass briefly yesterday morning and Cascade and Central Icefall Direct were not formed (I looked from the road only). Cascade was there but looked unclimbably thin.
CIF wasn't really there, the top pillar wasn't there.
A way to go yet, but lets keep fingers crossed.
Jack
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Lots of heavy wet snow falling here and settling on Sunshine Island, less than 10m above sea level!
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Cheers Jack.
Fingers crossed (for the weekend) as you say. Cwm Idwal/Cneifion are great, but I've done basically all of my Welsh winter there and it'd be good to move about a bit if the conditions allow it.
Andy
Cheers Jack.
Fingers crossed (for the weekend) as you say. Cwm Idwal/Cneifion are great, but I've done basically all of my Welsh winter there and it'd be good to move about a bit if the conditions allow it.
Andy
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
I'm looking at heading upto Moel Siabod tomorrow for an easy hike (can't climb at the moment as my wife and belayer is recovering from shoulder surgery). Anyone been there recently? If so, whats the snow underfoot like?
Cheers,
Rich
I'm looking at heading upto Moel Siabod tomorrow for an easy hike (can't climb at the moment as my wife and belayer is recovering from shoulder surgery). Anyone been there recently? If so, whats the snow underfoot like?
Cheers,
Rich
In reply to Lawman:
Haven't been up it but drive past it to work and its very white, there'll be drifts were you'll be up to your hips.
I went on the carneddau on the weekend and an "easy" hike on arenig fawr too but turned to be anything but - not had conditions like this in wales for many years. Speaking to a 98yr old lady earlier and she says she cannot remember anything like this for a long time.
Long may it continue!
Haven't been up it but drive past it to work and its very white, there'll be drifts were you'll be up to your hips.
I went on the carneddau on the weekend and an "easy" hike on arenig fawr too but turned to be anything but - not had conditions like this in wales for many years. Speaking to a 98yr old lady earlier and she says she cannot remember anything like this for a long time.
Long may it continue!
In reply to Thickhead:
Sounds like fun - as long as I can get a few photos with my new camera and a bit of video for my YouTube page (http://www.youtube.com/user/lawman1965) I'll be happy.
Cheers for the quick reply.
Rich
Sounds like fun - as long as I can get a few photos with my new camera and a bit of video for my YouTube page (http://www.youtube.com/user/lawman1965) I'll be happy.
Cheers for the quick reply.
Rich
In reply to Lawman:
Jonno and David Hooper have lots of pictures of the conditions on FB if you can see them. Worth asking them to mail you links if you are not on there.
Only FWD is suitable for the back roads, jonno is village deliveryman ATM for the people who cannot get out in normal cars.
Jonno and David Hooper have lots of pictures of the conditions on FB if you can see them. Worth asking them to mail you links if you are not on there.
Only FWD is suitable for the back roads, jonno is village deliveryman ATM for the people who cannot get out in normal cars.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Just back from a day out. The missus was with me so couldn't do anything vertical, so headed for a walk into the Carneddau. The original plan was Drosgol from Bethesda then a descent to Aber. It took 2hr 45mins to summit Gyrn Wigau such was the depth of the powder snow. Tiring going. On the top it all kicked off - strong winds and near-white out, so we descended down to the Caseg path and headed home.
After that we nearly got stranded in Bethesda as the buses stopped running at 3pm due to heavy snow. We got the last home. In over 5 years living in North Wales it was some of the hardest going I've ever experienced.
Photos soon.
After that we nearly got stranded in Bethesda as the buses stopped running at 3pm due to heavy snow. We got the last home. In over 5 years living in North Wales it was some of the hardest going I've ever experienced.
Photos soon.
In reply to Touching Centauri: Right, a few photos here. Nothing massively exciting though:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623145558826/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623145558826/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
We nearly never get snow here in Queensferry (N.Wales), but several inches has fallen this afternoon, and the sky looks suspiciously like it is still loaded with the white stuff.
Heading down to Snowdonia tomorrow, but probably going on my own, so thinking of doing the good ols Snowdon horseshoe, always a good outing.
Would like to have got onto one of the Trinity gullies, but with all this new snow falling its probably not too wise.
What has anyone else got planned for tomorrow (wed)??????
We nearly never get snow here in Queensferry (N.Wales), but several inches has fallen this afternoon, and the sky looks suspiciously like it is still loaded with the white stuff.
Heading down to Snowdonia tomorrow, but probably going on my own, so thinking of doing the good ols Snowdon horseshoe, always a good outing.
Would like to have got onto one of the Trinity gullies, but with all this new snow falling its probably not too wise.
What has anyone else got planned for tomorrow (wed)??????
In reply to trek:
Andy, the horseshoe was in great nik 2 days ago and allways pleasing. There was a fixed rope low down on Crib Goch at the first steepening.
The Trinity gullies were looking full and not seeing much traffic. Our original plan was for Great Gully but didn`t fancy the swim.
Andy, the horseshoe was in great nik 2 days ago and allways pleasing. There was a fixed rope low down on Crib Goch at the first steepening.
The Trinity gullies were looking full and not seeing much traffic. Our original plan was for Great Gully but didn`t fancy the swim.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Climbed Gallipoli on the Black Ladders yesterday. Photos, write up and small condition report on blog.
http://allanrobb.blogspot.com/2010/01/gallipoli.html
Climbed Gallipoli on the Black Ladders yesterday. Photos, write up and small condition report on blog.
http://allanrobb.blogspot.com/2010/01/gallipoli.html
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Up in Idwal probably, South Gully, before looking at other options Grecian 2000?, may do the ramp and screen again, is the curtain formed? And hows the kitchen coming along? Will take some photo's and post a link when back too.
In reply to sleavesley:
Did South gully yesterday, was in good condition but a little hacked about.
Short screws came in very handy. The Ramp and The Screen were also in good nik.
Did South gully yesterday, was in good condition but a little hacked about.
Short screws came in very handy. The Ramp and The Screen were also in good nik.
In reply to johnnorman: Cheers, Just hoping I can get there tomorrow with all this snow about apparently! Has missed Much Wenlock and Shrewsbury too when I left work!
Walk in to the Black Ladders will be very hard going tomorrow, its doing its best impression of Creag Meagaidh and is very deep towards the crag. The terraces beneath the routes proper are heavily loaded and unstable, i imagine the tops are the same. We ran away after climbing the first proper pitch of Polar Bear and found the snow levels much greater from when we walked in.
In reply to sleavesley:
The curtain has been climbed, but is pretty steep and hard for a IV.
The Kitchen was dripping on Sunday.
HTH
Allan
The curtain has been climbed, but is pretty steep and hard for a IV.
The Kitchen was dripping on Sunday.
HTH
Allan
In reply to vincentvega:
We did The Curtain on Sunday. It was relatively nice to halfway and then we found a major part was overhanging. Paul led this last bit beautifully, but it required a bold step and swing out onto a hanging section - not really what IV is normally about - so a little bit harder than IV. Good, but tough.
We did The Curtain on Sunday. It was relatively nice to halfway and then we found a major part was overhanging. Paul led this last bit beautifully, but it required a bold step and swing out onto a hanging section - not really what IV is normally about - so a little bit harder than IV. Good, but tough.
In reply to Rampikino: Thanks, although haven't gone today, gone with the sensible option of not driving 85 miles in present conditions with cars abandoned roads closed, slow progress etc etc. My climbing partner had to get back to work later this evening.
Next week maybe on my day off instead
Next week maybe on my day off instead
In reply to sleavesley:
Good call. Ive decided the same. Hopefully roads will be cleared/safer by tomorrow, go then instead.
Good call. Ive decided the same. Hopefully roads will be cleared/safer by tomorrow, go then instead.
Several centimetres of new snow overnight, the most from Mid-Wales southwards. Traffic is moving but roads are very quiet.
Cheers - John
Cheers - John
In reply to Johntherock:
There's a lot of snow on the higher ground in N Wales also with several road closures. A470 badly affected overnight, I was stranded overnight!
There's a lot of snow on the higher ground in N Wales also with several road closures. A470 badly affected overnight, I was stranded overnight!
In reply to Thickhead: Worthwhile having an 'emergency' kit in the boot of your car - my ex had one as she had to go over the horseshoe pass to work just in case. Nice warm sleeping bag etc.
I'm hoping aber falls come in to condition this year, just looking at the rear of the Welsh winters guide makes me have funny warm feelings!!
Would love Pistyll Rhaeadr to come in too! But probably just being hopeful there
With the long range forecast Andy (Trek) has put up hoping for good things to come.
Stay safe everyone
I'm hoping aber falls come in to condition this year, just looking at the rear of the Welsh winters guide makes me have funny warm feelings!!
Would love Pistyll Rhaeadr to come in too! But probably just being hopeful there
With the long range forecast Andy (Trek) has put up hoping for good things to come.
Stay safe everyone
In reply to sleavesley:
http://www.pistyllrhaeadr.co.uk/waterfall.html for those that haven't seen it not quite frozen enough here
http://www.pistyllrhaeadr.co.uk/waterfall.html for those that haven't seen it not quite frozen enough here
In reply to sleavesley:
Def worth having an emergency kit, luckily know enough local people and colleagues at work who I could stay with last night.
I'm looking forward to getting on the hills tomorrow as its my day off (Assuming of course I can get home tonight, the Daily Mail would have a field day if I went up the local hills here in work clothing!)
Not sure what will happen with the waterfalls, its 25years now since I last saw Aber Falls frozen, I only barely remember it.
Def worth having an emergency kit, luckily know enough local people and colleagues at work who I could stay with last night.
I'm looking forward to getting on the hills tomorrow as its my day off (Assuming of course I can get home tonight, the Daily Mail would have a field day if I went up the local hills here in work clothing!)
Not sure what will happen with the waterfalls, its 25years now since I last saw Aber Falls frozen, I only barely remember it.
In reply to sleavesley:
Last January we had a callout on Cadair Berwyn in the middle of a very frozen night. The RV was the cafe by the falls.
A few hours into it the peace of control was shattered by the sound of half of the frozen falls letting go and falling into the plunge pool! Sounded like a soddig howitzer...
Last January we had a callout on Cadair Berwyn in the middle of a very frozen night. The RV was the cafe by the falls.
A few hours into it the peace of control was shattered by the sound of half of the frozen falls letting go and falling into the plunge pool! Sounded like a soddig howitzer...
In reply to Thickhead:
Is it cold enough for Aber? Only been back in Nant for a few days but we've only had temps just below freezing I think, seen colder days for sure, lots of snow though. Ran up Eilio last night and the drifts were waist deep in places.
> (In reply to sleavesley)
>
>
> Not sure what will happen with the waterfalls, its 25years now since I last saw Aber Falls frozen, I only barely remember it.
>
>
> Not sure what will happen with the waterfalls, its 25years now since I last saw Aber Falls frozen, I only barely remember it.
Is it cold enough for Aber? Only been back in Nant for a few days but we've only had temps just below freezing I think, seen colder days for sure, lots of snow though. Ran up Eilio last night and the drifts were waist deep in places.
In reply to IainRUK:
I doubt it to be honest, would have to be particularly bad freeze and long. It was the winter of 1984 I think - it was so cold the news hit the headlines in South Africa!
Eilio sounds good, went up Tal Y Fan on Sunday and Arenig Fawr on Saturday and was up to my hips - and that was before this next dumping! Looking forward to heading up somewhere tomorrow so long as I can get home (in Ffestiniog at the moment but only with my work clothes!)
I doubt it to be honest, would have to be particularly bad freeze and long. It was the winter of 1984 I think - it was so cold the news hit the headlines in South Africa!
Eilio sounds good, went up Tal Y Fan on Sunday and Arenig Fawr on Saturday and was up to my hips - and that was before this next dumping! Looking forward to heading up somewhere tomorrow so long as I can get home (in Ffestiniog at the moment but only with my work clothes!)
In reply to Thickhead: i heard aber falls got done in 1996, that was a 3 week easterly though
In reply to MattG:
Maybe partly frozen then, don't think it was fully, but might be wrong. Last time I saw it was back in the early eighties.
Maybe partly frozen then, don't think it was fully, but might be wrong. Last time I saw it was back in the early eighties.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
heading out either tomorrow or friday.
Any thoughts on when the conditions will be better on black ladders?
heading out either tomorrow or friday.
Any thoughts on when the conditions will be better on black ladders?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: or where will be best, full.
In reply to Sgt. Vest:
Was at the Ladders on Monday, and the powder was pretty deep then making thing hard going, the approach to the crag, especially the eastern end, up the snow slope was ok but you could see areas of windslab builing as we passed.
With even more snow i suspect the routes would be pretty hard and the approach doddgy!
Was at the Ladders on Monday, and the powder was pretty deep then making thing hard going, the approach to the crag, especially the eastern end, up the snow slope was ok but you could see areas of windslab builing as we passed.
With even more snow i suspect the routes would be pretty hard and the approach doddgy!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: so where would be the best option for the next couple of days?
In reply to MattG:
It was fully frozen in 96 (ie both sides were in, still water flowing down the centre), we did it at the end of January, beginning of February.
> (In reply to Thickhead) i heard aber falls got done in 1996, that was a 3 week easterly though
It was fully frozen in 96 (ie both sides were in, still water flowing down the centre), we did it at the end of January, beginning of February.
In reply to Anglesey Pete:
There we go, I stand corrected.
Either way its a long time since it was last frozen and it doesn't happen very often!
There we go, I stand corrected.
Either way its a long time since it was last frozen and it doesn't happen very often!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: was out yesterday on the Screen, Monday we soloed The Ramp, Devil's Pasture, Idwal Streams and Central Route. Devil's Pasture was awesome and didn't feel much easier than the Screen.
In reply to Thickhead:
The pic of it on the back of the 1988 guide was taken in 1986.
> (In reply to MattG)
>
> Maybe partly frozen then, don't think it was fully, but might be wrong. Last time I saw it was back in the early eighties.
>
> Maybe partly frozen then, don't think it was fully, but might be wrong. Last time I saw it was back in the early eighties.
The pic of it on the back of the 1988 guide was taken in 1986.
In reply to Simon Panton:
Didn't think it was as late as '86 but that is probably the time I was referring to.
Didn't think it was as late as '86 but that is probably the time I was referring to.
In reply to Thickhead: Eilio, last night, yet more dog abuse. Wasn't that cold on top though. I wouldn't be too surprised to hear of avalanches, lots of snow being moved around on top of older consolidated snow.
http://sarzmountainrun.blogspot.com/2010/01/snow-drifts-to-swallow-you.html
http://sarzmountainrun.blogspot.com/2010/01/snow-drifts-to-swallow-you.html
In reply to IainRUK:
Sounds great! I took my labrador on Carnedd Dafydd/Pen Yr Ole Wen on New Year's Day, she managed it well but when her whiskers started to freeze and she started to turn a frosty white I thought best descend rather than continue to Llywelyn!
I've been wondering if/when avalanches may happen - in Ffestiniog last night there was danger of snow falling off roofs onto pedestrians. Can only be a matter of time in these conditions...
Tomorrow and this weekend should be fun on the hills. Not sure where to head just yet, guess it depends on the roads and weather.
Sounds great! I took my labrador on Carnedd Dafydd/Pen Yr Ole Wen on New Year's Day, she managed it well but when her whiskers started to freeze and she started to turn a frosty white I thought best descend rather than continue to Llywelyn!
I've been wondering if/when avalanches may happen - in Ffestiniog last night there was danger of snow falling off roofs onto pedestrians. Can only be a matter of time in these conditions...
Tomorrow and this weekend should be fun on the hills. Not sure where to head just yet, guess it depends on the roads and weather.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Any reports on the condition of the road from Bethesda to Ogwen cottage?
Its impassable...nightmare Actually its perfectly fine, two lane tarmac with cats eyes, but to ease your worries NO snow and well gritted
In reply to mynyddresident: Lovely job. Diolch yn fawr.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Anyone reports from today? I noticed Broad Gully was done in Cwm Ffynnon Lloer. I had thought that a snow gully route for tomorrow was probably out of the question due to the fresh snow layer. Any info appreciated especially for Upper Cliffs of Glyder Fawr or Cwm Ffynnon Lloer.
In reply to trek: I had plans to skive off then realised I have a driving lesson booked. Dammit.
> (In reply to trek) I had plans to skive off then realised I have a driving lesson booked. Dammit.
Another time matey, just say the word.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Just back from Cwm Ffynnon Lloer having been up Broad Gully. The approach isn't too bad - a trail had been formed by the time we were down. The snow in the gully is consolidating nicely with many sections of good neve - much better than I expected. Quite a few skiing and boarding down from Carnedd Dafydd in the sunshine.
Went past aber falls today, they have a little way to go yet. Its still cold though!
The tops of the Carneddau were awesome. Stunning.
The tops of the Carneddau were awesome. Stunning.
In reply to Thickhead: Aber Falls.. flippin eck. I nicked an ascent of this in '96? i think, they day before it collapsed and possibly the last time it was in nick? That was quite late in the season. Its proper going for it at the mo eh.
Went up by y gribin (lot of deep loose snow) onto the glyders.We had lovely day, only a bit cold on the tops
In reply to Paul R:
I didn't realise it had frozen in 1996 - see above - thinking about it that was probably the last time the N Wales coast had quite so much snow.
I didn't realise it had frozen in 1996 - see above - thinking about it that was probably the last time the N Wales coast had quite so much snow.
In reply to Thickhead: Well fingers crossed I'm not out til next wednesday now and then probably the sunday so hoping some nice things come into condition between then and now.
My list to do so far; Aber falls (of course if and when it forms) Fairy falls, South Gully, The curtain, Hanging gardens, Snowdrop.
And anything on Lliwedd!! (if I'm brave)
My list to do so far; Aber falls (of course if and when it forms) Fairy falls, South Gully, The curtain, Hanging gardens, Snowdrop.
And anything on Lliwedd!! (if I'm brave)
In reply to sleavesley: Does anyone know what the ski touring conditions are like on the Glyders/Y Garn and Snowdon at the moment? Could a good day be had on Saturday?
In reply to Traveller:
I would imagine so, couldn't comment precisely on he mountains questioned but the Carneddau would certainly be a suitable alternative.
I would imagine so, couldn't comment precisely on he mountains questioned but the Carneddau would certainly be a suitable alternative.
Does anyone know what the ski touring conditions are like on the Glyders/Y Garn and Snowdon at the moment?
My mate skied up and down Snowdon on the Llanberis path the other day which was quite hard going apparently.
I guess the "conditions" are unlikely to get much better than now.
My mate skied up and down Snowdon on the Llanberis path the other day which was quite hard going apparently.
I guess the "conditions" are unlikely to get much better than now.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
carneddu would be best, from Bethesda side , its vert white and is the best area ie lots of grass
carneddu would be best, from Bethesda side , its vert white and is the best area ie lots of grass
In reply to jobertalot: Head for the Berwyns, huge amount of snow an ideal conditions. Weve now got 3ft lyeing in Llanarmon DC with drifts up to 8ft.
any news on cwm silyn?
In reply to jobertalot: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=387135&v=1#x5605659
See the post by G Davies,he was up there on Tuesday.
See the post by G Davies,he was up there on Tuesday.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Just posted a bit about snow conditions on Snowdon
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=388666
Just posted a bit about snow conditions on Snowdon
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=388666
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Report on conditions on the Trinity Face on my gallery + lots of photos of recent snow in N Wales in both Ogwen & Snowdon areas. http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.html?id=9687
Roads are clear but Pen y Pass car park was closed yesterday as they were getting it cleared for the weekend.
SPECIAL WARNING: Navigating on the tops is very difficult in these desperate conditions, which certainly applied during Tuesday's blizzard. If you have a bothy shelter, it makes life a lot easier as you can sort out all the bearings in the relative calm of the shelter before braceing oneself for the howling spindrift as the eyes freeze up readily and goggles just get snowed, limiting visibility in such extreme whiteout conditions.
Roads are clear but Pen y Pass car park was closed yesterday as they were getting it cleared for the weekend.
SPECIAL WARNING: Navigating on the tops is very difficult in these desperate conditions, which certainly applied during Tuesday's blizzard. If you have a bothy shelter, it makes life a lot easier as you can sort out all the bearings in the relative calm of the shelter before braceing oneself for the howling spindrift as the eyes freeze up readily and goggles just get snowed, limiting visibility in such extreme whiteout conditions.
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Wise words Sean, hope everyone enjoys the beauty of the mountains, and if you see a `noddy` please tell them, stay safe have a good weekend.
Wise words Sean, hope everyone enjoys the beauty of the mountains, and if you see a `noddy` please tell them, stay safe have a good weekend.
In reply to tobykeep:
That also concurs with a pit we dug decending the Pyg today.
http://allanrobb.blogspot.com/
Allan
That also concurs with a pit we dug decending the Pyg today.
http://allanrobb.blogspot.com/
Allan
In reply to vincentvega: You both get home OK?
By the way - found your headtorch in the lane outside the cottage - Ill hang on to it for you
By the way - found your headtorch in the lane outside the cottage - Ill hang on to it for you
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Cwm Hetiau in great condition today, not another soul to be seen even on the Snowdon Path. Fantastic sunset and alpenglow, shame my camera was frozen up!
Cwm Hetiau in great condition today, not another soul to be seen even on the Snowdon Path. Fantastic sunset and alpenglow, shame my camera was frozen up!
In reply to David Hooper:
yeah all worked out well!
Doh! looks like il have to get quicker this weekend now!
Cheers mate
Allan
yeah all worked out well!
Doh! looks like il have to get quicker this weekend now!
Cheers mate
Allan
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Snowdon horseshoe was in its full glory yesterday. Absolutely superb. Shame views were absent above 2500ft though.
In reply to Cardi: Not much to add apart from keeping the thread going, but here's a pic of Snowdon from Capel yesterday:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/4262090105/
I'm hoping to actually get out and climb something this week!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/4262090105/
I'm hoping to actually get out and climb something this week!
In reply to Touching Centauri:
Heres a couple taken on Friday
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=133249
and
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=133248
have fun - but think about avalanche risk
Heres a couple taken on Friday
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=133249
and
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=133248
have fun - but think about avalanche risk
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Climbed Railway Gully on sat it was in very good condition good ice and neve.Its along route with crap belays you do need ice screws we topped out at 4pm so with the little bit of light left followed the railway back down,thanks to the lady that gave us alift up the pass.
In reply to ox: Which is Railway Gully? for a minute I thought you were referring to End Gully on Gloggwyn y Garnedd although that's a very short route. Couldn't find it on the logbook here.
In reply to MikeLell:Its in Cwm Hetiau its directly beneath Clogwyn Station,the half way station on Snowdon.The Railway Buttress has some great looking ice lines and no one around just two climbing The Irish Mail.
Was one of five teams that did Jammed Boulder Gully on Dinas Mot on Sunday. Quite snowy so only a couple of ice sections on the steeper bits and II rather than IV overall, but a nice enough route if you want a short day and tucked out of the wind, just get there before everyone else! The snow was starting to transform but needs more freeze-thaw.
A Sea King was buzzing away around Craig y Rhaeadr - apparently someone had falled off Cascade, ripping out gear.
Lots of ice and loads of people in Idwal on Saturday. Several teams did the Appendix. The Kitchen was also in. Probably a bit less left of those routes by the end of the day!
A Sea King was buzzing away around Craig y Rhaeadr - apparently someone had falled off Cascade, ripping out gear.
Lots of ice and loads of people in Idwal on Saturday. Several teams did the Appendix. The Kitchen was also in. Probably a bit less left of those routes by the end of the day!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Weekend round up here as usual
http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/2010/01/busy-weekend-in-wales-some-bif-lobs-be...
http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/2010/01/busy-weekend-in-wales-some-bif-lobs-be...
In reply to Misha:
Was on JBG on saturday, like you say, rather poor really, once atop the boulder we broke right and did the top pitch of JBG buttress. Ice wasn't stuck to the rock properly and it could be felt flexing under your feet making it a bit scary, odd bits of good turf though. more like a IV than a III and JBG was II rather than IV as you say. Roadside routes eh? whatever next!
Was on JBG on saturday, like you say, rather poor really, once atop the boulder we broke right and did the top pitch of JBG buttress. Ice wasn't stuck to the rock properly and it could be felt flexing under your feet making it a bit scary, odd bits of good turf though. more like a IV than a III and JBG was II rather than IV as you say. Roadside routes eh? whatever next!
Has anyone done Bryant's Gully recently? Is there any decent ice in it?
Is it worth doing at the moment as a winter route?
Is it worth doing at the moment as a winter route?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Gonna be heading up to betws y coed on the 21st of January to climb snowdon the next morning.
I’ll keep an eye on this thread to make sure we can actually get to North Wales from Surrey
Gonna be heading up to betws y coed on the 21st of January to climb snowdon the next morning.
I’ll keep an eye on this thread to make sure we can actually get to North Wales from Surrey
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Some photos from the weekend. http://www.flickr.com/photos/midlander65/
Saturday. Cwm Idwal with the crowds.
Introductory Gully was OK but the ice lower down could have been more solid.
The ice in Central Route was good but the snow higher up wasn't very consolidated.
Sunday Cwm Glas.
Sergeant's Gully. Big holes in the ice through which you could see the waterfall. Ice good but stretches of unconsolidated snow.
Sinister Gully. Ice in the steep Icy groove was good but above that it was just poor snow and very weak hoar frost all the way. Really needs a bit of thaw and re-freeze.
Blowing a hoolie on top with loads of spindrift and very poor visibility. Baled out down to Llanberris where two very kind climbers walking down to the village from their club hut offered us a lift back up the pass. If they should read this - thank you very much.
Some photos from the weekend. http://www.flickr.com/photos/midlander65/
Saturday. Cwm Idwal with the crowds.
Introductory Gully was OK but the ice lower down could have been more solid.
The ice in Central Route was good but the snow higher up wasn't very consolidated.
Sunday Cwm Glas.
Sergeant's Gully. Big holes in the ice through which you could see the waterfall. Ice good but stretches of unconsolidated snow.
Sinister Gully. Ice in the steep Icy groove was good but above that it was just poor snow and very weak hoar frost all the way. Really needs a bit of thaw and re-freeze.
Blowing a hoolie on top with loads of spindrift and very poor visibility. Baled out down to Llanberris where two very kind climbers walking down to the village from their club hut offered us a lift back up the pass. If they should read this - thank you very much.
In reply to NathanP:
You must have followed us on same itiniary, surprising amount of non-frozen turf in Sinister, care needed with placements
Top Tip: descend down the railway to Clogwyn Station then down Cwm Hattiau (sp?) and you will pass Railway Butress with some of the best looking icefalls ni the Valley, andf a lot better than flogging up to it from the road.
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge)
>.>
> Sunday Cwm Glas.
> Sergeant's Gully. Big holes in the ice through which you could see the waterfall. Ice good but stretches of unconsolidated snow.
> Sinister Gully. Ice in the steep Icy groove was good but above that it was just poor snow and very weak hoar frost all the way. Really needs a bit of thaw and re-freeze.
>
> Blowing a hoolie on top with loads of spindrift and very poor visibility. Baled out down to Llanberris .
> Sunday Cwm Glas.
> Sergeant's Gully. Big holes in the ice through which you could see the waterfall. Ice good but stretches of unconsolidated snow.
> Sinister Gully. Ice in the steep Icy groove was good but above that it was just poor snow and very weak hoar frost all the way. Really needs a bit of thaw and re-freeze.
>
> Blowing a hoolie on top with loads of spindrift and very poor visibility. Baled out down to Llanberris .
You must have followed us on same itiniary, surprising amount of non-frozen turf in Sinister, care needed with placements
Top Tip: descend down the railway to Clogwyn Station then down Cwm Hattiau (sp?) and you will pass Railway Butress with some of the best looking icefalls ni the Valley, andf a lot better than flogging up to it from the road.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: to hijack this thread a bit-if anybody finds a black diamond express ice screw with pink nail varnish in the crease, lost on the descent from black ladders on saturday please message me- a beer and good karma as a reward! thanks
9 Day Weather Forecast for 1089m altitude:
Days 0-3 Weather Summary:
A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. Temperatures will be below freezing (max -1°C on Tue morning, min -5°C on Tue night). Winds decreasing (near gales from the SE on Tue morning, light winds from the WNW by Wed afternoon).
Days 4-6 Weather Summary:
A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Sat morning. Becoming milder with light rain (total 5.0mm) on Sat afternoon . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 3°C on Fri afternoon, min -2°C on Sun night). Winds decreasing (gales from the SSE on Fri night, calm by Sun night).
Days 7-9 Weather Summary:
A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. Freeze-thaw conditions (max 2°C on Mon morning, min -3°C on Wed afternoon). Winds increasing (calm on Mon morning, fresh winds from the SSE by Tue night).
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
9 Day Weather Forecast for 708m altitude:
Days 0-3 Weather Summary:
A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. Freeze-thaw conditions (max 1°C on Thu night, min -3°C on Tue night). Winds decreasing (strong winds from the SE on Tue morning, calm by Wed afternoon).
Days 4-6 Weather Summary:
A dusting of snow giving way to moderate rain (total 13.0mm) heaviest on Sat morning . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 4°C on Fri afternoon, min 0°C on Sun night). Winds decreasing (near gales from the SSE on Fri night, calm by Sun night).
Days 7-9 Weather Summary:
A dusting of new snow. Freeze-thaw conditions (max 4°C on Mon morning, min -1°C on Wed afternoon). Wind will be generally light.
Days 0-3 Weather Summary:
A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. Temperatures will be below freezing (max -1°C on Tue morning, min -5°C on Tue night). Winds decreasing (near gales from the SE on Tue morning, light winds from the WNW by Wed afternoon).
Days 4-6 Weather Summary:
A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Sat morning. Becoming milder with light rain (total 5.0mm) on Sat afternoon . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 3°C on Fri afternoon, min -2°C on Sun night). Winds decreasing (gales from the SSE on Fri night, calm by Sun night).
Days 7-9 Weather Summary:
A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. Freeze-thaw conditions (max 2°C on Mon morning, min -3°C on Wed afternoon). Winds increasing (calm on Mon morning, fresh winds from the SSE by Tue night).
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
9 Day Weather Forecast for 708m altitude:
Days 0-3 Weather Summary:
A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. Freeze-thaw conditions (max 1°C on Thu night, min -3°C on Tue night). Winds decreasing (strong winds from the SE on Tue morning, calm by Wed afternoon).
Days 4-6 Weather Summary:
A dusting of snow giving way to moderate rain (total 13.0mm) heaviest on Sat morning . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 4°C on Fri afternoon, min 0°C on Sun night). Winds decreasing (near gales from the SSE on Fri night, calm by Sun night).
Days 7-9 Weather Summary:
A dusting of new snow. Freeze-thaw conditions (max 4°C on Mon morning, min -1°C on Wed afternoon). Wind will be generally light.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
slightly off topic but can anyone recommend a good cheap B&B in betws y coed. Also one that will serve an early breakfast (around 7am) would be nice
slightly off topic but can anyone recommend a good cheap B&B in betws y coed. Also one that will serve an early breakfast (around 7am) would be nice
In reply to bigstu31s:
Glan Aber pub has a bunkhouse out back - you actually get your own room for two with a bunkbed. I think it used to be £14 including a cooked brekkie but can't vouch for what time they serve.
Glan Aber pub has a bunkhouse out back - you actually get your own room for two with a bunkbed. I think it used to be £14 including a cooked brekkie but can't vouch for what time they serve.
In reply to RobE:
thanks i've just emailed them regarding the beds as I am tall and its important that the beds do not have a bottom bedstead
thanks i've just emailed them regarding the beds as I am tall and its important that the beds do not have a bottom bedstead
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Anyone been mad enough to go anywhere Trinity gullies in last day or two?
Any conditions info would be much appreciated.
Anyone been mad enough to go anywhere Trinity gullies in last day or two?
Any conditions info would be much appreciated.
In reply to trek:
Freeze thaw, freeze thaw....
Yay, me hopes conditions will be just about perfect when I am back in the UK on the 16th
Any updates peeps? Whats happening over there?
> 9 Day Weather Forecast for 1089m altitude:
>
> Days 0-3 Weather Summary:
> A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. Temperatures will be below freezing (max -1°C on Tue morning, min -5°C on Tue night). Winds decreasing (near gales from the SE on Tue morning, light winds from the WNW by Wed afternoon).
>
> Days 4-6 Weather Summary:
> A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Sat morning. Becoming milder with light rain (total 5.0mm) on Sat afternoon . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 3°C on Fri afternoon, min -2°C on Sun night). Winds decreasing (gales from the SSE on Fri night, calm by Sun night).
>
> Days 7-9 Weather Summary:
> A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. Freeze-thaw conditions (max 2°C on Mon morning, min -3°C on Wed afternoon). Winds increasing (calm on Mon morning, fresh winds from the SSE by Tue night).
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> 9 Day Weather Forecast for 708m altitude:
>
> Days 0-3 Weather Summary:
> A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. Freeze-thaw conditions (max 1°C on Thu night, min -3°C on Tue night). Winds decreasing (strong winds from the SE on Tue morning, calm by Wed afternoon).
>
> Days 4-6 Weather Summary:
> A dusting of snow giving way to moderate rain (total 13.0mm) heaviest on Sat morning . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 4°C on Fri afternoon, min 0°C on Sun night). Winds decreasing (near gales from the SSE on Fri night, calm by Sun night).
>
> Days 7-9 Weather Summary:
> A dusting of new snow. Freeze-thaw conditions (max 4°C on Mon morning, min -1°C on Wed afternoon). Wind will be generally light.
>
> Days 0-3 Weather Summary:
> A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. Temperatures will be below freezing (max -1°C on Tue morning, min -5°C on Tue night). Winds decreasing (near gales from the SE on Tue morning, light winds from the WNW by Wed afternoon).
>
> Days 4-6 Weather Summary:
> A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Sat morning. Becoming milder with light rain (total 5.0mm) on Sat afternoon . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 3°C on Fri afternoon, min -2°C on Sun night). Winds decreasing (gales from the SSE on Fri night, calm by Sun night).
>
> Days 7-9 Weather Summary:
> A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. Freeze-thaw conditions (max 2°C on Mon morning, min -3°C on Wed afternoon). Winds increasing (calm on Mon morning, fresh winds from the SSE by Tue night).
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> 9 Day Weather Forecast for 708m altitude:
>
> Days 0-3 Weather Summary:
> A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. Freeze-thaw conditions (max 1°C on Thu night, min -3°C on Tue night). Winds decreasing (strong winds from the SE on Tue morning, calm by Wed afternoon).
>
> Days 4-6 Weather Summary:
> A dusting of snow giving way to moderate rain (total 13.0mm) heaviest on Sat morning . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 4°C on Fri afternoon, min 0°C on Sun night). Winds decreasing (near gales from the SSE on Fri night, calm by Sun night).
>
> Days 7-9 Weather Summary:
> A dusting of new snow. Freeze-thaw conditions (max 4°C on Mon morning, min -1°C on Wed afternoon). Wind will be generally light.
Freeze thaw, freeze thaw....
Yay, me hopes conditions will be just about perfect when I am back in the UK on the 16th
Any updates peeps? Whats happening over there?
In reply to RobE:
I think Glan Aber is more like £20 without breakfast now, I was looking earlier this week but can't remember for certain.
I think Glan Aber is more like £20 without breakfast now, I was looking earlier this week but can't remember for certain.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Any updates on conditions folks? I guess most of the ice is not in great condition?
Any updates on conditions folks? I guess most of the ice is not in great condition?
Bit of a thaw going on in the Conwy valley today. However still good skiing touring to be had above 300 metres on the Carneddau. Had a few days out over xmas/new year and last weekend. See youtube.com/watch?v=0LFc30z6PGc& Unfortunately need to get in there quickly I think and visibility looks like it could be an issue this weekend!!
In reply to jonig: NIce vid....you luck bu##ers! thinking of bringing skis up at the weekend but as you say may be a bit late. Not sure if Berwyns may offer as good sport as Carneddau.....we'll see. Manflu may yet win
In reply to earlsdonhammer:
Anybody got any up to date info on North Wales road conditions at the mo?
Thanks.
Anybody got any up to date info on North Wales road conditions at the mo?
Thanks.
In reply to Richard123: Just got back from Ogwen and the road through to Betws then corwen was fine. Around Llangollen not too good.
Was out On central route - sugary ice not that great really a bit slushy
The screen - melting and slushy on the first pitch, dripping when I left.
Enjoy - loads of people out today on everything in Idwal!
Was out On central route - sugary ice not that great really a bit slushy
The screen - melting and slushy on the first pitch, dripping when I left.
Enjoy - loads of people out today on everything in Idwal!
Given the choice of heading to Snowdonia this weekend or next weekend, is the smart money on grabbing what I can get this weekend, or hoping for some freeze-thaw to get gullies into better nick for next weekend?
There will be a High Avalanche Hazard in Snowdonia this weekend so take care in your route travel.
Over the last 24hours a significant amount of new snow has fallen at all levels. Yesterday the A5 was only passable by 4x4 and the Llanberis Pass was closed.
Last night SARDA Wales were called to search an avalanche site at Aber Falls. A lit headtorch had been found but fortunately no person attached to it. Whilst probing the snow was 5 metres deep in places.
In addition to the large accumulation of new snow temperatures are set to rise over the weekend. This will cause the snow to melt and water will add to the weight of the snowpack and undermine its stability. The ground will remain frozen so the water will have nowhere to go other than under the snowpack. The water running under the snowpack will further undermine its stability. Unstable windslab has formed on may aspects due to cross loading.
Be safe!
Rob Johnson MIC
Over the last 24hours a significant amount of new snow has fallen at all levels. Yesterday the A5 was only passable by 4x4 and the Llanberis Pass was closed.
Last night SARDA Wales were called to search an avalanche site at Aber Falls. A lit headtorch had been found but fortunately no person attached to it. Whilst probing the snow was 5 metres deep in places.
In addition to the large accumulation of new snow temperatures are set to rise over the weekend. This will cause the snow to melt and water will add to the weight of the snowpack and undermine its stability. The ground will remain frozen so the water will have nowhere to go other than under the snowpack. The water running under the snowpack will further undermine its stability. Unstable windslab has formed on may aspects due to cross loading.
Be safe!
Rob Johnson MIC
In reply to Rob Johnson:
To add to Rob's post, there has also been a substantial full depth avalanche some 150 metres wide on the west side of Y Garn, above the village of Nant Peris, which is very visible form the road between Llanberis and Nant Peris.
To add to Rob's post, there has also been a substantial full depth avalanche some 150 metres wide on the west side of Y Garn, above the village of Nant Peris, which is very visible form the road between Llanberis and Nant Peris.
In reply to Rob Johnson:
Any updates on condition of A5 between Capel-Ogwen?
Local news says open but hazardous
Any updates on condition of A5 between Capel-Ogwen?
Local news says open but hazardous
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
the big question is ... would it be worth travelling to wales at the weekend? any thoughts please?
the big question is ... would it be worth travelling to wales at the weekend? any thoughts please?
In reply to j_duds:
The forecast isn't good, rain and thawing snow. I'm not planning anything major based on that.
The forecast isn't good, rain and thawing snow. I'm not planning anything major based on that.
In reply to woodsy:
Road is clear. However, at 5:00pm this evening (Thurs) it was thawing at Pen y Pass. Forecast for tomorrow (Fri) is for rain and freezing level above the summits.
Ian.
Road is clear. However, at 5:00pm this evening (Thurs) it was thawing at Pen y Pass. Forecast for tomorrow (Fri) is for rain and freezing level above the summits.
Ian.
In reply to Thickhead:
yeah i'm seeing the same forecast - wondered if anything may be left in condition! but with the forecasted rising freezing levels...
yeah i'm seeing the same forecast - wondered if anything may be left in condition! but with the forecasted rising freezing levels...
In reply to Elfyn - A+C Officer For Wales: Hmmm, I was going to head up but may not bother now. I could do with a rest anyway so I'll pray for a freeze next week
In reply to j_duds:
Not if you are coming here for ice, no. Several degres above freezing predicted for the next few days.
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge)
>
> the big question is ... would it be worth travelling to wales at the weekend? any thoughts please?
>
> the big question is ... would it be worth travelling to wales at the weekend? any thoughts please?
Not if you are coming here for ice, no. Several degres above freezing predicted for the next few days.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Friday in Idwal, loads of ice, actually i have never seen this much ice in idwal and i have lived here 15 years
Temps not that warm, freezing in carpark at 4.30 pm this eve.
Lots of action. appendix done by 4 teams etc, kitchen hooking all the way
not a great forecast on friday in view of temp, but get out early
Friday in Idwal, loads of ice, actually i have never seen this much ice in idwal and i have lived here 15 years
Temps not that warm, freezing in carpark at 4.30 pm this eve.
Lots of action. appendix done by 4 teams etc, kitchen hooking all the way
not a great forecast on friday in view of temp, but get out early
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: out in cwm cneifion today. There were some signs of debris falling. Snow was deep in places and was not well bonded. Plenty of stuff to do. But think I will be keeping to the ridges for a while!!
In reply to highlander1: was it a small area of debris just right of the track in to the upper cwm? if so its prob from me digging a snowhole on monday, althought i wouldnt be surprised if there has been avalanche activity up in the cwm.
be careful out there.
paul
be careful out there.
paul
On Monday, after anther cracking day on the Black Ladders James and I cocked up massively. He left a DMM Rebel Ice too and I left a brand new pair of BD poles, by our car in Gerlan. As soon as we realised we drove straight back someone had already picked them up.
If the person who found them reads this can we please have out gear back?
We'll each buy you a pint or two in return!
Cheers,
Tom Ripley 07760992614
If the person who found them reads this can we please have out gear back?
We'll each buy you a pint or two in return!
Cheers,
Tom Ripley 07760992614
In reply to pwood: Hi Paul. the debis was on the left side of the cwm between Flake Gully and Curver II so it was quite wide only small windslab debris really but just worth noting especially with the predicted thaw. however the forcast was a bit out today it said we should be clagged in all day. however good vis and occasion hill fog in the cwm and surrounding tops.
In reply to highlander1: Just to add to my post above this came in this morning from a friend of mine who is on the Llanberis MRT and a helicopter instructor at RAF Valley:
Just thought I'd take this opportunity to warn you all of what would appear to be a significant avalanche risk at the mo.
I had the opportunity today to fly for an hour and a half in the hills (not checking out conditions, honest!). What I saw was quite frightening. There was a significant full depth avalanche on the ridge line directly above Nant on the ridge between Cwm Dudodyn and Llyn y Cwn, grid 614 584. Debris was almost down to Nant and it had a 3' headwall. I saw plenty of significant fractures on the ridge line on Esgair Felen, Glyder Fawr towards Llyn y Cwn also, grid 633 583. I think that there will be plenty of slips to come, especially so with the warmer/wetter weather forecast this weekend. Just thought it worth a warning if anyone is planning to make the best of the weather before it craps out this weekend. However the met office at Valley is quite confident that it will start to get very cold again next week though (probably means that we are in for a heat wave then!)
On a positive side though, the kitchen, Black Ladders and anything on the side of the Valley with the name I shan't mention! Looks fantastic. Great ski touring to be had in the Carneddau.
Be safe out there.
Just thought I'd take this opportunity to warn you all of what would appear to be a significant avalanche risk at the mo.
I had the opportunity today to fly for an hour and a half in the hills (not checking out conditions, honest!). What I saw was quite frightening. There was a significant full depth avalanche on the ridge line directly above Nant on the ridge between Cwm Dudodyn and Llyn y Cwn, grid 614 584. Debris was almost down to Nant and it had a 3' headwall. I saw plenty of significant fractures on the ridge line on Esgair Felen, Glyder Fawr towards Llyn y Cwn also, grid 633 583. I think that there will be plenty of slips to come, especially so with the warmer/wetter weather forecast this weekend. Just thought it worth a warning if anyone is planning to make the best of the weather before it craps out this weekend. However the met office at Valley is quite confident that it will start to get very cold again next week though (probably means that we are in for a heat wave then!)
On a positive side though, the kitchen, Black Ladders and anything on the side of the Valley with the name I shan't mention! Looks fantastic. Great ski touring to be had in the Carneddau.
Be safe out there.
In reply to Rob Johnson: Keep up Rob
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=389875&v=1#x5627360
You can see it clearly from the Vaynol, looks a big slip.
Snow dissapearing rapidly at the moment, couldn't believe the difference last night to this morning.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=389875&v=1#x5627360
You can see it clearly from the Vaynol, looks a big slip.
Snow dissapearing rapidly at the moment, couldn't believe the difference last night to this morning.
In reply to Rob Johnson:
On the news page Rob:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51286
> (In reply to highlander1) Just to add to my post above this came in this morning from a friend of mine who is on the Llanberis MRT and a helicopter instructor at RAF Valley:
On the news page Rob:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51286
In reply to IainRUK:
Is it just valley bottoms that are melting or is it happening to a significant height? Also I'm assuming that if there is a thaw on then the roads around Capel Curig and Llanberis are now clear?
Is it just valley bottoms that are melting or is it happening to a significant height? Also I'm assuming that if there is a thaw on then the roads around Capel Curig and Llanberis are now clear?
In reply to Reach>Talent: Raining in Llanberis at the moment. No snow on the roads at all.
Wet wet wet. Doh.
Jack
Wet wet wet. Doh.
Jack
In reply to Reach>Talent: Yeah as Jack says no snow at all lower down. Even the upper slopes of Elidir has grass showing so looks like a thaw at all levels but haven't been up high since Wednesday. Last night there was still lots of ice around ~400m, but I doubt that's surviving.
Typical Nant weather again..
Typical Nant weather again..
In reply to IainRUK:
Oh sod it, I may grab the rest of my rack and my rockshoes before I head up and go and play in the slate quarries instead
Oh sod it, I may grab the rest of my rack and my rockshoes before I head up and go and play in the slate quarries instead
In reply to Reach>Talent: Sunday looks like it could be an OK day.
In reply to IainRUK:
Hi Iain,
What is the general state of the roads West? we are in a hut down by Tremadog this weekend and I'm trying to work out the best way to get there from Cambridge. Normally I'd go over the tops from Shrewsbury to Bala but I guess that might not be an option at the moment.
Hi Iain,
What is the general state of the roads West? we are in a hut down by Tremadog this weekend and I'm trying to work out the best way to get there from Cambridge. Normally I'd go over the tops from Shrewsbury to Bala but I guess that might not be an option at the moment.
In reply to IainRUK:
Yes sunday looks ok, pity the freezing level is forecast to be about 900m. The rock gear is definitely going into the car.
Yes sunday looks ok, pity the freezing level is forecast to be about 900m. The rock gear is definitely going into the car.
In reply to GrahamD: Not sure, all the roads on the coasts are fine, but I think that area got hit a bit harder than we did. XC at Wrexham was cancelled for this weekend due to snow.
We'd normally go M54 > Shrewsbury, A5 > A483 > Wrexham > A55 and down the coast, but Tremadogs further south than us.
It's another 30-40 minutes longer to Tremadog though.
I'd be suprised if any of the roads over the top are clear. Never know though.
We'd normally go M54 > Shrewsbury, A5 > A483 > Wrexham > A55 and down the coast, but Tremadogs further south than us.
It's another 30-40 minutes longer to Tremadog though.
I'd be suprised if any of the roads over the top are clear. Never know though.
In reply to IainRUK: Looking at the BBC site though, seems like most of the A roads are open.
In reply to IainRUK:
All the roads around Ffestiniog are open, apart from the B road over from Bala. Getting to Tremadog won't be a problem.
All the roads around Ffestiniog are open, apart from the B road over from Bala. Getting to Tremadog won't be a problem.
In reply to IainRUK:
Thanks Iain, I'll try to do some more internet digging but will probably just stick to the coast.
Thanks Iain, I'll try to do some more internet digging but will probably just stick to the coast.
In reply to GrahamD: llangolen to bala and on to the coast via a494 or a4212 are clear, its only the minor roads and lanes that are struggling.
In reply to IainRUK: just to put my mind at rest - as went to work rather than hitting the hills today.
IT is thawing, pissing down and windy in Snowdonia today. yes?
IT is thawing, pissing down and windy in Snowdonia today. yes?
In reply to Neil Anderson: Yes. This mornings dog walk was typical nant peris, horizontal rain, mud, high rivers.
In reply to GrahamD:
Fine mate. Yesterday (15th) I was climbing near Dinas Mawddwy (great day out - stolen from the teeth of the thaw) and drove from Welshpool on the A458 and A470 and they were both clean as a whistle
> What is the general state of the roads West?
Fine mate. Yesterday (15th) I was climbing near Dinas Mawddwy (great day out - stolen from the teeth of the thaw) and drove from Welshpool on the A458 and A470 and they were both clean as a whistle
In reply to Thickhead: It is out on Angelsey, I'm going for a run out here in the tropical climate of the island tonight rather than brave the Nant Peris wind and rain...
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Well, my train ticket is booked already and I'll soon be heading for N Wales. Will anything be in?
Well, my train ticket is booked already and I'll soon be heading for N Wales. Will anything be in?
In reply to Lightweight:
Staggered up Siabod this morning. Raining hard on the summit and the snow is all very soggy. The last few hundred feet involved floundering about in knee deep wet porridge.
If it freezes again it should be very good. However, I was surprised at how fast the rain was stripping the snow. The river outside the Bryn Tyrch has already almost burst its banks.
Ian.
Staggered up Siabod this morning. Raining hard on the summit and the snow is all very soggy. The last few hundred feet involved floundering about in knee deep wet porridge.
If it freezes again it should be very good. However, I was surprised at how fast the rain was stripping the snow. The river outside the Bryn Tyrch has already almost burst its banks.
Ian.
In reply to IainRUK:
It does feel warm doesn't it?! If I had my shorts with me I would have been much more comfortable running in them. First time without hat and gloves for a while too.
It does feel warm doesn't it?! If I had my shorts with me I would have been much more comfortable running in them. First time without hat and gloves for a while too.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Amazing how much snow has gone now, hardly anything in the Conwy Valley. Yesterday people were cross country skiing on the Marin Trail in Gwydir Forest, today no snow to be seen hardly!
Amazing how much snow has gone now, hardly anything in the Conwy Valley. Yesterday people were cross country skiing on the Marin Trail in Gwydir Forest, today no snow to be seen hardly!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Snow here in the Machynlleth area stripped away up to about 250m. Before sundown I had a brief glimpse of the higher hills & these still well covered, but 25-40mm of rain on the morrow/freezing level above summits is going to strip a lot more away I'm afraid.....
There WAS an awful lot of drifted snow in hollows yesterday - see:
http://www.geologywales.co.uk/storms/winter0910c.htm
Cheers - John
Snow here in the Machynlleth area stripped away up to about 250m. Before sundown I had a brief glimpse of the higher hills & these still well covered, but 25-40mm of rain on the morrow/freezing level above summits is going to strip a lot more away I'm afraid.....
There WAS an awful lot of drifted snow in hollows yesterday - see:
http://www.geologywales.co.uk/storms/winter0910c.htm
Cheers - John
In reply to IainRUK: thanks thought as much. right call for once....fingers crossed for the next spell, after all it's only the 15th Jan..
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
temps are below summits on sunday, good be good for some neve high up
temps are below summits on sunday, good be good for some neve high up
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Got out today. Lots of snow melted low down. Headed into Cwm Lloer and climbed Hourglass Gully. There was some avalanche debris at the base of the gully and elsewhere in the cwm, so I moved right beyond the narrows. Photos here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623221146770/
At some point in the gully one of my crampons came off and fell back down. If anyone heads up that way it will be out to the right of the gully towards more mixed ground. If anyone comes across it (unlikely!) then beer money will make its way towards you!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623221146770/
At some point in the gully one of my crampons came off and fell back down. If anyone heads up that way it will be out to the right of the gully towards more mixed ground. If anyone comes across it (unlikely!) then beer money will make its way towards you!
In reply to Touching Centauri:
what condition was the snow in?
might head out that way tomorrow, if so will keep my eyes open
cheers
paul
what condition was the snow in?
might head out that way tomorrow, if so will keep my eyes open
cheers
paul
In reply to Dr.Strangeglove: Not good really. Deep and soft still. Had a look at the layers at the top of the gully and the snow seemed a little unstable.
The main thing that struck me being out today was just how warm the temperature felt. Seems strange after these weeks of cold. There were also two people in Broad Gully, but they must have topped out before us. Big group of about 10 from Plas y Brenin doing winter skills in the cwm too.
The main thing that struck me being out today was just how warm the temperature felt. Seems strange after these weeks of cold. There were also two people in Broad Gully, but they must have topped out before us. Big group of about 10 from Plas y Brenin doing winter skills in the cwm too.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
I'm heading up for a long weekend in the middle of Feb. Hope snow and ice is back.
I'm heading up for a long weekend in the middle of Feb. Hope snow and ice is back.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: completely off the subject but nearly 34,000 views! blimey :0)
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Photo today from Bangor Pier showing how much snow is left on the Black Ladders:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/4281907960/sizes/o/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/4281907960/sizes/o/
In reply to Touching Centauri:
Jesus!!
Its stripped!
Bang goes getting Pyramid gully in, well unless we have another dump & cold spell!!
Allan
Jesus!!
Its stripped!
Bang goes getting Pyramid gully in, well unless we have another dump & cold spell!!
Allan
In reply to vincentvega:
Mm was thinking of something along those lines myself for tomorrow, might rethink now.
Anyone been out today (sunday)? Any info/recommendations on where I should head to?
> (In reply to Touching Centauri)
>
> Jesus!!
>
> Its stripped!
>
> Bang goes getting Pyramid gully in, well unless we have another dump & cold spell!!
>
> Allan
>
> Jesus!!
>
> Its stripped!
>
> Bang goes getting Pyramid gully in, well unless we have another dump & cold spell!!
>
> Allan
Mm was thinking of something along those lines myself for tomorrow, might rethink now.
Anyone been out today (sunday)? Any info/recommendations on where I should head to?
In reply to trek:
Took a wander into Cwm Lloer yesterday and up Broard Gully,then over the tops to Carnedd Llewelyn. The snow in broard gully and the hill was soft and wet. We spoke to 2 guys who had been down to have a look at the Ladders and they said conditions were poor. A good freeze now would produce some really good neve as there is still a good amount of snow up there in places.
Took a wander into Cwm Lloer yesterday and up Broard Gully,then over the tops to Carnedd Llewelyn. The snow in broard gully and the hill was soft and wet. We spoke to 2 guys who had been down to have a look at the Ladders and they said conditions were poor. A good freeze now would produce some really good neve as there is still a good amount of snow up there in places.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
For anyone looking for alternatives, we had a brilliant day out on Cyfrwy Arete in big boots on Saturday and got too hot climbing at Tremadog on Sunday. Just didn't look like it was worth getting the crampons out to get them going rusty !
For anyone looking for alternatives, we had a brilliant day out on Cyfrwy Arete in big boots on Saturday and got too hot climbing at Tremadog on Sunday. Just didn't look like it was worth getting the crampons out to get them going rusty !
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
It's a shame, but it's been awesome. Might not be over just yet, winter isn't over by a long chalk.
It's a shame, but it's been awesome. Might not be over just yet, winter isn't over by a long chalk.
In reply to GrahamD: People were topping out from the Glyders, can't imagine it would have been much cop, it was very slushy even right on the summits. The descent down to Llyn Y Cwn was just slushy snow all the way.
People were still wearing crampons up the glyders but can't imagine they'd be that much help in the mush, we were fine running down with our trainers on. We had axes just in case we needed them but they were redundant too. Hard going TBH.
Quite surprising how aggressive Fridays thaw was. The summit of Elidir Fawr is all but free of snow.
People were still wearing crampons up the glyders but can't imagine they'd be that much help in the mush, we were fine running down with our trainers on. We had axes just in case we needed them but they were redundant too. Hard going TBH.
Quite surprising how aggressive Fridays thaw was. The summit of Elidir Fawr is all but free of snow.
In reply to IainRUK:
Some of our party were climbing slush on Snowdon somewhere. I reckon our plan B was a lot better !
Some of our party were climbing slush on Snowdon somewhere. I reckon our plan B was a lot better !
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
I will be going up Snowdon on Friday and possibly Saturday too, in the current conditions is an Ice Axe essential?
I notice snow is forecast again this week at the summit according to this website http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Snowdon/6day/top so I guess the summit is still fairly snowy?
I will be going up Snowdon on Friday and possibly Saturday too, in the current conditions is an Ice Axe essential?
I notice snow is forecast again this week at the summit according to this website http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Snowdon/6day/top so I guess the summit is still fairly snowy?
In reply to bigstu31s:
Not essential but if you've got one may as well carry it, if you haven't I wouldn't worry about getting one but if you came across anything potentially dangerous then turn back.
Not essential but if you've got one may as well carry it, if you haven't I wouldn't worry about getting one but if you came across anything potentially dangerous then turn back.
In reply to bigstu31s: Yeah i'd still carry one. Freezing level will be falling for a time, more snow possibly.
Although crampons axe probably won't be needed if I was walking I'd just carry the, not much extra weight.
With running you know you'll be up and down within 3-4 hrs, so haev a good idea of freezing level and are also pickier on how much to carry.
Later in the day when temps drop it could refreeze.
Although crampons axe probably won't be needed if I was walking I'd just carry the, not much extra weight.
With running you know you'll be up and down within 3-4 hrs, so haev a good idea of freezing level and are also pickier on how much to carry.
Later in the day when temps drop it could refreeze.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Yeasterday we scrambled the grade one on eastern side of Pen yr Ole Wen (icy) then over the tops to Carnedd llewelyn and down the path from the ridge to the reservoir and down the reservoir track.
It was slushy in most placed but freezing on the summits.
Yeasterday we scrambled the grade one on eastern side of Pen yr Ole Wen (icy) then over the tops to Carnedd llewelyn and down the path from the ridge to the reservoir and down the reservoir track.
It was slushy in most placed but freezing on the summits.
In reply to Katie86: Surprised at that, the snow wasn't slushy on the summits? We ran over Glyder Fawr and Fach and it was cool in the wind, but the snow was slush even at the highest sections. I know it's another 80m higher but it felt a good few degrees above freezing.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Been over crib goch today, then dropped in to have a look at conds on trinities.
All wet & slushy at all levels. The odd bit of ice, but 95% wet slush.
Been over crib goch today, then dropped in to have a look at conds on trinities.
All wet & slushy at all levels. The odd bit of ice, but 95% wet slush.
In reply to trek: Will have look on Wednesday - you out? Could share a lift from Connah's Quay...
In reply to IainRUK:
On the north side of Pen yr Ole wen when decending to Carnedd Fach it was icy. I wouldn't say it was slushy except on the ridge coming down from Carnedd Llewelyn and all the way down the the reservoir.
I spoke to someone of the wirral/liverpool train this morning who had been on the glyders at the weekend and he said that was very disapointingly slushy on the glyders.
> (In reply to Katie86) Surprised at that, the snow wasn't slushy on the summits? We ran over Glyder Fawr and Fach and it was cool in the wind, but the snow was slush even at the highest sections. I know it's another 80m higher but it felt a good few degrees above freezing.
On the north side of Pen yr Ole wen when decending to Carnedd Fach it was icy. I wouldn't say it was slushy except on the ridge coming down from Carnedd Llewelyn and all the way down the the reservoir.
I spoke to someone of the wirral/liverpool train this morning who had been on the glyders at the weekend and he said that was very disapointingly slushy on the glyders.
In reply to Katie86: Some pics, I was surprised just how aggressive the thaw was. Even right on the glyder summits, when you swing around the castle it was really slushy.
http://sarzmountainrun.blogspot.com/
http://sarzmountainrun.blogspot.com/
In reply to Dee:
Out biking on wed, but heading into Snowdonia thurs if that is any good to you?
> (In reply to trek) Will have look on Wednesday - you out? Could share a lift from Connah's Quay...
Out biking on wed, but heading into Snowdonia thurs if that is any good to you?
In reply to IainRUK:
Off topic but....
Do you rate skins for running Iain? I notice your wife has got a pair. Do they actually make a difference for running/recovery? Are the blue (insulated ones I think) any good?
Off topic but....
Do you rate skins for running Iain? I notice your wife has got a pair. Do they actually make a difference for running/recovery? Are the blue (insulated ones I think) any good?
In reply to galpinos: We both where them now. My wife has the 'travel skins', the thicker ones and really rates them, she wears them for general running in the cold, skins can be a bit thin for winter fell running unless you're pushing it.
But I do think they save damage from the movement of the muscles, especially the quads which are really flung around. For 100K's I now use the longer shorts and find my quads really survive far better.
But I do think they save damage from the movement of the muscles, especially the quads which are really flung around. For 100K's I now use the longer shorts and find my quads really survive far better.
In reply to bigstu31s:
It's forecast to be much colder on Wednesday/Thursday with freezing level down possibly as low as 200m. If the existing snow pack re-freezes (seems likely) then I wouldn't risk going onto the hills without an axe.
There's also more snow on the way to complicate things further...
It's forecast to be much colder on Wednesday/Thursday with freezing level down possibly as low as 200m. If the existing snow pack re-freezes (seems likely) then I wouldn't risk going onto the hills without an axe.
There's also more snow on the way to complicate things further...
Does anyone know what the conditions are like up on the Black ladders at the moment, got a trip planned for friday, we will be traveling 4 hours to get there so could do with finding out whether its worth the trip!
In reply to IainRUK:
Thanks for relpying Iain. I'm now where near to your level in running but get out a fair bit. Having started cycling to work and trying to keep the running up as well, I'm looking for anything that'll help my legs recover/survive better.
Looks like they might be worth looking into.
Cheers.
Thanks for relpying Iain. I'm now where near to your level in running but get out a fair bit. Having started cycling to work and trying to keep the running up as well, I'm looking for anything that'll help my legs recover/survive better.
Looks like they might be worth looking into.
Cheers.
In reply to Ben Gibbons: See my picture from Sunday further up the thread.
In reply to Toreador:
Yeah i've just seen the "severe weather warning" which the Met office seem to put out for even the smallest bit of snowfall.
I just realised that i've lost the strap that goes with my Ice Axe, will have to try and get to Betws y coed ealry on thursday so I can pop in to one of the shops there and get me one.
Does anyone know if they are open late on a Thursday?
Yeah i've just seen the "severe weather warning" which the Met office seem to put out for even the smallest bit of snowfall.
I just realised that i've lost the strap that goes with my Ice Axe, will have to try and get to Betws y coed ealry on thursday so I can pop in to one of the shops there and get me one.
Does anyone know if they are open late on a Thursday?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Does anyone know has the ice routes in Idwal/Clogwyn Du gone?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
I can tell you that Left hand gully on Clogwyn Du certainly isn't in as it wasn't holding any ice at the peak of the freeze so certainly won't be now. So much for the guidebook saying the route is often in when other stuff isn't!
I can tell you that Left hand gully on Clogwyn Du certainly isn't in as it wasn't holding any ice at the peak of the freeze so certainly won't be now. So much for the guidebook saying the route is often in when other stuff isn't!
In reply to Ralfy: Just a few smears left in Idwal on Sunday afternoon and it certainly hasnt been cold enough for them to rebuild - looked like plenty of snow still in Cneifion which should firm up with a freeze.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Can anyone tell me what the current and potential conditions for snow/ice around ogwen valley over the weekend looking like?
Can anyone tell me what the current and potential conditions for snow/ice around ogwen valley over the weekend looking like?
In reply to Ben Gibbons:
Snow was soft and wet on Sunday
> Does anyone know what the conditions are like up on the Black ladders at the moment, got a trip planned for friday, we will be traveling 4 hours to get there so could do with finding out whether its worth the trip!
Snow was soft and wet on Sunday
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Snow forecast for tomorrow. I might bimble into Cwm Cneifion tomorrow and swim up a gully!
Days 0-3 Weather Summary:
A dusting of snow turning to light rain (total 7.0mm) on Thu night . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 4°C on Tue morning, min 0°C on Wed morning). Winds decreasing (strong winds from the SSE on Tue night, light winds from the SE by Wed night).
Days 4-6 Weather Summary
Drizzle at first, then turning colder with dusting of snow on Sat afternoon . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 4°C on Fri morning, min -5°C on Sun night). Wind will be generally light.
Days 7-9 Weather Summary:
Mostly dry. Temperatures will be below freezing (max -3°C on Mon morning, min -7°C on Tue morning). Winds increasing (light winds from the ESE on Mon afternoon, strong winds from the SE by Thu morning).
A dusting of snow turning to light rain (total 7.0mm) on Thu night . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 4°C on Tue morning, min 0°C on Wed morning). Winds decreasing (strong winds from the SSE on Tue night, light winds from the SE by Wed night).
Days 4-6 Weather Summary
Drizzle at first, then turning colder with dusting of snow on Sat afternoon . Freeze-thaw conditions (max 4°C on Fri morning, min -5°C on Sun night). Wind will be generally light.
Days 7-9 Weather Summary:
Mostly dry. Temperatures will be below freezing (max -3°C on Mon morning, min -7°C on Tue morning). Winds increasing (light winds from the ESE on Mon afternoon, strong winds from the SE by Thu morning).
Has anybody been up Cadair Idris recently - just wondering what the snow level was, and depth/conditions. Also if anybody knows the condition of the gullys on the north side (Cyfrwy, Pen-Y-Gadair, and Twr Du)
Also what is the decent like - is it worth taking the skis up with me or is the snow patchy now? (yes i know this is a climbing forum!)
Also what is the decent like - is it worth taking the skis up with me or is the snow patchy now? (yes i know this is a climbing forum!)
In reply to jamescronin:
Give Huw Gilbert an email. You can find his email on his website http://www.climbmountains.co.uk/
He definetly will be able to answer your question, and definetly will not mind you emailing him to ask.
Just tell him 'Andy Mountains' told you to contact him.
Give Huw Gilbert an email. You can find his email on his website http://www.climbmountains.co.uk/
He definetly will be able to answer your question, and definetly will not mind you emailing him to ask.
Just tell him 'Andy Mountains' told you to contact him.
In reply to galpinos:
From some who's cycle commute seems to be just the right distance to make my legs really ache by Wednesday evening if I cycle each way every day - the is answer is: Ibuprofen. Plus a good single malt last thing once tucked up in bed with a good book.
That or taking the bus also seems to work well!
> Having started cycling to work and trying to keep the running up as well, I'm looking for anything that'll help my legs recover/survive better.
From some who's cycle commute seems to be just the right distance to make my legs really ache by Wednesday evening if I cycle each way every day - the is answer is: Ibuprofen. Plus a good single malt last thing once tucked up in bed with a good book.
That or taking the bus also seems to work well!
In reply to TobyA:
Ha ha, cheers for the tips Toby. I'm still not man enough to enjoy whisky yet, though I'm partial to a pansy bourbon!
It's not far to work, 7/8 miles each way so only about 30 mins. I'm just trying to get fit for a half marathon and a couple of Mountain Marathons so fancy getting some running in as well. I'm on alternate days driving and cycling but am going to sell my car soon so it'll be cyclig all the way!
> (In reply to galpinos)
> [...]
>
> From some who's cycle commute seems to be just the right distance to make my legs really ache by Wednesday evening if I cycle each way every day - the is answer is: Ibuprofen. Plus a good single malt last thing once tucked up in bed with a good book.
>
> That or taking the bus also seems to work well!
> [...]
>
> From some who's cycle commute seems to be just the right distance to make my legs really ache by Wednesday evening if I cycle each way every day - the is answer is: Ibuprofen. Plus a good single malt last thing once tucked up in bed with a good book.
>
> That or taking the bus also seems to work well!
Ha ha, cheers for the tips Toby. I'm still not man enough to enjoy whisky yet, though I'm partial to a pansy bourbon!
It's not far to work, 7/8 miles each way so only about 30 mins. I'm just trying to get fit for a half marathon and a couple of Mountain Marathons so fancy getting some running in as well. I'm on alternate days driving and cycling but am going to sell my car soon so it'll be cyclig all the way!
Looks like fresh snow on Elidir Fawr
In reply to jamescronin:
See post a bit higher. We did Cyfrwy Arete last Saturday in pretty good rock climbing conditions.
See post a bit higher. We did Cyfrwy Arete last Saturday in pretty good rock climbing conditions.
did central gully last sunday - snow complete bar the two steeper pitches where there was hard snow ice but now just two cheeky loose rock pitches! did go though.
In reply to xgriffin:
Anyone got any suggestions for winter scramble/walk this weekend in snowdon/ogwen area, no specifc winter rack but got the nuts etc - have crampons and axe.
Hoping for a bit of easy climb or at least a scramble sticking a bit of non winter specific pro in along the way. Navigation no concern, have the outdoor kit to stay safe/warm. So looking for little adventure up to 15km.
was thinking about going up devils kitchin and left onto glyderr fawr - or possible up pinnicle route (VD) on carnedd filiast and the left along to devils kitchin as descent.
Any thoughts please?
Anyone got any suggestions for winter scramble/walk this weekend in snowdon/ogwen area, no specifc winter rack but got the nuts etc - have crampons and axe.
Hoping for a bit of easy climb or at least a scramble sticking a bit of non winter specific pro in along the way. Navigation no concern, have the outdoor kit to stay safe/warm. So looking for little adventure up to 15km.
was thinking about going up devils kitchin and left onto glyderr fawr - or possible up pinnicle route (VD) on carnedd filiast and the left along to devils kitchin as descent.
Any thoughts please?
In reply to bigstu31s:
Would be a bit on the bulky side i would think, but if you dont mind that i dont see a reason why not.
Flat tape would be better.
Allan
Would be a bit on the bulky side i would think, but if you dont mind that i dont see a reason why not.
Flat tape would be better.
Allan
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I had plans to head into Cwm Cneifion to chase the remains of the snow, but on leaving Bangor this morning we discovered there had been a fresh snow fall. The snow starts just above Ogwen as a dusting, but gets deeper quickly.
It was snowing most of the time we were out, so we headed into Cwm Bochlwyd and climbed The False Gribin. The snow is still quite soft, but is certainly harder than the weekend, and on topping out at The Football Pitch there were some lovely solid patches. We vaguely considered heading up Y Gribin, but the mist was down and the wind strengthening so we called it a day.
Bodes well for the weekend. Photos to follow.
It was snowing most of the time we were out, so we headed into Cwm Bochlwyd and climbed The False Gribin. The snow is still quite soft, but is certainly harder than the weekend, and on topping out at The Football Pitch there were some lovely solid patches. We vaguely considered heading up Y Gribin, but the mist was down and the wind strengthening so we called it a day.
Bodes well for the weekend. Photos to follow.
In reply to major stabby: Have you an axe?
A elassic walk is Gerlan > Crib Lem Spur > Carnedd Dafydd, then around the ridge to either Yr Elen and down or Carnedd Uchaf and down the ridge to Drosgyl.
A elassic walk is Gerlan > Crib Lem Spur > Carnedd Dafydd, then around the ridge to either Yr Elen and down or Carnedd Uchaf and down the ridge to Drosgyl.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Photos from today:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623124485289/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623124485289/
I have been out with Jim today who is on my mentor scheme. It got cold overnight and had been snowing on the tops over about 300m. There was snow down to the road in Ogwen when I drove through this morning. Jim and I headed into Cwm Glas Bach on the Carneddau. This small Cwm sits above Llech Ddu and is North facing so holds the snow well. On the walk in the snow was simply fresh powder but once we got above about 700m the old snow patches stood upto our weight and gave us some nice neve to reach the base of our route, the Crib Lem (I/II). This is a beautiful little ridge that gave a lovely mountaineering route to the summit of Carnedd Dafydd. The snow was nicely consolidated underfoot, the rocks well rimed and the fresh snowfall that continued mot of the day added an extra air of winter to a great day out. There are photos on my blog if you are interested.
Rob
Rob
In reply to Rob Johnson: Sounds a cracker of the day.
We ran up to Drum tonight, surprised how slushy it was, very very wet, but then as you got above 600m we started to hit smaller patches of solid neve, but then patches of slush. Freezing level must have been around that as the fence was riming up. Some steep climbs out of rivers though which had cut through drifts.
What was the snow like as you headed around to the ridge? That's quite a slip off there if it's not in good condition isn't it? I was thinking tonight about that as I suggested it above. I've done it with bits of snow on, but in poor snow conditions that could be a serious route. Cracker of a route though.
We ran up to Drum tonight, surprised how slushy it was, very very wet, but then as you got above 600m we started to hit smaller patches of solid neve, but then patches of slush. Freezing level must have been around that as the fence was riming up. Some steep climbs out of rivers though which had cut through drifts.
What was the snow like as you headed around to the ridge? That's quite a slip off there if it's not in good condition isn't it? I was thinking tonight about that as I suggested it above. I've done it with bits of snow on, but in poor snow conditions that could be a serious route. Cracker of a route though.
As we rounded Llech Ddu the old snow was just collapsing under our feet so I thought we were out of luck but as we got higher it got colder and the snow was great. We reached the base of the cliffs and then headed left up the snow field towards the ridge and it was good hard neve - as you say a slip there would be a bad thing!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Heading up to Betws Y Coed this afternoon for a couple of days up Snowdon Friday and Saturday, has anyone been up the Miners or Pyg Track recently?
Just curious to know if its icy, Snowy or just the usual wet and windy
Heading up to Betws Y Coed this afternoon for a couple of days up Snowdon Friday and Saturday, has anyone been up the Miners or Pyg Track recently?
Just curious to know if its icy, Snowy or just the usual wet and windy
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Anyone if any desent riutes are in nick or is it just gully swimming?
Anyone if any desent riutes are in nick or is it just gully swimming?
In reply to balti boy: what he said!
In reply to Rob Johnson: Just back from Crib Lem after your report from yesterday (thanks for that). Things have softened further today with a thin layer of soft snow leading up scree to the main ridge. The main ridge itself wasn't too bad - sections of neve and frozen turf helping along the way .... certainly do-able and very enjoyable. From the top of the ridge leading up to the summit of Carnedd Dafydd there was good neve to be had. A bonus winter route.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: A day in Cwm Cneifion (sic) yesterday. East Wall gully is slushy and very tedious. Very, very wet. The path into the Cwm via Sub C Arete is good though. The lower Cwm is still slushy but conditions improve with altitude. Flake Gully was in reasonable nick and the Gribin Ridge was great. Corner Gully was in good nick and there is still enough ice on the rocks for Grade II fun along the backwall. Visibility was poor so I could not see Tower Slabs but I would be surprised if there was no ice considering the conditions in the rest of the upper Cwm. I was unable to see Hidden Gully.
Good neve in places at altitude but it is definitely melting slowly. No bad thing, perhaps, a cold snap and suddenly we will be plunged into perfect conditions.
There is plenty still available in the gullies or for the soloist.
Charlie
Good neve in places at altitude but it is definitely melting slowly. No bad thing, perhaps, a cold snap and suddenly we will be plunged into perfect conditions.
There is plenty still available in the gullies or for the soloist.
Charlie
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
I take it from the number of grade II / III
that it is all gully swimming and horrendous snow plods oh well
back to Scotland and fingers crossed again
I take it from the number of grade II / III
that it is all gully swimming and horrendous snow plods oh well
back to Scotland and fingers crossed again
In reply to balti boy: Yep, that's pretty much about it for the moment. A nice mountain day for the soloist but not much more. The ice in Idwal was considerably reduced and I heard a big chunck fall away as I was descending. Scotland is the way forward for the moment.
Charlie
Charlie
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
I was up in Cwm Glas area today.
Report & pics on my blog here: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
I was up in Cwm Glas area today.
Report & pics on my blog here: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Thanks for that Andy. I shall be out tomorrow but not sure if I'm walking or doing something a little more exciting.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Anyone been out today? I ended up doing a massive tramp round the back of Moel Siabod. Still snow on tops of the Glyders.
In reply to Mike Peacock: Been out on a rescue this evening on the Red Dot path above Pen Y Pass onto the Glyders (Llanberis side). We got upto about 750m and the snow was very soft, slushy and patchy at that level. A friend was on Moel Siabod and reported hard snow on the summit. Due to be colder tomorrow and sunny and then staying colder so it could get good over the next couple of days for snow and mixed routes.
In reply to Rob Johnson:
Anything left on the Trinity Face? Am thinking of taking a friend on Crib Goch tomorrow too, just wondered what the snow situation was like in that area - has anything survived the thaw?
cheers,
Mark.
Anything left on the Trinity Face? Am thinking of taking a friend on Crib Goch tomorrow too, just wondered what the snow situation was like in that area - has anything survived the thaw?
cheers,
Mark.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
We walked up Hourglass Gully (cwm ffynnon lloer) yesterday. Snow was deep and soft, got a bit harder near the top. Snow is getting a bit patchy lower down.
We walked up Hourglass Gully (cwm ffynnon lloer) yesterday. Snow was deep and soft, got a bit harder near the top. Snow is getting a bit patchy lower down.
In reply to groovejunkie: Have a look at the logbooks on here - I think someone climbed it yesterday.
Ben
Ben
In reply to groovejunkie:
I was on Crib Goch this morning; very pleasant if misty! A little fresh snow falling & covering the existing tracks. A cold wind is helping to stop the thaw. Snow was either hard neve where trodden down or slightly lighter but still holding together enough to take new kicked footsteps. Lots of hard neve at the tops of the gullies & altho' the viz was poor & I couldn't see Trinity Face/Clogwyn y Garnedd I would guess that it's in condition.
I was on Crib Goch this morning; very pleasant if misty! A little fresh snow falling & covering the existing tracks. A cold wind is helping to stop the thaw. Snow was either hard neve where trodden down or slightly lighter but still holding together enough to take new kicked footsteps. Lots of hard neve at the tops of the gullies & altho' the viz was poor & I couldn't see Trinity Face/Clogwyn y Garnedd I would guess that it's in condition.
In reply to geoff b:
Nice one, thanks Geoff.
Nice one, thanks Geoff.
In reply to groovejunkie:
Went up the End Gully side of the Trinity Face, nearest bit to Zig Zag's. Dug three hasty pits with aspects ranging from North Easterly through to Easterly all about 850'sih metres to 950'ish metres. This was about 10:30.
The snow had a 3-5cm layer of windslab with a 5-7cm layer of large crystal ice balls with water betwen the ice balls, each ice ball was about 4mm. Snow slushy with little to no sign of refreezing. When isolated the windslab moved with only a slight pull. Windslab broke off when footsteps were kicked close to each other.
At 975 to the summit ridge a layer of thresh snow about 2cm lay on the windslab. Did not look windblown the crystal structure appeared undamaged, through out the climb turf was unfrozen and rocks bare / black.
These are just my observations.
Happy days!
Went up the End Gully side of the Trinity Face, nearest bit to Zig Zag's. Dug three hasty pits with aspects ranging from North Easterly through to Easterly all about 850'sih metres to 950'ish metres. This was about 10:30.
The snow had a 3-5cm layer of windslab with a 5-7cm layer of large crystal ice balls with water betwen the ice balls, each ice ball was about 4mm. Snow slushy with little to no sign of refreezing. When isolated the windslab moved with only a slight pull. Windslab broke off when footsteps were kicked close to each other.
At 975 to the summit ridge a layer of thresh snow about 2cm lay on the windslab. Did not look windblown the crystal structure appeared undamaged, through out the climb turf was unfrozen and rocks bare / black.
These are just my observations.
Happy days!
In reply to Simon Wells:
Thanks Simon, top information. Despite these conditions though, you did still climb the gully or have I misunderstood?
Thanks Simon, top information. Despite these conditions though, you did still climb the gully or have I misunderstood?
In reply to groovejunkie:
Was thinking of trinity face tomorrow too. To be honest I'm not too hopeful & had pretty much decided on a different area altogether, now you've got me wondering again........
Was thinking of trinity face tomorrow too. To be honest I'm not too hopeful & had pretty much decided on a different area altogether, now you've got me wondering again........
In reply to trek:
Yes we climbed the route but kept to the side of any snow patches sticking to ground with rocks "pinning" the snow in place, when we crossed the gully from the ZIG Zags heading South Easterly we do so quickly, moving from safe place to safe place. Bit of a compromise strategy as the rocks can also be areas of weakness........
My climbing partner is an experienced winter climber so we made a decision as eqauls to carry on knowing that there might be localised risk of a slide. Had I been with a less knowledgable partner I might have decided to turn back / safe way out as they may not have enough knowledge to make a joint decision.
From MWIS Mondays forcast:
How Cold?
-1 to -3C, highest western hills.
Freezing level
500m to 750m, but ground frozen or partly frozen into some valleys after a frost.
Well the forecast for today was off as it was warmer, more windy etc so if this -3 can get the temp low in the snow pack it may be more stable? Or the slushy layer might still be there....
"If in doubt turn about"
Yes we climbed the route but kept to the side of any snow patches sticking to ground with rocks "pinning" the snow in place, when we crossed the gully from the ZIG Zags heading South Easterly we do so quickly, moving from safe place to safe place. Bit of a compromise strategy as the rocks can also be areas of weakness........
My climbing partner is an experienced winter climber so we made a decision as eqauls to carry on knowing that there might be localised risk of a slide. Had I been with a less knowledgable partner I might have decided to turn back / safe way out as they may not have enough knowledge to make a joint decision.
From MWIS Mondays forcast:
How Cold?
-1 to -3C, highest western hills.
Freezing level
500m to 750m, but ground frozen or partly frozen into some valleys after a frost.
Well the forecast for today was off as it was warmer, more windy etc so if this -3 can get the temp low in the snow pack it may be more stable? Or the slushy layer might still be there....
"If in doubt turn about"
In reply to Simon Wells:
Cheers Simon, really appreciate the info. Will see how "cold" it is tomorrow!
Cheers Simon, really appreciate the info. Will see how "cold" it is tomorrow!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: We did Main Gully on Glyder Fach yesterday. The lower gully was complete but slushy and then a wet scramble up to the chock stone and cave. The upper snow field had some worrying fractures in windslab but we kept on trucking and got away with it.
Today we did Brislty Ridge which was in fairly good condition and gave an enoyable outing...a very successful weekend considering the thaw
Today we did Brislty Ridge which was in fairly good condition and gave an enoyable outing...a very successful weekend considering the thaw
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Hey folks, we are all dead keen, but reading this lot, your all trying to get stuff done which is not in will wreck the veg etc.
best leave it till its in
Hey folks, we are all dead keen, but reading this lot, your all trying to get stuff done which is not in will wreck the veg etc.
best leave it till its in
In reply to mmd: That's probably a fair comment...I'm going to have a rest for a couple of weeks
DIY... Good things come to those who wait!
In reply to Misha: Maybe ..I might wait for it in scotland
In reply to mmd: Quite right!
Have a look at this article about Welsh winter climbing and the death of the Snowdon Lily:
http://thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=3469
Have a look at this article about Welsh winter climbing and the death of the Snowdon Lily:
http://thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=3469
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Thought you might like to know that the Ogwen Valley webcams are currently working and can be seen at http://www.ogwen-rescue.org.uk/
The internet connection is still a little temperamental, but it seems to be updating correctly at the moment.
Thought you might like to know that the Ogwen Valley webcams are currently working and can be seen at http://www.ogwen-rescue.org.uk/
The internet connection is still a little temperamental, but it seems to be updating correctly at the moment.
I was out working on the Carneddau this weekend.
Wetsnow from llyn Lloer to 800m then firming up.
An inspection of the main head wall in the Carnedd Fach area had a firm neve depth of around 1 -2 inches sitting on top of very hard neve and was well bonded on east to south east slopes above 800m.
South facing slopes of cwm Lloer had windslab with cracks evident, caution on those slopes.
The crag aprons and cornices facing north above Black ladders had significant cracks and were generally well slumped after the few days of thaw. On Sunday they were not well bonded but the next few days colder temps should see them stabilise somewhat, keep this in mind if your climbing in the Ladders area, especially if the temperature does go up again, as I would expect some of the larger aprons/sagged cornice to release.
South facing slopes on the Carneddau in Craig Malwodi area had many areas of windslab on a non bonded graupel layer sat on grass which showed cracks and released easily underfoot, steeper slopes on that southern aspect will probably remain weakly bonded for quite some time.
All in all its that first layer of graupel that fell as the first white stuff in the park, it will take a long time for the graupel to bond.
A pit dug on a 20 degree south west facing slope at 700m in Cwm Lloer had a firmish wet snow depth of around 2.5 feet, 4 finger hardness. A distict 3mm thick ice layer was evident at 15cm. The whole block released with a firm pull(it is wet snow)at the grass base.
Cheers
Mark
Wetsnow from llyn Lloer to 800m then firming up.
An inspection of the main head wall in the Carnedd Fach area had a firm neve depth of around 1 -2 inches sitting on top of very hard neve and was well bonded on east to south east slopes above 800m.
South facing slopes of cwm Lloer had windslab with cracks evident, caution on those slopes.
The crag aprons and cornices facing north above Black ladders had significant cracks and were generally well slumped after the few days of thaw. On Sunday they were not well bonded but the next few days colder temps should see them stabilise somewhat, keep this in mind if your climbing in the Ladders area, especially if the temperature does go up again, as I would expect some of the larger aprons/sagged cornice to release.
South facing slopes on the Carneddau in Craig Malwodi area had many areas of windslab on a non bonded graupel layer sat on grass which showed cracks and released easily underfoot, steeper slopes on that southern aspect will probably remain weakly bonded for quite some time.
All in all its that first layer of graupel that fell as the first white stuff in the park, it will take a long time for the graupel to bond.
A pit dug on a 20 degree south west facing slope at 700m in Cwm Lloer had a firmish wet snow depth of around 2.5 feet, 4 finger hardness. A distict 3mm thick ice layer was evident at 15cm. The whole block released with a firm pull(it is wet snow)at the grass base.
Cheers
Mark
In reply to rockcatch: Nice one Andy keep up the good work mate
I have been joined for the day by regular client Roddy who wanted to have an intro to winter skills following the gift of an ice axe from Father Christmas! When we left the car in Ogwen it was a promisingly low 3c and we headed up into Cwm Cneifion where there was a dusting of fresh snow that had fallen overnight.
We looked at the basic skills of using the boot, axe and crampons as tools, including some self arrest. We also looked at avalanche avoidance and then climbed Hidden Gully (II) onto the Glyders. We headed over the summit of Glyder Fawr and then descended the Devils Kitchen.
The snow high up was well consolidated and the turf frozen but it was still all very soft below about 850m. I followed the gritter back down the A5 which is always a good sign! There are photos on my blog.
Rob
We looked at the basic skills of using the boot, axe and crampons as tools, including some self arrest. We also looked at avalanche avoidance and then climbed Hidden Gully (II) onto the Glyders. We headed over the summit of Glyder Fawr and then descended the Devils Kitchen.
The snow high up was well consolidated and the turf frozen but it was still all very soft below about 850m. I followed the gritter back down the A5 which is always a good sign! There are photos on my blog.
Rob
In reply to Rob Johnson:
Yes a lovely morning, sun, blue sky,no wind, good neve all the way up easy gully on cwm cneifion. All the easy gullies full of snow - the odd ice pitch on tower slabs
Yes a lovely morning, sun, blue sky,no wind, good neve all the way up easy gully on cwm cneifion. All the easy gullies full of snow - the odd ice pitch on tower slabs
Some snow arriving later this week and freezing temperatures:-
http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Snowdon/6day/mid
Will there be some climbs in condition this weekend?
http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Snowdon/6day/mid
Will there be some climbs in condition this weekend?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Not sure there will be neough time for water ice to form but gullys, buttresses, and ridges high up could be fun!
Not sure there will be neough time for water ice to form but gullys, buttresses, and ridges high up could be fun!
In reply to Rob Johnson: Thanks Rob, that was a fun day!
Another great day in Cwm Cneifion. I teamed up with friend Huw today for a days climbing on Clogwyn Du having seen how good it looked yesterday and it didn't disappoint! We climbed Pillar Chimney (V, 5/6), descended Easy Gully (I) and then climbed Clogwyn Right Hand Branch (III, 3) and then descended Hidden Gully (II). The conditions were great with hard neve, frozen turf and ice where you needed it on all of the routes. The chimney of Pillar Chimney felt straightforward to both of us and there was enough ice to ease our passage and some cracking ice on the top pitch. Clogwyn Left Hand is not complete but other folk had also climbed Hidden Gully and we heard voices elsewhere in the Cwm but poor visibility meant it was not possible to see what they were on. A great day out and photos on the blog as normal.
In reply to roddyp: My pleasure - thanks for your company - it was great!
In reply to MattKelk:
Echo that - anyone suggest Grade I's that might be incondition and not high risk avalanche wise later in the week? Usual caveats understood.
Echo that - anyone suggest Grade I's that might be incondition and not high risk avalanche wise later in the week? Usual caveats understood.
Did Right Hand Trinity yesterday and Hidden Gully today with my friend Charlie - two quite different days. Yesterday, the snow slopes up to the Trinity Face were still not very frozen, and up in the gully there was surprisingly little old snow, and what there was was breaking up and not too well attached to the hill. Topped with a couple cm of new unconsolidated snow near the top, it made for an 'interesting' climb. Final pitch (supposedly grade I) was quite testing. Definitely III at the moment but great fun.
Only saw one other pair on the hill - they did Central Trinity.
Different story today - good frost last night has frozen the lying snow, and up in Cwm Cneifion, the rocks were well rimed and the snow good - Hidden Gully was a doddle. Seemed snowier than the Trinity Face.
Bit of a thaw forecast for tomorrow, then going colder again so things could be improving for the weekend?
Andy
Only saw one other pair on the hill - they did Central Trinity.
Different story today - good frost last night has frozen the lying snow, and up in Cwm Cneifion, the rocks were well rimed and the snow good - Hidden Gully was a doddle. Seemed snowier than the Trinity Face.
Bit of a thaw forecast for tomorrow, then going colder again so things could be improving for the weekend?
Andy
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I've been out this morning. Somehow managed to drag myself up at 6:30am. Went up the Fishermans' Path into Cwm Clyd to climb the North Spur of Y Garn. However, the clag was terrible, so much so that we couldn't locate the start of the route!
The wind was fairly unpleasant too, so we settled for practising some winter skills on the snow. It's hard to tell just how much snow is up there but what we found was lovely and solid.
Lesson learned: in bad visibility pick a route you're familiar with, or one that at least has an obvious start!
The wind was fairly unpleasant too, so we settled for practising some winter skills on the snow. It's hard to tell just how much snow is up there but what we found was lovely and solid.
Lesson learned: in bad visibility pick a route you're familiar with, or one that at least has an obvious start!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
I was also out in cwm cneifion yesterday. Went up easy gully to the summit, then back down via the cwm head wall and then across to tower slabs area.
There was a distinct warm air layer from 600 to 800m in the cwm itself.
All slopes apart from the west facing ones were in a firm neve condition with a light dusting of generally 1 inch of fresh snow.
A test at 875m on a north east facing slope had a release of 18 inches of wet graupel with a 2 inch thick neve layer on top, when gently slumped on with both feet.
The western facing slopes of the cwm at 780m were much softer warmer and were releasing 2 inches depth of soft slab underfoot.
Some good freeze thaw cycles on the way.
I was also out in cwm cneifion yesterday. Went up easy gully to the summit, then back down via the cwm head wall and then across to tower slabs area.
There was a distinct warm air layer from 600 to 800m in the cwm itself.
All slopes apart from the west facing ones were in a firm neve condition with a light dusting of generally 1 inch of fresh snow.
A test at 875m on a north east facing slope had a release of 18 inches of wet graupel with a 2 inch thick neve layer on top, when gently slumped on with both feet.
The western facing slopes of the cwm at 780m were much softer warmer and were releasing 2 inches depth of soft slab underfoot.
Some good freeze thaw cycles on the way.
In reply to Mark Handford:
Mark, at what height is the snowline generally? Many thanks for the info.
Mark, at what height is the snowline generally? Many thanks for the info.
In reply to viking: In the Owgwen Valley as a whole its generally patchy at 650m then more cover as height is gained.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Snowline on Crib Goch similar. Some good hard neve on approach. Llyn Glas frozen. Did Reade's route, as it's a summer rock route. Good mixed conditions. Turf (in the few places where we found it) was semi frozen.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
A bit premature here, but does anybody have an idea on what the weekend may hold? Freezing levels look to be nice and low. Would prefer to avoid driving to Scotland from Cardiff : | !
A bit premature here, but does anybody have an idea on what the weekend may hold? Freezing levels look to be nice and low. Would prefer to avoid driving to Scotland from Cardiff : | !
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Any news guys, has the rain destroyed the last of the snow? Was hoping to get out on Sunday.
Snow-forecast.com mentions some snow on the way and temperatures dipping as of tomorrow.
Any news guys, has the rain destroyed the last of the snow? Was hoping to get out on Sunday.
Snow-forecast.com mentions some snow on the way and temperatures dipping as of tomorrow.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: The warmer temps of yesterday and the accompanying rain have not stripped much snow from the higher cwms or summits.
There was light rain this morning at 250m and the cloud base is down to around 600m at the moment.Temps at 250m plus 6.5c.
Snow/sleet is forecast for the Saturday and Sunday with a forecast drop in the freezing level, keep an eye on it.
I suppose it depends on what your plans are; walking, easy snow gully climbs etc.
Its always worth going out for a bimble and just see how your day pans out, it all adds to fresh air in your lungs and fun with friends even if your plans get changed due to weather/snow conditions.
There was light rain this morning at 250m and the cloud base is down to around 600m at the moment.Temps at 250m plus 6.5c.
Snow/sleet is forecast for the Saturday and Sunday with a forecast drop in the freezing level, keep an eye on it.
I suppose it depends on what your plans are; walking, easy snow gully climbs etc.
Its always worth going out for a bimble and just see how your day pans out, it all adds to fresh air in your lungs and fun with friends even if your plans get changed due to weather/snow conditions.
In reply to Mark Handford:
I'm thinking Parsley Fern Left Hand followed by Crib Goch could be worth doing on Sunday.
I'm thinking Parsley Fern Left Hand followed by Crib Goch could be worth doing on Sunday.
In reply to stevez:
is that grade II Steve?
is that grade II Steve?
I have been joined today by regular client and friend Jason for some winter climbing. Yesterday was fairly warm and this has resulted in the snow level lifting to about 800m. On Clogwyn Du it looked as though the crag had been stripped of hoar but had then started to re-form over night as there was some fresh hoar frost. First off we climbed Clogwyn Right Hand (III), the snow was soggy at first but conditions improved on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. The turf was still frozen and there was still ice in the chimney. We descended Easy Gully and then had a play on Tower Slabs which gave a nice 60m pitch of ice at about II/III. It is forecast to be colder overnight and tomorrow so hopefully the snow will firm up again. Photos on the blog as normal.
Rob
Rob
I saw on baggy's blog that someone had been on the trinity face earlier in the week. Is this still doable? The temperatures look good but is there enough snow?
In reply to Hewin: Dunno, but if you try central trinity without enough snow you'll have a have to climb out of the gully to bypass the chockstone. I had to do this early December this season as the chockstone was almost 2 metres above me.
In reply to Rob Johnson: Does anyone know if the Ramp is in condition at present? What do people think would give the most reliable short(ish) day in the Snowdon/Llanberis/Ogwen areas?
Thanks
Thanks
In reply to Traveller:
Hidden Gully, Cwm Cnefion. Thats just my opinion, and where I am headed tomorrow.
Hidden Gully, Cwm Cnefion. Thats just my opinion, and where I am headed tomorrow.
In reply to Traveller: There was no ice at all in Cwm Idwal yesterday. You need to get up high and you need to be looking at snow gullies or mixed routes. Clogwyn Du is good, I have been told that the Trinities were in good condition at the start of the week and with the weather forecast as it currently stands they should be good at the weekend, the easier lines on the Ladders start higher so they should be OK - not a lot of a quick short day though!
The Met Office are suggesting snow showers over the next couple of days and a freezing level hovering between 200 and 700m.
Have fun!
Rob
The Met Office are suggesting snow showers over the next couple of days and a freezing level hovering between 200 and 700m.
Have fun!
Rob
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Would like to hear any more info on north wales and whats in condition as thinking of heading up there this weekend. Thanks
Would like to hear any more info on north wales and whats in condition as thinking of heading up there this weekend. Thanks
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Fresh snow on the Black Ladders this morning.
We've even had a few flurries of thick snow in Bangor today.
We've even had a few flurries of thick snow in Bangor today.
In reply to AGGIS:
Check out these webcams, still snow on higher ground:-
http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/webcams/pages/snowdon.shtml
http://www.ogwen-rescue.org.uk/oggi_cam/
Check out these webcams, still snow on higher ground:-
http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/webcams/pages/snowdon.shtml
http://www.ogwen-rescue.org.uk/oggi_cam/
In reply to MattKelk:
Thanks very much for that. Glad to see the ogwen cam working again.
Thanks very much for that. Glad to see the ogwen cam working again.
In reply to MikeLell:
What gear would you recommend taking up Central Trinity? Is it all sketchy or is it worth taking some rock protection?
What gear would you recommend taking up Central Trinity? Is it all sketchy or is it worth taking some rock protection?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Good neve on Crib Goch north side on tuesday, so I suspect it would be ok with a bit off rock gear
In reply to Mike Peacock:
Driving home from Bethesda around 4ish the Ladders looked really lean, hardly nothing on them.
Yes it did snow/hail this afternoon but, not enough really to justify stomping up there in the hope of scraching around on fcuk all really !
Driving home from Bethesda around 4ish the Ladders looked really lean, hardly nothing on them.
Yes it did snow/hail this afternoon but, not enough really to justify stomping up there in the hope of scraching around on fcuk all really !
In reply to Hewin: Have soloed it twice but the only time I led it I got a couple of cams, 1 nut and 1 sling on the whole route. most belays were T-trenched axes. I you do decide to take rock gear I'd keep it pretty minimal. Rock isn't that great to be fair.
In reply to mr mills:
Is there nothing left at all? Y Garn stilll looked in condition from the Oggi Cam.
Is there nothing left at all? Y Garn stilll looked in condition from the Oggi Cam.
In reply to MattKelk:
It looks like high up gullys wil be in some sort of nick. Cwm Cneifion and Clogwyn y Garnedd (Trinity Face) would be the obvious choices.
It looks like high up gullys wil be in some sort of nick. Cwm Cneifion and Clogwyn y Garnedd (Trinity Face) would be the obvious choices.
In reply to stevez:
Mid range forecast showing Idwal could come back into condition from next weekend onwards???
http://news.bbc.co.uk/weather/forecast/10209
Mid range forecast showing Idwal could come back into condition from next weekend onwards???
http://news.bbc.co.uk/weather/forecast/10209
In reply to trek:
Easy stuff really, grade I/II.
Easy stuff really, grade I/II.
In reply to MattKelk:
Central Trinity on Snowdon, Hidden Gully in Cwm Cnefion, I would imagine A Gully, B Gully and top of Banana Gully would be ok on Y Garn, Parsley Fern in Cwm Glas.
Central Trinity on Snowdon, Hidden Gully in Cwm Cnefion, I would imagine A Gully, B Gully and top of Banana Gully would be ok on Y Garn, Parsley Fern in Cwm Glas.
In reply to MattKelk:
Yes there are some paches of consolidated snow here and there but really,
Ok, I`m not wanting to spoil peoples hopes of playing in the snow, so go up and have a nice walk, take your kit with you and report back later on then !
As for Y Garn, it was not in condition yesterday, not around 3pm anyway, snowed some last night but just a light coating.
Great day for a boulder I thinks
Yes there are some paches of consolidated snow here and there but really,
Ok, I`m not wanting to spoil peoples hopes of playing in the snow, so go up and have a nice walk, take your kit with you and report back later on then !
As for Y Garn, it was not in condition yesterday, not around 3pm anyway, snowed some last night but just a light coating.
Great day for a boulder I thinks
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/8488607.stm
More sad news of Winter
More sad news of Winter
> (In reply to MattKelk)
>
> Yes there are some paches of consolidated snow here and there but really,
>
> Ok, I`m not wanting to spoil peoples hopes of playing in the snow,
>
> Yes there are some paches of consolidated snow here and there but really,
>
> Ok, I`m not wanting to spoil peoples hopes of playing in the snow,
> As for Y Garn, it was not in condition yesterday,
There is definetly plenty to be going at.
You say you are 'not wanting to spoil peoples hopes of playing in the snow' but that is exactly what you are doing.
According to Baggy's blog http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/ "snow was neve higher up on Y Garn" yesterday.
Hidden Gully is in condition,
Trinity Face is definetly worth a go, teams have been on it for the last 2 or 3 days reporting 'good conditions'
In reply to trek: I would say that going and having a look would be the best option for anyone as peoples perceptions of what is in and what isn't can vary drastically due to experience. in the end if the winter routes aren't in then go and play out in the quarries climbing slate. Theres always something to do and its nice to hear so many keen people wanting to get out on this site!!
My 2 penneth for what its worth!!
My 2 penneth for what its worth!!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Wow, what a beautiful day in Snowdonia! I only managed to get out walking into Cwm Marchlyn then up Carnedd y Filiast but the weather was perfect. Fresh powder snow on the ground, with old drifts incredibly hard. Sunshine and no showers.
The Seaking was out again though. At 1pm-ish it was circling Idwal and Cneifion round a dropped flare, then at 2pm-ish it returned and was hovering over Bristly Ridge for a while. Fingers crossed it was just a training exercise.
The Seaking was out again though. At 1pm-ish it was circling Idwal and Cneifion round a dropped flare, then at 2pm-ish it returned and was hovering over Bristly Ridge for a while. Fingers crossed it was just a training exercise.
In reply to climber_medic:
Well said.
Go and FIND those routes which are 'in'. They are there right now, this weekend.
Well said.
Go and FIND those routes which are 'in'. They are there right now, this weekend.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I should also add that there was plenty of ice in the mountain streams quite low down. Bodes well!
Well it didn't happen for me today
Got picked up on time by my mate in his disco but he went around a tightening bend with slush all over it a bit to quick and we spun and hit a dry stone wall. The disco is written off unfortunately, I could see Snowdon, Moel Siabod, Tryfan and all of the Carneddau - gutted
Anyway I'm gonna go back and solo on the Trinity Face. I order the welsh winter climbs book last week but it hasn't arrived yet. Could anyone send me the pages for the Trinity Face please? Would be much appreciated!
Got picked up on time by my mate in his disco but he went around a tightening bend with slush all over it a bit to quick and we spun and hit a dry stone wall. The disco is written off unfortunately, I could see Snowdon, Moel Siabod, Tryfan and all of the Carneddau - gutted
Anyway I'm gonna go back and solo on the Trinity Face. I order the welsh winter climbs book last week but it hasn't arrived yet. Could anyone send me the pages for the Trinity Face please? Would be much appreciated!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Baggys blog will be updated later he has said
but he also told me its stunning in n wales. loads of neve all over the hills, trinity in brill nick alongside nameless cwm and the ladders is in top nick, lots of good turf.
get and enjoy, its great out there. No ice low down, need to go high up
sunshine
Baggys blog will be updated later he has said
but he also told me its stunning in n wales. loads of neve all over the hills, trinity in brill nick alongside nameless cwm and the ladders is in top nick, lots of good turf.
get and enjoy, its great out there. No ice low down, need to go high up
sunshine
Is Hidden Gully at grade II possible with one axe, only have a DMM Cirque at the moment.
I was out in Cwm Bochlwyd today and the snow is excellent. Its good hard neve at all levels and I imagine its the same across the whole of the park. Not a great deal of ice around but you can see that its trying hard to form. Glyder Fach's long lines of Central and Main Gullies would be great at present. Quite a few teams in Cwm Ceinifion - Tower Gully, Tower Slabs, Hidden Gully and Right Hand Y Gully all look really good. There are some photos from today on my blog.
In reply to Mike Peacock: I was over in Wales today, stunning weather. PLenty of people playing on the slopes and gullies to the side of Y Gribin. Spotted a couple of guys doing a gully, don't know what its called. Coming down off Y garn was interesting plenty of frozen snow ( neve ?)
Saw the big yellow bird. They were after a faller on Bristley screes and later for a couple on Glyder Fawr
Saw the big yellow bird. They were after a faller on Bristley screes and later for a couple on Glyder Fawr
In reply to MattKelk: I did Hidden Gully today and it is great condition. As to whether or not it's a one axe job will be down to how confident you are. There is a fair bit of ice in it and I was glad to have two
In reply to MattKelk: Just got back from an ace day in Cwm Cneifon. Late start but could see numerous groups on Tower Slabs and all surrounding routes. Bone hard neve in all the gullies. Parties on Y Gully Left Hand (complete but steep), our mates soloed Y Gully Right Hand and we did Pillar Chimney. The ice was in on the main pitch but too thin in the most part to take gear so we opted for the back of the chimney which was taxing (too small to be able to move/see). My partner dropped an ice screw so if anyone does find it drop me a line. Fantastic ice on the top right finish. All this under wall to wall blue skies.
In reply to philhilo:
You beat me to it Phil. Would just add that there were two teams on El Mancho so it's in but pretty lean from the looks of it. Rock mostly verglassed. If anyone finds the screw (short BD turbo) somewhere around P1 of Pillar Chimney would appreciate if you could get in touch. It somehow unclipped itself from the BD plastic screw clip while I was battling with the chimney. Baggy's blog has been updated now, basically the high up stuff is in. Check out the photo of Clogwyn Ddu, Clogwyn Left Hand looks awesome! Also worth mentioning that some of the Idwal ice routes including the Appendix haven't completely disappeared yet, so hopefully they will build up relatively quickly if it stays cold - unfortunately current forecast for early next week is on the mild side. Hopefully at least the high up stuff will stay in.
You beat me to it Phil. Would just add that there were two teams on El Mancho so it's in but pretty lean from the looks of it. Rock mostly verglassed. If anyone finds the screw (short BD turbo) somewhere around P1 of Pillar Chimney would appreciate if you could get in touch. It somehow unclipped itself from the BD plastic screw clip while I was battling with the chimney. Baggy's blog has been updated now, basically the high up stuff is in. Check out the photo of Clogwyn Ddu, Clogwyn Left Hand looks awesome! Also worth mentioning that some of the Idwal ice routes including the Appendix haven't completely disappeared yet, so hopefully they will build up relatively quickly if it stays cold - unfortunately current forecast for early next week is on the mild side. Hopefully at least the high up stuff will stay in.
In reply to Misha:
Leaving Cardiff now. Probably going to be Parsley Fern then down Crib Goch for me. Have a great day all.
Leaving Cardiff now. Probably going to be Parsley Fern then down Crib Goch for me. Have a great day all.
In reply to mr mills: One of the great things about this thread has been the openness with which contributors have been about conditions. Threads which relate to Scottish conditions are sometimes different for there can be a tendency to guard against climbers travelling north and crowding classic routes. That is fair enough in some ways but this has been the best Welsh winter for some years so lets enjoy it and hope that as many people can do so with us as possible - there may be very few of these winters in twenty years time.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Just echo the comment above - was in Cneifion yesterday - definitely the best conditions I've seen in there (15years+) - the highlight for me was Tower Gully - neve from bottom to top and every placement was good. My mate enjoyed Hidden Gully so much he climbed it twice - again the best conditions he'd seen on that route for 20 years. We toddled off via Glyder Fach and descended the Bristly screes - again brilliant conditions on rock hard snow.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Just back from Cwm Cnefion were we climbed Hidden Gully. I'd never done it before, and although its short, it is well worth the hike, especially at the moment. The Easy Route approach was neve, and Hidden Gully itself was perfect neve with good solid ice. Great axe placements every time. Just wish that route was 5 times as long!
Great neve everywhere in the cwm and plenty of ice beginning to form.
A good bit of fresh powder lying on everything now as it snowed most of today & last night.
All routes in Cwm Cneifion seemed to be 'in' condition today. Poor visibility when we were there this morning, but there wers certainly 2 or 3 teams on Clogwyn Du.
We descended the Gribinn ridge, with powder snow really starting to build up in larger amounts.
Spoke to another climber on the way down who had done Main Gully on Glyder Fach, and was raving about it being in stonking condition!
Pics and more of a report on blog later: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
Just back from Cwm Cnefion were we climbed Hidden Gully. I'd never done it before, and although its short, it is well worth the hike, especially at the moment. The Easy Route approach was neve, and Hidden Gully itself was perfect neve with good solid ice. Great axe placements every time. Just wish that route was 5 times as long!
Great neve everywhere in the cwm and plenty of ice beginning to form.
A good bit of fresh powder lying on everything now as it snowed most of today & last night.
All routes in Cwm Cneifion seemed to be 'in' condition today. Poor visibility when we were there this morning, but there wers certainly 2 or 3 teams on Clogwyn Du.
We descended the Gribinn ridge, with powder snow really starting to build up in larger amounts.
Spoke to another climber on the way down who had done Main Gully on Glyder Fach, and was raving about it being in stonking condition!
Pics and more of a report on blog later: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I'll echo Andy's comments. Another fantastic day today. We arrived at Ogwen about midday and the snow was falling thickly. Went up the False Gribin then Y Gribin. Large sections of the plateau of Glyder Fawr are just sheets of ice.
There were people everywhere. We spied some in Right Hand Pinnacle Gully as we descended into Cwm Idwal, and some people in another gully (perhaps Flake Gully). Lots of walkers just out enjoying the snow in Idwal which was nice to see.
More heavy snow falling as we left Ogwen at 4:30ish. Pics soon.
There were people everywhere. We spied some in Right Hand Pinnacle Gully as we descended into Cwm Idwal, and some people in another gully (perhaps Flake Gully). Lots of walkers just out enjoying the snow in Idwal which was nice to see.
More heavy snow falling as we left Ogwen at 4:30ish. Pics soon.
In reply to Mike Peacock:
How much snow has fallen? Do you think it'll start getting a bit avalanche prone again?
How much snow has fallen? Do you think it'll start getting a bit avalanche prone again?
In reply to Tom Hutton: I don't know really. I'm certainly no expert but several inches of graupel fell throughout the day. The snow plough was out on the A5 as we came down.
In reply to Tom Hutton: Hi Tom, hope you are well. It has been snowing all day down to the road level. Tomorrow is forecast to be breezy and so the fresh snow will be transported by the wind, this could lead to accumulations large enough to present an avalanche hazard. There are some photos on my blog as I was out this afternoon on a rescue on Snowdon.
Rob
Rob
In reply to philhilo:
Guys just got back from a great day in Snowdonia. Scrambbled up directly left of Idwal Slabs, then went up a gully to the far left of Nameless Cwm and then a bit of scramble onto the ridge of Y Gribbin. Not sure of the route names until l get the guide. Loads of snow in Cwm Cneifion. Some really nice neve forming in the gully we did.
Great day and only my second ever winter climb. God my calves are going to hurt tomorrow!
Guys just got back from a great day in Snowdonia. Scrambbled up directly left of Idwal Slabs, then went up a gully to the far left of Nameless Cwm and then a bit of scramble onto the ridge of Y Gribbin. Not sure of the route names until l get the guide. Loads of snow in Cwm Cneifion. Some really nice neve forming in the gully we did.
Great day and only my second ever winter climb. God my calves are going to hurt tomorrow!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
I only reported what I saw Charlie, also I did encourage people to go out and find something to climb !
I`m really happy that some climbers managed the hike up to Cwm Cneifion and climbing the exellent Hidden Gulley.
Not sure what you are implying with your comments but, sounds like you have got your knickers in a twist so lighten up.
I only reported what I saw Charlie, also I did encourage people to go out and find something to climb !
I`m really happy that some climbers managed the hike up to Cwm Cneifion and climbing the exellent Hidden Gulley.
Not sure what you are implying with your comments but, sounds like you have got your knickers in a twist so lighten up.
In reply to Rob Johnson: Hi Rob
Yes, doing well thanks. Checked your blog - is that the Jason I think it is? How's he doing?
So conditions wise, I guess I should avoid eastern facing gullies (Parsley Fern/Broad Gully etc?). Perhaps another route in Cneifion (Gribin Side) or even a ridge? Any good suggestions for something that'll be good for me and the missus? GI/II (III short sections at a push).
Hope to bump into you up there at some stage
Tom
Hope the casualty was ok today
Yes, doing well thanks. Checked your blog - is that the Jason I think it is? How's he doing?
So conditions wise, I guess I should avoid eastern facing gullies (Parsley Fern/Broad Gully etc?). Perhaps another route in Cneifion (Gribin Side) or even a ridge? Any good suggestions for something that'll be good for me and the missus? GI/II (III short sections at a push).
Hope to bump into you up there at some stage
Tom
Hope the casualty was ok today
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Pics from today:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623196466493/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623196466493/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Blog updated with conditions on the Ladders.
http://allanrobb.blogspot.com/
Cheers
Allan
Blog updated with conditions on the Ladders.
http://allanrobb.blogspot.com/
Cheers
Allan
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Anyone been up Snowdon over the weekend? I'm guessing the wintery conditions are well and truely back and the week ahead looks interesting. How far down is the snow lying at the moment?
Anyone been up Snowdon over the weekend? I'm guessing the wintery conditions are well and truely back and the week ahead looks interesting. How far down is the snow lying at the moment?
In reply to Reach>Talent: Valley floor.
In reply to IainRUK:
Ah, right. So it is fairly safe to assume that the railway path and the like are well and truely banked out?
Ah, right. So it is fairly safe to assume that the railway path and the like are well and truely banked out?
In reply to Reach>Talent: Not been up recently, a friend ran up Y Garn this weekend and said all the old snow is now rock hard neve and its very dangerous on any slopes if you don't have proper gear.
I was out in the Moelwyns Saturday, but really all the old snow below ~700m had gone and there was only small amounts of new snow.
I was out in the Moelwyns Saturday, but really all the old snow below ~700m had gone and there was only small amounts of new snow.
In reply to Reach>Talent: Just what I noticed on the Trinity face yesterday: Hard neve up high before the recent snow fall. Yesterday fresh powdery snow accumulated on top of the hard neve, tracks were filling rapidly with spindrift, so you were breaking through various amounts of soft snow through to the hard stuff. Made thet start of the Pyg track descent feel a bit precarious for example.
In reply to vincentvega:
http://allanrobb.blogspot.com/ <
Just looked at the spindrift on your blog. Blimey!! Were you guys climbing a gully or a waterfall!!
> Blog updated with conditions on the Ladders.
http://allanrobb.blogspot.com/ <
Just looked at the spindrift on your blog. Blimey!! Were you guys climbing a gully or a waterfall!!
In reply to Diccon:
Yeah, tell me about it.
There was deceptively no wind at all in the cwm as it was sheltered.
But on the plateau, where all that spindrift was poring from, it was pretty gusty. hence getting showered mid pitch!!
Allan
Yeah, tell me about it.
There was deceptively no wind at all in the cwm as it was sheltered.
But on the plateau, where all that spindrift was poring from, it was pretty gusty. hence getting showered mid pitch!!
Allan
I'm thinking about booking off tomorrow to go and do Central Trinity but I don't get much leave so I don't want to waste a day. Do you guys think it will be in and more importantly will it be safe for a solo?
In reply to Hewin: If your days are valuable then don't waste the day, theres a wet and warm front on the way in, with freezing above the tops then dropping to around 900m
The long range forecast (unisys) is predicting a good cycle of freeze thaw over the next week or so.
Warm temps on yesterdays heavy snow and going solo wouldnt be in my book as the safest choice.
Cheers
Mark
I have been out with Trail Magazine today doing a photoshoot and providing the instruction for a winter skills feature. We met up at lunchtime and headed into Cwm Bochclwyd which provided some nice hard snow to refresh the key skills for Phoebe & Simon and a beautiful backdrop in the form of a snowy Tryfan for the photos. Tomorrow we are going on a mountain journey to put the skills into practice for real. The ice is all reforming again on the higher crags and the snow was still down to the road as we left at 5:00pm. There was good compact neve higher up (under the fresh snow) and at all levels a fresh light covering of new snow. The forecast suggests some freeze/thaw conditions over the next couple of days so lets keep fingers crossed that the two balance each other out!
In reply to Rob Johnson: Saw your van at Idwal Cottage Rob. We ended up climbing East Wall Gully (yuk) and then Pinnacle Gully in Cneifion, which was great - good neve and just a little graupel. Say hi to Simon and Phoebe for me!
In reply to Rob Johnson: Just ran up Eilio (~730m), at the summit it was quite warm tonight (well felt a barmy 2 or 3 degrees), definite thaw anyway as the forecast predicted, all the ice around was melting quite fast and the snow was slushy. As you say tomorrow the freezing level is meant to drop back down again, then rise a bit, and looks like further snow fall throughout the week.
Looks like Saturday could be a nice day again though.
Looks like Saturday could be a nice day again though.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Drove up to Cwm Eigau from Conwy valley yesterday afternoon - chains needed most of the way up (only one other car up there). Skied up on to lwyellyn - pretty decent skiing with some big patches of old snow and about 6 inches of fresh falling during the day and drifting.
Hi,
I spotted this thread and would like your permission to use your photos in the new winter guide. Can I draw your attention to the following thread as it possibly concerns your photos and your new route information:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=392883&new=5664813#x5664813
After a meeting with the old authors of the South Wales Winter Climbing Guidebook, both whom are also friends, it has been decided to update and republish the old winter guide by next winter. There is loads of route misinformation floating about, some of it from the old guide, that could be better managed by a new rewrite. All of your comments to improve the reprint will be most welcome.
Can I ask that you (if you have climbed in S.Wales) write up your local winter climbs over the last few weeks (or years) as though you were writing up a first ascent? This will help as the climbs may have changed and I can identify problem areas. All new routes can be posted to my email address below. The email has been active/used for years and should continue to be so for the coming years. Feel free to keep it for your records in the future.
I'm dead keen to get ALL of your South Wales Winter Climbing photos. I can bring my laptop to you to get entire folders if needed. I envisage the new guide to be featuring loads of photo topos and information accessible in the easiest to read format. This can only be possible if we get the photos in and it's not like I can go 'pop out' and take photos when I want! Winter rarely comes and getting good photos can only be completed as a team.
So ... let's sort a decent winter guide for the next cold snap and be more organised when choosing South Wales to climb. Ladies and Gentlemen - give us your photos and new/old route information!
Cheers
>>> steven.delaney@gmail.com <<<
I spotted this thread and would like your permission to use your photos in the new winter guide. Can I draw your attention to the following thread as it possibly concerns your photos and your new route information:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=392883&new=5664813#x5664813
After a meeting with the old authors of the South Wales Winter Climbing Guidebook, both whom are also friends, it has been decided to update and republish the old winter guide by next winter. There is loads of route misinformation floating about, some of it from the old guide, that could be better managed by a new rewrite. All of your comments to improve the reprint will be most welcome.
Can I ask that you (if you have climbed in S.Wales) write up your local winter climbs over the last few weeks (or years) as though you were writing up a first ascent? This will help as the climbs may have changed and I can identify problem areas. All new routes can be posted to my email address below. The email has been active/used for years and should continue to be so for the coming years. Feel free to keep it for your records in the future.
I'm dead keen to get ALL of your South Wales Winter Climbing photos. I can bring my laptop to you to get entire folders if needed. I envisage the new guide to be featuring loads of photo topos and information accessible in the easiest to read format. This can only be possible if we get the photos in and it's not like I can go 'pop out' and take photos when I want! Winter rarely comes and getting good photos can only be completed as a team.
So ... let's sort a decent winter guide for the next cold snap and be more organised when choosing South Wales to climb. Ladies and Gentlemen - give us your photos and new/old route information!
Cheers
>>> steven.delaney@gmail.com <<<
Rain rain rain rain & more rain for today
In reply to trek: Anybody got any information on fell top status ? oggi cam looks like major thaw at all levels ? Hoping to go out tomorrow - but looks late I'm too late.
I took the Trail Magazine team of three up Snowdon today to put into practice the winter skills that we refreshed yesterday. It was raining most of the day, turning to sleet over about 1000m. The snow pack was saturated and we saw evidence of some small wet snow avalanches. The snow line has risen to about 600 metres. This should partially refreeze overnight but then the freezing level is rising over the summits again later in the day tomorrow. It felt very Scottish today, it was very windy on the summit (50-60mph) and we had no visibility for most of the day. The depth of snow has obliterated the path above the intersection of the Miners Track & the PYG track and we were breaking trail on virgin snow to the summit ridge! Photos on the blog as normal. Rob
In reply to Neil Anderson: Loads of Neve on Carneddau plateau yesterday. Did Eastern Gully on the Ladders and then Broad Gully in Cwm Lloer. I did a bit of a rutschblock test on a south facing slope and there was evidence of some windslab formation although I'm no expert on this.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Walked halfway to Ysgolion Duon this morning - soggy. Some easy neve lines would probably have been doable
In reply to Cardi: Met Office suggested 'Moderate to high risk of heavy snow for a time in the east of the park' today. Has this fallen yet?
I haven't been out today but this came in from friend Carl:
Hi Rob, bit of snow action today. Trinity Right Hand was very nice, bit of a step by the chockstone but v good placements above. All hard snow and bits of ice most of way to top. bit sugary near the top. Back via Crib Goch, best I've ever seen it, all hard snow. Dusting everywhere but raining when back at car though , looks like that could be it for a while.
Hi Rob, bit of snow action today. Trinity Right Hand was very nice, bit of a step by the chockstone but v good placements above. All hard snow and bits of ice most of way to top. bit sugary near the top. Back via Crib Goch, best I've ever seen it, all hard snow. Dusting everywhere but raining when back at car though , looks like that could be it for a while.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: It was falling, even at 'Plan B' of Tremadog, but the ground was so moist that nothing was sticking. Maybe some would have done very high up, but the thaw seems to have reached quite high
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Any news on the current conditions? I'm guessing this weekend is going to be too cold for shorts and too warm for ice climbing?
Also has anyone wandered up the railway track in the last week, still banked out?
Any news on the current conditions? I'm guessing this weekend is going to be too cold for shorts and too warm for ice climbing?
Also has anyone wandered up the railway track in the last week, still banked out?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I was out on the Migneint today, and drove down the Ogwen Valley on the way. The mist was down, but Cwm Lloer still looked reasonably white. The bottom of Banana Gully on Y Garn was snowy, but then reports of that lately have been that it isn't in condition.
In reply to Mike Peacock:
Baggy has just told me, warm today, temps above tops, quite a bit of snow gone, looks warm over weekend, nothing much happening.
poss cold next week again
Baggy has just told me, warm today, temps above tops, quite a bit of snow gone, looks warm over weekend, nothing much happening.
poss cold next week again
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Yep, looks like the only thing that will be happening in Wales this weekend is Welshman crying in their beer after England put them to the sword at Twickers!
Yep, looks like the only thing that will be happening in Wales this weekend is Welshman crying in their beer after England put them to the sword at Twickers!
In reply to stevez: Yeah right...
In reply to mmd:
not too difficult those pesky voices in you head - anyone would think you are in constant contact with the Baggy the way you go on ... ;-0)
> (In reply to Mike Peacock)
>
> Baggy has just told me,
>
> Baggy has just told me,
not too difficult those pesky voices in you head - anyone would think you are in constant contact with the Baggy the way you go on ... ;-0)
Has anyone actually been out today? Any reports?
In reply to Ian McNeill: Hi Ian, you know, I think they must be best friends!
In reply to Tim Nantperis: Tim you must have been out lately ..whats it looking like .. is sunday worth a punt.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Looking at this you may find some neve in high up gullys in the likes of Upper Cwm Glas, Cwm Cneifion, and Clogwyn y Garnedd bit i'd imagine that's it.
http://www.ogwen-rescue.org.uk/oggi_cam/
Looking at this you may find some neve in high up gullys in the likes of Upper Cwm Glas, Cwm Cneifion, and Clogwyn y Garnedd bit i'd imagine that's it.
http://www.ogwen-rescue.org.uk/oggi_cam/
In reply to stevez:
Ooh, that does look a bit barren. So Has anyone had a gander at Snowdon?
Ooh, that does look a bit barren. So Has anyone had a gander at Snowdon?
In reply to Reach>Talent: Similar. Elidir Fawr is now almost clear of snow. The snow line is almost 2500ft, still old snow in the gullys which was very hard at the start of the week, but not sure how its held up to the warmer weather and rain.
Last night we were out to around 1500ft and it was really warm, felt a barmy 8-10 deg, not sure what it actually was.
Last night we were out to around 1500ft and it was really warm, felt a barmy 8-10 deg, not sure what it actually was.
In reply to IainRUK:
I think the thaw may actually be my fault, it has done this the last 3 times I've headed to Wales for some winter climbing.
I think the thaw may actually be my fault, it has done this the last 3 times I've headed to Wales for some winter climbing.
In reply to Reach>Talent: GRRR I shake my fist at you boy ... go home !!
In reply to mux:
In all fairness I was actually planning on going cragging as I'd failed to persuade anyone to go winter climbing. The only reason I asked about conditions on Snowdon is that some friends want to walk up the railway path on Saturday and I don't think any of them own crampons.
In all fairness I was actually planning on going cragging as I'd failed to persuade anyone to go winter climbing. The only reason I asked about conditions on Snowdon is that some friends want to walk up the railway path on Saturday and I don't think any of them own crampons.
Been out in Cwm Cnefion today. Did Tower Slabs which were still in decent nick. Plenty of ice, some of it a bit wet, a lot of it 'dinner plating', but very do able.
A team in Tower Gully, apparently was good. Hidden Gully also in fine condition.
We used Easy Route as a descent, and it was good neve all the way.
Y Gully Left Hand Branch & Y Gully Right Hand Direct had plenty of ice still in them, unsure as to how solid it was, but it was very much there.
Get up there quick though, cos unless it gets cold again very very soon, it will be gone.
Will put some pics on the blog in the next few minutes: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
A team in Tower Gully, apparently was good. Hidden Gully also in fine condition.
We used Easy Route as a descent, and it was good neve all the way.
Y Gully Left Hand Branch & Y Gully Right Hand Direct had plenty of ice still in them, unsure as to how solid it was, but it was very much there.
Get up there quick though, cos unless it gets cold again very very soon, it will be gone.
Will put some pics on the blog in the next few minutes: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
The five day forecast looks good with sunny days and blue skies and night time temperatures dropping below freezing at all levels. The Easterly wind should mean no more snow but what is left should be nice. The easier gullies and the mixed climbing should feel Alpine!
In reply to trek: It ought to be cold again by tomorrow, water ice should reform during the next week with a cold easterly wind. I reckon Idwal will have good ice on some routes in 5 days or so
In reply to MattG: Heres hoping!
I have been out on a rescue this afternoon but otherwise been at home all day. It has been a bright blue sky day here in Wales. This came in from friend Carl:
Hi Rob, some more snow news today! Went up Pen yr ole wen via Broad Gully to avoid the crowds. It was ok early this morning with sugary snow all frozen solid. Walked over to Carnedd Dafydd and descended via Crib Lem and traversed round to the Trident gullies. A few bits of ice hanging on there (think I was on Central Trident), but at the top that sugary stuff wasn't solid and took some time to find a safe way out. Back up to Dafydd and back to car. I did manage to aviod the crowds! Going to be a bit BBRRR.... by Monday apparently.
Bryn reported great conditions with hard neve, blue skies and sunshine on Parsley Fern today.
Hi Rob, some more snow news today! Went up Pen yr ole wen via Broad Gully to avoid the crowds. It was ok early this morning with sugary snow all frozen solid. Walked over to Carnedd Dafydd and descended via Crib Lem and traversed round to the Trident gullies. A few bits of ice hanging on there (think I was on Central Trident), but at the top that sugary stuff wasn't solid and took some time to find a safe way out. Back up to Dafydd and back to car. I did manage to aviod the crowds! Going to be a bit BBRRR.... by Monday apparently.
Bryn reported great conditions with hard neve, blue skies and sunshine on Parsley Fern today.
In reply to Rob Johnson:
Hi Rob,
Great conditions in Cwm Cneifion today & looking great for the rest of the week. Lots of folk on the easier slabby & gully climbs which have stonking neve & great ice at the mo'.
Y Gully Left & Right Hand got a few ascents today; the right is in better condition but the left is thick enough & has a great thin, steep variation finish at the top for the brave! All clearly visible on the walk in.
Pillar Chimney's not there yet but it won't be long. The variation(s) was a good alternative today.
See you on the hills
Geoff B
Hi Rob,
Great conditions in Cwm Cneifion today & looking great for the rest of the week. Lots of folk on the easier slabby & gully climbs which have stonking neve & great ice at the mo'.
Y Gully Left & Right Hand got a few ascents today; the right is in better condition but the left is thick enough & has a great thin, steep variation finish at the top for the brave! All clearly visible on the walk in.
Pillar Chimney's not there yet but it won't be long. The variation(s) was a good alternative today.
See you on the hills
Geoff B
In reply to geoff b: Left and Central Trinity Gully fine condition yesterday. Right was thin but doable. Returned to car park over Crib Goch which was still very snowy in parts.
I also did a gully route (about grade III) that starts 150 m left of Parson's Nose and finishes up a huge snowfield on Crib y Ddysgyl. Any idea what route this could be?
I also did a gully route (about grade III) that starts 150 m left of Parson's Nose and finishes up a huge snowfield on Crib y Ddysgyl. Any idea what route this could be?
In reply to MikeLell: Fantail gully
In reply to The Rorster: Cheers. Seemed more like a II/III yesterday as there were lots of ice steps to overcome, but maybe these are covered with snow in full conditions. Very nice route though.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Parsley Fern Left hand was in fine condition Saturday, snow fantastic and decent ice. Surprising the amount of ice about. Was layer of wind slab which slid of with a kick in a small avalanche pit. Would say risk pretty minimal.
In reply to freemanTom (Guildford MC):
Did Parsley Fern LH on Saturday and descended the normal. All fabulous hard neve with blue skies and sunshine on the top - Great! Saw teams on Waterslide Gully (lV) with the ice in good nick and someone did Sinister but it looked thin to me!
Loads of action on everything in the Nameless Cwm today including Left Hand and Right Hand on Clogwyn Ddu. I did my first proper ice lead up the frozen Tower Slabs (lll) ))
I was surprised how excellent everything still is high up and north facing.
Did Parsley Fern LH on Saturday and descended the normal. All fabulous hard neve with blue skies and sunshine on the top - Great! Saw teams on Waterslide Gully (lV) with the ice in good nick and someone did Sinister but it looked thin to me!
Loads of action on everything in the Nameless Cwm today including Left Hand and Right Hand on Clogwyn Ddu. I did my first proper ice lead up the frozen Tower Slabs (lll) ))
I was surprised how excellent everything still is high up and north facing.
In reply to Babika: Hi we were the party on sinister gully, it was all complete and took a couple of ice screws(also there is an in situ sling). the crux pitch looked a bit worse for wear but the axe placements were solid. Had to weave around a bit on the first 2 pitches to keep on the neve (which we solod), but was solid after the crux pitch
In reply to Babika: me and my mate Karl did Sinister on Sat, a year to the day he backed off it, the ice looked reasonable from a distance, but the lower section was hollowed out!
we did Right Hand route on Clogwyn Ddu on Sun which was in better condition and hidden gully
the weather was fantastic, what a great weekend!
we did Right Hand route on Clogwyn Ddu on Sun which was in better condition and hidden gully
the weather was fantastic, what a great weekend!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Spent the morning doing the easy gully lines in Cwm Caseg, Carneddau. All full of perfect neve - and plenty of it. They'll be good for at least a week by the sound of it. Nice place, if you fancy a lengthy walk...
Spent the morning doing the easy gully lines in Cwm Caseg, Carneddau. All full of perfect neve - and plenty of it. They'll be good for at least a week by the sound of it. Nice place, if you fancy a lengthy walk...
Did you get a look at the snow cover in Cwm Glas bach Simon (Carneddau one) ?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Went to Clogwyn y Garnedd (Trinity face) today and soloed Central Trinity. In great nick. Left hand also looked good. Right hand a bit lean looking!
Had a poke in Great Gully also, and although the snow in it is excellent, there appear to be a couple of large chockstones which were bare, looked too lean to solo.
Went to Clogwyn y Garnedd (Trinity face) today and soloed Central Trinity. In great nick. Left hand also looked good. Right hand a bit lean looking!
Had a poke in Great Gully also, and although the snow in it is excellent, there appear to be a couple of large chockstones which were bare, looked too lean to solo.
In reply to chalk monster:
Hi chalkmonster - we stopped to talk in the Nameless Cwm on Sunday. Your mate was soloing up Tower Slabs in fine style.
Well done on Clogwyn RH
What a great weekend
Hi chalkmonster - we stopped to talk in the Nameless Cwm on Sunday. Your mate was soloing up Tower Slabs in fine style.
Well done on Clogwyn RH
What a great weekend
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Why bother discussing the conditions...everyone seems to go mad as soon as the turfs frozen! i'm sure its called ICE climbing...
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
you wait for ice, you will be there a long time and if you do not like the beat off folk then take up golf maybe
you wait for ice, you will be there a long time and if you do not like the beat off folk then take up golf maybe
In reply to r_parnham: Because there is some snow and ice around?
In reply to r_parnham:
No idea what you are talking about mate.
All I know is that wherever you can see snow just now, its good 'neve'.
Looks like it will stay that way all week looking at forecast.
No idea what you are talking about mate.
All I know is that wherever you can see snow just now, its good 'neve'.
Looks like it will stay that way all week looking at forecast.
In reply to r_parnham:
Well yes it is if you are climbing ice ... I do hope you are being facetious
but just in case your not : "Winter Climbing" is more than just Ice, Hense the name of the forum
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge) Why bother discussing the conditions...everyone seems to go mad as soon as the turfs frozen! i'm sure its called ICE climbing...
>
>
Well yes it is if you are climbing ice ... I do hope you are being facetious
but just in case your not : "Winter Climbing" is more than just Ice, Hense the name of the forum
Can anyone tell me if devils kitchen still has ice, arriving on Thursday for a quick visit.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
No but it's started to reform as of yesterday.
In reply to Roger:
Went up to Cwm Idwal this morning (work)! everything seemed to be pretty lean, Idwal Stream seemed ok ! (from the bridge anyway)
Jon Ratcliffe was heading up to Cwm Cneifion to do L/H Branch on Clogwyn Du.
Went up to Cwm Idwal this morning (work)! everything seemed to be pretty lean, Idwal Stream seemed ok ! (from the bridge anyway)
Jon Ratcliffe was heading up to Cwm Cneifion to do L/H Branch on Clogwyn Du.
Hi,
I'm coming up this weekend, and was wondering if anyone has been out in the Black Ladders area recently and is able to report on conditions.
Thanks
I'm coming up this weekend, and was wondering if anyone has been out in the Black Ladders area recently and is able to report on conditions.
Thanks
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Unless we get more snow, apart from the neve lines, they are unlikely to be in. Buttress are black, but some water is starting to freeze. Unless it starts to rime up properly again, or we get a proper flurry , it's not likely to be your best bet this weekend.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I've just driven down the Ogwen Valley. The backwall of Cwm Lloer is still very white, and Cwm Cneifion looks great. A, B and Banana Gully on Y Garn were covered, as was Main Gully on Glyder Fach.
There's been a very very light dusting of snow on the valley, plus outliers like the Arenigs. The Berwyns looked much whiter however.
At about 500m on the Migneint the turf was freezing and ice was forming. Things are looking good.
There's been a very very light dusting of snow on the valley, plus outliers like the Arenigs. The Berwyns looked much whiter however.
At about 500m on the Migneint the turf was freezing and ice was forming. Things are looking good.
In reply to Irish01: Was out on the ladders yesterday - just about winter nick. Did pyramid butress, mainly on frozen turf but with good neve and ice in places. Ice starting to form in kitchen but could do with some snow to give it a helping hand. Cwm Cniefion looked great - plenty to go at there across the grades!
In reply to Mike Peacock:
A, B and Banana Gully on y garn were covered,
Covered with what exactly Mike ?
There is a slim streak up Banana Gully, top looks good.
A and B Gullies are bare or I`m just blind !
Cwm Cneifion looks good, a bit patchy at the top but I`m sure one can weave a line up Tower Slabs, plenty to go at !
A, B and Banana Gully on y garn were covered,
Covered with what exactly Mike ?
There is a slim streak up Banana Gully, top looks good.
A and B Gullies are bare or I`m just blind !
Cwm Cneifion looks good, a bit patchy at the top but I`m sure one can weave a line up Tower Slabs, plenty to go at !
In reply to mr mills: Each to their own. Cwm Clyd wasn't exactly swamped, but from where I was those gullies looked fine. Probably a ribbon of snow amongst the rock...
I almost took my camera. In retrospect I should have.
I almost took my camera. In retrospect I should have.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Went up to Cwm Lloer today and did Main Gully. Great neve all the way. Some good short ice falls too, one about 20m to the right of the start of the gully, a bit too thin to climb but great looking stalegmites (spelling??), one about 50m up gully, which I did climb, and another a firther 50m up, which I chickened out of!
Stunning views on top. Cwm Cneifion looking good still, Y Garn looks thin but some definite lines, maybe a bit sketchy tho, could see right over to Cwm Glas & Parsley Fern area which was white.
Basically everything which is white & north facing is good, but south facing slopes which still have any snow cover on them are pretty loose & melting. South slopes of Carnedd Daffyd for instance which I came back to Cwm Lloer via, were in the sun and melting fast.
Will put some pics on blog this eve: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
Went up to Cwm Lloer today and did Main Gully. Great neve all the way. Some good short ice falls too, one about 20m to the right of the start of the gully, a bit too thin to climb but great looking stalegmites (spelling??), one about 50m up gully, which I did climb, and another a firther 50m up, which I chickened out of!
Stunning views on top. Cwm Cneifion looking good still, Y Garn looks thin but some definite lines, maybe a bit sketchy tho, could see right over to Cwm Glas & Parsley Fern area which was white.
Basically everything which is white & north facing is good, but south facing slopes which still have any snow cover on them are pretty loose & melting. South slopes of Carnedd Daffyd for instance which I came back to Cwm Lloer via, were in the sun and melting fast.
Will put some pics on blog this eve: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
In reply to Mike Peacock: was Clogwyn Du starting to hoar up?
In reply to frost:
Friend of mine said it was yesterday.
> (In reply to Mike Peacock) was Clogwyn Du starting to hoar up?
Friend of mine said it was yesterday.
In reply to frost:
Just noticed in the winter logbooks that you soloed Clogwyn Right Hand the other day.
What was that like? Never been on it before. How did you find it soloing?
Just noticed in the winter logbooks that you soloed Clogwyn Right Hand the other day.
What was that like? Never been on it before. How did you find it soloing?
In reply to frost:
Was up in Cwm Idwal yesterday and thee was some rime on Clogwyn Du, suppose it will rime up more in the next few days, some snow would help !
Was up in Cwm Idwal yesterday and thee was some rime on Clogwyn Du, suppose it will rime up more in the next few days, some snow would help !
In reply to frost: The party on Travesty yesterday thought it was ok. I thought it was drytooling with frozen turf. Was up there fro my first day of the winter because my partner wanted to do El Mancho but I persuaded him it was no way near rimed enough, the crag had a light dusting at the top and nothing on the starts of the routes. We did Lefthand instead which as you know is in good nick. Felt a bit guilty for not getting on El Mancho but Lefthand's a great route anyhow!
Had a good discussion on the walk down with the party who had been on Travesty, they thought it was comparable to what's getting done north of the border and they're well travelled enough to know. I haven't been north for ages so wouldn't know. But if yesterday was deemed 'acceptable' for mid-grade mixed routes then what we're doing is drytooling with frozen turf make no mistake, and I've nothing against that at all I'm all for getting amongst it but may as well call a duck a duck.
Had a good discussion on the walk down with the party who had been on Travesty, they thought it was comparable to what's getting done north of the border and they're well travelled enough to know. I haven't been north for ages so wouldn't know. But if yesterday was deemed 'acceptable' for mid-grade mixed routes then what we're doing is drytooling with frozen turf make no mistake, and I've nothing against that at all I'm all for getting amongst it but may as well call a duck a duck.
In reply to trek: a lot quicker!
Pics & report now on blog http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Just got back from N Wales (10th Feb)- did Parsley Fern - excellent bomb proof Neve and a lot of ice in the corrie - Sinster was in fine nick. Plus all the grade III ground around. Fresh dusting of snow ( & windblown) over 850m . Top of Sargents would have just about gone, especially with another couple of days of frost.
A couple of parties went up Trinty central - fine nick, and LH trinity soloed too. Most of Trinty gullies in nick - and crag riming up.
Good water ice building on seepage lines from Crib Gogh.
Ice forming on Craig Y Rhaedar but very thin as yet.
Nice sunny day with some high cloud cover.
Would suggest that all the high corrie gully routes are in, with Rime building over 900+m - tuft solid from 700m ish.
Great day. Photos in a mo.
A couple of parties went up Trinty central - fine nick, and LH trinity soloed too. Most of Trinty gullies in nick - and crag riming up.
Good water ice building on seepage lines from Crib Gogh.
Ice forming on Craig Y Rhaedar but very thin as yet.
Nice sunny day with some high cloud cover.
Would suggest that all the high corrie gully routes are in, with Rime building over 900+m - tuft solid from 700m ish.
Great day. Photos in a mo.
In reply to Neil Anderson: It was us on LH Trinity - the condition of the route was amazing. The whole of Clogwyn y Garnedd looked to be in nick yesterday.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Anyone know what the Ogwen valley has been like? Heading up tomorrow. I hope I haven't missed all the fun!
Anyone know what the Ogwen valley has been like? Heading up tomorrow. I hope I haven't missed all the fun!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Went up A Gully on Y Garn this afternoon and the conditions were good. It looked like all the gullies on Y Garn would have been climbable, and there was snow in Cwn Cneifion too. Some patchy ice around, but I would not describe it as climbable.
Photos are at http://www.flickr.com/rockcatch/
Went up A Gully on Y Garn this afternoon and the conditions were good. It looked like all the gullies on Y Garn would have been climbable, and there was snow in Cwn Cneifion too. Some patchy ice around, but I would not describe it as climbable.
Photos are at http://www.flickr.com/rockcatch/
In reply to rockcatch:
Cheers for the info and photos. Looks like its worth taking crampons and an axe along for the ride.
Cheers for the info and photos. Looks like its worth taking crampons and an axe along for the ride.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Did Parsley Fern LH yesterday. Superb day and conditions ideal. Steep gd 11 neve all the way up. A great ice bulge pitch at half height which took 3 ice screws!. Descended back PYG track with views of Trinity Face. Central and LH looked in v.good nick. Ladies/Cave gullies are in but with some thin looking sections at the cruxes - would be interested to know what the parties on these thought about them. Great gully/Snowdrop not in.
P.S. a huge thank you to the couple who gave us a lift from Pen y pass back to our car by Ynys Ettws. It saved us a 40 min slog in the dark! If you're out there I hope you see this - MASSIVE THANK YOU!
Did Parsley Fern LH yesterday. Superb day and conditions ideal. Steep gd 11 neve all the way up. A great ice bulge pitch at half height which took 3 ice screws!. Descended back PYG track with views of Trinity Face. Central and LH looked in v.good nick. Ladies/Cave gullies are in but with some thin looking sections at the cruxes - would be interested to know what the parties on these thought about them. Great gully/Snowdrop not in.
P.S. a huge thank you to the couple who gave us a lift from Pen y pass back to our car by Ynys Ettws. It saved us a 40 min slog in the dark! If you're out there I hope you see this - MASSIVE THANK YOU!
In reply to petejh: Hi Pete, went up yesterday (thur) and I would have to agree with you. Anyone climbing Travesty in the current condition is kidding themselves if they think they're mixed climbing and I,m not aware that's acceptable north of the boarder either.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Went out for a walk yesterday, plenty of activity in Cwm Cniefion with teams on Tower slabs,Nameless gully,Hidden gully,Pillar chimney and Clogwyn Du left and right hand. Can`t comment on the ice conditions but the snow was solid neve.
Went out for a walk yesterday, plenty of activity in Cwm Cniefion with teams on Tower slabs,Nameless gully,Hidden gully,Pillar chimney and Clogwyn Du left and right hand. Can`t comment on the ice conditions but the snow was solid neve.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Hi all does anyone know any low graded gulleys in condition at the moment that are do able solo
Andy
Andy
In reply to andyd1970:
The obvious ones that spring to mind would be Parsley Fern gully,Central and Left hand Trinity,Hidden gully,Broad gully,Banana gully, all these have superb neve at the moment and are very easy depending on your own ability.
The obvious ones that spring to mind would be Parsley Fern gully,Central and Left hand Trinity,Hidden gully,Broad gully,Banana gully, all these have superb neve at the moment and are very easy depending on your own ability.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Been on Trinity face again today. Left & Central Trinities in great nick again/still. Right Hand also good and party on it.
Team did Cave Gully and said crux 'desperate'.
Some fantastic ice falls above pyg track, (slopes of Carnedd Ugain), dozens in fact. Ranging from 30-35 degree, through to 10m of vertical icefalls, all climbable. Which is exactly what we did when we finished on Central Trinity. Great fun to be had, and an ideal place to practise ice climbing skills, and screw placements.
In fact there were 3 or 4 teams climbing on them, either soloing as we were, or pitching icefalls.
Been on Trinity face again today. Left & Central Trinities in great nick again/still. Right Hand also good and party on it.
Team did Cave Gully and said crux 'desperate'.
Some fantastic ice falls above pyg track, (slopes of Carnedd Ugain), dozens in fact. Ranging from 30-35 degree, through to 10m of vertical icefalls, all climbable. Which is exactly what we did when we finished on Central Trinity. Great fun to be had, and an ideal place to practise ice climbing skills, and screw placements.
In fact there were 3 or 4 teams climbing on them, either soloing as we were, or pitching icefalls.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Today - Clogwyn Du - Hidden Gulley, Right Hand and Left all extremely good. Neve and ice generally excellent at times a little brittle
Dry rock with lovely easy gear placements.
Today - Clogwyn Du - Hidden Gulley, Right Hand and Left all extremely good. Neve and ice generally excellent at times a little brittle
Dry rock with lovely easy gear placements.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Just back from a day out. Cwm Cniefion was filled with happy people. People in Tower Gully, Tower Slabs, Easy Route, Hidden Gully and Clogwyn Left and Right Hand.
Lovely hard snow, and the stream in the cwm made a pleasant icy prelude to the day.
Bumped into someone near the summit of Glyder Fawr with a huge antennae. Turns out his hobby was climbing mountains and setting up his radio, then seeing who he could talk to on other mountains and elsewhere!
The sea king was out as we descended the Devil's Kitchen. Hopefully they were just training.
Lovely hard snow, and the stream in the cwm made a pleasant icy prelude to the day.
Bumped into someone near the summit of Glyder Fawr with a huge antennae. Turns out his hobby was climbing mountains and setting up his radio, then seeing who he could talk to on other mountains and elsewhere!
The sea king was out as we descended the Devil's Kitchen. Hopefully they were just training.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Did Central Trinity this morning, pics on blog:
http://www.burnthedesk.blogspot.com
Did Central Trinity this morning, pics on blog:
http://www.burnthedesk.blogspot.com
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Photos from Cwm Cneifion today:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623302276741/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623302276741/
In reply to Mike Peacock:
Nice pics Mike. Was anyone climbing on Idwal/Devil's Kitchen area ice today?
Nice pics Mike. Was anyone climbing on Idwal/Devil's Kitchen area ice today?
In reply to trek: Not that I saw. We descended left round Llyn Idwal so couldn't see the state of Idwal Stream.
From Glyder Fawr I could see a group of 4 or so in Banana Gully. Beautiful day, every seemed to be having fun.
From Glyder Fawr I could see a group of 4 or so in Banana Gully. Beautiful day, every seemed to be having fun.
In reply to trek:
Came down that way today after doing Hidden Gulley, nothing at all in condition in the cwm.
Yellow bird was out as was the Ogwen rescue team, two separate incidents I think, one on Glyder Fawr decent to llyn y cwn and another in Cwm Cneifion.
Came down that way today after doing Hidden Gulley, nothing at all in condition in the cwm.
Yellow bird was out as was the Ogwen rescue team, two separate incidents I think, one on Glyder Fawr decent to llyn y cwn and another in Cwm Cneifion.
In reply to mr mills:
Ta mate, hopefully another few days of cold and things might be ready once again. I have a bone to pick with The Screen!
Ta mate, hopefully another few days of cold and things might be ready once again. I have a bone to pick with The Screen!
In reply to mr mills: We wondered if there was an incident above Llyn y Cwn. When the sea king arrived it made a direct beeline there. There were lots of people tackling the treacherous slopes there without axes or crampons. I hope nothing serious happened.
In reply to Mike Peacock:
I took my crampons off at the summit of Glyder Fawr, there were several people wandering all over the place, pretty tricky decent for the unexperienced I should imagine.
Had to redirect a few from wandering to far left as you come down as there is a 20/30 mtr cliff there, dont know if they heeded my advice but hope nobody was to badly injured !
I took my crampons off at the summit of Glyder Fawr, there were several people wandering all over the place, pretty tricky decent for the unexperienced I should imagine.
Had to redirect a few from wandering to far left as you come down as there is a 20/30 mtr cliff there, dont know if they heeded my advice but hope nobody was to badly injured !
In reply to Mike Peacock: Did Banana Gully this morning - excellent neve all the way. Some guys doing C Gully as well.
Richard
Richard
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: According to OVMRO two jobs today. 1 on the slope coming down to Llyn Y Cwn the other on Tower Slabs. The first was lack of crampons the other just a climbing accident. No major injuries
In reply to stoke scrambler:
There was a leader fall on Tower Slabs, which must have been quite dramatic as he/she ended up upside down, level with the belayer, 15m + below what was probably an ice screw. I saw only the later stages of the fall so don't know what caused it and whether the leader had a considerable run out or whether some gear blew. A few people rushed over (we were on Left Hand at the time) and for a while there was a worrying lack of movement but then everyone walked out so hopefully that meant that the person wasn't too badly injured. The Sea King did come in but don't think it picked anyone up, though perhaps it dropped someone off to assess the situation - we didn't have a very clear view, especially as the clouds started coming in.
Four teams on Left Hand today, ice a bit brittle so a fair bit coming off but still plenty left. The direct finish up a chimney groove has some interesting moves on thin ice to get round a hanging chandelier.
There was a leader fall on Tower Slabs, which must have been quite dramatic as he/she ended up upside down, level with the belayer, 15m + below what was probably an ice screw. I saw only the later stages of the fall so don't know what caused it and whether the leader had a considerable run out or whether some gear blew. A few people rushed over (we were on Left Hand at the time) and for a while there was a worrying lack of movement but then everyone walked out so hopefully that meant that the person wasn't too badly injured. The Sea King did come in but don't think it picked anyone up, though perhaps it dropped someone off to assess the situation - we didn't have a very clear view, especially as the clouds started coming in.
Four teams on Left Hand today, ice a bit brittle so a fair bit coming off but still plenty left. The direct finish up a chimney groove has some interesting moves on thin ice to get round a hanging chandelier.
In reply to Misha:
Turns out they did pick him up. The MRT website says "The casualty took a 30m fall whilst ice climbing on Tower Slabs, Cwm Cneifion, injuring his arm and face. Luckily, a team member was climbing in the adjacent Tower Gully and was able to go to his assistance immediately whilst the Team and 22 Squadron were scrambled. He was lowered a full rope length to easier ground and was able to walk to a suitable winching site. He was then flown to hospital for further treatment."
Turns out they did pick him up. The MRT website says "The casualty took a 30m fall whilst ice climbing on Tower Slabs, Cwm Cneifion, injuring his arm and face. Luckily, a team member was climbing in the adjacent Tower Gully and was able to go to his assistance immediately whilst the Team and 22 Squadron were scrambled. He was lowered a full rope length to easier ground and was able to walk to a suitable winching site. He was then flown to hospital for further treatment."
does anyone know what the conditions are like up around the ladders at the moment?
Excellent conditions in Cwm Glas today, we did Infidelity which is in superb condition our mates did Sinister and didn't see anyone else on it. We had hoped to climb Waterslide Gully but the first 100ft or so had no ice at all, likewise Church Door Buttress. Snowing very heavily on the summits later.
In reply to Misha: Was busy in there yesterday.
Watched that one happen, axe placements?
Did you see the soloist fall out of Clogwyn LH earlier and skid down the neve below the cliff before coming to a stop sans an axe? Had seen him earlier soloing and topping out on Clogwyn Ddu - don't know which route he'd done - one lucky boy...
Saw a lot of dropped axes too, skidding down the snow...
Had a great adventure on RH, with an interesting final move around an ice umbrella - the open RH gully, not the finish marked on the Wiki topo...
Watched that one happen, axe placements?
Did you see the soloist fall out of Clogwyn LH earlier and skid down the neve below the cliff before coming to a stop sans an axe? Had seen him earlier soloing and topping out on Clogwyn Ddu - don't know which route he'd done - one lucky boy...
Saw a lot of dropped axes too, skidding down the snow...
Had a great adventure on RH, with an interesting final move around an ice umbrella - the open RH gully, not the finish marked on the Wiki topo...
In reply to Ben Gibbons:
We were on the ladders on Saturday, did Eastern gully which was in great nick with neve snow all the way and good ice for the direct start. Central gully looked like it had a bit missing in the middle. The rest looked a bit thin.
> does anyone know what the conditions are like up around the ladders at the moment?
We were on the ladders on Saturday, did Eastern gully which was in great nick with neve snow all the way and good ice for the direct start. Central gully looked like it had a bit missing in the middle. The rest looked a bit thin.
In reply to Dee:
That was probably me! Grey duvet top? We were waiting at the base of the first ice pitch on LH when I dropped my gloves and they went quite a long way down. After downclimbing the easy approach gully on LH I decided to bumslide down the neve slope to the gloves. Didn't bother holding an axe ready as the slope levelled out roundabout where the gloves were, so I figured I would stop where needed, which I more or less did. Was a bit silly though bumsliding with a couple of axes hooked round my neck, won't be doing that again. One of them came off and neatly hooked itself in the snow. Earlier I soloed the RH start to Pillar Chimney (nice III, looked like no one had done it for a while) to have a look for an ice screw that had dropped off my harness a fortnight ago while I was battling with Pillar Chimney - thought it might have landed on the ledges below but it was nowhere to be seen. However I reversed the bottom half of the first pitch of Pillar Chimney rather than topping out - there aren't any easy ways up on the main section of the cliff!
> Did you see the soloist fall out of Clogwyn LH earlier and skid down the neve below the cliff before coming to a stop sans an axe? Had seen him earlier soloing and topping out on Clogwyn Ddu - don't know which route he'd done - one lucky boy...
That was probably me! Grey duvet top? We were waiting at the base of the first ice pitch on LH when I dropped my gloves and they went quite a long way down. After downclimbing the easy approach gully on LH I decided to bumslide down the neve slope to the gloves. Didn't bother holding an axe ready as the slope levelled out roundabout where the gloves were, so I figured I would stop where needed, which I more or less did. Was a bit silly though bumsliding with a couple of axes hooked round my neck, won't be doing that again. One of them came off and neatly hooked itself in the snow. Earlier I soloed the RH start to Pillar Chimney (nice III, looked like no one had done it for a while) to have a look for an ice screw that had dropped off my harness a fortnight ago while I was battling with Pillar Chimney - thought it might have landed on the ledges below but it was nowhere to be seen. However I reversed the bottom half of the first pitch of Pillar Chimney rather than topping out - there aren't any easy ways up on the main section of the cliff!
In reply to Misha: Yep, was you, saw you on the top earlier - looked very spectacular!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
A bit late in posting. We did Sinister Gully 111 on Sat. Excellent neve once again and all the ice picthes were there. The crux was a little chopped about but all there. Calm weather, summits clear, fantastic day.
A bit late in posting. We did Sinister Gully 111 on Sat. Excellent neve once again and all the ice picthes were there. The crux was a little chopped about but all there. Calm weather, summits clear, fantastic day.
In reply to Diccon:
Thats good to know. Also hoping that some Devil's Kitchen area ice comes back in again very soon.
Thats good to know. Also hoping that some Devil's Kitchen area ice comes back in again very soon.
In reply to trek: Freezing levels creeping up at the mo, raining heavily here in Deiniolen but should be putting a lot of snow on the tops hopefully!
In reply to The Rorster:
I might be being a bit optimistic about devils kitchen area ice then. Saw some photos taken on saturday and you could see all the usual suspects starting to form. I had been hoping they would be in towards the end of this week, maybe not then.
Think we might go for clogwyn right hand on wednesday, then see what friday brings.
I might be being a bit optimistic about devils kitchen area ice then. Saw some photos taken on saturday and you could see all the usual suspects starting to form. I had been hoping they would be in towards the end of this week, maybe not then.
Think we might go for clogwyn right hand on wednesday, then see what friday brings.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Did C,B,A gullies on Y Garn this morning. Fresh snow on good neve. Bit mild, but snowing fairly heavily by late morning. Rain in Cwm Idwal.
Did C,B,A gullies on Y Garn this morning. Fresh snow on good neve. Bit mild, but snowing fairly heavily by late morning. Rain in Cwm Idwal.
In reply to Removed Usersimongwyn: what height was the snowline?
In reply to Neil Anderson:
Upper slopes of Cwm Clyd/Cwm Cneifion, so probably 750-800m.
Upper slopes of Cwm Clyd/Cwm Cneifion, so probably 750-800m.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: It's been snowing again today in Bangor, and it looks like some fresh snow is down on the tops.
In reply to Mike Peacock: Anybody seen how Clogwyn Du is looking? I presume it's been snowing up there..
Cheers
Jon
Cheers
Jon
In reply to chummer:
I was hoping to do clogwyn righthand tomorrow, but my partner has just cancelled.
Would still be interested to know how its looking today/yesterday though...?
I was hoping to do clogwyn righthand tomorrow, but my partner has just cancelled.
Would still be interested to know how its looking today/yesterday though...?
In reply to trek: Still cold up there and snowing off and on all day I believe. Wear your gaiters...
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Anyone been up in cwm cneifion today? Hoping to get up there tomorrow!
Anyone been up in cwm cneifion today? Hoping to get up there tomorrow!
In reply to simonverges:
In the Cwm today. Three of us soloed Tower Gully. Very mixed snow conditions. Drifted snow, some with windslab, neve still good in places.The gully went well though. Snow a few cm deep in the cwm and is not consolidated There were two parties (2 each) on Tower Slabs..they seemed to be happily making their way up. There appeared to be one party of two on Clogwyn Ddu on Y Gully(?).
A party appeared to be topping out of hidden gully as we were on the top plateau. Soft snow on the top, drifting in places, as was the descent to Llyn y Cwn (we commented it was one of the easiest descents from the glyder we had made). Nice day, one or two brief snow showers was all we saw. Sunny with blue skies at times, with good views to Tryfan and the Carneddau. .The screen was about a third complete, but melting and the odd chunk of ice fell as we walked past down the kitchen path.A really good day
In the Cwm today. Three of us soloed Tower Gully. Very mixed snow conditions. Drifted snow, some with windslab, neve still good in places.The gully went well though. Snow a few cm deep in the cwm and is not consolidated There were two parties (2 each) on Tower Slabs..they seemed to be happily making their way up. There appeared to be one party of two on Clogwyn Ddu on Y Gully(?).
A party appeared to be topping out of hidden gully as we were on the top plateau. Soft snow on the top, drifting in places, as was the descent to Llyn y Cwn (we commented it was one of the easiest descents from the glyder we had made). Nice day, one or two brief snow showers was all we saw. Sunny with blue skies at times, with good views to Tryfan and the Carneddau. .The screen was about a third complete, but melting and the odd chunk of ice fell as we walked past down the kitchen path.A really good day
Yeh, around 4-6 inches of fresh snow in there, ice still in good nick, warm temps and thawing from lunch time but significantly colder at 5pm. Will be good in the Cwm tomorrow after this thaw, its below freezing outside the house now.
In reply to Mr Eddie: Covered in powder sounds full winter to me
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I was out last night. The turf was rock hard and ice was forming at about 200m. It was -6. Absolutely stunning night though - thousands and thousands of stars.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Just keepin' this going.
Yesterday backed off Crib Lem due to loose powder snow as we were with early and pre-teen boys. Just a bit of freeze thaw would settle it.
Back weekend and hoping things firm up
Yesterday backed off Crib Lem due to loose powder snow as we were with early and pre-teen boys. Just a bit of freeze thaw would settle it.
Back weekend and hoping things firm up
In reply to Alex Buisse:
A bit of a late reply,but we climbed Eastern Gully on Sunday.We went up the furthest right of those direct route ice falls(as suggested in the guide book)yet there were no signs of anyone having climbed this part.No chips, or ice screw holes.Did you climb further left on the first part?Or does the ice cover up climber's tracks overnight?This does not seem to happen on ice in Scotland.It must be a Welsh habit.(By the way I am not implying that you did not go up the ice).Certainly you were not the only ones to climb Eastern Gully on Saturday,so I would have expected to see some marks somewhere.
A bit of a late reply,but we climbed Eastern Gully on Sunday.We went up the furthest right of those direct route ice falls(as suggested in the guide book)yet there were no signs of anyone having climbed this part.No chips, or ice screw holes.Did you climb further left on the first part?Or does the ice cover up climber's tracks overnight?This does not seem to happen on ice in Scotland.It must be a Welsh habit.(By the way I am not implying that you did not go up the ice).Certainly you were not the only ones to climb Eastern Gully on Saturday,so I would have expected to see some marks somewhere.
In reply to Mike Peacock: ...all out of kilter with days doh! (it felt like the weekend yesterday)...your post was this am not last week!
Yes, very cold as we left and the new snow won't be consolidating unless it thaws a little today
Yes, very cold as we left and the new snow won't be consolidating unless it thaws a little today
In reply to veteye:
I'm guessing you were the guys we met on the walk in from Gerlan ? we ended up in Cwn Glas Bach and there really wasn't any sign of traffic there either (less classic than Eastern, admittedly).
I'm guessing you were the guys we met on the walk in from Gerlan ? we ended up in Cwn Glas Bach and there really wasn't any sign of traffic there either (less classic than Eastern, admittedly).
In reply to GrahamD:
Yes, you are the people from Cambridge?
The neve/snow in the gully proper was a bit variable.Probably due to traffic,and also new snow.
Yes, you are the people from Cambridge?
The neve/snow in the gully proper was a bit variable.Probably due to traffic,and also new snow.
In reply to veteye:
That's us.
Fresh snow on the upper reaches made what should have been easy ground less secure, and a load of steps lower down were basically (well) frozen turf. The best section was actually on ice in the water course below the route !
That's us.
Fresh snow on the upper reaches made what should have been easy ground less secure, and a load of steps lower down were basically (well) frozen turf. The best section was actually on ice in the water course below the route !
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
snow down to 600 blue skies , so much in nick , get out the weekend. there will be gullys, mixed, ridges et etc all in nick above 6-700 metres. No point asking lots of ? ladders, Glogwen Ddu, Snowdon Y Garn will be tops plus any slope gully line high which as neve on
enjoy
snow down to 600 blue skies , so much in nick , get out the weekend. there will be gullys, mixed, ridges et etc all in nick above 6-700 metres. No point asking lots of ? ladders, Glogwen Ddu, Snowdon Y Garn will be tops plus any slope gully line high which as neve on
enjoy
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: mmd:The gullys may well have neve in them but by weekend will they have a foot of loose power on top its looking so be carefull out there.
Went out today despite having a bad back (soldier on etc etc...) Up to Cwm Cneifion first and did Pinnacle Gully, then dropped back into the cwm and did Right Hand Pinnacle Gully.
Then popped over the top of the Gribin, and dropped down the other side, and did Main Gully on Glyder Fach, which is classed in the guide book as 260m grade II. However a slightly different story today. A LOT of fresh snow in there, a foot and much more in places, felt very precarious and unstable to me (although I will be the first to admit that I am no expert). So climbed up to the right on mixed ground, which felt to me more like II/III or maybe III.
Treated to an inversion on the tops, got some fantastic alpine like pics. Can't be bothered doing blog now though, so will do it in the morning.
Then popped over the top of the Gribin, and dropped down the other side, and did Main Gully on Glyder Fach, which is classed in the guide book as 260m grade II. However a slightly different story today. A LOT of fresh snow in there, a foot and much more in places, felt very precarious and unstable to me (although I will be the first to admit that I am no expert). So climbed up to the right on mixed ground, which felt to me more like II/III or maybe III.
Treated to an inversion on the tops, got some fantastic alpine like pics. Can't be bothered doing blog now though, so will do it in the morning.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Stunning day today. Having soloed an easy line in the back of Cneifion yesterday which had some good neve on, I went to Parsley Fern today. Left hand was pretty unconsolidated and involved increasing amounts of wading so backed off. The only other team around branched back right onto the buttress between the two PF routes.We went up the main line with a diversion left at the top. This was certainly more secure but steps still crumbled in places. More fresh stuff in than I had imagined.
Fantastic on the top. Very few tracks to/from Crib Goch. Usual numpties in trainers on zig-zags. Trinity face looking as splendid as I can recall in 20 years. Seemed to be one set of steps on Left and Right Hand Trinity. No idea about conditions.
Fantastic on the top. Very few tracks to/from Crib Goch. Usual numpties in trainers on zig-zags. Trinity face looking as splendid as I can recall in 20 years. Seemed to be one set of steps on Left and Right Hand Trinity. No idea about conditions.
I went for a walk on Snowdon today. Very wintry there.Lovely day with cloud inversion I have seen team of two on trinity face very close to the top. Lots of people without any equipment. I have seen family of 5 heading to Crib Goch. They had no idea where they were going.No ice axes crampons of course. I adviced them not to go there and seemed to listen
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Saw avalanche debris in Cwm Ffynnon lloer today, be careful till the snows consolidated a bit folks.
However the ice up high is great.
Saw avalanche debris in Cwm Ffynnon lloer today, be careful till the snows consolidated a bit folks.
However the ice up high is great.
In reply to peak pie eater: I was up in Cwn Fynnon Lloer yesterday having a play on the ice lowdown. I first went and had a look at Broad Gully but there was alot of spindrift coming down so I went and soloed hourglass gully instead. That too was quite unconsolidated and I was quite pleased to summit after wading through fresh snow.
I echo what others have said about being careful!!!
I echo what others have said about being careful!!!
In reply to Mr Eddie:
We topped out on to the end of Crib Goch ridge after doing Sinister Gully on Sat. The last 100 metres of the ridge to the summit of Crib Y Ddysgl was a very narrow crest of snow with an 8 inch foot trench trodden into it. You needed a steady head and it was definitely full on winter conditions. Given the amount of snow in the last few days I would guess this hasn't got any easier. I've no idea what the rest of the ridge is like as we descended down the PYG track.
We topped out on to the end of Crib Goch ridge after doing Sinister Gully on Sat. The last 100 metres of the ridge to the summit of Crib Y Ddysgl was a very narrow crest of snow with an 8 inch foot trench trodden into it. You needed a steady head and it was definitely full on winter conditions. Given the amount of snow in the last few days I would guess this hasn't got any easier. I've no idea what the rest of the ridge is like as we descended down the PYG track.
In reply to trek: did you take a squiz a clogwn du? and more importantly was it white or black?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
A bunch of us are heading up this weekend, any reports of conditions are eagerly awaited!
Thanks
Si
A bunch of us are heading up this weekend, any reports of conditions are eagerly awaited!
Thanks
Si
In reply to mux:
Looked whiter than it has done for a while. If you pm me your email I will send you a pic
Looked whiter than it has done for a while. If you pm me your email I will send you a pic
In reply to trek: tis done sir
Not long home from a good day on Sinister Gully - some dodgy snow - areas of soft slab and large accumulations of grauple so we approached cautiously. Crux pitch in fine nick.
Snowing very heavily in deiniolen - so watch out for area of fresh slab on top of graupel! Could do with a warm day then it getting properly baltic again. I'll put some photos on my blog - you'll have to google it tho!
Rory Shaw
Snowing very heavily in deiniolen - so watch out for area of fresh slab on top of graupel! Could do with a warm day then it getting properly baltic again. I'll put some photos on my blog - you'll have to google it tho!
Rory Shaw
In reply to The Rorster:
Found it!!
Looks like a crackin day out....
Am over there 2mz and Sat, sadly only walking but nice to see some pics of the conds anyhoo...
Found it!!
Looks like a crackin day out....
Am over there 2mz and Sat, sadly only walking but nice to see some pics of the conds anyhoo...
Anyone know what conditions are like in the southern end of the park? We've got a week in Dinas Mawddwy from Saturday and I'm wondering about Grade I/II routes around Cadair.
In reply to haydn:
Best to ask Huw Gilbert, he is is based down there & I'm sure won't mind filling you in on conditions. Here is his website: http://www.climbmountains.co.uk/
Best to ask Huw Gilbert, he is is based down there & I'm sure won't mind filling you in on conditions. Here is his website: http://www.climbmountains.co.uk/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Just got back from Cwn Cneifion. About 6inches of unconsolidated loose snow. Was still coming down when we left, though a couple of parties went past us, one intending to do Manx Wall. Were planning to do Clogwyn Lefthand, but thought better of it. All the ice in Idwal is pretty mushy or gone. Higher up needs a couple of hard freezes really.
Just got back from Cwn Cneifion. About 6inches of unconsolidated loose snow. Was still coming down when we left, though a couple of parties went past us, one intending to do Manx Wall. Were planning to do Clogwyn Lefthand, but thought better of it. All the ice in Idwal is pretty mushy or gone. Higher up needs a couple of hard freezes really.
In reply to haydn: If you hear anything, could you post it back on here so we can all see it? I'd be interested in heading over towards cadair if its looking good!?
Just back from Gribbin ridge and down the kitchen path. Loads of new snow up there!
Knee deep unconsolidated snow on the plateau - good skiing I should think!
Easy gullies will be pretty much out of the question - ridges will be best tomorrow.
Ice in Cwm Idwal is getting there but nothing quite complete. Needs a few more cold days.
Knee deep unconsolidated snow on the plateau - good skiing I should think!
Easy gullies will be pretty much out of the question - ridges will be best tomorrow.
Ice in Cwm Idwal is getting there but nothing quite complete. Needs a few more cold days.
In reply to AndyWigley:
It would be fantastic if we got another chance at the ice routes which built up in the Devil's Kitchen/Idwal area again this winter season. But surely that is too much to hope for?....Fingers & toes crossed.
It would be fantastic if we got another chance at the ice routes which built up in the Devil's Kitchen/Idwal area again this winter season. But surely that is too much to hope for?....Fingers & toes crossed.
In reply to trek: Another fantastic day out. Went up Crib Goch north ridge in blissfull solitude then along the crest to the pinnacles - this is really well tracked out and pretty straight forward apart from the exposed moves to gain the last pinnacle. Then carried on over Crib y Ddysgyl to Carnedd Ugain and after rescuing a very scared man of the top off Parsley fern (he had no crampons with him!) I descended said Gully which was full of soft snow which meant that I enjoyed a good bumslide most of the way down!
Photos on my blog
Rory Shaw
Photos on my blog
Rory Shaw
In reply to AndyWigley: Did The ramp on fri, it was thin but was still well worth it. Meet a team who had just done the steam but that looked very wet, Didn't see any other lines complete. Went up central trinity today in deep powder until the mid ice bit, teams on rigth hand and others. Saw some two lads in skateboard trainers and hoodies, no bags, just about to summit, made me smile a bit. good two days...
In reply to jimjimjim:
Interesting that you got The Ramp done, that makes me happy & optimistic for next week!
this really is one bloody good winter we are having!
Interesting that you got The Ramp done, that makes me happy & optimistic for next week!
this really is one bloody good winter we are having!
In reply to trek:
Took a look into Cwm ffynnon lloer today. Not much in nick tbh too much frsh snow. Nice layer of 4 inch powder on top of 3 inches of graupel which made for some interesting snow conditions.
Quite a few teams backed of broad gully. Hasty pit failed on third pull with the graupel layer. Y gullies were partly stripped by previous avalanche and with a strong swimming action were just about passable but not really 'in'. Large cornices on the back wall.
Not the best day for easy snow climbs but falling asleep in the sunshine on the way down with the sun and a fabulous view meant it was definitely not a wasted trip.
Took a look into Cwm ffynnon lloer today. Not much in nick tbh too much frsh snow. Nice layer of 4 inch powder on top of 3 inches of graupel which made for some interesting snow conditions.
Quite a few teams backed of broad gully. Hasty pit failed on third pull with the graupel layer. Y gullies were partly stripped by previous avalanche and with a strong swimming action were just about passable but not really 'in'. Large cornices on the back wall.
Not the best day for easy snow climbs but falling asleep in the sunshine on the way down with the sun and a fabulous view meant it was definitely not a wasted trip.
In reply to Mr Ed:
We did right hand trinity today, snow was deep on the approach and a little suspect. However once established conditions were fantastic. There is a very large cornice now looming above this route and a little burrowing was required to make our exit through a previously excavated tunnel. Hope the fellas that were following us had a good time also.
We did right hand trinity today, snow was deep on the approach and a little suspect. However once established conditions were fantastic. There is a very large cornice now looming above this route and a little burrowing was required to make our exit through a previously excavated tunnel. Hope the fellas that were following us had a good time also.
In reply to mmd:
L/h wasn't in great nick at all. The ice was shite lower down and the start of the third pitch was dropping in bits. We bailed, others with bigger balls made it up.
L/h wasn't in great nick at all. The ice was shite lower down and the start of the third pitch was dropping in bits. We bailed, others with bigger balls made it up.
In reply to RobE:
My friend Mike Lelliot texted me the following:
"I soloed Eastern arete on Black Ladders today. Lots of snow so had to dig for axe placements sometimes. Foot deep powder on plateau but good neve. Good ice on the slabs at bottom of the route. Teams on Pyramid and Central Gullies."
My friend Mike Lelliot texted me the following:
"I soloed Eastern arete on Black Ladders today. Lots of snow so had to dig for axe placements sometimes. Foot deep powder on plateau but good neve. Good ice on the slabs at bottom of the route. Teams on Pyramid and Central Gullies."
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Rob, sorry to be critical, but if that was shit, then you better give up climbing. How you can say it was crap ice i will never know
Rob, sorry to be critical, but if that was shit, then you better give up climbing. How you can say it was crap ice i will never know
In reply to mmd:
The start of the second pitch was protectable only by a pushed-in screw and the whole pitch felt necky for III on less than convincing placments. The two Belfast lads ahead of us felt the same, as did the guy who appeared behind as we bailed (Was that you? You've changed your tune...)
The first 10-15 metres or so for the 3rd pitch were rotten and looked unprotectable. Ice was better in the depression to the right, but that's a steeper option.
No idea what the 100 metres of II above on the exit slopes was like, but if it was anythng like the approach it would have been two feet deep in graupel. The guys behind us seemed to be taking a long time pitching it all, and as far as we could see topped out as dusk fell.
If anyone else does the route and finds conditions less than favourable you can escape from the top of the 2nd pitch with a long traverse out right along the terrace.
I'll give up when I'm good and ready.
The start of the second pitch was protectable only by a pushed-in screw and the whole pitch felt necky for III on less than convincing placments. The two Belfast lads ahead of us felt the same, as did the guy who appeared behind as we bailed (Was that you? You've changed your tune...)
The first 10-15 metres or so for the 3rd pitch were rotten and looked unprotectable. Ice was better in the depression to the right, but that's a steeper option.
No idea what the 100 metres of II above on the exit slopes was like, but if it was anythng like the approach it would have been two feet deep in graupel. The guys behind us seemed to be taking a long time pitching it all, and as far as we could see topped out as dusk fell.
If anyone else does the route and finds conditions less than favourable you can escape from the top of the 2nd pitch with a long traverse out right along the terrace.
I'll give up when I'm good and ready.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Double checked with my friends, they did Pyramid saying it was really good , not L/H which is why i was surprised you said it was poor . So your correct as you have been on L/H.
Double checked with my friends, they did Pyramid saying it was really good , not L/H which is why i was surprised you said it was poor . So your correct as you have been on L/H.
In reply to mmd:
Yes, the overall grade has been upped from III/IV to IV. The second pitch is still tech 3 though, and felt hard for that technical grade. With better placements and gear it would have felt OK.
Yes, the overall grade has been upped from III/IV to IV. The second pitch is still tech 3 though, and felt hard for that technical grade. With better placements and gear it would have felt OK.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Thought rob e was a friends user name, hence the comments . Turns out I am wrong. Sorry
Thought rob e was a friends user name, hence the comments . Turns out I am wrong. Sorry
Given the Winter we ve had/having and being just a tad superstitous, does anyone else think we should give the honours of starting this thread next season to Charlie Burbridge? He almost seems like a mate now.
With you on that one, I will drink to Charlie Burbridge. Lets hope it keeps on coming, Indian Summer, now we have an Alpine Winter, bring it on!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
So I have been informed by a friend there is big big news in wales this weekend.
So I have been informed by a friend there is big big news in wales this weekend.
In reply to mmd: On the edge of my seat.....do tell
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Clogwyn du yesterday;
mixed lines all in, gear was hard fought at times though.
party on left hand had fun but mentioned the ice was thin, screws being tied off.
Deep fluff to walk in.. bit of a slog getting there and almost a ski out.
warming up as we left but shouldnt have too much of an impact...
at least I hope not ..i'd like to get out again at the weekend.
if your off this week it would be well worth it.
mixed lines all in, gear was hard fought at times though.
party on left hand had fun but mentioned the ice was thin, screws being tied off.
Deep fluff to walk in.. bit of a slog getting there and almost a ski out.
warming up as we left but shouldnt have too much of an impact...
at least I hope not ..i'd like to get out again at the weekend.
if your off this week it would be well worth it.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: A crisp still bright morning here in Capel - a refreeze after yestwerday afternoons thaw
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I was climbing on Glyder Fach yesterday - hung around the car park in the morning, hoping someone else would break trail, but to no avail! In the end we trudged in, wading through some very deep snow; all very tiring and time consuming.
Crag was plastered - full winter conditions!
Looks like even more snow later this week...
Crag was plastered - full winter conditions!
Looks like even more snow later this week...
In reply to Simon Panton:
Was it you that did Arch Gully then? Is that the same route as the summer climb which gets a D gade?
What winter grade does it get?
> I was climbing on Glyder Fach yesterday -
Was it you that did Arch Gully then? Is that the same route as the summer climb which gets a D gade?
What winter grade does it get?
In reply to trek:
D grade that should be!
D grade that should be!
In reply to Jim Hamilton:
He did a new route yesterday up there called Erazerhead, comes in at a grade VIII
He did a new route yesterday up there called Erazerhead, comes in at a grade VIII
In reply to trek: Yes, it was myself and Dafydd Davis. We thought V 4/5, 5, 5 and excellent quality. The top pitch is amazing, one of the best I've done this season.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
4cm of snow arriving on Thursday according to the forcast below
http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Snowdon/6day/mid
Was hoping to climb on Sunday 28th Feb, maybe Hourglass Gully, it looks like the snow is calming down after Thursday. Do you think 2 days of freezing conditions will consolidate the snow at all?
4cm of snow arriving on Thursday according to the forcast below
http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Snowdon/6day/mid
Was hoping to climb on Sunday 28th Feb, maybe Hourglass Gully, it looks like the snow is calming down after Thursday. Do you think 2 days of freezing conditions will consolidate the snow at all?
In reply to philhilo: It has been a great thread and the best winter for as long as I can remember. In fairness, I think we all do the same thing in late October - watch the temperature dip, bit by bit and hope. Welsh Winters are very different from Scottish and water ice under clear blue skies is never a chore! It is also rare not to meet with good blokes (and female equivalents) in Wales in winter. I am certain that the last few days and weeks of winter will turn into a great spring on the rock!
Here's hoping,
Charlie
Here's hoping,
Charlie
In reply to MattKelk: I was out on Pen yr Ole Wen last wednesday and soloed hourglass after having a look at broad gully. There was alot of spindrift and unconsolidated snow from the start but hopefully it has now consolidated which will make it a bit easier going.
In reply to trek: Ta!
In reply to trek:
What are conditions like up on trinity face?
What are conditions like up on trinity face?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Whats the weather doing there at the moment, will there be any snow consolidation for a winter climb on Sunday or will it be a ridge walk instead?
Whats the weather doing there at the moment, will there be any snow consolidation for a winter climb on Sunday or will it be a ridge walk instead?
Thinking of taking a walking up and around tal y fan at the weekend. I was wondering if any knows what the conditions are like in the area? ta
In reply to MattKelk:
My mate did crib goch & crib dysgil ridges yesterday and said it was deep deep powder snow (waist deep in places), obviously not that deep on the ridge crest, but you get the picture.
I am heading down tomorrow, not sure what I will be doing yet (have put a post on here looking for a climbing partner), but will be going regardless and will post on here and on my blog what I find.
I notice that tomorrow & the next day are forecast to be quite mild, so if we get a bit of thaw then it freezes again, the weekend MIGHT still prove good.
Will do my very best to search out that neve I promise!
My mate did crib goch & crib dysgil ridges yesterday and said it was deep deep powder snow (waist deep in places), obviously not that deep on the ridge crest, but you get the picture.
I am heading down tomorrow, not sure what I will be doing yet (have put a post on here looking for a climbing partner), but will be going regardless and will post on here and on my blog what I find.
I notice that tomorrow & the next day are forecast to be quite mild, so if we get a bit of thaw then it freezes again, the weekend MIGHT still prove good.
Will do my very best to search out that neve I promise!
In reply to trek: The wife went out last night and did a route in Idwal, said it was solid ice, really secure, but loads of powder in the gullies.
Some pics:
http://sarzmountainrun.blogspot.com/2010/02/too-knackered-to-run-so.html
Some pics:
http://sarzmountainrun.blogspot.com/2010/02/too-knackered-to-run-so.html
In reply to shunty:
< What are conditions like up on trinity face? >
Did Cave Gully and Ladies gully on Sat am. There was a lot of powder snow on the approach and the initial grade 2 pitches on both climbs. The ice was in pretty good nick on the crux pitches but unconsolidated snow on the exit pitches. Good fun all the same. Things will have changed as there was a heavy fall of snow overnight on Sat night and we elected to do Tryfan North ridge instead of our original plan of Clogwyn Ddu. Quite hard on Tryfan, had to break trail all the way and a lot of holds hidden under deep fresh snow.
What was Clogwyn Ddu/Idwal like on Sun?
< What are conditions like up on trinity face? >
Did Cave Gully and Ladies gully on Sat am. There was a lot of powder snow on the approach and the initial grade 2 pitches on both climbs. The ice was in pretty good nick on the crux pitches but unconsolidated snow on the exit pitches. Good fun all the same. Things will have changed as there was a heavy fall of snow overnight on Sat night and we elected to do Tryfan North ridge instead of our original plan of Clogwyn Ddu. Quite hard on Tryfan, had to break trail all the way and a lot of holds hidden under deep fresh snow.
What was Clogwyn Ddu/Idwal like on Sun?
In reply to IainRUK:
Ian thanks for that. So Idwal Stream is in condition right now is it?
Does anyone know about The Ramp?
Might head there tomorrow if it is.
Ian thanks for that. So Idwal Stream is in condition right now is it?
Does anyone know about The Ramp?
Might head there tomorrow if it is.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Was in on Clogwyn Du today - tried Clogwyn LH but were forced to traverse off to the right, using a variety of techniques!! Ice was very brittle and thin but climbable for the brave / better than me. there was avalanche debris in Cwm Cneifion - about 150m right of the arete, complete with crown wall. Not huge but could have been very serious if it was confined and certainly big enough to knock you over / give you a scare!! Managed to get up and down route without encountering any dodgy slopes - descended Seniors ridge before cutting right. Was some good snow in places and the ice in Clogwyn RH was great.
In reply to rusty8850: By the way lost my camera up there. In the extremely remote chance you find it let me know !!
In reply to shunty: Shunty we did cave gully today. hard walk in on soft snow, slabbed on top layer above powder. The spider and the fly are now one large snow field with wind slab on top. Opted for the afore mentioned route. Snow not to bad up to the ice groove, which was thin. snow to the top was soft but supportive, small cornice. Wind was v strong and it started snowing again at 3pm. The snow in the pass is down to the road and v deep in places. Road was clear though. Hope this helps
Wills
Wills
In reply to trek: Stream and Ramp are complete but ice is thin in places and water running behind stream. High winds on the tops today, deep powder in easy gullies unless exposed and wind blown. some unstable cornices. Due to warm up so avalanche risk I guess will be high. Pray for a thaw, freeze and conditions will be fantastic
In reply to rusty8850:
any idea where in the Cwm? going up on thursday so will take an extra look around if you like
any idea where in the Cwm? going up on thursday so will take an extra look around if you like
In reply to trek:
Me and a mate are out in Snowdonia Sunday, welcome to join us.
Me and a mate are out in Snowdonia Sunday, welcome to join us.
In reply to MattKelk:
Thanks for the invite Matt, but I'm in Scotland on the weekend.
Another time for sure though.
Thanks for the invite Matt, but I'm in Scotland on the weekend.
Another time for sure though.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Ambled up Broad Gully yesterday, snow deep in parts and unconsolidated, sheared easily.
Not a great choice at the moment.
Ambled up Broad Gully yesterday, snow deep in parts and unconsolidated, sheared easily.
Not a great choice at the moment.
In reply to DR.S not logged one: Anyone been out up around Clogwyn Du today? How bad is it up there?
cheers
Jon
cheers
Jon
In reply to chummer: I was in cwm cneifion today with a mate and there was alot of unconsolidated snow and evidence of avalanche debris. We looked over at Clogwyn Du from the Cneifion and that looked like it needed a few days to bond and consolidate after freash snowfall last night.
Hope thats helpful
Hope thats helpful
In reply to climber_medic: Indeed it is, nice one for that, was thinking of hidden gully with me old man, maybe not such a good idea eh?!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Just checked snow-forecast.com, more snow coming in on Friday. Going to keep away from the gullies on Sunday and do a ridge walk/climb.
Any suggestions for a pleasant walk?
Just checked snow-forecast.com, more snow coming in on Friday. Going to keep away from the gullies on Sunday and do a ridge walk/climb.
Any suggestions for a pleasant walk?
In reply to MattKelk: Moel Eilio.
In reply to MattKelk:
Sorry forgot to say in Snowdonia.
Sorry forgot to say in Snowdonia.
In reply to MattKelk: I suspect I'll be sticking to ridges at the weekend. Blizzards and gales forecast for Sunday though. Might be a day for a lower level bimble somewhere.
A round of Crimpiau, Craig Wen and Creigiau Gleision (from Capel) and back via Llyn Crafnant is always pleasant if you want a walk. Not too high so might avoid the worst weather.
A round of Crimpiau, Craig Wen and Creigiau Gleision (from Capel) and back via Llyn Crafnant is always pleasant if you want a walk. Not too high so might avoid the worst weather.
On Trinity today in the hope of some action.Witnessed 4 Avalanches.Conditions very poor at the moment.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
I went up to Idwal today and soloed The Ramp & Idwal Stream. Both were perfectly climbable, but melting very fast as it was a very warm day today.
I was hit by ice falling dowh The Ramp on several occassions, the largest piece being about the size of my 5 year old daughter, which ricocheted off my shoulder but somehow didnt knock me off! I realised at that point it wasn't the most sensible route choice.
After I had finished and was walking back along the Idwal path, just by the stream, there was one almighty crash as a roughly 20 foot section of the Devils Appendix fell off. Echoed round the whole cwm.
Very poor snow conditions though. I imagine the avalanche risk is very high in gullies especially at the moment.
I went up to Idwal today and soloed The Ramp & Idwal Stream. Both were perfectly climbable, but melting very fast as it was a very warm day today.
I was hit by ice falling dowh The Ramp on several occassions, the largest piece being about the size of my 5 year old daughter, which ricocheted off my shoulder but somehow didnt knock me off! I realised at that point it wasn't the most sensible route choice.
After I had finished and was walking back along the Idwal path, just by the stream, there was one almighty crash as a roughly 20 foot section of the Devils Appendix fell off. Echoed round the whole cwm.
Very poor snow conditions though. I imagine the avalanche risk is very high in gullies especially at the moment.
In reply to Mike Peacock:
just saw the blizzards forecast on Sunday too, be climbing indoors at this rate!
just saw the blizzards forecast on Sunday too, be climbing indoors at this rate!
In reply to chummer: I would say not mate. I'm no expert but the conditions seem to need a bit of time to sort themselves out and with more snow forecast it might take a while. Be safe and perhaps stay away from any gully routes for the time being.
In reply to trek: glad to know you are back safe & well.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: It looks like a lot of melting went on yesterday, with high temps again today. Climbed at Tremadog in a t-shirt yesterday afternoon instead!
In reply to trek:
Think you've got serious thrill issues, dude!
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge)
>
> I went up to Idwal today and soloed The Ramp & Idwal Stream. Both were perfectly climbable, but melting very fast as it was a very warm day today.
> I was hit by ice falling dowh The Ramp on several occassions, the largest piece being about the size of my 5 year old daughter, which ricocheted off my shoulder but somehow didnt knock me off! I realised at that point it wasn't the most sensible route choice.
> After I had finished and was walking back along the Idwal path, just by the stream, there was one almighty crash as a roughly 20 foot section of the Devils Appendix fell off. Echoed round the whole cwm.
>
> Very poor snow conditions though. I imagine the avalanche risk is very high in gullies especially at the moment.
>
> I went up to Idwal today and soloed The Ramp & Idwal Stream. Both were perfectly climbable, but melting very fast as it was a very warm day today.
> I was hit by ice falling dowh The Ramp on several occassions, the largest piece being about the size of my 5 year old daughter, which ricocheted off my shoulder but somehow didnt knock me off! I realised at that point it wasn't the most sensible route choice.
> After I had finished and was walking back along the Idwal path, just by the stream, there was one almighty crash as a roughly 20 foot section of the Devils Appendix fell off. Echoed round the whole cwm.
>
> Very poor snow conditions though. I imagine the avalanche risk is very high in gullies especially at the moment.
Think you've got serious thrill issues, dude!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Whats the conditions like up Snowdonia today. My train from Glasgow to fort William is cancelled tomorrow so need my fix
Andy
Andy
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
this is a bit of a long shot but i'm looking fro two blokes called john and jim who were cclimbing in scotland last week in the cic hut main cascade on the ben last wednesday
john is a teacher from llandgela, jim was ginger i think (sorry if you wasn't ginger.. must've been the light?!)
anyway john took some poics of me leading the climb.. name's andrea, i'm messaging from my partner's log in who was climbing with me on the
they said they'd sen me the pics but i'm wondering if they have the wrong email address.. can any one help.. anyone think they know them?
cheers
andrea (the lass with only 4 ice screws!)
this is a bit of a long shot but i'm looking fro two blokes called john and jim who were cclimbing in scotland last week in the cic hut main cascade on the ben last wednesday
john is a teacher from llandgela, jim was ginger i think (sorry if you wasn't ginger.. must've been the light?!)
anyway john took some poics of me leading the climb.. name's andrea, i'm messaging from my partner's log in who was climbing with me on the
they said they'd sen me the pics but i'm wondering if they have the wrong email address.. can any one help.. anyone think they know them?
cheers
andrea (the lass with only 4 ice screws!)
In reply to Shuttsie:
I have a feeling they might have been john and jim from llanberis - try giving v12 a call as your description fits the culprits!
bryn
I have a feeling they might have been john and jim from llanberis - try giving v12 a call as your description fits the culprits!
bryn
In reply to Shuttsie: As Bryn says, it's got to be Jimmy 'Big Guns' McCormack - he works in the V12 shop in Llanberis.
Anyone been upto black ladders this week? is anything in?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Just a quick one to let people know the free pdf topos on the Welsh Winter Wiki and Scribd for Clogyn Du, Devil's Kitchen and Black Ladders have all been updated with all the new routes done so far this winter plus a few other changes.
welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/
www.scribd.com/ (use the search to find the topos0.
Cheers,
Pete.
welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/
www.scribd.com/ (use the search to find the topos0.
Cheers,
Pete.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: any news on current conditions?
In reply to carrot_boy: The armchair's comfy and it looks windy outside.
Sorry.
It's forecasting approx 600 - 900m freezing levels, it's windy and there's loads of snow left. So take your pick and watch for windslab.
Sorry.
It's forecasting approx 600 - 900m freezing levels, it's windy and there's loads of snow left. So take your pick and watch for windslab.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
lots of snow in nameless cwm some ice also . climbed the ramp yesterday traversing in above the first pitches
> Okay, its that time of year. Lets start the thread. It is warm and wet but it is going to get colder and the water might freeze.
lots of snow in nameless cwm some ice also . climbed the ramp yesterday traversing in above the first pitches
In reply to neilblake67: Nameless Cwm thursday
A long soggy walk in mild weather and mist. Ploughed a furrow up to Clogwyn Du in firm ish but wet snow. Some evidence around or minor slides, and debris around, Small Corniches I would Imagine will drop in the next 24 hrs if the temps stay as is.
We walked in centre right on the approach to stay clear of stuff on the slops before Tower slabs and headed for Clogwyn Right hand.
LH looked complete enough but no where near cold enough.
RH was fine, some very good ice interlinked with soggy snow patches which improved on the last pitch. Rock clean and clear. The finish is entertaining getting around a little icy overhang – last move of the route.
Frankly I wouldn’t go near the place ( apart for RH) unless the temps drop. If they do a lot of climbing could be stunning conditions.
Drop down via the Kitchen, South, Central, Ramp, Screen, Curtain all there and would be climbable with a couple or three cold days, Cellar RH is iced all the way to the top as is South, Chicane – BUT – needs cold cold and more cold to stay there.
Hope this is useful
A long soggy walk in mild weather and mist. Ploughed a furrow up to Clogwyn Du in firm ish but wet snow. Some evidence around or minor slides, and debris around, Small Corniches I would Imagine will drop in the next 24 hrs if the temps stay as is.
We walked in centre right on the approach to stay clear of stuff on the slops before Tower slabs and headed for Clogwyn Right hand.
LH looked complete enough but no where near cold enough.
RH was fine, some very good ice interlinked with soggy snow patches which improved on the last pitch. Rock clean and clear. The finish is entertaining getting around a little icy overhang – last move of the route.
Frankly I wouldn’t go near the place ( apart for RH) unless the temps drop. If they do a lot of climbing could be stunning conditions.
Drop down via the Kitchen, South, Central, Ramp, Screen, Curtain all there and would be climbable with a couple or three cold days, Cellar RH is iced all the way to the top as is South, Chicane – BUT – needs cold cold and more cold to stay there.
Hope this is useful
In reply to AB1965:yep, cheers pal.. was going to take taylor senior up 2mora but will do a bit of rock climbing instead and save myself for 3 days up scotland next week..
In reply to nickcanute: see you in scotland -Im off to Fort William on Sunday for the week.
Where you heading?
Where you heading?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Anyone been out today?
Freezing level is supposed to be 650m for tomorrow.
Allan
Anyone been out today?
Freezing level is supposed to be 650m for tomorrow.
Allan
Was up in Cwm Cneifion today, did lefthand and right hand and found them both to be excellent, LH thin at the very bottom but very climbable. Some crazy non-stop spindrift moments though....and thanks for all those constant ice bombs from the step-cutting-cramponless-doctors who bailed right off Pillar Chimney!
(I dropped a red dmm screamer up there today if anyone found it and is feeling good natured.)
(I dropped a red dmm screamer up there today if anyone found it and is feeling good natured.)
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Just back from Cwm Glas. Had plans to do Gyrn Las Ridge but backed off it as the snow was a bit rubbish - still quite soft on the interesting section. Ended up descending a loose gully into lower Cwm Glas and climbing up to Llyn Glas which was frozen. Descended down the Afon Las which was banked up with lots of snow, so we managed to glissade down the entire gorge/stream! Great fun.
There were lots of other people heading to upper Cwm Glas so presume they'll have things to report. Photos later.
There were lots of other people heading to upper Cwm Glas so presume they'll have things to report. Photos later.
I have been joined for the day by regular client Jim who is on my instructor mentor scheme. Today we headed up into Cwm Glas and climbed Sinister Gully. The guidebook gives this III (4) but it felt a grade easier as it was well banked out with snow and there was just one pitch of ice. The snow was in good condition once we were in the upper Cwm and the ice on the route was great. Once we topped out we decided to make the most of the excellent snow conditions and traversed Crib Goch in reverse, descending the East Ridge. A great day out. Photos on the blog as normal.
Rob
Rob
In reply to Rob Johnson:
Good choice Rob, we headed up and did the Horseshoe today, been wanting to get it done in winter. The conditions on the Trinity face didnt look brilliant, with the recent wind direction scouring the summit and surrounding areas and more than likely dumping it there.
Suprised you found good ice with it feeling fairly warm today, fair play!
Allan
Good choice Rob, we headed up and did the Horseshoe today, been wanting to get it done in winter. The conditions on the Trinity face didnt look brilliant, with the recent wind direction scouring the summit and surrounding areas and more than likely dumping it there.
Suprised you found good ice with it feeling fairly warm today, fair play!
Allan
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Photos from today. Nothing terribly exciting but gives an idea of snow levels and such.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623396258015/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623396258015/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Went for a wander up Crib Lem today and the snow was actually quite good. High up the rocks are iced up and the summit slpoes are hard and icey. Couldn`t see for sure but routes on the Ladders looked thin low down. Pyramid and Central gully looking thin at their foot but ice still hanging in there. Don`t know what they are like, but at a guess not climbable.
Went for a wander up Crib Lem today and the snow was actually quite good. High up the rocks are iced up and the summit slpoes are hard and icey. Couldn`t see for sure but routes on the Ladders looked thin low down. Pyramid and Central gully looking thin at their foot but ice still hanging in there. Don`t know what they are like, but at a guess not climbable.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Up on Glyder fawr (upper) today on central gully. it looked quite good from below but the snow was very soggy. The ice was thin and poor but good turf frozen in most places. Needs to cool down a bit. The snow is there though, but for how much longer?
I'll back up Rob's comments, Infidelity, also in Cwm Glas was in pretty good shape today.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: We found a drybag below the tower gully/slabs area yesterday, containing various items. Email me and describe it to arrange for its return.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Cwm Cneifion is still in excellent condition but was quieter today. Neve & ice on the easier routes - on the left as you walk in - were very good; a couple of teams were on that side. The turf on Clogwyn Du was bomb-proof & the ice was generally very good. Left & Right Hand Y Gully looked great....really fat (may both have had ascents), El Mancho, Manx Wall & a new route between that & Pillar Chimney were all climbed. Pillar Chimney looked like it might go too.
Cwm Cneifion is still in excellent condition but was quieter today. Neve & ice on the easier routes - on the left as you walk in - were very good; a couple of teams were on that side. The turf on Clogwyn Du was bomb-proof & the ice was generally very good. Left & Right Hand Y Gully looked great....really fat (may both have had ascents), El Mancho, Manx Wall & a new route between that & Pillar Chimney were all climbed. Pillar Chimney looked like it might go too.
In reply to Rob Johnson: Dear Rob,
Thanks for the post. Your beta meant I had a great day today, helped by an over-enthusiastic MWIS weather forecast leaving the ridge to myself!
Jamie
Thanks for the post. Your beta meant I had a great day today, helped by an over-enthusiastic MWIS weather forecast leaving the ridge to myself!
Jamie
In reply to Jamie Macdonald: Thats awesome - thats what its all about - nice one!
I have been out with the Llanberis MRT today - we were training in the Pass so I have no conditions to report but it was 3c in Llanberis and raining this evening so that will be snow on the tops. I am heading out with a friend tomorrow before it all warms up midweek.
Rob
I have been out with the Llanberis MRT today - we were training in the Pass so I have no conditions to report but it was 3c in Llanberis and raining this evening so that will be snow on the tops. I am heading out with a friend tomorrow before it all warms up midweek.
Rob
Up in the Ladders on Sunday, only one other team there as far as i can see. We did Pyramid Gully which was great, plenty of ice, a great route.
In reply to petejh: So what did you get upto Pete ?
In reply to geoff b: but really its a Vi 6 isnt it geoff !
I was on the wiki ...
you should give your view at the great pint and grade debate annual review, held every year, annualy. Its now almost in its first year.
I was on the wiki ...
you should give your view at the great pint and grade debate annual review, held every year, annualy. Its now almost in its first year.
Going to North Wales this weekend. Looking to knock off Cneifon Arete.
Any on going condition reports would be appeciated by a South Walean.
Staying round the corner from PYB if anyones around. Will hopefully be going to LLAMFF Sat eve.
Any on going condition reports would be appeciated by a South Walean.
Staying round the corner from PYB if anyones around. Will hopefully be going to LLAMFF Sat eve.
After being so impressed with the conditions in Upper Cwm Glas on Saturday Huw and I decided to head back up there today. On our way up we were distracted by some beautiful looking ice that appeared to be calling us from the other side of Cwm Glas. We made a beeline for Face Route (IV) and it looked like it had stepped straight out of the Alps and into Wales. Unfortunately it was sun-baked and very thin and brittle, with water running down behind it and either side of it! I climbed the first 30feet or so and then lowered off with my tail between my legs!
We followed a gully line into Upper Cwm Glas and headed for Waterslide Gully instead. Huw had climbed Infidelity on Saturday which has the same guidebook grade of IV, 5 and reported good conditions. The guidebook warns that the first pitch is hard if thin. It felt harder than anything that we had climbed all winter and we have both climbed technical 6.
We then descended Parsley Fern Gully which in its current condition gave a great bumslide down! A cracking day out. Full report and photos on the blog as normal and I am sure Huw will be doing the same!
Rob
We followed a gully line into Upper Cwm Glas and headed for Waterslide Gully instead. Huw had climbed Infidelity on Saturday which has the same guidebook grade of IV, 5 and reported good conditions. The guidebook warns that the first pitch is hard if thin. It felt harder than anything that we had climbed all winter and we have both climbed technical 6.
We then descended Parsley Fern Gully which in its current condition gave a great bumslide down! A cracking day out. Full report and photos on the blog as normal and I am sure Huw will be doing the same!
Rob
Up on Snowdon today, did Ladies Gully, soft snow in places and the ice pitch was a bit thin but fun, another great route.
Half way up the clouds lifted to reveal a hugely overhung and weighty cornice hanging over the route, its easy to get around but when it falls off its going to come straight down the gully so i'd be avoiding the route on the coming warm days.
Met on pair who did Snowdrop and said it was ice-less. Lots of numpties trying to walk up the pyg track in trainers too, which is quite amusing to watch from your belay...
Half way up the clouds lifted to reveal a hugely overhung and weighty cornice hanging over the route, its easy to get around but when it falls off its going to come straight down the gully so i'd be avoiding the route on the coming warm days.
Met on pair who did Snowdrop and said it was ice-less. Lots of numpties trying to walk up the pyg track in trainers too, which is quite amusing to watch from your belay...
In reply to torquil:
That must have been you who came up after us this morning, when we got down the zigzags we watched you guys in the gully. We were surprised how good the conditions were,a bit soft low down but quite good once in the gully proper.
> Up on Snowdon today, did Ladies Gully, soft snow in places and the ice pitch was a bit thin but fun, another great route.
>
>
That must have been you who came up after us this morning, when we got down the zigzags we watched you guys in the gully. We were surprised how good the conditions were,a bit soft low down but quite good once in the gully proper.
In reply to Jones:
Perfect conditions in Cwm Cneifion today - blue skies, no wind, great neve, fat ice. Cneifion arete is largely free of snow and would have been a great day out today - very alpine.
Perfect conditions in Cwm Cneifion today - blue skies, no wind, great neve, fat ice. Cneifion arete is largely free of snow and would have been a great day out today - very alpine.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Did Sinister Gully Cwm Glas it was in top nick good ice on the main pitch and neve in the gully.Hi Rob Johnson say hello to Huw from Simon and Stan it must have been you two behind us in Cwm Glas Huw took us up South Gully in jan and its helped my climbing alot.
In reply to johnnorman:
I keep being surprised by how climbable things still are, I think i've done my last winter day for the season but then it keeps coming.
I don't suppose you got a photo of us climbing?
> That must have been you who came up after us this morning, when we got down the zigzags we watched you guys in the gully. We were surprised how good the conditions were,a bit soft low down but quite good once in the gully proper.
I keep being surprised by how climbable things still are, I think i've done my last winter day for the season but then it keeps coming.
I don't suppose you got a photo of us climbing?
In reply to torquil:
Yeh the winter keeps hanging on but not for much longer i fear??
I didnt get any photos but my mate did, i`ll e-mail the best ones to you when he e-mails them to me. They were taken with a pocket sized camera so i`m not sure how good they will be but looked ok on the camera.
> (In reply to johnnorman)
>
> [.>
> I don't suppose you got a photo of us climbing?
>
> [.>
> I don't suppose you got a photo of us climbing?
Yeh the winter keeps hanging on but not for much longer i fear??
I didnt get any photos but my mate did, i`ll e-mail the best ones to you when he e-mails them to me. They were taken with a pocket sized camera so i`m not sure how good they will be but looked ok on the camera.
In reply to mux:
I would probably concur; VI 6. Sounds like a done deal if you're buying the pints! How did you know that the scar on my forehead looked like the exclamation mark across the smily!!
All the best
I would probably concur; VI 6. Sounds like a done deal if you're buying the pints! How did you know that the scar on my forehead looked like the exclamation mark across the smily!!
All the best
In reply to Rob Johnson:
Was Waterslide Gully iced? I've been up to it three times and never seen any ice in the first 80ft or so. The weekend before last conditions looked great and the top of it was fat as a cat but nothing at the start. Face route was perfect though as was Infidelity.
Was Waterslide Gully iced? I've been up to it three times and never seen any ice in the first 80ft or so. The weekend before last conditions looked great and the top of it was fat as a cat but nothing at the start. Face route was perfect though as was Infidelity.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Went up Schoolmaster's Gully this morning, bit's of Face Route was starting to fall down, a route I'd love to do when in good condition. Crossed upper Cwm Glas and up West Gully onto the Peason Arete, some difficult mixed sections in places but great route! Then over to Gloggwyn y Garnedd and up Great Gully. After the summit I descended End Gully and had a play on the Pyg track ice crag before walking back to Pen y Pass. Lots of avalanche debris crossing the path off the south facing slopes of Crib Goch.
In reply to geoff b:
I'm trying to get the bolt fund to convert to the "Beer for the 1st Annual Welsh winter grade debate held once a year Annually and Bolt fund".
If this happens I buy all the beer you want.
> (In reply to mux)
> I would probably concur; VI 6. Sounds like a done deal if you're buying the pints!
> I would probably concur; VI 6. Sounds like a done deal if you're buying the pints!
I'm trying to get the bolt fund to convert to the "Beer for the 1st Annual Welsh winter grade debate held once a year Annually and Bolt fund".
If this happens I buy all the beer you want.
In reply to ox: Will do - I am sure he will be on here later too!
In reply to jim jones: I got on Face route yesterday but lowered off as parts of the second pitch came over my head! Waterslide Gully was very thin. It looked totally blank until you got round the first corner of the first pitch and could see the chimney line where there was a thin dribble of snow ice, Huw did very well to get up it as it was peeling off as we climbed. There are photos on both of our blogs, just google Huw Gilbert Mountaineering or Rob Johnson expeditionguide.com.
Cheers
Rob
Cheers
Rob
In reply to ox: Heh Simon and Stan. Glad to hear that your climbing is going well.
In reply to MikeLell: Those were your footprints we followed under Face Route then. We wondered where you had gone.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Does anyone know what the Black Ladders are like?
I see that Pyramid Gully was climbed on Sunday and we have had cold nights since then so ....
I am think of going there tomorrow but it woul be nice to know!
Does anyone know what the Black Ladders are like?
I see that Pyramid Gully was climbed on Sunday and we have had cold nights since then so ....
I am think of going there tomorrow but it woul be nice to know!
In reply to Brian Wilderspin: I can't comment on snow conditions but I've been out doing fieldwork today so have photos of the snow levels. Still plenty around.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623422869933/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623422869933/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
The Trinity gullies were in fine shape yesterday and only 1 other party climbing that we saw. Looked like they were on Couloir, don`t know what that route conditions were like but they were making good progress, otherwise amazingly the Trinity face was deserted! Great gully being an easy but fine solo and for me the best gully there simply because of its position tucked away from the others.
Cwm Cniefion and Clogwyn Du still in great condition today and the forecast is to get colder by the weekend.
The Trinity gullies were in fine shape yesterday and only 1 other party climbing that we saw. Looked like they were on Couloir, don`t know what that route conditions were like but they were making good progress, otherwise amazingly the Trinity face was deserted! Great gully being an easy but fine solo and for me the best gully there simply because of its position tucked away from the others.
Cwm Cniefion and Clogwyn Du still in great condition today and the forecast is to get colder by the weekend.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Been a bit out of touch woth welsh conditions for the last week, been in scotland.
Wondering about sinister gully in upper cwm glas tomorrow (thursday). Any info on chances of it still being climbable?
Or would persons arete be better bet?
Been a bit out of touch woth welsh conditions for the last week, been in scotland.
Wondering about sinister gully in upper cwm glas tomorrow (thursday). Any info on chances of it still being climbable?
Or would persons arete be better bet?
In reply to trek:
Clogwyn Righthand looked well good today
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge)
>
> Or maybe even clogwyn righthand? Whats that like now?
>
> Or maybe even clogwyn righthand? Whats that like now?
Clogwyn Righthand looked well good today
In reply to johnnorman:
Hey guys was up on Glyder Fawr on Sat and think we were climbing Central Gully although I'm not 100% convinced
Is this route the one with the big block wedged in it and you have to climb under, then squeeze up behind it... Or dig more snow out if your to fat to fit through the hole
Hey guys was up on Glyder Fawr on Sat and think we were climbing Central Gully although I'm not 100% convinced
Is this route the one with the big block wedged in it and you have to climb under, then squeeze up behind it... Or dig more snow out if your to fat to fit through the hole
In reply to mark andrews:
Sounds like Central Gully to me.
> (In reply to johnnorman)
>
> >
> Is this route the one with the big block wedged in it and you have to climb under, then squeeze up behind it... Or dig more snow out if your to fat to fit through the hole
>
> >
> Is this route the one with the big block wedged in it and you have to climb under, then squeeze up behind it... Or dig more snow out if your to fat to fit through the hole
Sounds like Central Gully to me.
In reply to trek:
Sinister was in top nick on Monday.
Can't think it would have changed too much since then.
Sinister was in top nick on Monday.
Can't think it would have changed too much since then.
In reply to Brian Wilderspin:
Did Pyramid Gully on Monday if that helps, conditions were good, there was enough ice on the first pitch and plenty on the second, neve was reasonably good, cornice just to the left of the exit showed a large crack.
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge)
> Does anyone know what the Black Ladders are like?
> I see that Pyramid Gully was climbed on Sunday and we have had cold nights since then so ....
> I am think of going there tomorrow but it woul be nice to know!
> Does anyone know what the Black Ladders are like?
> I see that Pyramid Gully was climbed on Sunday and we have had cold nights since then so ....
> I am think of going there tomorrow but it woul be nice to know!
Did Pyramid Gully on Monday if that helps, conditions were good, there was enough ice on the first pitch and plenty on the second, neve was reasonably good, cornice just to the left of the exit showed a large crack.
In reply to mark andrews: Yeah it was central gully. Me and my bro were ahead of you guys. It was a great route, you should of stuck with it. thanks for the sling!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Anyone free to climb at the weekend? My climbin buddy dropped out yesterday.
Anyone free to climb at the weekend? My climbin buddy dropped out yesterday.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Whats the avalanche risk like at the mo? To anyone whoi has been out, has the snow consolidated a bit with the freeze thaw cycles.
Whats the avalanche risk like at the mo? To anyone whoi has been out, has the snow consolidated a bit with the freeze thaw cycles.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge hi, climbing over the weekend, is the snow/ ice still holding? j
In reply to ruaidh: Im looking to get out at the weekend but have no one to go with at the mo. Am happy up to grade III at the mo. E-mail me if your interested.
Andy
Andy
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
anyone been out in craig lloer recently, wat are the conditions like, any avalanche risk at the moment in any of the easier gully lines?
anyone been out in craig lloer recently, wat are the conditions like, any avalanche risk at the moment in any of the easier gully lines?
In reply to johnnorman:
That was Streaky and Dafydd Davis on Couloir - they reported good conditions and also did a previously undocumented line left of Couloir:
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2010/03/04/gentleman%E2%80%99s-groove-iv-5/
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge)
>
> The Trinity gullies were in fine shape yesterday and only 1 other party climbing that we saw. Looked like they were on Couloir, don`t know what that route conditions were like but they were making good progress, otherwise amazingly the Trinity face was deserted!
>
> The Trinity gullies were in fine shape yesterday and only 1 other party climbing that we saw. Looked like they were on Couloir, don`t know what that route conditions were like but they were making good progress, otherwise amazingly the Trinity face was deserted!
That was Streaky and Dafydd Davis on Couloir - they reported good conditions and also did a previously undocumented line left of Couloir:
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2010/03/04/gentleman%E2%80%99s-groove-iv-5/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Went out in to Cwm Cneifion this afternoon and climbed Nameless Gully. The conditions were excellent with good solid placements all the way.
The ice in Cwm Idwal doesn't look particularly good at the moment although the Ramp and Stream might be climbable.
Photo are at http://www.flickr.com/rockcatch/
Went out in to Cwm Cneifion this afternoon and climbed Nameless Gully. The conditions were excellent with good solid placements all the way.
The ice in Cwm Idwal doesn't look particularly good at the moment although the Ramp and Stream might be climbable.
Photo are at http://www.flickr.com/rockcatch/
In reply to jimjimjim:
No worrys mate, we didn't have much choice as my pal lost his glove (which i found right in front of me well after we gave up looking for it)
I looked at the post you made on this thread about central gully but when I looked at your profile pic I wasn't so sure it was you lol
Tried to email you via ukc to ask but you must have email option switched off
Its really bugging me not finishing the route, Going back on the 19th but not sure what the conditions will be like then
No worrys mate, we didn't have much choice as my pal lost his glove (which i found right in front of me well after we gave up looking for it)
I looked at the post you made on this thread about central gully but when I looked at your profile pic I wasn't so sure it was you lol
Tried to email you via ukc to ask but you must have email option switched off
Its really bugging me not finishing the route, Going back on the 19th but not sure what the conditions will be like then
Climbed the ramp last sat and it was ok might be a bit thin now, also lead central route but dont bother, go high Clogwyn Du looked good left hand branch was in
In reply to mark andrews:Ha.. I loaded my pic then saw that it was the wrong one and haven't got round to changing it. Good luck on the 19th. With this winter i wouldn't be supprised if you found bomber neve from the car in may. my stickies can stay in the loft.
In reply to torquil: I have a photo of you i think just getting over the cornice on Ladies gully on monday about 3pm its not very good but will put it on here.To people wanting to climb that route the cornice looked big just wanted to back up what the last person said if the sun warms it up it will take the whole gully out,be safe.
In reply to Andy_B39:
Hi Andy, my mate's decided she wants to come now, but you're more than welcome to join us. We're leaving Bristol early doors on Saturday morning for a 8am walk-in. Could meet you in llanberis, or whereever we decide...
Hi Andy, my mate's decided she wants to come now, but you're more than welcome to join us. We're leaving Bristol early doors on Saturday morning for a 8am walk-in. Could meet you in llanberis, or whereever we decide...
In reply to rocket:
Was there yesterday (thurs) did Broad Gully and had a climb on some great ice low down.
Was in great nick. Very mixed snow conditions, varying from frozen crusty layer on top with graupel underneath, fresh sections of powder, perfect neve.
But no avalanche risk at all (my opinion only of course), I dug a couple of test pits on the gully, all looked solid enough.
Go for it, should be good there for the next few days (if forecasts are to be believed)
I will be posting some pics on blog later http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge)
>
> anyone been out in craig lloer recently, wat are the conditions like, any avalanche risk at the moment in any of the easier gully lines?
>
> anyone been out in craig lloer recently, wat are the conditions like, any avalanche risk at the moment in any of the easier gully lines?
Was there yesterday (thurs) did Broad Gully and had a climb on some great ice low down.
Was in great nick. Very mixed snow conditions, varying from frozen crusty layer on top with graupel underneath, fresh sections of powder, perfect neve.
But no avalanche risk at all (my opinion only of course), I dug a couple of test pits on the gully, all looked solid enough.
Go for it, should be good there for the next few days (if forecasts are to be believed)
I will be posting some pics on blog later http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
In reply to trek:
Andy l'm jealous! Was meant to be at Cwm Lloer last weekend but cancelled due to the forecast blizzards.
Hope to get out again before this great Winter turns into Spring.
Andy l'm jealous! Was meant to be at Cwm Lloer last weekend but cancelled due to the forecast blizzards.
Hope to get out again before this great Winter turns into Spring.
In reply to MattKelk:
Seems like this winter is determined to hang around for as long as possible. Ive never known anything like it in Wales.
Unfortunately my dodgy back is playing up big time, so have had to cancel my jaunt today to Cwm Glas, was hoping to do Sinister Gully or Parsley Fern left hand.
Still, I can't complain as I have had my fair share of winter fun this season, 28 winter days so far, climbing gullies, ice routes, ridges, slabs & anything else that looked interesting in Snowdonia. Can't believe it! My photo collection is bulging!
Seems like this winter is determined to hang around for as long as possible. Ive never known anything like it in Wales.
Unfortunately my dodgy back is playing up big time, so have had to cancel my jaunt today to Cwm Glas, was hoping to do Sinister Gully or Parsley Fern left hand.
Still, I can't complain as I have had my fair share of winter fun this season, 28 winter days so far, climbing gullies, ice routes, ridges, slabs & anything else that looked interesting in Snowdonia. Can't believe it! My photo collection is bulging!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I did Crib Goch yesterday and had perfect conditions and the whole ridge to ourselfs. I have known conditions like it in wales before. fantastic day out. cheers andy
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Thinking of heading over this weekend to try an easy ridge (I'll going on my own and I'm a bit nesh with heights). Is something like the Y Gribin likely to be worth a look?
Thinking of heading over this weekend to try an easy ridge (I'll going on my own and I'm a bit nesh with heights). Is something like the Y Gribin likely to be worth a look?
In reply to andy wa:
What I meant was I have never known there to be these excellent conditions right through a large proportion of the winter.
Must have been decades ago since the last time.
> . I have known conditions like it in wales before.
What I meant was I have never known there to be these excellent conditions right through a large proportion of the winter.
Must have been decades ago since the last time.
In reply to philipb:
did you notice what state the mixed stuff on Clogwyn Du was in ?
Black rock or hoar ?
> Climbed the ramp last sat and it was ok might be a bit thin now, also lead central route but dont bother, go high Clogwyn Du looked good left hand branch was in
did you notice what state the mixed stuff on Clogwyn Du was in ?
Black rock or hoar ?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I'm going up for my first attempt on crampons this weekend. Any suggestions as to a suitable route for a numpty? Was thinking heather terrace/bristly screes/Glyders - type loop...
In reply to mux:
I was rather far away (top of the Ladders), but it looked surprisingly black. I don't think its thawing, just there hasn't been much cloud/ wind for hoar build-up.
> (In reply to philipb)
> [...]
>
> did you notice what state the mixed stuff on Clogwyn Du was in ?
>
> Black rock or hoar ?
> [...]
>
> did you notice what state the mixed stuff on Clogwyn Du was in ?
>
> Black rock or hoar ?
I was rather far away (top of the Ladders), but it looked surprisingly black. I don't think its thawing, just there hasn't been much cloud/ wind for hoar build-up.
In reply to mux:
Weather has been freezing at night, at valley level, all week. Black Ladders were in condition today & Upper Cwm Glas was in excellent nick last night, so I'd say Clogwyn Du is a very good bet. Unless LLAMFF is more of a draw!
Weather has been freezing at night, at valley level, all week. Black Ladders were in condition today & Upper Cwm Glas was in excellent nick last night, so I'd say Clogwyn Du is a very good bet. Unless LLAMFF is more of a draw!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Anyone been out in Cwm Idwal today? just wondering if the Devils Appendix if fully formed? Cheers
Joe
Anyone been out in Cwm Idwal today? just wondering if the Devils Appendix if fully formed? Cheers
Joe
In reply to JFraser123:
Was looking across from pen y ole wen with binoculars yesterday. Devils Appendix did not look fully formed in its lower section.
Was looking across from pen y ole wen with binoculars yesterday. Devils Appendix did not look fully formed in its lower section.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Haven't posted on here for a week, as I was in Scotland last weekend, and have only managed one day in Snowdonia this week which was yesterday (thursday).
Myself & Davey.C (who had been up all night working a 12 hour shift) took all our climbing pro with us intending to see if we could do a route to push our grade a bit, thought it was about time. That was not to be though as Davey was practically asleep when we arrived and my back & good old ankle injury playing up again. So leaving the rope, harnesses & pro in the car we walked up to Cwm Lloer, which is still in great winter nick. Its like another world when you arrive there, as the walk up besides the Afon Lloer stream was a very warm one. T-shirts & sunglasses job, with no snow to be seen. Then you arrive over the crest, to Cwm Lloer completely frozen over and full winter conditions around the cwm!
As you can see from the top photo all winter routes are in climbable condition. Hourglass Gully, Broad Gully, Moongroves, Left Hand Y Gully, Right Hand Y Gully & The Headwall all complete and looking good.
The snow condition was very varied in the cwm itself (and for the first half or 100m ish of Broad Gully). Ranging from icy crust with deep graupel underneath to powder to great neve. Although there was some evidence of avalanche debris around the cwm, including in Broad Gully, I would say it was several days old. In my opinion there was no avalanche risk when we were there.
From about the 800m mark, so halfway ish up Broad Gully snow turned to solid neve. There were some good ice falls on the right of the gully again, in fact much better formed than my previous climbing here a couple of weeks ago. If you were to include the 2 obvious ones in an ascent of Broad Gully (we did not this time) I would say you could class the route as a grade III/IV or maybe a straight IV. (The first ice fall is to the right of the gully start, and was about 6 or 7 metres of good vertical ice. The other one of note is approx 100m up the gully, and is a similar height, and also vertical.) Just doing a direct ascent of the gully line without the ice was a good I/II as the guide book would suggest.
It was yet another stunning day in Snowdonia, with brilliant blue skies, and blazing sun. I had my binoculars with me, and looking across to the Glyders from the summit of Pen Yr Ole Wen, Cwm Cneifion was again looking fantastic, as was the Gribin ridge, and the face og Glyder Fach. Idwal area was bare, although I would imagine there is still some ice to be found. The Devil's Appendix is not formed. Y Garn also looking great, A, B & C gullies and buttress & Banana Gully looking very well covered and enticing.
This info as well as a few photos is now on the blog: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
Haven't posted on here for a week, as I was in Scotland last weekend, and have only managed one day in Snowdonia this week which was yesterday (thursday).
Myself & Davey.C (who had been up all night working a 12 hour shift) took all our climbing pro with us intending to see if we could do a route to push our grade a bit, thought it was about time. That was not to be though as Davey was practically asleep when we arrived and my back & good old ankle injury playing up again. So leaving the rope, harnesses & pro in the car we walked up to Cwm Lloer, which is still in great winter nick. Its like another world when you arrive there, as the walk up besides the Afon Lloer stream was a very warm one. T-shirts & sunglasses job, with no snow to be seen. Then you arrive over the crest, to Cwm Lloer completely frozen over and full winter conditions around the cwm!
As you can see from the top photo all winter routes are in climbable condition. Hourglass Gully, Broad Gully, Moongroves, Left Hand Y Gully, Right Hand Y Gully & The Headwall all complete and looking good.
The snow condition was very varied in the cwm itself (and for the first half or 100m ish of Broad Gully). Ranging from icy crust with deep graupel underneath to powder to great neve. Although there was some evidence of avalanche debris around the cwm, including in Broad Gully, I would say it was several days old. In my opinion there was no avalanche risk when we were there.
From about the 800m mark, so halfway ish up Broad Gully snow turned to solid neve. There were some good ice falls on the right of the gully again, in fact much better formed than my previous climbing here a couple of weeks ago. If you were to include the 2 obvious ones in an ascent of Broad Gully (we did not this time) I would say you could class the route as a grade III/IV or maybe a straight IV. (The first ice fall is to the right of the gully start, and was about 6 or 7 metres of good vertical ice. The other one of note is approx 100m up the gully, and is a similar height, and also vertical.) Just doing a direct ascent of the gully line without the ice was a good I/II as the guide book would suggest.
It was yet another stunning day in Snowdonia, with brilliant blue skies, and blazing sun. I had my binoculars with me, and looking across to the Glyders from the summit of Pen Yr Ole Wen, Cwm Cneifion was again looking fantastic, as was the Gribin ridge, and the face og Glyder Fach. Idwal area was bare, although I would imagine there is still some ice to be found. The Devil's Appendix is not formed. Y Garn also looking great, A, B & C gullies and buttress & Banana Gully looking very well covered and enticing.
This info as well as a few photos is now on the blog: http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
In reply to geoff b:
What route did you do in the Black Ladders? Gallipoli was in dreadful condition and we abseiled off into Central Gully today and did that instead, which was OK. I don't think I'd say the Black Ladders were in condition though certainly not mixed routes. The ice over towards Pyramid Gully looked OK.
What route did you do in the Black Ladders? Gallipoli was in dreadful condition and we abseiled off into Central Gully today and did that instead, which was OK. I don't think I'd say the Black Ladders were in condition though certainly not mixed routes. The ice over towards Pyramid Gully looked OK.
In reply to Andy_B39: Hi Andy, Don't know whether you received my mail,I'm going out on Sun if you are still looking for someone - also happy with III.e-mail me if interested.Carl
In reply to jim jones:
I was safely tucked up at work, but I have it from Mr.Black-Ladders/Parkin that Flanders was done yesterday, which would fit in with your surmising about mixed routes.
All the best,
Geoff
I was safely tucked up at work, but I have it from Mr.Black-Ladders/Parkin that Flanders was done yesterday, which would fit in with your surmising about mixed routes.
All the best,
Geoff
In reply to jim jones:
Was it warmer yesterday Jim? We did Western Gully on thursday and it was in fantastic nick - bomber neve and plenty of ice.
Was it warmer yesterday Jim? We did Western Gully on thursday and it was in fantastic nick - bomber neve and plenty of ice.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Anyone been on Cader in the last few days?
In reply to Adam L: I think it must have been much warmer, I was belaying without gloves on for most of the day. The ice and veg was detaching as we climbed and made it all feel spooky. I was tempted by the Somme but was only carrying four screws, as I really wanted to do Gallipoli. Central Gully was OK as I hadn't done it before, the detour was fun but again the snow was collapsing under me and turf placemements pulling through. The snow in the gully was good. Good to hear you enjoyed Western and found it in good nick.
In reply to trek:
Cheers for the heads up mate, same to rockcatch
Cheers for the heads up mate, same to rockcatch
Has anyone seen anyone on or climbed The Somme, Galipoli or Pyramid on Sunday? Thaks in advance....
Amazing day out today (sunday) with lots of people climbing, snow was in the best condition i've seen it all winter thanks to the freeze/thaw of the last few days.
I seemed to find abandoned gear everywhere I went today, on Sinister Gully, Clogwyn Pearson Arete and Crazy Pinacle Gully, (some of it new and shinny). If any of it's yours and you'd like it back email me.
I seemed to find abandoned gear everywhere I went today, on Sinister Gully, Clogwyn Pearson Arete and Crazy Pinacle Gully, (some of it new and shinny). If any of it's yours and you'd like it back email me.
In reply to spindrift:
Did Pyramid Gully today - fantastic. The hard frost of last night turned the wet snow that people have been reporting from Saturday to gorgeous névé. Absolutely top day!
First ice pitch is steep but short, second fat and fun. Just fantastic...
Did Pyramid Gully today - fantastic. The hard frost of last night turned the wet snow that people have been reporting from Saturday to gorgeous névé. Absolutely top day!
First ice pitch is steep but short, second fat and fun. Just fantastic...
In reply to AndyWigley:
Oh, and I forgot to mention. Went looking for a quickdraw we dropped afterwards and found two! Mine and apparently the party who followed us dropped one too (butterfingers clearly a widespread problem today).
If you dropped a qd on Pyramid today, contact me with a plausible description and I'll return it.
Oh, and I forgot to mention. Went looking for a quickdraw we dropped afterwards and found two! Mine and apparently the party who followed us dropped one too (butterfingers clearly a widespread problem today).
If you dropped a qd on Pyramid today, contact me with a plausible description and I'll return it.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: What a great weekend!!!!!!!!!!!
Saturday soloed Broad and variations on Hourglass in Cwm Lloer having left the road at 7.30am. Upper sections were pretty delectable. Today I made another ridiculously early start(for me) from Pen y Pass and went up to Left hand Trinity. I have rarely enjoyed such fabulous conditions ( in Wales at least) and it was a joy to pop out at the summit itself before 10.00 am. (It was a bit unnerving to meet a chap in skimpy shorts)On round to Crib Goch where (nearly)everyone had huge smiles and were enjoying vintage conditions and great views. Ireland was clearly visible from Snowdon summit.It was really uplifting to chat to folk on the ridge who were enjoying themselves so much.
Saturday soloed Broad and variations on Hourglass in Cwm Lloer having left the road at 7.30am. Upper sections were pretty delectable. Today I made another ridiculously early start(for me) from Pen y Pass and went up to Left hand Trinity. I have rarely enjoyed such fabulous conditions ( in Wales at least) and it was a joy to pop out at the summit itself before 10.00 am. (It was a bit unnerving to meet a chap in skimpy shorts)On round to Crib Goch where (nearly)everyone had huge smiles and were enjoying vintage conditions and great views. Ireland was clearly visible from Snowdon summit.It was really uplifting to chat to folk on the ridge who were enjoying themselves so much.
In reply to earlsdonhammer: Yeah, I agree - today was superb. Went up B Gully on Y Garn, superb neve, clear views of Ireland from top of Y garn.
If anyone was climbing A Gully at about 9.00am, I've got a couple of photos of you topping out. Let me know your email address and I'll send them on.
If anyone was climbing A Gully at about 9.00am, I've got a couple of photos of you topping out. Let me know your email address and I'll send them on.
In reply to earlsdonhammer: Did Pillar Chimney via the evil thrutch on Saturday and I am in so much pain from it even now
In reply to Tom Hutton: Cader Idris was superbly good today. There's some photos on my blog http://huwgilbert.blogspot.com
In reply to MattG:
Yep, that thrutch on Pillar Chimney is horrid. Did it today and have the bruised knees to show. Too narrow to be much of a chimney. But probably hard to fall out of because it is so tight. Was amazed my mate followed it with his rucsac on.
Also did the Clogwyn LH with the Direct Finish (a fine but tricky finishing pitch). Ice on the left wall of the groove was cosmetic, so climbed up the back of the groove and out round the umbrella. Felt like proper V.
Finished off with Clogwyn RH. Another interesting ice umbrella at top. (Couldn't help using knee again to step over.)
And then a lovely icefall 20m right again. Can't find this described anywhere, but it's a fine line. A touch harder than Clogwyn RH (tech 4) for its upper half after Grade 1 approach gully. Anyone know what it's called?
Yep, that thrutch on Pillar Chimney is horrid. Did it today and have the bruised knees to show. Too narrow to be much of a chimney. But probably hard to fall out of because it is so tight. Was amazed my mate followed it with his rucsac on.
Also did the Clogwyn LH with the Direct Finish (a fine but tricky finishing pitch). Ice on the left wall of the groove was cosmetic, so climbed up the back of the groove and out round the umbrella. Felt like proper V.
Finished off with Clogwyn RH. Another interesting ice umbrella at top. (Couldn't help using knee again to step over.)
And then a lovely icefall 20m right again. Can't find this described anywhere, but it's a fine line. A touch harder than Clogwyn RH (tech 4) for its upper half after Grade 1 approach gully. Anyone know what it's called?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Just got back from a superb weekend on the ice. Western Gully on the Ladders on Saturday, direct version with the right hand finish, but taking mixed groove to left of ice line. Snow a bit soft but superb route. Not sure about the VI 7 grade. We thought V 6? Today took an ice virgin up Right Hand Gully Direct on Clogwyn DDu, superb everything!
As Phil says, Western Gully was mostly reasonably well frozen on Saturday despite 4.5 degrees at 8am in Nant Peris, so never say never! The snow on the descent path was slushy as we walked off just after dark but had frozen nicely by Sunday. Pyramid Gully in good nick as stated above, shame it's so chopped up. Generally, some lines are still looking very snowy and the top third of the cliff is well rimed throughout, while other lines are pretty bare, but on the whole still plenty to go at on the mixed stuff.
Tried the approach from Ogwen, which took ages (though that did include a deviation via Left Hand Y Branch in Cwm Lloer - at 10.30am the neve was softening up in the sun but was still mostly ok in the shade of the gully). On the other hand, took only an hour and 15 mins to get back to the road from the top (admittedly in daylight), so if you've got two cars it's well worth walking in from Gerlan and walking off into Ogwen.
Getting close to 1,000 posts! And at almost 65,000 views (that's 65,000 different people I think), this surely must be the most popular UKC thread ever - a reflection of the fantastic season. Thanks to everyone for their contributions and keep it coming. The question is whether conditions will hold out for another week. I think basically it needs to stay below freezing overnight - a bit of thawing in the afternoons should be ok, as suggested by Saturday's conditions on the Ladders. Looks good for the next few days at least, so hopefully there will still be stuff to do next weekend!
Tried the approach from Ogwen, which took ages (though that did include a deviation via Left Hand Y Branch in Cwm Lloer - at 10.30am the neve was softening up in the sun but was still mostly ok in the shade of the gully). On the other hand, took only an hour and 15 mins to get back to the road from the top (admittedly in daylight), so if you've got two cars it's well worth walking in from Gerlan and walking off into Ogwen.
Getting close to 1,000 posts! And at almost 65,000 views (that's 65,000 different people I think), this surely must be the most popular UKC thread ever - a reflection of the fantastic season. Thanks to everyone for their contributions and keep it coming. The question is whether conditions will hold out for another week. I think basically it needs to stay below freezing overnight - a bit of thawing in the afternoons should be ok, as suggested by Saturday's conditions on the Ladders. Looks good for the next few days at least, so hopefully there will still be stuff to do next weekend!
In reply to earlsdonhammer:
I did central trinity about 20 mins ahead of you and was first on the face I think - topped out around 9.40. I was amazedoro have the whole area Inc the summit to myself on such a day, really amazing day out. I went back via Llewd as never done it before
I did central trinity about 20 mins ahead of you and was first on the face I think - topped out around 9.40. I was amazedoro have the whole area Inc the summit to myself on such a day, really amazing day out. I went back via Llewd as never done it before
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: B and Banana Gullies (Y Garn) weren't in great nick on Saturday but yesterday on Left Hand Trinity was awesome apart from some softness near the top...what a day!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: It's been below zero over night again, and another beautiful day in Snowdonia...
Anyway; a question. Has anyone done (or know of) any winter routes in Cwm Marchlyn or on the unnamed northern cwm of Carnedd y Filiast? Anything in Cwm Marchlyn would be too hard for me, but there are some obvious easy-looking gullies on Carnedd y Filiast.
Anyway; a question. Has anyone done (or know of) any winter routes in Cwm Marchlyn or on the unnamed northern cwm of Carnedd y Filiast? Anything in Cwm Marchlyn would be too hard for me, but there are some obvious easy-looking gullies on Carnedd y Filiast.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
With the increased temperatures do you think all the snow and ice will have gone by next weekend. What are peoples views?
With the increased temperatures do you think all the snow and ice will have gone by next weekend. What are peoples views?
In reply to MattKelk: I reckon it'll hang about. The freezing level is reported to be 800m today, and 400-700m Wednesday and Thursday. Fingers crossed anyway.
In reply to Mike Peacock:
Yep, should hang around in Cneifion/Garnedd etc for a few more days if the forecast is right. Probably worth getting an early start for the best conds though (I was up in Cwm Cneifion by 8.30 this morning and the neve was absolutely perfect throughout). Still tons of snow high up.
Yep, should hang around in Cneifion/Garnedd etc for a few more days if the forecast is right. Probably worth getting an early start for the best conds though (I was up in Cwm Cneifion by 8.30 this morning and the neve was absolutely perfect throughout). Still tons of snow high up.
In reply to Removed Usersimongwyn: Yeah Cnefion is well banked out on all the easier lines like Tower Gully, Tower Slabs, Hidden Gully etc. Also the Clogwyn gullies are ok and Pillar Chimney was in condition on Saturday with the last pitch of 4 being well iced at the moment (not direct, RH variation)
In reply to jandyd05: Full marks for getting going even earlier than me. I was on the top for 10.00. left hand is brilliant in that you emerge right bang in front of the trig point. A pity I was so early that there weren't loads of onlookers to see me emerge ...albeit in a sweaty state!
In reply to Nicholas Livesey: You were obviously a bit later than me on LHT...at 9.30 - 10.00 the top was really solid. In fact, it was great as that was the bit without big bucket steps. I guess that being a more open slope and out of the lower gulley gloom it gets a bit more sun.
In reply to Misha:
Also did Western Gulley on Black Ladders on Saturday. Good ice on the Direct pitch out of the cave. Also did Pyramid Gulley on Sunday after the cold night (-5 whilst driving to Bethesda). Conditions could be good for a while.
Dave Smith
Also did Western Gulley on Black Ladders on Saturday. Good ice on the Direct pitch out of the cave. Also did Pyramid Gulley on Sunday after the cold night (-5 whilst driving to Bethesda). Conditions could be good for a while.
Dave Smith
In reply to MattKelk:
Nope. Will still be places to play on the weekend for sure.
Make your plans.... Enjoy!
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge)
>
> With the increased temperatures do you think all the snow and ice will have gone by next weekend. What are peoples views?
>
> With the increased temperatures do you think all the snow and ice will have gone by next weekend. What are peoples views?
Nope. Will still be places to play on the weekend for sure.
Make your plans.... Enjoy!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Ref. Ysgolion Duon/Black Ladders on Sunday,
The answer is "Yes, yes & yes again!" There were 10 people on Pyramid
Gully!!! Only 7 on Left Hand Ice Fall Gully. A party on Western Gully (see
blog). A team on Gallipoli. The Somme was climbed on very thin ice & said
to be almost completely protectionless (1 tied off shortee ice screw & a
bull-dog in 45m I think!) I think Polar Bear was climbed too but I can't
remember!
What's more the ice isn't going anywhere soon either.
All the best
geoffb
Ref. Ysgolion Duon/Black Ladders on Sunday,
The answer is "Yes, yes & yes again!" There were 10 people on Pyramid
Gully!!! Only 7 on Left Hand Ice Fall Gully. A party on Western Gully (see
blog). A team on Gallipoli. The Somme was climbed on very thin ice & said
to be almost completely protectionless (1 tied off shortee ice screw & a
bull-dog in 45m I think!) I think Polar Bear was climbed too but I can't
remember!
What's more the ice isn't going anywhere soon either.
All the best
geoffb
In reply to geoff b: Thanks Geoff. We did Gallipoli today. Great nic and good route.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Went around the Snowdon Horseshoe and Central Trinity today. The snow conditions were very good, and the climb was quite straight forward with lots of consolidated footprints. The Horseshoe had a good snow slope between the North and East ridges of Crib Goch.
Went around the Snowdon Horseshoe and Central Trinity today. The snow conditions were very good, and the climb was quite straight forward with lots of consolidated footprints. The Horseshoe had a good snow slope between the North and East ridges of Crib Goch.
In reply to DAVID SMITH:
We must have been unwittingly following you round!
We must have been unwittingly following you round!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
A request from Baggy. The locals are all getting fed up of stupid parking for the black ladders. The farmers keep getting blocked in etc.
The police put tickets on cars today and to be fair cannot blame them. Some of the parking is silly.
If this carries on then things will get out of hand.
Be responsible or go elsewhere
Thanks
Baggy
A request from Baggy. The locals are all getting fed up of stupid parking for the black ladders. The farmers keep getting blocked in etc.
The police put tickets on cars today and to be fair cannot blame them. Some of the parking is silly.
If this carries on then things will get out of hand.
Be responsible or go elsewhere
Thanks
Baggy
In reply to GDavies:
The irony is that with all these posts, the ladders will be more popular than ever, meaning there will be even less places to park. We were there on Sunday at 7am and there was not one space by the start of the lane leading down to the farm.
The police were issuing advisories only on Sunday. A PC Groom explained to me that the farmer at the bottom has had his tractor trapped in the shed for the last three days because the turning circle by the bridge had cars on it. He also said that there were incidents in the past where lane constriction led to damage to cars as farm vehicles tried to edge past/around. Read into that what you will.
So, I'd echo the call, if you don't want to a) piss off the locals and sully the reputation of climbers, b) get a ticket, or b) get your car damaged.... dont park in the lane. (And if you want to be sure of a space by the junction at the top of the lane, get up early!junction at the a parking)
The irony is that with all these posts, the ladders will be more popular than ever, meaning there will be even less places to park. We were there on Sunday at 7am and there was not one space by the start of the lane leading down to the farm.
The police were issuing advisories only on Sunday. A PC Groom explained to me that the farmer at the bottom has had his tractor trapped in the shed for the last three days because the turning circle by the bridge had cars on it. He also said that there were incidents in the past where lane constriction led to damage to cars as farm vehicles tried to edge past/around. Read into that what you will.
So, I'd echo the call, if you don't want to a) piss off the locals and sully the reputation of climbers, b) get a ticket, or b) get your car damaged.... dont park in the lane. (And if you want to be sure of a space by the junction at the top of the lane, get up early!junction at the a parking)
In reply to ruaidh:
btw, we did icefall gully on Sunday (third of at least four teams) in the best nick and weather I've ever seen in the ladders. The key I think is a good freeze the night before and an early start.
btw, we did icefall gully on Sunday (third of at least four teams) in the best nick and weather I've ever seen in the ladders. The key I think is a good freeze the night before and an early start.
I agree to the early start. I was at the bottom of Great Gully, Snowdon at 7-30 and the snow was solid neve 99% of the time. Yes I also checked snowdon weather & met check both showed favourable results. Plus I spent half an hour in solitude no people & no sea gulls at the top, stunning views.
Russell
Russell
Has anybody been up into Cwm Lloer in the last few days? What are the snow / ice conditions like in Broad gully and Y-Shaped gully? Was up there a fortnight ago and Y shaped gully caught my eye. Will it go with one ice axe?
Cheers,
Pete.
Cheers,
Pete.
In reply to GDavies:
I was shocked on Sunday to see someone had actually parked under a pasing place sign (the last one by the bridge). Perhaps the best answer is to adopt the American idea of creating parking and toilet facilities near the start. Plenty of space for 15 - 20 cars is available, given the popularity of this area in recent Winters it would be an ideal opportunity to create a "Trailhead". Most of the local community is obviously keen to welcome climbers and walkers, as evidenced by the new Caban Gerlan Bunkhouse. A case for the BMC perhaps? It's been done at plenty of other places where parking was fast becoming a problem.
I was shocked on Sunday to see someone had actually parked under a pasing place sign (the last one by the bridge). Perhaps the best answer is to adopt the American idea of creating parking and toilet facilities near the start. Plenty of space for 15 - 20 cars is available, given the popularity of this area in recent Winters it would be an ideal opportunity to create a "Trailhead". Most of the local community is obviously keen to welcome climbers and walkers, as evidenced by the new Caban Gerlan Bunkhouse. A case for the BMC perhaps? It's been done at plenty of other places where parking was fast becoming a problem.
In reply to cadmonkeysmith: Broad was fine on Saturday. I thought Y looked thin but didn't venture close.
In reply to ruaidh:
We parked at the junction at the top of the lane on Saturday (assume it's the one you mean, about three spaces, we were in between the two branches) and got an 'advisory' for parking within 10 metres of a junction and allegedly obstructing a tractor with a trailer (must have been a large one as there seemed to be plenty of space), so won't be doing that again. I guess parking down in the village could cause problems of its own but at least there is more space there. Can't be long to walk over if you first ferry the sacks up to the junction.
We parked at the junction at the top of the lane on Saturday (assume it's the one you mean, about three spaces, we were in between the two branches) and got an 'advisory' for parking within 10 metres of a junction and allegedly obstructing a tractor with a trailer (must have been a large one as there seemed to be plenty of space), so won't be doing that again. I guess parking down in the village could cause problems of its own but at least there is more space there. Can't be long to walk over if you first ferry the sacks up to the junction.
Perhaps the increased awareness of Ysgolion Duon this winter will raise its profile, along with nearby Llech Ddu as a summer crag too. Plenty of classic, if somewhat esoteric gems, so I'm led to believe! Flanders, at HVS for example.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: did great gully and cave gulley up at snowdon. great snow conditions. sunny day. Ice is getting thin on the left wall on cave gully but its still good. Cornices are forming above the trinity routes and some of the other gullies. cave didn't have one.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
*risks backlash*
There is parking in Bethesda, but I presume people would object to walking the extra distance.
*risks backlash*
There is parking in Bethesda, but I presume people would object to walking the extra distance.
In reply to Mike Peacock: Rather contraversial here, but I don't know why the NPA don't support a car park. Too much like hard work..
The fact is a car park would encourage people into that side of the Carneddau, encourage people into Bethesda/Gerlan, and reduce the pressure on the other honey pot areas. As it is Capel, Ogwen Cottage and Pen Y Gwyrd/Pen Y Pass currently get hammered.
Even in Bethesda parking isn't great, not compared to most other places. I don't know why a loca farmer hasn't worked this out and concoursed a field, income from sheep up there must be pitiful.
There seems to be the usual UK response of being reactive and going through the old fine and regulate response rather than proactively encouraging people to other areas.
The fact is a car park would encourage people into that side of the Carneddau, encourage people into Bethesda/Gerlan, and reduce the pressure on the other honey pot areas. As it is Capel, Ogwen Cottage and Pen Y Gwyrd/Pen Y Pass currently get hammered.
Even in Bethesda parking isn't great, not compared to most other places. I don't know why a loca farmer hasn't worked this out and concoursed a field, income from sheep up there must be pitiful.
There seems to be the usual UK response of being reactive and going through the old fine and regulate response rather than proactively encouraging people to other areas.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Looking to do Hourglass Gully in Cwn Lloer on Saturday, will it still be in condition? Anyone been there in the last few days. Has the snow consolidated now?
Looking to do Hourglass Gully in Cwn Lloer on Saturday, will it still be in condition? Anyone been there in the last few days. Has the snow consolidated now?
In reply to IainRUK: A car park would perhaps be a solution. It might also help the economy of Bethesda, and allow it to capitalise on the national park.
Another solution for those not wishing to walk from Bethesda to Gerlan; the first bus is 7am...
Another solution for those not wishing to walk from Bethesda to Gerlan; the first bus is 7am...
In reply to IainRUK:
... then everyone could have a big winge on here everytime the prices went up... I'm always slightly uncomfortable leaving the car in Bethesda having walked out from a back packing trip to signs of 'f*ck of english' scrawled in red paint across fences etc...
> (In reply to Mike Peacock) Rather contraversial here, but I don't know why the NPA don't support a car park. Too much like hard work..
... then everyone could have a big winge on here everytime the prices went up... I'm always slightly uncomfortable leaving the car in Bethesda having walked out from a back packing trip to signs of 'f*ck of english' scrawled in red paint across fences etc...
In reply to IainRUK:
how about walking in from the A5? The descent into the ladders is on good snow and it's all downhill after the route. Avoids blocking the farmers access and the filthy looks from the locals when parking legally.
how about walking in from the A5? The descent into the ladders is on good snow and it's all downhill after the route. Avoids blocking the farmers access and the filthy looks from the locals when parking legally.
In reply to MattKelk:
Mike (Peacock), Andy (Trek) have you been out in this area in the last few days?
> (In reply to Charlie Burbridge)
>
> Looking to do Hourglass Gully in Cwn Lloer on Saturday, will it still be in condition? Anyone been there in the last few days. Has the snow consolidated now?
>
> Looking to do Hourglass Gully in Cwn Lloer on Saturday, will it still be in condition? Anyone been there in the last few days. Has the snow consolidated now?
Mike (Peacock), Andy (Trek) have you been out in this area in the last few days?
In reply to nikinko:I lived in Gerlan for a couple of years and even though I am a keen climber both summer and winter sometimes climbers taking up 'our' spaces p*ssed me off so you can imagine what the non climbing locals think. Basically there is a parking problem up there for residents never mind climbers, as for the anti English thing often the minority voice is the loudest, I'm not surprised folk get a bit miffed when they can't find a space near their house after coming back from work, but I think this is aimed at climbers as opposed to the 'English'.
One solution is to car share and park furthest away as possible, the ferrying people and gear up and parking in town is a great idea for weekends, especially if you park on the road by 'The Douglas Arms', or even better outside the factory further along the A5, the bus idea is also great, maybe we could have a separate thread with bus times, destinations, stops, etc for the Ladders and similar destinations with parking issues, kind of like an unofficial park and ride scheme. I am as guilty as anyone but we obviously all need to put in that extra effort.
HOWEVER, it is not just winter climbers who are to blame, there are many walkers who also park up there, maybe in greater numbers than us so perhaps some BMC intervention to get the message across is required? Over to you Elfyn..!
One solution is to car share and park furthest away as possible, the ferrying people and gear up and parking in town is a great idea for weekends, especially if you park on the road by 'The Douglas Arms', or even better outside the factory further along the A5, the bus idea is also great, maybe we could have a separate thread with bus times, destinations, stops, etc for the Ladders and similar destinations with parking issues, kind of like an unofficial park and ride scheme. I am as guilty as anyone but we obviously all need to put in that extra effort.
HOWEVER, it is not just winter climbers who are to blame, there are many walkers who also park up there, maybe in greater numbers than us so perhaps some BMC intervention to get the message across is required? Over to you Elfyn..!
In reply to MattKelk: We did Hourglass gully back on Feb 28th and there was plenty of snow. A bit soft at the bottom but nice solid neve towards the top and no cornice. However I guess a lot of weather has happened since then. If you do do it though have an ace time!
Cheers,
Pete.
Cheers,
Pete.
In reply to MattKelk: I've been out today in Cwm Lloer. Did Equinox for a mate's first route. Snow was firm and solid but was becoming a bit mushy on the summit ridges. I reckon Hourglass will still be good, but an early start before the sun really warms things up might be an idea.
Chatted to a couple who did The Headwall and enjoyed it. Also bumped into a couple topping out on Icefall Gully. Quite sunny low down, but Llewelyn remained wreathed in cloud. If they read this, another thanks to the guys from Conwy who took us down to Bethesda, the bus times are still crap!
Photos soon...
Chatted to a couple who did The Headwall and enjoyed it. Also bumped into a couple topping out on Icefall Gully. Quite sunny low down, but Llewelyn remained wreathed in cloud. If they read this, another thanks to the guys from Conwy who took us down to Bethesda, the bus times are still crap!
Photos soon...
In reply to chummer:
I'm aware of the issues here - there is no easy or quick answer, and even if a solution is found, it's proabbly too late for this winter. I hope to discuss with the local council, National Park authority, Welsh Water (who own some land up there)and others, to get some options here for next year.
regards
Elfyn Jones
Acess & Conservation Officer Wales
I'm aware of the issues here - there is no easy or quick answer, and even if a solution is found, it's proabbly too late for this winter. I hope to discuss with the local council, National Park authority, Welsh Water (who own some land up there)and others, to get some options here for next year.
regards
Elfyn Jones
Acess & Conservation Officer Wales
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Photos from today:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623592731008/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623592731008/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
I was up on Y Garn today. Firstly climbed slabs to the left of A Gully. Some good ice & mixed sections. Grade II/III at a push. Then dropped down & did B Gully. Good snow conditions all the way, a very easy I/II I thought. No cornice at top to speak of. Descended Banana Gully, bit of a cornice there, snow conds much poorer in Banana Gully. Sugary collapsing snow. I suppose it gets more sun. Will put pics plus topo ive just done on the blog in next 15 mins http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
I was up on Y Garn today. Firstly climbed slabs to the left of A Gully. Some good ice & mixed sections. Grade II/III at a push. Then dropped down & did B Gully. Good snow conditions all the way, a very easy I/II I thought. No cornice at top to speak of. Descended Banana Gully, bit of a cornice there, snow conds much poorer in Banana Gully. Sugary collapsing snow. I suppose it gets more sun. Will put pics plus topo ive just done on the blog in next 15 mins http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
Who was on C Gully today at about 1pm? What was the snow like in there?
In reply to trek: did you see if climbs in Cwm Cywion were also still in ?
In reply to trek:
The snow was ok in C gully, but a little pit patchy in places.
I found a purple buffalo glove Today. If you want it back let me know where to send it.
The snow was ok in C gully, but a little pit patchy in places.
I found a purple buffalo glove Today. If you want it back let me know where to send it.
In reply to Mike Peacock:
Where is Equinox Mike? It doesn't appear in the guide book. Did you dig any pits while you were out, what's the avalanche risk like aside from the rising temps?
Where is Equinox Mike? It doesn't appear in the guide book. Did you dig any pits while you were out, what's the avalanche risk like aside from the rising temps?
In reply to Neil Anderson:
I didnt sorry no.
> (In reply to trek) did you see if climbs in Cwm Cywion were also still in ?
I didnt sorry no.
In reply to Elfyn - A+C Officer For Wales: talk to a farmer about opening up a field for parking. I'm sure they would be glad of the income aswell as the improved access along the road. Last time i went there people had stopped over night in their cars we go there at 6am nowhere to park. so walked up from near the spar. v long day.
In reply to trek:
Was up on Trinity face yesterday for some excellent climbing in good nick. The ice was fantastically plastic making it feel like cheating and End Gully is in grade I condition for a quick descent. Did RH Trinity, Ladies Gully and Cave Gully. Only saw 2 other climbers, off in the distance, the whole day.
Was up on Trinity face yesterday for some excellent climbing in good nick. The ice was fantastically plastic making it feel like cheating and End Gully is in grade I condition for a quick descent. Did RH Trinity, Ladies Gully and Cave Gully. Only saw 2 other climbers, off in the distance, the whole day.
In reply to George Ormerod:
topo of trinity face here; http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2579
click on it to make it bigger, that's nice
Mick
> (In reply to trek)
>
> Was up on Trinity face yesterday for some excellent climbing in good nick.
>
> Was up on Trinity face yesterday for some excellent climbing in good nick.
topo of trinity face here; http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2579
click on it to make it bigger, that's nice
Mick
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Nice. There's a lot more snow, especially lower down, than in that photo at the moment. But it's all nice and solid.
Nice. There's a lot more snow, especially lower down, than in that photo at the moment. But it's all nice and solid.
In reply to Gfunk:
You swine! I was gonna try and get it. Stayed up last night til it was on 998!
Great though isn't it? 1000 posts & still rising! What a truly great winter we have had here in Wales.
You swine! I was gonna try and get it. Stayed up last night til it was on 998!
Great though isn't it? 1000 posts & still rising! What a truly great winter we have had here in Wales.
In reply to MattKelk: It's here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=132077
It's far far too short, and very easy, but you could do Hourglass then come back down and do Equinox or something.
Didn't bother examining the snow pack as we figured our route would be fairly safe, so can't comment what the gullies will be like.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=132077
It's far far too short, and very easy, but you could do Hourglass then come back down and do Equinox or something.
Didn't bother examining the snow pack as we figured our route would be fairly safe, so can't comment what the gullies will be like.
In reply to Mike Peacock: Though incidentally I presume whoever named it got confused. Surely it should be Solstice?
In reply to Mike Peacock:
Dunno Mike, its the spring Equinox in 9 days time mate, and we might still be doing winter routes then (fingers crossed)
Dunno Mike, its the spring Equinox in 9 days time mate, and we might still be doing winter routes then (fingers crossed)
No wonder this thread has passed 1,000 posts and an amazing number of views.
I'm a mere walker, old and overweight and only found what a mountain was 6 years ago at the age of 56!
But am I glad I was pointed to this thread a while ago. Wonderful info that has allowed me to plan my trips to Snowdonia. Knowing that I could rely on enjoying superb winter conditions. Safely as far as I can as a solo walker, always with full winter gear regularly in use.
So thank you Charles for this thread. And thanks to those who have constantly updated it.
I'll be looking out for it again next winter.................unless more snow falls after I've got my strength back in week or so time............!
I'm a mere walker, old and overweight and only found what a mountain was 6 years ago at the age of 56!
But am I glad I was pointed to this thread a while ago. Wonderful info that has allowed me to plan my trips to Snowdonia. Knowing that I could rely on enjoying superb winter conditions. Safely as far as I can as a solo walker, always with full winter gear regularly in use.
So thank you Charles for this thread. And thanks to those who have constantly updated it.
I'll be looking out for it again next winter.................unless more snow falls after I've got my strength back in week or so time............!
In reply to Mike Peacock:
is that to the right of hourglass or broad?
is that to the right of hourglass or broad?
In reply to Bryan Benn:
yeah - great thread - sound comments - has really helped this winter. same goes for the overwhelming majority of folks met on the hill - knowledgeable and open and warm spirited... gonna cry now...
yeah - great thread - sound comments - has really helped this winter. same goes for the overwhelming majority of folks met on the hill - knowledgeable and open and warm spirited... gonna cry now...
In reply to Bryan Benn: Your never too old to enjoy the outdoors in its various guises mate.
Keep at it!!
Keep at it!!
In reply to Mike Peacock:
Thanks Mike,
From that picture it looks like little risk of snow sliding off, was that the assessment you made.
Sorry for all the questions just being extra cautious.
Thanks Mike,
From that picture it looks like little risk of snow sliding off, was that the assessment you made.
Sorry for all the questions just being extra cautious.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: ok so the million dollar Q - where are we all going this weekend? is it still going to be in nick to do any ice/mixed on the ladders or cloggy or is it snow gullies at dawn??
great thread - only 8 months before next years can start!
great thread - only 8 months before next years can start!
In reply to Dr.S at work: It's to the left of Hourglass.
Matt - we just decided there was little risk of avalanche on the route. It's short with lots of 'islands' of safety. It also looked possible to keep heading straight up onto harder ground, rather than traverse back left the easy way but my mate didn't fancy it.
There was evidence of recent ascents of Hourglass and Broad Gully, but I'm not sure when they were last climbed.
Matt - we just decided there was little risk of avalanche on the route. It's short with lots of 'islands' of safety. It also looked possible to keep heading straight up onto harder ground, rather than traverse back left the easy way but my mate didn't fancy it.
There was evidence of recent ascents of Hourglass and Broad Gully, but I'm not sure when they were last climbed.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Just back from an afternoon going up B Gully on Y Garn. Snow conditions were still very good, although there was a short rock step with no real snow on it.
Just back from an afternoon going up B Gully on Y Garn. Snow conditions were still very good, although there was a short rock step with no real snow on it.
In reply to rockcatch:
Good good, glad snow is still nice up there. Going to head up & do C Gully & one of the buttresses tomorrow myself.
Good good, glad snow is still nice up there. Going to head up & do C Gully & one of the buttresses tomorrow myself.
In reply to trek: Just got back from doing routes in both Cwm on Y garn. Wonderful blue skies, and good snow. Will put up fuller report and pics shortly - but if you can wangle a day off tomorrow go for it!
C gully recommend.
C gully recommend.
"Walked" up Parsley Fern today. Bucket steps, super snow all the way up (no ice in the centre gully), and a nice person had chopped through the cornice allowing no doubt thousands to pass through.
Central Trinty was climbed by at least two parties, and one party had climbed Ladies Gully.
The trainers brigade were slipping down where the zig zags usually are. We had to help two of them down...it was so dangerous for them! Crampons and an axe are a must on Snowdon at present.The snow at the back of the cwm there is in full sun and is getting soft and mushy however. It is rock hard in the shade in areas like Upper Cwm Glas.
Another fantastic day with brilliant weather and superb views. Long may this winter continue!
Central Trinty was climbed by at least two parties, and one party had climbed Ladies Gully.
The trainers brigade were slipping down where the zig zags usually are. We had to help two of them down...it was so dangerous for them! Crampons and an axe are a must on Snowdon at present.The snow at the back of the cwm there is in full sun and is getting soft and mushy however. It is rock hard in the shade in areas like Upper Cwm Glas.
Another fantastic day with brilliant weather and superb views. Long may this winter continue!
Forgot to add: Huge cornices above the Trinty Face and Upper Cwm Glas. They are fine to get around and appear stable at present, but will drop at some point...take care.
In reply to Neil Anderson:
Im going Neil dont you worry! Really just a toss up between Y Garn or Cwm Glas (sinister gully is looking appealing)
Im going Neil dont you worry! Really just a toss up between Y Garn or Cwm Glas (sinister gully is looking appealing)
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Y Garn today - Cwm Clyd - A,B,C all in condition as well as lots of 'unexplored ground' right of A Gully. Banana also ok - but very slushy snow by 2pm and will need a solid refreeze.
Recommend C gully, which IMHO should get 2 ** not 1 * for its atmosphere. The step at mid height is getting lean but will go as a mixed route.
Extensive snow cover over 700m - predominately hard neve after overnight freeze - softening as day progressed very alpinesque. Turf well frozen in all the gullies, some water ice still around.
Also went into Cwm Cywion, and here the guide book is right - not alot to embrace accept the solitude. Plenty of snow high up but no 1 - 4 gullies lean (top of no 4 rock pitch almost)and lower gullies chicken/banana split absent. although a far amount of ice on the rcok band for practice? Higher gullies all in, of which Spur Gully the best ( and not ascending recently ? until today?)
I will stick a few pics up, but bascially loads to do all over the glyders, and on snowdon massif by the looks.
Blue skies today with early frost. let's hope this High pressure continues to hold
Recommend C gully, which IMHO should get 2 ** not 1 * for its atmosphere. The step at mid height is getting lean but will go as a mixed route.
Extensive snow cover over 700m - predominately hard neve after overnight freeze - softening as day progressed very alpinesque. Turf well frozen in all the gullies, some water ice still around.
Also went into Cwm Cywion, and here the guide book is right - not alot to embrace accept the solitude. Plenty of snow high up but no 1 - 4 gullies lean (top of no 4 rock pitch almost)and lower gullies chicken/banana split absent. although a far amount of ice on the rcok band for practice? Higher gullies all in, of which Spur Gully the best ( and not ascending recently ? until today?)
I will stick a few pics up, but bascially loads to do all over the glyders, and on snowdon massif by the looks.
Blue skies today with early frost. let's hope this High pressure continues to hold
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
I lost an orange hat on the way up to the ladders yesterday, I'd be grateful if I could get it back - cheers
I lost an orange hat on the way up to the ladders yesterday, I'd be grateful if I could get it back - cheers
In reply to getagrip: what were the ladders like yesterday - I'll look for the hat tomorrow!
In reply to trek: Did Sinister gully yesterday, awesome condition. Have fun.
In reply to xgriffin: ladders were porn... but freezing levels going up slowly...
In reply to The Rorster: is that porn as in brilliant or poor as in poor!!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Anyone know where l can hire boots, crampons and ice axe from, other then Plas Y Brenin.
Need some for my mate, PYB weren't sure whether they would have any, but to just turn up.
Don't want to travel for an hour and three quarters to find we can't climb.
Anyone know where l can hire boots, crampons and ice axe from, other then Plas Y Brenin.
Need some for my mate, PYB weren't sure whether they would have any, but to just turn up.
Don't want to travel for an hour and three quarters to find we can't climb.
In reply to MattKelk:
Damp, cloudy and quite a bit warmer (8C) this morning in Llanberis. No frost last night either, at least down low.
Chris
Damp, cloudy and quite a bit warmer (8C) this morning in Llanberis. No frost last night either, at least down low.
Chris
In reply to xgriffin: Conditions weren't too bad, ice is starting to crust a bit but snow steps were solid enough for the start and finish. Pyramid area looked well iced.
In reply to getagrip: Anyone been up the ladders today?
In reply to xgriffin: brilliant - did the somme, good ice, thin but thats to be expected. Western Gully got done at least once, eastern and central good. turf bomber... utter porn
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Have just come down from Upper Cwm Glas & it's not good; beginning to thaw everywhere. Crux of Sinister has gone & the ice & the snow slopes are turning slushy & insecure. A good freeze tonite will see it back in good condition however!
Geoff B
Have just come down from Upper Cwm Glas & it's not good; beginning to thaw everywhere. Crux of Sinister has gone & the ice & the snow slopes are turning slushy & insecure. A good freeze tonite will see it back in good condition however!
Geoff B
In reply to chummer:
Ladders very damp today, things improved right at the top but needs a hard frost - otherwise avoid.
Ladders very damp today, things improved right at the top but needs a hard frost - otherwise avoid.
In reply to Adam L:
I'd back that up. Went in today for either Gallipoli or The Somme. Looking pretty black now in the lower and middle sections with sugary waterlogged snow throughout. Snow retreating off ledges and turf becoming visible. Ice de-laminating and water flowing behind in bottom half of crag.
After much deliberation we ditched the idea of either of the grade V's and thought we'd save the day by doing Playschool. Initial Eastern Gully icefall was pouring with water and had a huge horizontal crack at 1/3 height whereby the whole fall appears to have dropped 6 inches! Still, I carried on with pushed in screws for pro. Slight exageration there but they did rattle around a bit. The rest of the route was reasonable but the turf was only just satisfactory and even the top third of the crag appears to be de-riming. Saw a team bail off Western Gully pitch 1 aswell. Otherwise no-one around. Winter appears to be ending on the Ladders - go elsewhere.
Found a screw - give me some details of where lost, type and length etc and you can have it back.
> Ladders ... avoid.
I'd back that up. Went in today for either Gallipoli or The Somme. Looking pretty black now in the lower and middle sections with sugary waterlogged snow throughout. Snow retreating off ledges and turf becoming visible. Ice de-laminating and water flowing behind in bottom half of crag.
After much deliberation we ditched the idea of either of the grade V's and thought we'd save the day by doing Playschool. Initial Eastern Gully icefall was pouring with water and had a huge horizontal crack at 1/3 height whereby the whole fall appears to have dropped 6 inches! Still, I carried on with pushed in screws for pro. Slight exageration there but they did rattle around a bit. The rest of the route was reasonable but the turf was only just satisfactory and even the top third of the crag appears to be de-riming. Saw a team bail off Western Gully pitch 1 aswell. Otherwise no-one around. Winter appears to be ending on the Ladders - go elsewhere.
Found a screw - give me some details of where lost, type and length etc and you can have it back.
In reply to FedUp: Hi, I dropped a srew off the fourth? Pitch of the somme. A stuby, black diamond express - i think. it was a mates! Let me know if its the one!
Rory
Rory
In reply to FedUp: Thanks for the knowledge Adam, Rory, we abandoned our plans for the Somme late last night, I sacked it completely, Streaky and Mr Panton have gone up to Clogwyn Du. Sounds like you just made it for the Somme Rory you lucky bugger! Good work!
That's a good guess for that screw Rory....ha ha. I think it was mine, a 13cm Black Diamond Express screw with a gold handle thing......no wait...it might have been a 10 cm one.....no er...it was 16cm..you pikey!
That's a good guess for that screw Rory....ha ha. I think it was mine, a 13cm Black Diamond Express screw with a gold handle thing......no wait...it might have been a 10 cm one.....no er...it was 16cm..you pikey!
In reply to chummer: i dont like your tone jon
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Hi, looking at getting out on monday/tuesday would appreciate advice as to likely conditions on easier routes in Cwm Cneifion, Y Garn ,Cwm Fynnon LLoer , Cwm Glas, trinty face etc. Given rising temps forecat are gullies likely to be slush and would ridge walks be a better option. Or is the season end nigh?
In reply to cragtyke: Was in cwn cneifion friday evening, mushy snow on the slopes until last 50-70 metres where it firmed up nicely late afternoon. Hidden & end gullies still good, the prominent ice fall left of the main buttress is still there, Plenty of ice on pillar chimney and left hand gully & no real change since last saturday. Right hand gully still good plastic snow / ice on the steeper sections, bit soft otherwise but enjoyable. Early am or late pm obviously best time of day at present.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Just got back from trinity face, arrived there not long after 8 this morning. The snow has softened a great deal, not a very good freeze last night and it was blowing a gale. Avalanche debris down central trinity and left hand trinity, could't see any more because of the cloud. Snow pack feels soft, going through to the turf in places, the snowpack doesn't seem to be stuck to the turf which is now thawing as well! Couldn't see if the cornice had collapsed above ladies gully and right hand trinity yet. A couple of parties on the face as well they might have some different opinions but it looks poor at the moment.
Ben
Just got back from trinity face, arrived there not long after 8 this morning. The snow has softened a great deal, not a very good freeze last night and it was blowing a gale. Avalanche debris down central trinity and left hand trinity, could't see any more because of the cloud. Snow pack feels soft, going through to the turf in places, the snowpack doesn't seem to be stuck to the turf which is now thawing as well! Couldn't see if the cornice had collapsed above ladies gully and right hand trinity yet. A couple of parties on the face as well they might have some different opinions but it looks poor at the moment.
Ben
In reply to benny_m: I've been out adventuring today. Set off from the Pyg Inn up the Miners' Track to Llyn y Caseg-Fraith. Thick mist, so I waited an hour for it to clear then descended to the north face of Y Foel Goch. There are no winter routes recorded but I spied potential from the Carneddau last week.
I managed to contrive an easy route up iced slabs, snow ramps and mixed ground to the summit. The snow was softening but the turf was solid and the ice was good. It's an impressive face with some potential I think. I imagine earlier in the season there would have been loads of ice there. Mostly the ground is of the climb-anywhere variety but I did notice one chimney where it looked like a big icicle would form. Might be a new route for someone who climbs far harder than me!
A few photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623612603612/
I managed to contrive an easy route up iced slabs, snow ramps and mixed ground to the summit. The snow was softening but the turf was solid and the ice was good. It's an impressive face with some potential I think. I imagine earlier in the season there would have been loads of ice there. Mostly the ground is of the climb-anywhere variety but I did notice one chimney where it looked like a big icicle would form. Might be a new route for someone who climbs far harder than me!
A few photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikepeacock/sets/72157623612603612/
In reply to FedUp: Did Pyramid Gully today and it was fine but we were on it early. By the time we got to the top the snow was turning crap and last night's frost's effect had all but gone
In reply to Mike Peacock: We just ran up Snowdon finishing at dusk, up the Llanberis path, very banked out, didn't need crampons, kicking in was enough due to the soft condition of the snow, but wouldn't have fancied doing that without the secuity of an axe.
One of the dogs likes rolling over and sliding on her back down snow banks, so we had to watch her on that section, otherwise fine, then ran down the rangers which is much safer.
There was ice at the summit, otherwise it was fairly slushy.
One of the dogs likes rolling over and sliding on her back down snow banks, so we had to watch her on that section, otherwise fine, then ran down the rangers which is much safer.
There was ice at the summit, otherwise it was fairly slushy.
In reply to IainRUK:
Anyone had a look at Cneifion Arete in last couple of days. Im presuming there isnt much snow or ice on it now??
Anyone had a look at Cneifion Arete in last couple of days. Im presuming there isnt much snow or ice on it now??
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I did B gully, Y-Garn on saturday. Snow was soft until the last 50 meters. There was a couple of climbers also doing C gully, they said the snow pack was breaking up.
In reply to trek:
We walked past Cneifion Arete yesterday, it looked completely snow-free.
We did Right Hand and Left Hand Gullies, both were in excellent condition - LH has to be one of the best routes I've done. Some friends did Tower Slabs, also v good nick. They went back up today to do some more routes so will no doubt report in due course. We decided we needed a day off carrying large weights up mountains, and went to Tremadog instead
We walked past Cneifion Arete yesterday, it looked completely snow-free.
We did Right Hand and Left Hand Gullies, both were in excellent condition - LH has to be one of the best routes I've done. Some friends did Tower Slabs, also v good nick. They went back up today to do some more routes so will no doubt report in due course. We decided we needed a day off carrying large weights up mountains, and went to Tremadog instead
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Had another walk in to trinity face today. loads of people out getting lost in the morning mist trying to find their routes for the day. We ended up going up then down 'left hand' then went for trinity buttress. The turf was solid but the snow was wet and slippy. It was another great day out but unless we have a freak cold snap i think it'll be my last winter trip to wales this year. It's been amazing. The Winter of 2009/10...i was there...
In reply to Ryan Wilson: Thank you, Ryan, for good info, and those who posted about Black Ladder!
We went to Cwm Cneifion today (Sun 14 Mar) and did Left-hand gully. Didn't use crampons in approach. The ice in the crux P2 is thick and good enough to climb on in confidence, but too thin to place decent screws --- I found 10cm maximum if on reasonable ice (I mean, not on bubbly and inflated ice). Ice is still there in the top chimney pitch. 0 degC at the top. Right-hand looked even thinner, but we didn't do it, so can't tell, really.
We went to Cwm Cneifion today (Sun 14 Mar) and did Left-hand gully. Didn't use crampons in approach. The ice in the crux P2 is thick and good enough to climb on in confidence, but too thin to place decent screws --- I found 10cm maximum if on reasonable ice (I mean, not on bubbly and inflated ice). Ice is still there in the top chimney pitch. 0 degC at the top. Right-hand looked even thinner, but we didn't do it, so can't tell, really.
The Ladders were thawing on Saturday. Had hoped to do a mixed route but the turf was only half-frozen and the snow wasn't frozen at all at the level of the terrace, so ended up doing Icefall Gully, which was just about hanging on but won't be there for much longer! Avoided parking issue by getting a lift to Gerlan, then walking off into Ogwen (NB: no reception at the roadside but there is some higher up the hillside), getting a lift to Capel and then a taxi back to the hut at Nant Peris (a bit pricey though).
Went most of the way up to the Trinity Face today for an easy route but one of our party got back pain so we bailed. Didn't seem to be missing out on much.
So... that's just about it for this amazing Welsh winter season. Time to dig the rock shoes out while hoping that Scottish winter conditions hold out until Easter. Thanks to everyone for keeping this thread updated and let's hope next season is as good.
Went most of the way up to the Trinity Face today for an easy route but one of our party got back pain so we bailed. Didn't seem to be missing out on much.
So... that's just about it for this amazing Welsh winter season. Time to dig the rock shoes out while hoping that Scottish winter conditions hold out until Easter. Thanks to everyone for keeping this thread updated and let's hope next season is as good.
In reply to masa-alpin: right hand was fine today, really nice ice! looked thin from a distance but fat when up close up. all thawing fast though, we were also in cym cneiffon yesterday and the snow area in the lower cwym had got noticeably smaller overnight
In reply to Toreador: I'm guessing you were the team we met in Y Gully? We did Cleft Gully earlier which was in great nick - the top bulge was so plastered with ice I couldn't get any high runners in - made it quiet exciting pulling round the icicle bulge! Funny how this route was ignored/undocumented for all those years until this season. It is mentioned in passing in Cold Climbs though (albeit missing out the steep 6 finish, and taking the ramp out right across the top of the crag).
It was very wintery when we got to crag; see a pic here:
http://news.v12outdoor.com/gallery/
Later we did that 4 ice fall up at the far right side of the crag - a really good pitch and well worth the stomp up the approach gully.
It was very wintery when we got to crag; see a pic here:
http://news.v12outdoor.com/gallery/
Later we did that 4 ice fall up at the far right side of the crag - a really good pitch and well worth the stomp up the approach gully.
In reply to Simon Panton:
Hi Simon,
looked at that on descent (sunday looked a lot worse). Is it possible to easily escape into Hidden Gully from top of P1 (not sure i am upto 6 but P1 looked excellent)
Hi Simon,
looked at that on descent (sunday looked a lot worse). Is it possible to easily escape into Hidden Gully from top of P1 (not sure i am upto 6 but P1 looked excellent)
In reply to Simon Panton:
If you were the pair who headed up the right hand branch, then yes that was us. Left-hand was excellent, though I've got a nice black eye from all that ice that kept pouring down the route
> I'm guessing you were the team we met in Y Gully?
If you were the pair who headed up the right hand branch, then yes that was us. Left-hand was excellent, though I've got a nice black eye from all that ice that kept pouring down the route
In reply to lithos:
It looked like you could reach Hidden Gully from the top of P1, in fact there was a set of foot prints leading that way on Saturday.
However, a better finish I reckon would be to follow the obvious ramp line out right to the top of Cracking Up (as mentioned in Cold Climbs). Probably straightforward, but the position would be quite spectacular.
> (In reply to Simon Panton)
>
> Hi Simon,
>
> looked at that on descent (sunday looked a lot worse). Is it possible to easily escape into Hidden Gully from top of P1 (not sure i am upto 6 but P1 looked excellent)
>
> Hi Simon,
>
> looked at that on descent (sunday looked a lot worse). Is it possible to easily escape into Hidden Gully from top of P1 (not sure i am upto 6 but P1 looked excellent)
It looked like you could reach Hidden Gully from the top of P1, in fact there was a set of foot prints leading that way on Saturday.
However, a better finish I reckon would be to follow the obvious ramp line out right to the top of Cracking Up (as mentioned in Cold Climbs). Probably straightforward, but the position would be quite spectacular.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
This is going to sound really optomistic but do you people reckon anything will still be in climbable condition up high at the start of the Easter hols (in two weeks)?
Cheers,
James
This is going to sound really optomistic but do you people reckon anything will still be in climbable condition up high at the start of the Easter hols (in two weeks)?
Cheers,
James
In reply to pebbles: Thank you for your clarification re Clogwyn Du Gully RH.
I have uploaded the weekend photos to Flickr, including the view of entire Clogwyn Du:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/alpiniste/sets/72157623504226999/
You can tell Travesty area is black (if you care!), but some other routes were still in condition.
I have uploaded the weekend photos to Flickr, including the view of entire Clogwyn Du:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/alpiniste/sets/72157623504226999/
You can tell Travesty area is black (if you care!), but some other routes were still in condition.
In reply to CAMDENELECTRIC:
It's due to be warm and wet at the end of this week, which will accelerate the thaw. Though if we get another cold spell then some of the easy gullies could come back in (assuming some of the snow has survived - which is quite possible given the quantity that's there).
I'd head for Scotland instead.
It's due to be warm and wet at the end of this week, which will accelerate the thaw. Though if we get another cold spell then some of the easy gullies could come back in (assuming some of the snow has survived - which is quite possible given the quantity that's there).
I'd head for Scotland instead.
In reply to Toreador:
Id love to go back up to scotland! unfortunately money and time are not going to permit that
It sounds like im going to be hard pushed to find either any rock that isnt wet and is therefore unclimbable or any winter routes in condition
Oh well we will see what happens...
Id love to go back up to scotland! unfortunately money and time are not going to permit that
It sounds like im going to be hard pushed to find either any rock that isnt wet and is therefore unclimbable or any winter routes in condition
Oh well we will see what happens...
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Hi all is there still lots of snow in gulleys and on top. We are looking at doing a multi pitch somewhere pos on Idwal just wondering what conditions are like high up as in are ice axe and crampons still order of the day
Andy
Andy
In reply to CAMDENELECTRIC:
We ice climbed on Saturday and rock climbed on Sunday
We ice climbed on Saturday and rock climbed on Sunday
In reply to andyd1970:
Andy
There is still plenty of snow on the summits and certainly in high north facing ish gullies, but as has been said it is pretty cruddy and a thaw is on the go. Nothing on Idwal slabs though if thats what you mean.
Have updated my blog as to what I found in Cwm Cneifion yesterday http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
Andy Whitmore
Andy
There is still plenty of snow on the summits and certainly in high north facing ish gullies, but as has been said it is pretty cruddy and a thaw is on the go. Nothing on Idwal slabs though if thats what you mean.
Have updated my blog as to what I found in Cwm Cneifion yesterday http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
Andy Whitmore
In reply to andyd1970: Hi, did Did Broad Gully on Cwm Fynnon Lloer today which was in good condition and is a good,long route. The only softness was right at the top where the sun gets on it, despite it being a really warm sunny day in the valley. Thrashed around in the mist on cwm cneifion on monday and did Tower Slabs which was also in decent condition.
Climbed Sinister Gully in Cwm Glas yesterday. Snow and ice still in good condition even though it was warm and sunny (10 degrees) in the Pass.
In reply to trek:
Don't see why not, it was in good condition at the weekend, and it's not been that warm yet.
> Tower Slabs was in condition on monday???
Don't see why not, it was in good condition at the weekend, and it's not been that warm yet.
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: There's a photo on the BBC that nicely illustrates the dangers of a fall from the Snowdon railway tracks:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/8568987.stm
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/8568987.stm
In reply to Toreador:
What I could see of it through the clag on monday, it looked poor. Thats all I meant. I do hope I'm wrong though!!
What I could see of it through the clag on monday, it looked poor. Thats all I meant. I do hope I'm wrong though!!
In reply to trek: we failed to find Clogwyn Du in the mist, but did the slabs later when it cleared a bit, some slight thawing of the ice occuring but otherwise fine, amazingly cold wind on the ridge. Keep up the blog.
In reply to trek:
I imagine that it's become poor by now if the weather forecasts for today are to be believed
I imagine that it's become poor by now if the weather forecasts for today are to be believed
In reply to Toreador:
I take it back! Had email just now re: Tower Slabs http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
I take it back! Had email just now re: Tower Slabs http://andymountains.blogspot.com/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: The last weekend of the six nations seems to mark the end of the winter season in Wales for some reason!
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: It's over...
In reply to jimjimjim: I didn't even bother making for the summits yesterday, the weather was that unpleasant! I just skulked round the Gwydyr Forest.
Anyway, I've thoroughly enjoyed the winter. Roll on sunny rock and BBQ weather now...
Anyway, I've thoroughly enjoyed the winter. Roll on sunny rock and BBQ weather now...
In reply to Mike Peacock: I was down in the Elan Valley, admittedly at a road race, but it climbed over 1500ft and conditions were very nice. No cloud, light winds and no rain. South Snowdonia seemed to get good weather also from mid day onwards.
I ventured up from sunny Cornwall with a mate for the weekend as it had been planned for a few weeks and a little bit of a thaw was not going to stop us!
We were thoroughly despondent by the time we got to Pen Y Pass YH late on Fri, everyone saying that there was nothing in condition. However, despite many laughs as we headed up a distinctivley snow free Miners Track weighted down with ropes and crampons and a pair of axes on show each we definitely had the last laugh. There was some evidence of recent avalanche activity on Central Trinity so we opted to do End Gully which was just about in conditon with a few bare bits of rock in the middle 30m up. The same people that laughed at us on the way up were now summiting in there jeans and trainers and sliding on the ice and snow near the tops it was a good feeling knowing we had made the effort and given it a go.
Sunday saw us heading out with an ex-MRT guy we had met the night before in the YH who promised us snow and ice galore in the Nameless Cym above Idwal and he was not wrong! We did Corner Gully which was in good nick and still complete with some ice on the left hand side near the top and decended by Hidden Gully (thanks to 2 helpful chaps who showed us the way as neither of us were familair with this area of wales). Tower Gully, Easy Route and a few others were still complete with relatively hard snow and Tower Slabs appeared to have a lot of ice still on it but thinning in places. We saw 3 pairs all day and all managed to get some routes done whilst evryone else dismissed the season as over!
Not sure how long it will last though....
We were thoroughly despondent by the time we got to Pen Y Pass YH late on Fri, everyone saying that there was nothing in condition. However, despite many laughs as we headed up a distinctivley snow free Miners Track weighted down with ropes and crampons and a pair of axes on show each we definitely had the last laugh. There was some evidence of recent avalanche activity on Central Trinity so we opted to do End Gully which was just about in conditon with a few bare bits of rock in the middle 30m up. The same people that laughed at us on the way up were now summiting in there jeans and trainers and sliding on the ice and snow near the tops it was a good feeling knowing we had made the effort and given it a go.
Sunday saw us heading out with an ex-MRT guy we had met the night before in the YH who promised us snow and ice galore in the Nameless Cym above Idwal and he was not wrong! We did Corner Gully which was in good nick and still complete with some ice on the left hand side near the top and decended by Hidden Gully (thanks to 2 helpful chaps who showed us the way as neither of us were familair with this area of wales). Tower Gully, Easy Route and a few others were still complete with relatively hard snow and Tower Slabs appeared to have a lot of ice still on it but thinning in places. We saw 3 pairs all day and all managed to get some routes done whilst evryone else dismissed the season as over!
Not sure how long it will last though....
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: What a winter!!!! It looks as though spring has sprung - the weather looks great. Here's hoping it will be T-Shirts in Pass within days, and a blistering summer of unequaled proportions, then a massive freeze in November.
Fingers crossed
Fingers crossed
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: I'm heading up with friends next weekend. Is there little enough snow that anyone would be able to do the Pyg track to the top without crampons or is it still tricky?
Still hoping to do Crib Goch myself, so similarly, has it thawed or still likely to be icy?
Cheers
Still hoping to do Crib Goch myself, so similarly, has it thawed or still likely to be icy?
Cheers
In reply to mantlej:
Im heading up next weekend aswell does anyone know if anything around the Tryfan area is still in condition? I was thinking Devil's Kitchen but we dont mind a bit of a drive to find some good ice/snow if its not too far...
Cheers,
James
Im heading up next weekend aswell does anyone know if anything around the Tryfan area is still in condition? I was thinking Devil's Kitchen but we dont mind a bit of a drive to find some good ice/snow if its not too far...
Cheers,
James
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Will the thread manage to get stretched to 2000 posts?
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Looks like the last winter post from Baggy
Check out http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/
Looks like the last winter post from Baggy
Check out http://wwwbaggy.blogspot.com/
In reply to Charlie Burbridge: Any snow/ice left on the Snowdon Horseshoe or can we leave the axes and crampons at home this weekend?!!
In reply to hopskin316:
There was a bit of ice and snow on the Llech Ddu Spur on saturday and on the top of Carnedd Dafydd so was happy i had my axe, hard to say next weekend but just take em dude rather have them and not need them than the other way round
There was a bit of ice and snow on the Llech Ddu Spur on saturday and on the top of Carnedd Dafydd so was happy i had my axe, hard to say next weekend but just take em dude rather have them and not need them than the other way round
In reply to Charlie Burbridge:
Not sure about the blistering heat Charles, nice clear days with temps around 15 on the tops will suit me nicely until your promised November freeze arrives!
But for next winter I am going to change my approach, just in case. That will mean minimising any other diary commitments, keeping a winter bag packed and waiting for you to start this thread again.
PS. We near 2,000 post yet?
Not sure about the blistering heat Charles, nice clear days with temps around 15 on the tops will suit me nicely until your promised November freeze arrives!
But for next winter I am going to change my approach, just in case. That will mean minimising any other diary commitments, keeping a winter bag packed and waiting for you to start this thread again.
PS. We near 2,000 post yet?
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Winter Conditions
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are...
23 Apr
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