UKC

Metolius Long Draws

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 Alex Thompson 18 Dec 2009
Anyone seen these? Do they not use long slings tripled up in the States?
Serpico 18 Dec 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson:
> Do they not use long slings tripled up in the States?

No. Prior to the introduction of Metolius Long Draws any American climber faced with a piece that needed a long extension would either have to abseil off and abandon the gear, or downclimb stripping the pitch as they went.
It's hoped that these new draws will open up many previously unprotectable pitches.

OP Alex Thompson 19 Dec 2009
In reply to Serpico:
Seriously, can you see any benefit to these draws over using a sling & 2 wiregates? The demonstration video didn't even show the tripled up extendor trick.
 Dan Lane 19 Dec 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson:

I think they are completely pointless, nothing wrong with a pair of snapgates and a dounbled or trippled sling.

Just another gimmick thats is not all that practical.
Serpico 19 Dec 2009
In reply to dan lane:
There speaks the voice of experience.
 Dan Lane 19 Dec 2009
In reply to Serpico:

Thats only my opinion of course.
 jkarran 19 Dec 2009
In reply to Serpico:

LOL. Did someone get out the wrong side of bed today

jk
 Morgan Woods 19 Dec 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson:
> (In reply to Serpico)
> Seriously,

i thought he was being serious.
 stewieatb 19 Dec 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson:

Only thing i can think is that the rope biner is properly captive, which is useful for sport climbers who need to clip in a hurry. Obviously, unlike a 60cm sling, they don't have the flexibility of being used for other stuff; threads, spikes, chockstones. Also they can't be shortened as easily into 20cm draws, and racking them long will be a collosal pain in the arse.
 CragX Shop 19 Dec 2009
In reply to stewieatb:
> (In reply to Alex Thompson)
> Also they can't be shortened as easily into 20cm draws,

Which is a shame. The only thing stopping them from being an excellent sling darw is that the ends are too tight to spin round when you pull the tripled sling through.
I actually suggested to Metolius that looseing the captive end slightly would be a good idea but apparently they didn't see the point. They didn't envisage anyone using them in a shortened state. It seems that slingdraws are a euro thing.
Iain

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