UKC

Over the last few weeks Mike Adams has once again been pulling like a beast and climbing some outstanding problems.

Saturday just gone saw Mike string together what he describes as the hardest set of moves he has ever climbed.

Serenity, first climbed by Dan Varian starts low in a Limestone...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=50619

In reply to UKC News: Impressive stuff

Pedant's corner:

Groove is in the Heart now weighs in at a high ball Font 8A+

In reply to UKC News:

I'm a bit confused, has a new lower start been added to Sernedipity or has he just repeated Dan Varian's line?

In reply to Tyler: Yes I was a bit confused too.

Tony told me this:

(Mike's original problem was called Serenity, Dan's 8B, the extra move into this, is called Serendipity)

Which I added in. However the exact details of this limestone roof are perhaps left enigmatic, as it makes it all, well, you know, that little bit sexier. Or something. Ok. maybe not.

Jack

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Can you vague that up for me?

In reply to UKC News:

'old news' first reported here on the 28th Oct

http://web.me.com/andrewwhall/blocspenwith/Blog/Blog.html

In reply to aw:

I think UKC might have a slightly higher readership!

In reply to Tom Briggs:

I'm sure it has!

In reply to Serpico: Oooh stop it. I'm trying to work!

Back on topic: Good effort to Mike. The SW problem looks high!

Jack

In reply to aw: just to clarify I'm referring to the section about Clodgy.

In reply to aw:

I want to try and answer most questions on this as the news post has seams to have become somewhat confussing. (also I have lost my password for UKB so if anyone on here can post this on there as well it would be good thanks)

Mike has (in his own words) just repeated Serendipity and confirmed 8b+, but has started this from its logical start at the two lowest holds on the back wall(not in the roof). He is not claiming a new problem (as most of the climbing was done by Dan and it is his forsight that lead to this low start) as it was already confusing with names and what goes where.

Anway Serendipity now starts as low is can and is just the most impressive line at the crag (not to mention the hardest)

Tony

In reply to aw:

Andy, yes it is old news but it is news, we thought we would tell the locals about before anyone else. Has anyone been on it yet?

Tony

In reply to Tony Simpson:

Please if anyone on here has an account on UKB can you ask the right folk to sort my account password out for my.

My email has changed as well so sorry

tonysimpson72@googlemail.co.uk

If you could email the passord to here I post and answer folks again.

Cheers

In reply to Tony Simpson:

Hi Tony

We went out and had a go, before the rain set in, something to go at for sure.

In reply to Tony Simpson:

It seams that some folks are getting a bit upset that this place is secret.

If this is the case why would I or Dan have post news about it on a public site.

The problem is at a place called the impossible roof in the woods above the sewerage works off abbey lane, near Maltby.

Please note that this is the only crag in the area that climbing is allowed on. Please do not climb on any crags that are on Lord Scarbourgh's Land. inc Roache Abbey without permission.

Cheers

T

In reply to Tony Simpson: Hi Tony. I'll check with Mike on UKB and try to get your password problem sorted.

In reply to Boy:

Cheers that will be good.

In reply to The Mole:


Er, "Pedants' Corner" surely?

In reply:

A fine effort.

But:

"Groove is in the Heart (...) would be considered a short E7/8 ... "

By whom? That's a big number for a little bit of climbing.

In reply to tim carruthers:



What grade did it feel to you when you did it?

I don’t like making a fuss in the public domain but just to try to sort a few things out before it gets silly:

I have at no time ever said that The groove would warrant an E7/8 grade. I presume this is Tony's opinion and one that I presume is exaggerate? It is however a highball problem and is scary but has only ever been approached as such so describing it any other way is pointless! A few other points of note are this was originally graded as a V8 highball. I repeated this and felt it was probably worth about 7b+ font, so about right. Tony then ripped of the biggest crimp off which more importantly was also the largest foot hold higher up. Now I don't know about the first accensionist sequence but this made a huge difference to the difficulty of the stand up for me. It made it harder at the bottom crux and also much more difficult at the top where before it had all been easy for me. The sit start down and left was an obvious harder extension which coupled with the now harder top section is where the grade comes from. The rest is as the report says. I personally felt it was a lot harder than the other 8a's that I had climbed down south. Reguardless of the grade it is a quality extension to a quality problem at an undersold venue. So if your ever down there check it out.

As for Serendipity this was first climbed by Dan, which I witnessed, it is a low start to a problem called Serenity of mine. At the time there was some doubt as to weather Serenity was 8a+ or 8b. Dan added a low start to this which he graded as 8a in its own right. Because of the unconfirmed grade and his own modesty he said that the grade for serendipity was a hard or top end 8b. Now the grade for Serenity has settled at an 8b, so if you are going to grade an extension start as 8a the logical outcome is that the grade for Serendipity is probably an 8b+. My own personal experience is that Serendipity is a lot harder than Serenity. It was also for me harder than other 8b’s I have done. So although I have trouble wanting to stick my neck out it probably is 8b+

Hope that Helps - Mike A

In reply to Dolph:

Sounds spot on to me. Did you get all that, Serpico?

In reply to tim carruthers:

I did, I presume that it agrees with your experience of the route/problem?

In reply to Serpico:

I agrees with my experience of bouldering and short routes, yes.

In reply to Nic:

Not if there's only one Pedant.