Having given Climb Magazine enough time to reply to my email, I now feel compelled to throw this open to a larger audience.
On page 3 of the December edition, is a piece entitled “Climb Undercuts” where the editor writes his monthly piece. Accompanying this is a great photograph of a climber holding some undercuts. The caption that describes the image reads as follows:
“Scott Sadler on the first ascent of Super Snatch (E5 6a) in Troy Quarry, Lancashire. The new line is essentially a direct start to the recently added Pink Edge (E3 6a) also claimed by Scott earlier in the year. Super Snatch starts to the right and involves a technical 6a sequence on small crimps and layaways to reach a good flake at a very uncomfortable height above a nasty landing. (Bad landings are common in Troy!) Another powerful layaway is required to reach “thank god” holds and the first protection at nine metres. A final tricky mantel is required to top out. Witnessed by a very concerned and much appreciated set of spotters”
I bought this magazine, my first of a climbing variety in the last couple of years. I was rather proud to see a photograph of a Lancashire quarry in such a prominent position, and after reading the description, and never having been to Troy and not knowing any of the people involved I took down my copy of Lancashire Rock from the shelf, to learn more. It wasn’t long before I found a route called Pink Edge (E2 5b), first ascended on April 18th 1982 by Ian Conway, Tony Nichols, and Bruce Goodwin. It was then re-ascended on April 28th 1992 by Alan Holden and Matt Nuttall after rockfall. This leads me to my first question, has there been another rockfall?
My second question is developed from investigation of the proposed new route, Super Snatch. There are at least two other contenders for the first ascent of this line, or very similar on UKC (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=91575,http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=126595). The similarities of them have not gone unnoticed by other users, as can be seen by the comments made on the Purgatroy topo (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=126593). I think it worth mentioning that Scott Sadler has a photograph of the first ascent of Quake Flake, the remaining contender for the first ascent, in his UKC gallery. Are all these climbs the same line, and if not can someone explain why?
Made a mistake with the name. I wrongly named the E3 6a that Scott climbed as Pink Edge. Pink edge is the existing route left again. Scott's route is an independant line right of pink edge (Think this is Quake Flake) and then the direct on this is Super Snatch (E5 6a)
In reply to Mark Collins: Hi mark, I think I can clear this up for you, I stumbled upon the line that wes and i climbed as purgatroy in october. We could not find any evidence that it had beeen climbed previously so we submitted it as a new route. I too was confused when i saw the picture in climb but after checking dates this route has to be credited to scott sadler who actually did it as super snatch last year.
If you want to know any more then let me know
