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So I went to westway for the 1st time today... and to be honest was very disappointed. For the amount of money I paid I was faced with a bouldering wall where the colours and routes were impossible to see due to the chalk ALL over them, and blackened by rubber from peoples shoes.
And the routes.. don't even get me started - definition of hard for westway seems to be jugs spaced further apart!
Has anyone else experienced this - the leading and routes looked fab - and were busy - so perhaps this is their main focus. But still the bouldering wall was just a waste of my £9.50!
And the routes.. don't even get me started - definition of hard for westway seems to be jugs spaced further apart!
Has anyone else experienced this - the leading and routes looked fab - and were busy - so perhaps this is their main focus. But still the bouldering wall was just a waste of my £9.50!
In reply to boulderingwannabe:
Westway grades are for when you need an ego stroke. A full grade softer than many others.
As for the bouldering, can't comment.
Westway grades are for when you need an ego stroke. A full grade softer than many others.
As for the bouldering, can't comment.
In reply to JJL: I've heard that about the routes..(perhaps thats why they were busy!!) was just taken a back by the routes setting on the boulder wall - compared to the other big centres in london...
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: i'm pleased it wasn't just me with these thoughts then! thanks
In reply to boulderingwannabe:
WW has best leading in London but it's bouldering is somewhere below Mile End, Arch and Castle. £9.50 just about worth it with a grudge if you've got a rope but not without. I reckon the routes on 79 and 80 are always brilliant, nicely sustained, and maybe a bit softly graded.
WW has best leading in London but it's bouldering is somewhere below Mile End, Arch and Castle. £9.50 just about worth it with a grudge if you've got a rope but not without. I reckon the routes on 79 and 80 are always brilliant, nicely sustained, and maybe a bit softly graded.
In reply to boulderingwannabe: so far everyones in agreement that the bouldering sucks - but the routes are palatable...
In reply to boulderingwannabe: The westway has grown on me, now I'm up there 5 times a week as it's all I've got. Nearly always boulder as it's more convienient and better training.
I like the place, it's not great, but it's ok. There are a lot of steep jugs. And a lot of reaches. If I could bring my feet up to my head, a lot of problems would be a lot easier.
I do think making a few routes with very small slopers, e.g on the slabs, would be good. Improve technique not just cranking jugs. At the moment, I have to just make my own routes, and even then there isn't many.
And it is hard to see the holds. I failed a lot of times on some problem, absolutely nails I thought, way harder than anything I'd ever seen. Then saw another hold. Still nails but just doable. Then saw another hold and it became easy. And some of the route setting, grey and white routes right next to each other, with the white holds greyed through shoes, and the grey ones whiter through chalk.
Also, painting a slab with aggressively textured paint seems like a bad idea to me, I'm a little paranoid of falling and sliding down it.
I like the place, it's not great, but it's ok. There are a lot of steep jugs. And a lot of reaches. If I could bring my feet up to my head, a lot of problems would be a lot easier.
I do think making a few routes with very small slopers, e.g on the slabs, would be good. Improve technique not just cranking jugs. At the moment, I have to just make my own routes, and even then there isn't many.
And it is hard to see the holds. I failed a lot of times on some problem, absolutely nails I thought, way harder than anything I'd ever seen. Then saw another hold. Still nails but just doable. Then saw another hold and it became easy. And some of the route setting, grey and white routes right next to each other, with the white holds greyed through shoes, and the grey ones whiter through chalk.
Also, painting a slab with aggressively textured paint seems like a bad idea to me, I'm a little paranoid of falling and sliding down it.
In reply to fishy1: Thanks for the comments.. the friction paint is very 'frictiony' on the comp wall slabby bit.. but then the holds have no friction what so ever due to the inch thick chalk and rubber mix on them...
...and you are right - i followed a beige route - with a yellow one (which was very beige) right next to it.. its not that hard is it to set different colours?
I honestly don't think i'll go back - be interesting to hear a good thing said about it - but so far nothing!!
...and you are right - i followed a beige route - with a yellow one (which was very beige) right next to it.. its not that hard is it to set different colours?
I honestly don't think i'll go back - be interesting to hear a good thing said about it - but so far nothing!!
In reply to boulderingwannabe: Dont know much about grades but there are two problems on the back wall, both set by Jack Griffiths, one beige V4 with lion tags and a blue V3 next to it which traverses the low roof leftwards and then goes up the arete. Thought they were the best indoor boulder problems I had ever done. The final right handed slap on the beige makes me giggle every time I do it.
In reply to lmarenzi: the beige with lion tabs is a good problem - but spoilt by the very near same colour holds right next to it almost taking the same line... only difference is one hold has a lion tag and the others don't...
In reply to boulderingwannabe:
Totally agree
The bouldering at the westway sucks! The route setting is just wierd, I actually never was into bouldering until I started going to the arch where the routes are awesome.
The grades in westway are easier for routes but its still very good lead climbing wall!
Totally agree
The bouldering at the westway sucks! The route setting is just wierd, I actually never was into bouldering until I started going to the arch where the routes are awesome.
The grades in westway are easier for routes but its still very good lead climbing wall!
In reply to Scarab: interesting that so many are agreeing - when will westway take note.. it seems to have spent a lot of money on the bouldering - it seems a shame... the routes at the arch are fab - agreed!! and a lot of them in a mix of grades.. it was good to see a few v9's and v10's indoors.. but you have to think where the majority of climbers are, and perhaps more climbs in the v6-v7 region!
In reply to boulderingwannabe: Good point about westway: It has longer opening hours thann any other wall in london that I know of. Going in at 9 and having it pretty much to myself is ace.
In reply to boulderingwannabe: A climbing wall with holds that have chalk and rubber on it! Show me a wall that does after a good set. Surely its a sign of it's popularity! Its interesting that the same route setters that set in the westway also set in the arch and the castle. Soft? yeah something is soft around here.
In reply to boulderingwannabe:
How many people on this thread complaining about bouldering have been into the backroom? Rather than just the featured wall. It's a big step.....
How many people on this thread complaining about bouldering have been into the backroom? Rather than just the featured wall. It's a big step.....
In reply to ClimberEd:
I was wondering the same thing.
There's two bouldering walls at The Westway and, if you didn't know it was there, you'd miss the wall out the back, which is by far the harder of the two. There's certainly a good selection of stuff that is out of the league of 95%+ of the people that go there.
I was wondering the same thing.
There's two bouldering walls at The Westway and, if you didn't know it was there, you'd miss the wall out the back, which is by far the harder of the two. There's certainly a good selection of stuff that is out of the league of 95%+ of the people that go there.
In reply to ClimberEd: I think most people are talking about the bunker and not the improver league, if I am right about the lion tags.
Personally, I prefer Westway over Castle and the Arch, I think the cost is OK, provided you buy a monthly or 10 pass and as long as you lead + boulder, you get your moneys worth.
As for the grading, we all know it's a little light, but you shouldn't be climbing just for the numbers, try picking a route that looks interesting, or has a nice sequence of moves in it.
I never get peoples problem with grading, its a guide, and if you find a problem that is graded at your limit too easy, just bump the number up, try that V6 instead of the V5 you just flashed.
Well, that's my 2 cents
Personally, I prefer Westway over Castle and the Arch, I think the cost is OK, provided you buy a monthly or 10 pass and as long as you lead + boulder, you get your moneys worth.
As for the grading, we all know it's a little light, but you shouldn't be climbing just for the numbers, try picking a route that looks interesting, or has a nice sequence of moves in it.
I never get peoples problem with grading, its a guide, and if you find a problem that is graded at your limit too easy, just bump the number up, try that V6 instead of the V5 you just flashed.
Well, that's my 2 cents
In reply to boulderingwannabe:
Over the past few years I've climbed at all the London walls and have largely settled on the Westway as the best.
Pretty sure the current set of boulder problems in the back room were largely set by Steve McClure...take it up with him? Or they could have changed to ones set by Gaz Parry.
In any event, the Westway frequently gets in some of the top climbers in the country to set the bouldering section, and I think they do a pretty good job. It is annoying when routes have the same/similar coloured holds adjacent to each other - but if you're bouldering surely this shouldn't be a problem? You'll be having a close look at what to do and how to do it, unless your bouldering is all about going for flashes?
The wall routes vary in quality and difficulty, but at least there's a bunch of setters who can test the routes and they will listen to your feedback and change the grades. If you want fingery and sequency do a Slimfast route (he also sometimes sets at the Castle), powerful and reachy have a look at a Yann route (he sets at the Arch), or just damn hard try Liam's routes.
I don't think any of the other London walls have as good routes as the Westway. For bouldering the Arch and Castle are maybe better. But not really any cheaper... £40 a month at Westway for as many visits as you want doesn't seem too bad.
Over the past few years I've climbed at all the London walls and have largely settled on the Westway as the best.
Pretty sure the current set of boulder problems in the back room were largely set by Steve McClure...take it up with him? Or they could have changed to ones set by Gaz Parry.
In any event, the Westway frequently gets in some of the top climbers in the country to set the bouldering section, and I think they do a pretty good job. It is annoying when routes have the same/similar coloured holds adjacent to each other - but if you're bouldering surely this shouldn't be a problem? You'll be having a close look at what to do and how to do it, unless your bouldering is all about going for flashes?
The wall routes vary in quality and difficulty, but at least there's a bunch of setters who can test the routes and they will listen to your feedback and change the grades. If you want fingery and sequency do a Slimfast route (he also sometimes sets at the Castle), powerful and reachy have a look at a Yann route (he sets at the Arch), or just damn hard try Liam's routes.
I don't think any of the other London walls have as good routes as the Westway. For bouldering the Arch and Castle are maybe better. But not really any cheaper... £40 a month at Westway for as many visits as you want doesn't seem too bad.
In reply to RockSteady: Just because someone is a brilliant climber does not mean they will be a good routesetter, and vice versa.
In reply to boulderingwannabe:
That will seem like nothing when the castle put their casual user price up to £15/£16 which i hear they are planning to do.
> But still the bouldering wall was just a waste of my £9.50!
That will seem like nothing when the castle put their casual user price up to £15/£16 which i hear they are planning to do.
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Magic, they need to do something to kill the crowds a bit.
> (In reply to boulderingwannabe)
> [...]
>
> That will seem like nothing when the castle put their casual user price up to £15/£16 which i hear they are planning to do.
> [...]
>
> That will seem like nothing when the castle put their casual user price up to £15/£16 which i hear they are planning to do.
Magic, they need to do something to kill the crowds a bit.
In reply to boulderingwannabe:
I climb at the Westaway about 2/3 times a week and been doing it for over 5 years. Sometimes the grades are a bit out, like every wall I've been to in the country, but on average are fairly spot on compared to outside grades. I don't know what routes you did, but I think at the moment they are all quality except some that Zippy put up, right of the comp wall, which are really bad. But that hardly ever happens.
On the other side, regarding bouldering, I'm not sure if you went to the same westway I go to, because the problem set up by steve mac are awesome and on the money. The black V7 is a sandbag, but still quality. Well worth 9.50 any day
I climb at the Westaway about 2/3 times a week and been doing it for over 5 years. Sometimes the grades are a bit out, like every wall I've been to in the country, but on average are fairly spot on compared to outside grades. I don't know what routes you did, but I think at the moment they are all quality except some that Zippy put up, right of the comp wall, which are really bad. But that hardly ever happens.
On the other side, regarding bouldering, I'm not sure if you went to the same westway I go to, because the problem set up by steve mac are awesome and on the money. The black V7 is a sandbag, but still quality. Well worth 9.50 any day
In reply to ramon marin martinez:
I'm a Craggy regular, but go to Westway every now and then to get some longer-leads in (and just for variety).
I agree on the filthy holds thing, but as someone said - this mostly down to popularity.
The flip side of this is that all the holds are also VERY smooth (compared to the newer holds at Craggy2) which is actually quite pleasant, you can climb for hours and keep the skin on your hands.
The grades are soft, but if you know this, you just up your grade...
The bouldering in the main room is ok, I mostly worked the slabs last time I was up as I was really pumped from leading and it's nice to have interesting slab problems.
I'm a Craggy regular, but go to Westway every now and then to get some longer-leads in (and just for variety).
I agree on the filthy holds thing, but as someone said - this mostly down to popularity.
The flip side of this is that all the holds are also VERY smooth (compared to the newer holds at Craggy2) which is actually quite pleasant, you can climb for hours and keep the skin on your hands.
The grades are soft, but if you know this, you just up your grade...
The bouldering in the main room is ok, I mostly worked the slabs last time I was up as I was really pumped from leading and it's nice to have interesting slab problems.
In reply to fishy1:
Sure, but someone who is a very good climber has done a lot of climbing, and knows the kind of moves that come up on climbs, and can have a good shot at recreating them in the gym.
Let's say that better climbers have more credibility as route setters. And what else can a wall do?!? I don't know anyone who's famous as a route-setter rather than a climber?
Seems like a bit of a non-point?
Sure, but someone who is a very good climber has done a lot of climbing, and knows the kind of moves that come up on climbs, and can have a good shot at recreating them in the gym.
Let's say that better climbers have more credibility as route setters. And what else can a wall do?!? I don't know anyone who's famous as a route-setter rather than a climber?
Seems like a bit of a non-point?
In reply to RockSteady: you mention the kind of moves that come up on climbs.. but nothing i did at the westway the other day has ever really come up on a climb.. it just seems to me that harder = further apart.. but i've been to some walls.. and many climbs out side - that the holds aren't necessarily hugely apart from eachother - but they are incredibly hard to hold/let a lone move from.. this is what its always seemed like outside for me!!
And before anyone gets on about height etc being the main sticking point for me - i'm not short - i'm not tall.. just good ol mr average!!
And in reply to the person who said the holds are smooth so therefore don't shed as much skin.. my hands have never hurt more from a session there..
and yes i used the comp wall - not the featured wall - that was way too crowded with some beginners comp thing!
And before anyone gets on about height etc being the main sticking point for me - i'm not short - i'm not tall.. just good ol mr average!!
And in reply to the person who said the holds are smooth so therefore don't shed as much skin.. my hands have never hurt more from a session there..
and yes i used the comp wall - not the featured wall - that was way too crowded with some beginners comp thing!
In reply to Adam Lincoln: £15! Ouch! Don't go there often, bit further away & pricey, but that might just put me off..hmmm great place, though...
In reply to boulderingwannabe:
Just kind of a reality check - this thread is sounding a little unfair to the Westway. I travel a lot for work and have used gyms all over the place (moscow, ny, boston, amsterdam, paris, barca, rome, kiev, and uk). All the London walls are above average and in my view, since the new bouldering wall the Westway is one of the best generalist gyms I have ever used (even if it doesn't actually have walls or, er, central heat). System board, campus, circuit room, long steep routes plus slab, flat plywood and featured, regular setter rotation - and a friendly vibe. Frankly it doesn't get a whole lot better for an all-around gym. I love the Arch setting creativity and the Castle scene and the old school Mile End style but the fact is the Westway is a very strong gym by any reasonable standard. I've been away for a while and I really miss it!
Just kind of a reality check - this thread is sounding a little unfair to the Westway. I travel a lot for work and have used gyms all over the place (moscow, ny, boston, amsterdam, paris, barca, rome, kiev, and uk). All the London walls are above average and in my view, since the new bouldering wall the Westway is one of the best generalist gyms I have ever used (even if it doesn't actually have walls or, er, central heat). System board, campus, circuit room, long steep routes plus slab, flat plywood and featured, regular setter rotation - and a friendly vibe. Frankly it doesn't get a whole lot better for an all-around gym. I love the Arch setting creativity and the Castle scene and the old school Mile End style but the fact is the Westway is a very strong gym by any reasonable standard. I've been away for a while and I really miss it!
In reply to boulderingwannabe:
Well, as I mentioned above, pretty sure Steve McClure ( http://www.steve-mcclure.com/setting ) set the bouldering wall this month - and he's quite small. Usually if the holds are well spaced the moves repay good footwork and technique rather than pure crimp strength - which is what I don't like at some other walls.
I guess to each their own: I think Westway does a pretty good job.
Well, as I mentioned above, pretty sure Steve McClure ( http://www.steve-mcclure.com/setting ) set the bouldering wall this month - and he's quite small. Usually if the holds are well spaced the moves repay good footwork and technique rather than pure crimp strength - which is what I don't like at some other walls.
I guess to each their own: I think Westway does a pretty good job.
In reply to boulderingwannabe: I like the place alot but i also have reservations...
The thing is I do not believe about the WWgrades compare with other walls because the styles are different.Its taken myself a year to get this point!
Its only a 12 m wall.
How do you train other longer forms of endurance?
The best potential for this is the backroom which sometimes fullfills the potential but in my eyes often does'nt.
In this back room:
1.I would get 4-5 circuits reguarly on that wall(6c+ to 8b+?!)-in fact have a rolling program of circuit setting not just by usual suspects and not just at the main problem setting times.
2.it would be good to see that slab converted into a roof perhaps?
3.Have the emphasis on both rt setters AND boulderers perhaps collaborating with this circiut setting.
4.Help users by indicating bench mark rts
5. maybe have more training style rts where the moves are not so cruxy-you can fail at the chains due to build through the whole rt not have yet another labourious feet follow hands style crux which may exist alot about 7b/c and up outdoors but it hardly helps the 'i need to learn good engrams posse'-so i can take these outdoors
6. More footholds on the rts!(maybe poorer handholds?)
The thing is I do not believe about the WWgrades compare with other walls because the styles are different.Its taken myself a year to get this point!
Its only a 12 m wall.
How do you train other longer forms of endurance?
The best potential for this is the backroom which sometimes fullfills the potential but in my eyes often does'nt.
In this back room:
1.I would get 4-5 circuits reguarly on that wall(6c+ to 8b+?!)-in fact have a rolling program of circuit setting not just by usual suspects and not just at the main problem setting times.
2.it would be good to see that slab converted into a roof perhaps?
3.Have the emphasis on both rt setters AND boulderers perhaps collaborating with this circiut setting.
4.Help users by indicating bench mark rts
5. maybe have more training style rts where the moves are not so cruxy-you can fail at the chains due to build through the whole rt not have yet another labourious feet follow hands style crux which may exist alot about 7b/c and up outdoors but it hardly helps the 'i need to learn good engrams posse'-so i can take these outdoors
6. More footholds on the rts!(maybe poorer handholds?)
In reply to boulderingwannabe:
There is no perfect wall, but the Westway is much better than most. Equally however there are no perfect customers... The room at the back has suffered from extreme testosterone fuelled chalking since it opened. That might be ok if it was very humid and enclosed like The Arch, but there are two enormous garage doors and fresh air coming in from the mesh in the ceiling.
If I had a pound for every time someone chalked up unnecessarily and had to give back twenty for every time someone bothered to clean their shoes, I'd still be a millionaire. It's a pity that the routes there always felt a grade harder two days after they had been set because of the instant coating of chalk.
> (In reply to fishy1) Thanks for the comments.. the friction paint is very 'frictiony' on the comp wall slabby bit.. but then the holds have no friction what so ever due to the inch thick chalk and rubber mix on them...
There is no perfect wall, but the Westway is much better than most. Equally however there are no perfect customers... The room at the back has suffered from extreme testosterone fuelled chalking since it opened. That might be ok if it was very humid and enclosed like The Arch, but there are two enormous garage doors and fresh air coming in from the mesh in the ceiling.
If I had a pound for every time someone chalked up unnecessarily and had to give back twenty for every time someone bothered to clean their shoes, I'd still be a millionaire. It's a pity that the routes there always felt a grade harder two days after they had been set because of the instant coating of chalk.
In reply to i.munro:
Yeah, they do (unless its gone AWOL in the past week - you can imagine how valuable a brush on a stick is to thieves )
> (In reply to gabriel_m)
>
> Interesting comment. Do they not have brushes-on-sticks ?
>
> Interesting comment. Do they not have brushes-on-sticks ?
Yeah, they do (unless its gone AWOL in the past week - you can imagine how valuable a brush on a stick is to thieves )
In reply to boulderingwannabe:
wow... i said exactly the same thing to a friend of mine today... i've never really liked the westway.. and my last visit i'm afraid was probably the final nail in the "trying to like it" coffin... as u rightly said - the harder routes just seemed to be jugs further apart.. no real originality at all, and nothing like i've ever really climbed outside, or at other walls...
wow... i said exactly the same thing to a friend of mine today... i've never really liked the westway.. and my last visit i'm afraid was probably the final nail in the "trying to like it" coffin... as u rightly said - the harder routes just seemed to be jugs further apart.. no real originality at all, and nothing like i've ever really climbed outside, or at other walls...
In reply to stow:
yes and things like the system board seem to get very little use so good to see they've gone to the trouble of putting one in....even if for the benefit of a few....now if the castle would like to do the same i'd be very happy.
> (In reply to boulderingwannabe)
>
> System board, campus, circuit room, long steep routes plus slab, flat plywood and featured, regular setter rotation - and a friendly vibe. Frankly it doesn't get a whole lot better for an all-around gym.
>
> System board, campus, circuit room, long steep routes plus slab, flat plywood and featured, regular setter rotation - and a friendly vibe. Frankly it doesn't get a whole lot better for an all-around gym.
yes and things like the system board seem to get very little use so good to see they've gone to the trouble of putting one in....even if for the benefit of a few....now if the castle would like to do the same i'd be very happy.
I made my first visit recently, usually end up at the arch or castle.
Only been once but its my favourite wall in london, its the best all rounder for me. The arch wins hands down for problems but Westway is the best all rounder.
Much better vibe than the Castle for me, which i have never liked. Lead routes are the best ive been to.
Only been once but its my favourite wall in london, its the best all rounder for me. The arch wins hands down for problems but Westway is the best all rounder.
Much better vibe than the Castle for me, which i have never liked. Lead routes are the best ive been to.
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