In reply to teflonpete: im going to try and make this realistic and specific...
complete one of the following before winter / bouldering focus is over:
Bus Stop, Jerry's Roof or Left Wall High
if that happens sooner rather than later then i'll look at:
Lou Ferrino and / or whichever version of Cave Life gets V10
will save Font 8a for winter 10/11
finish unfinished business on Over the Moon Direct at LPT and quickly (i hope) nail Mussel Beach
i want to do 8a+ but our grades are out so much (or i just cant climb UK sport) that im not sure i can muster the effort whilst i know theres stamina routes apenty awaiting overseas. if i do make it abroad (Ceuse or Siurana i guess) then id aim to RP 8a quickly (Anabolica, though i doubt this would be quick, if in Siurana), get on 8a+ that suited me and onsight proper 7b+ rather than pretend Kalymnos 7b+. 7b onsight in the UK would be a nice step too (probably not at Pen Trwyn due to style but maybe Kilnsey if im lucky). id like to add a harder slate route to my CV so maybe The Dark Half.
as for trad id like to be less reluctant to try certain routes (i.e. the wind is fractionally blowing from the wrong direction today so i better not have a go). specifically id like to get on:
Right Wall
Run Fast Run Free
Chain Gang
Flashdance
The Minotaur
Get Some In
Barbarella
Ride the Wild Surf
Blue Peter
The Axe
more generally: multi-pitch at Gogarth on the main cliff, climb on North Stack too, get up to Cloggy and do some of the E2s and E3s, have a first trip to Clogwyn yr Eryr (Clonus etc), get some routes with UK 6b done, try Cockblock if im feeling confident and, on the same basis, maybe get on Pretty Girls Makes Graves and / or other better-protected E6s
that should keep me busy...