UKC

performance of DMM Terminator chisel monopoints

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Mark Phillips 10 Dec 2009
I've not heard or read any reports on these. Anyone any knowledge of their actual performance whilst mixed climbing?
 Jamie B 10 Dec 2009
In reply to Mark Phillips:

I'm sure somebody told me they were ace on mixed but if you ended up on ice things got quite scary!
 AlH 10 Dec 2009
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: Aye, that was me!. I first used them on Menage a Trois and thought they were great but when I followed a friend up a Direct variation on Direct Route on Bidean we hit a very thinly iced slab...... never again. I just use one of the regular points as a mono now- find that more versatile. Alternatively sometimes a tatty old pair of G12s works even better!
Al
 John Workman 10 Dec 2009
In reply to Mark Phillips:
Hi Mark. Winter's here and I'm amnaging to get out a bit.
I use the Terminator chisel points on mixed. I like them because they are shorter than the ice points and so get you closer to the footholds? They aren't quite as secure on ice but still OK. I used them when you and I? did Raw Egg? Butress. They were OK on that first water ice pitch [not that steep though] and an advantage I think on that top tricky pitch.
I've used them for a few years now.
If I'm planning an ice route or one with ice pitches I switch over [before heading out, mind you!]

John
 Jamie B 10 Dec 2009
In reply to AlH:

Wish I'd had a pair of tatty G12s that day on Icicle Gully; G14s in mono mode really werent working at all on cruddy snow-ice!
 Erik B 10 Dec 2009
In reply to Mark Phillips: rubbish, dont use them
Mark Phillips 10 Dec 2009
In reply to Erik B: Not a good concencus so far then. I actually have a pair that I've used in chisel mode, on moderate mixed stuff (nothing above IV), but was always inclined to think that the secodary points projected too far out, so making the chisel contact uncertain or insecure. Due to that, I've never felt convinced of their reliability, even with the chisel set as far out as it will go.
Need more opinions before I try them again. Anyone?
Mark Phillips 10 Dec 2009
In reply to Mark Phillips: So, not many people have used these then?
 alpine69 10 Dec 2009
In reply to Mark Phillips: hello you , good cold snap on its way , are you up for selection
Mark Phillips 10 Dec 2009
In reply to alpine69: ..up for selection...? Sounds ominous..or not!
 jaggy bunnet 10 Dec 2009
In reply to Mark Phillips:
> I've not heard or read any reports on these. Anyone any knowledge of their actual performance whilst mixed climbing?

ive used them on ice routes in cogne,the ben,and briancon for example. i find them more than adequate for steep stuff and just dandy for mixed.dont let people put you off ,they are heavy but very capable. i once went toe to toe with a fella in the c.i.c about using the chisels,he tried telling me they werent up to it when he had never climbed in them.
 jaggy bunnet 10 Dec 2009
In reply to jaggy bunnet:
> (In reply to Mark Phillips)
> [...]
>
> ive used them on ice routes in cogne,the ben,and briancon for example. i find them more than adequate for steep stuff and just dandy for mixed.dont let people put you off ,they are heavy but very capable. i once went toe to toe with a fella in the c.i.c about using the chisels,he tried telling me they werent up to it when he had never climbed in them.

in fact , if you contact me direct,i will talk you through my opinion more thoroughly.
 ross 13 Dec 2009
In reply to Mark Phillips: Hi Mark, I've not used these but 2 of my partners always use them on mixed and swear by them. They have used them so much that they are on their second set now. They are usually climbing grade VII.

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