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Which Alpine Winter Boot?

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 billy.grant 28 Nov 2009
I've been debating on which winter boots to get for quite a while now and would like some advice.

I have really narrow feet so fit is important. I'd also like something that could be used with skis to do easy glacial approaches. Something with a removable inner is desirable.

After hearing too many bad things about Baturas I've discounted them. I want something that is going to have a surplus of warmth as I do get quite cold feet.

Scarpa Omegas and Sportiva Spantiks look like the ideal boots so I'm interested to hear from people who have used either boot and what pros and cons they found.

Cheers.
 EwanR 28 Nov 2009
In reply to billy.grant: The other boots you should consider are the Phantom 6000 which are supposed to have a similar level of warmth to the Spantiks. Obviously it all comes down to fit though!

I have the Spantiks and they are everything they claim to be - warm, comfortable and they climb well.

> I'd also like something that could be used with skis to do easy glacial approaches.

If you want to ski then get ski boots - they're nice and warm and good to climb in. Although I've never done it, everything I've heard about skiing in mountaineering boots makes me think it's a very bad idea. Plus, should you really want to then you would have to try and find some AT bindings like the silvretta easy-go that will take such a boot....

Bon chance!
OP billy.grant 28 Nov 2009
In reply to EwanR: Wasn't looking for something to ski in, more a boot that would be able to skin up Argentiere Glacier. I had a pair of touring boots but bootfitter in Chamonix sent them back to Scarpa after they broke and I've yet to hear back. I've only done a couple of short routes in the touring boots and from that experience I wouldn't want to be doing big routes in them.

Thanks for the advice regarding Spantiks. One question I do have is reagarding the laces. Are they as pathetic as they look? I wouldn't be giving them sustained abuse but it does seem like one of the gripes that people have.

Prefer the idea of Spantiks due to the higher ankle cuff. Scarpa Omegas look like they have a very low ankle which in deep snow I'd imagine is quite annoying.
 EwanR 28 Nov 2009
> Thanks for the advice regarding Spantiks. One question I do have is reagarding the laces. Are they as pathetic as they look?

Mine have survived so far but the general consensus, which I will follow for this winter, is to use 2mm kevlar cord instead (and take some spare). Whilst being a little odd the lacing system does seem to work well.

 Dane1 28 Nov 2009
In reply to billy.grant:

Used the Spantik for two seasons. I have extremely narrow feet and eventually went to a custom inner boot. Never really a satisfactory solution.

Using the Baruntse now and fit is very good off the shelf, even better after you thrrmo fit the inner which is easy. Sportiva actually gives directions now.

Retro lace system is much easier to fit well. Better imo than the Spantik and no loss in warmth and some gain in climbing performance I think.

This may help:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/904581/The_new_Sport...
OP billy.grant 28 Nov 2009
In reply to Dane1: Thanks for the link. I don't think the Baruntses are very easy to get hold of in the UK, but I've seen them in France.
oui oui 28 Nov 2009
In reply to billy.grant:

I'll add my 2p worth....

On the Spantiks, I was advised that you need a size bigger than your normal size, and this would seem spot on.
I did have a pair of Baturas in my normal size, this was a snug fit, my Spantiks (which replaced them) are a full size larger than my normal boot size and they are fairly snug in fit. No way would I fit into Spantiks in my normal size.

The UK distributer doesn't seem to bring the Spantik into the UK in half sizes, but La Sportiva say they are available in half sizes on their website. A possible consideration if you were buying overseas or by mail order.

The biggest minus point I can see over the Omegas you mention as an alternative, is the price - Spantiks are around £200 more than the Omegas, that's quite a hefty price tag(!)

Oh, and the inner boots are identical to those used in the Olympus Mons
 EwanR 28 Nov 2009
> On the Spantiks, I was advised that you need a size bigger than your normal size, and this would seem spot on.

Interesting! I take half a size smaller in Spantiks than nepal extremes.

> The UK distributer doesn't seem to bring the Spantik into the UK in half sizes, but La Sportiva say they are available in half sizes on their website. A possible consideration if you were buying overseas or by mail order.

Yep. I would say that if you want such boots and are planning on using them in the Alps then get them over here. I know that Au Vieux Campeur (Sallanches) and Snell's (Chamonix) have all the models mentioned and that includes the Spantiks in half sizes.

Interesting comments about the Baruntses above - they are also worth looking at.
Removed User 30 Nov 2009
In reply to billy.grant:
Re Omegas. I found them shite to ski downhill in. (Uphill was ok, but I am a shite skier enyway) The low ankle just means you need gaiters, (I generally get away with bngy loop on trousers though).
Cheaper, lighter, less warm than Spantiks. Quite different boot really.

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