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What are your ambitions for next year?
Are you going to make the effort to transfer some of those classic routes from your "to do" list on to your logbook and if so, what are they?
Are you going to make the effort to transfer some of those classic routes from your "to do" list on to your logbook and if so, what are they?
In reply to teflonpete:
Left Wall/Cenotaph Corner/Cemetery Gates as I've never been to the Cromlech.
Moon Walk and The Brush Off on the grit because I said I'd do them last year.
More jamming cracks as thats my single biggest weakness. (Apart from being overweight, out of shape, tiny cajones, weak as a kitten and lazy)
Mousetrap/Red Wall because they look amazing and at the moment I've got loads of love for sea cliffs.
Another visit to the Lleyn for Full Sail, Path to Rome, Scissors and Byzantium.
Get strong enough to warrant going back to High Tor and climbing everything!
7a on bolts, hopefully before going to The Verdon.
Basically get stronger, climb more and enjoy myself.
Oh yeah and quit my job because it bores me and really gets in the way!
Left Wall/Cenotaph Corner/Cemetery Gates as I've never been to the Cromlech.
Moon Walk and The Brush Off on the grit because I said I'd do them last year.
More jamming cracks as thats my single biggest weakness. (Apart from being overweight, out of shape, tiny cajones, weak as a kitten and lazy)
Mousetrap/Red Wall because they look amazing and at the moment I've got loads of love for sea cliffs.
Another visit to the Lleyn for Full Sail, Path to Rome, Scissors and Byzantium.
Get strong enough to warrant going back to High Tor and climbing everything!
7a on bolts, hopefully before going to The Verdon.
Basically get stronger, climb more and enjoy myself.
Oh yeah and quit my job because it bores me and really gets in the way!
In reply to metal arms:
Started again after a 20 year break. This time I have a 15 year old son as partner. We've been climing indoors so far so I want to transfer that to outdoors. Probably sport intially, maybe trad later. I'm looking at going to Spain around Easter.
I also intend to climb Kirkby Wall at Malham, which is the site of my accident in 1987, but maybe I won't try to onsite solo it this time
Started again after a 20 year break. This time I have a 15 year old son as partner. We've been climing indoors so far so I want to transfer that to outdoors. Probably sport intially, maybe trad later. I'm looking at going to Spain around Easter.
I also intend to climb Kirkby Wall at Malham, which is the site of my accident in 1987, but maybe I won't try to onsite solo it this time
In reply to teflonpete:
After my injury setting me back in the last summer, this year my aim is to be regularly and comfortably climbing HVS and onsighting E1 by the end of the summer. I'd also like to have a handful of Gogarth routes ticked off.
After my injury setting me back in the last summer, this year my aim is to be regularly and comfortably climbing HVS and onsighting E1 by the end of the summer. I'd also like to have a handful of Gogarth routes ticked off.
In reply to teflonpete:
UK Trad - Onsight Right Wall, Positron, and some of the E5's in Huntsmans.
Uk Sport - Onsight/Flash 7b+ on crimpy lime (not my style), Rp 8a?
Foreign Sport - Onsight 7b+/c at ceuse.
And not let my fricking elbow stop me climbing again!
UK Trad - Onsight Right Wall, Positron, and some of the E5's in Huntsmans.
Uk Sport - Onsight/Flash 7b+ on crimpy lime (not my style), Rp 8a?
Foreign Sport - Onsight 7b+/c at ceuse.
And not let my fricking elbow stop me climbing again!
In reply to teflonpete:
that crappy WI3 in Rjukan i broke my finger on last year
tower ridge
NaddleGrat all of it including Durrienhorn
Taschhorn
on rock whatever i get out and offer myself up too i hope to get up not fussy
that crappy WI3 in Rjukan i broke my finger on last year
tower ridge
NaddleGrat all of it including Durrienhorn
Taschhorn
on rock whatever i get out and offer myself up too i hope to get up not fussy
In reply to teflonpete: To push into the E Grades! Plus I want to lead dreaming of white horses at Gogarth as I have only seconded it years ago!
In reply to JezH:
Sounds very familiar!
I got a few HVS and one E1 onsight this year but want to consolidate at the grades.
I definitely want to tick Left and Right Unconquerable next year.
It'll be mainly grit for me but I hope to get a good route or two done on the Etive Slabs and would like to have a few days on Lundy and do Satan's Slip on the Devil's Slide.
> (In reply to teflonpete)
> this year my aim is to be regularly and comfortably climbing HVS and onsighting E1 by the end of the summer.
> this year my aim is to be regularly and comfortably climbing HVS and onsighting E1 by the end of the summer.
Sounds very familiar!
I got a few HVS and one E1 onsight this year but want to consolidate at the grades.
I definitely want to tick Left and Right Unconquerable next year.
It'll be mainly grit for me but I hope to get a good route or two done on the Etive Slabs and would like to have a few days on Lundy and do Satan's Slip on the Devil's Slide.
In reply to teflonpete:
Loads of stuff that I'd like to do, god knows what I'll actually get done. Currently I'm looking forward with a fair dose of trepidation to a couple of trips up to Scotland for some winter climbing/mountaineering. Another step along the line to the alps!
I'm really hoping I'll get to do a decent amount of long multipitch routes up in North Wales. I've got my eye on a few classics in the Snowdon area, but I'm really psyched to get climbing in the Meirionnydd area. There's some lovely looking climbs there, proper mountain adventures. Also it's doable in a day from home, no need to take the whole weekend up. Near to home, I'm hoping to get on some climbs at the Ogmore sea cliffs, I'm keen to do Exposure Expolsion.
I'd also really like to get a weekends climbing in the Roaches. I've my eye on a few uber-classics there. Specifically Sloth and Valkyrie. It's dead near family as well so I can kill two birds with one stone there.
Grade wise I'd like to be pushing the high 6s/early 7s for sport by the end of the year. I'd be happy to be leading HVS by the end of the year, but E1 is the goal.
Having said all that I'll settle for doing lots of climbing and not getting injured!
Loads of stuff that I'd like to do, god knows what I'll actually get done. Currently I'm looking forward with a fair dose of trepidation to a couple of trips up to Scotland for some winter climbing/mountaineering. Another step along the line to the alps!
I'm really hoping I'll get to do a decent amount of long multipitch routes up in North Wales. I've got my eye on a few classics in the Snowdon area, but I'm really psyched to get climbing in the Meirionnydd area. There's some lovely looking climbs there, proper mountain adventures. Also it's doable in a day from home, no need to take the whole weekend up. Near to home, I'm hoping to get on some climbs at the Ogmore sea cliffs, I'm keen to do Exposure Expolsion.
I'd also really like to get a weekends climbing in the Roaches. I've my eye on a few uber-classics there. Specifically Sloth and Valkyrie. It's dead near family as well so I can kill two birds with one stone there.
Grade wise I'd like to be pushing the high 6s/early 7s for sport by the end of the year. I'd be happy to be leading HVS by the end of the year, but E1 is the goal.
Having said all that I'll settle for doing lots of climbing and not getting injured!
In reply to mattrm:
Exactly (your last paragraph)... I want to stay injury free so I can realise my ambitions!
Exactly (your last paragraph)... I want to stay injury free so I can realise my ambitions!
In reply to teflonpete: climb a lot.. and then climb some more.. grade wise.. would love to break the 8a bouldering barrier.. got close this year.. but perhaps next year is my year...
In reply to teflonpete:
The Verger - Blackcurch
Mars - Black Zawn
Mercury - Carn Gowla
Eroica - Pentire
Freeborn Man - Fisherman's Ledge
Some stuff on chalk
As much in Scotland, summer and winter as possible.
Unfortunately quite similar to last years aims iirc.
The Verger - Blackcurch
Mars - Black Zawn
Mercury - Carn Gowla
Eroica - Pentire
Freeborn Man - Fisherman's Ledge
Some stuff on chalk
As much in Scotland, summer and winter as possible.
Unfortunately quite similar to last years aims iirc.
In reply to teflonpete:
My goals for next year are:
1. Become comfortable leading Grade IV ice, so I can enjoy routes such as Green Gully, Comb Gully, No.6 Gully, etc.
2. Make more progress on Grade IV mixed as there are a few routes I wish to do in this bracket as well.
3. In terms of Alpine routes, I hope to climb more 4000m peaks, preferably a few of the moderate icy North Faces.
4. Don't really have any ambitions for trad climbing, except to do more of it.
My goals for next year are:
1. Become comfortable leading Grade IV ice, so I can enjoy routes such as Green Gully, Comb Gully, No.6 Gully, etc.
2. Make more progress on Grade IV mixed as there are a few routes I wish to do in this bracket as well.
3. In terms of Alpine routes, I hope to climb more 4000m peaks, preferably a few of the moderate icy North Faces.
4. Don't really have any ambitions for trad climbing, except to do more of it.
In reply to teflonpete:
To finally top rope that 6a indoor and lead one too by Spring.
Head up north to do a 5 day learn to lead course at Glenmore, if I can afford it, then get out as much as is possible on Scottish rock this summer and hopefully a trip to the Lakes too, but my pal down there is having a baby in June!
To finally top rope that 6a indoor and lead one too by Spring.
Head up north to do a 5 day learn to lead course at Glenmore, if I can afford it, then get out as much as is possible on Scottish rock this summer and hopefully a trip to the Lakes too, but my pal down there is having a baby in June!
In reply to teflonpete:
Definitely The Rasp and Quietus, and a return trip to Gogarth for Conrete Chimney and the correct line of Dream. And a go at Winter climbing for the first time. And everything else!
Definitely The Rasp and Quietus, and a return trip to Gogarth for Conrete Chimney and the correct line of Dream. And a go at Winter climbing for the first time. And everything else!
In reply to gribble:
Oooh, The Rasp. I wandered over to have a look at Higgar a couple of weeks ago. I might have a go at the File and even Surform later next year but I think The Rasp is still out of my league at the moment.
Good luck with it, and Quietus.
Oooh, The Rasp. I wandered over to have a look at Higgar a couple of weeks ago. I might have a go at the File and even Surform later next year but I think The Rasp is still out of my league at the moment.
Good luck with it, and Quietus.
In reply to teflonpete:
Just too add, I'd like to give chalk a go as well. Other places I'd like to climb at this year are, Pembroke and Gogarth.
Just too add, I'd like to give chalk a go as well. Other places I'd like to climb at this year are, Pembroke and Gogarth.
In reply to teflonpete: T crack!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In reply to teflonpete:
I have a habit of aiming to achieve specific objectives then beasting myself until I do achieve them, or tearingmyself apart if I don't.
I have learned over the last year that this is not healthy.
So, my intentions are a bit broader:
1) train at the wall twice a week
2) pick off say 5 alpine classics and maybe a test piece
3) go to Chile and hopefully do sme great routes and may a FA
4) Race my road and mtb
5) up my fell running and racing
The msain theme is too as much as I can and have as much fun as I can and it does not matter if I am on an E2 a VI or Gillercombe Buttress for the 7th time in my life.
and anyone who wants to join me is welcome to come along...
I have a habit of aiming to achieve specific objectives then beasting myself until I do achieve them, or tearingmyself apart if I don't.
I have learned over the last year that this is not healthy.
So, my intentions are a bit broader:
1) train at the wall twice a week
2) pick off say 5 alpine classics and maybe a test piece
3) go to Chile and hopefully do sme great routes and may a FA
4) Race my road and mtb
5) up my fell running and racing
The msain theme is too as much as I can and have as much fun as I can and it does not matter if I am on an E2 a VI or Gillercombe Buttress for the 7th time in my life.
and anyone who wants to join me is welcome to come along...
In reply to teflonpete: my main goal is to onsight E4 comfortably by the end of the year, although a dream would be to onsight right wall, but we will see about that one!! apart from that, would love to do re wall and some classic gogarth E3's, the moon stands out. and do dreadnought at the old redoubt.
would like to visit pembroke and lundy fo' sho' and just have loads of fun like this year really
good luck to everyone in their quest for their goals
would like to visit pembroke and lundy fo' sho' and just have loads of fun like this year really
good luck to everyone in their quest for their goals
Gaia, Rubicon, Sardine, London wall, The simpering savage, The braille trail, Life assurance, Deliverance, The storm, Brad pitt and anything else I have time for. :P And GET STRONGER AND BETTER.
In reply to teflonpete:
Climb a few classic F7As - in the Peak District - such as Satin, Technical Master (only F6C) and a few others.
Also I would like to improve my footwork hugely and hopefully get some trad and sport done!
James
Climb a few classic F7As - in the Peak District - such as Satin, Technical Master (only F6C) and a few others.
Also I would like to improve my footwork hugely and hopefully get some trad and sport done!
James
In reply to teflonpete:
Get out climbing in the UK at least as many times as I did this year (I just about got my target of 52 days for this year, not counting the current Scottish trip). I might be able to do more but that depends on the weather... Not all of these days will necessarily be fantastic days out but it's the getting out there that counts, and with quantity comes some quality!
Do more sea cliff climbing - Gogarth, Pembroke, Lundy, Torbay.
Do more mountain multipitch, eg Cloggy.
Climb on some crags I've not been to before.
Find a keen and reliable Alpine partner and do some classic routes in the Alps which are a bit more challenging than the stuff I've done so far (let me know if interested!).
Do some winter routes in Wales and Scotland.
Have enjoyable ice climbing and ski touring trips.
Get out climbing in the UK at least as many times as I did this year (I just about got my target of 52 days for this year, not counting the current Scottish trip). I might be able to do more but that depends on the weather... Not all of these days will necessarily be fantastic days out but it's the getting out there that counts, and with quantity comes some quality!
Do more sea cliff climbing - Gogarth, Pembroke, Lundy, Torbay.
Do more mountain multipitch, eg Cloggy.
Climb on some crags I've not been to before.
Find a keen and reliable Alpine partner and do some classic routes in the Alps which are a bit more challenging than the stuff I've done so far (let me know if interested!).
Do some winter routes in Wales and Scotland.
Have enjoyable ice climbing and ski touring trips.
In reply to teflonpete:
General goals:
Get steady at E3
Proper V8 tick
Learn to redpoint effectively
Specific routes (likely > pipedream):
Left Wall
Sloth
Quartz Icicle
NTBTA
Comes the Dervish
Track of the Cat
Path to Rome
Popcorn Party
Comedy
Left Wall (Ground up)
High Noon
Sulky Little Boys
That should keep me busy
jk
General goals:
Get steady at E3
Proper V8 tick
Learn to redpoint effectively
Specific routes (likely > pipedream):
Left Wall
Sloth
Quartz Icicle
NTBTA
Comes the Dervish
Track of the Cat
Path to Rome
Popcorn Party
Comedy
Left Wall (Ground up)
High Noon
Sulky Little Boys
That should keep me busy
jk
In reply to teflonpete:
Basically I'd like to do all this stuff I wanted to do this year but didn't.
High on the list are Resurrection, The Axe and generally more tradding in Wales, although I'd also like to tick Tin Of.
Basically I'd like to do all this stuff I wanted to do this year but didn't.
High on the list are Resurrection, The Axe and generally more tradding in Wales, although I'd also like to tick Tin Of.
In reply to teflonpete: 1) not get injured
2) visit Northumberland, North Wales, Pembroke and Etive Slabs
3) Lead winter V
4) onsight E4 by September
5) redpoint a sport route
Get more done off my wishlist
2) visit Northumberland, North Wales, Pembroke and Etive Slabs
3) Lead winter V
4) onsight E4 by September
5) redpoint a sport route
Get more done off my wishlist
In reply to teflonpete:
Climb lots.
Lead Quietus and Shrike are the 2 routes I really want to do this year, Who knows wether they will happen or not.
So aslong as I am climbing lots I will be happy
Climb lots.
Lead Quietus and Shrike are the 2 routes I really want to do this year, Who knows wether they will happen or not.
So aslong as I am climbing lots I will be happy
In reply to teflonpete:
I climb the Moon and a few E3s... see how my finger goes.
It would be cool to have a few trip up to Scotland. Pretty keen for Minus 2 Gully, Fallout Corner, Albatross and pretty much anything I havn't done.
Do more and more at Gogarth. Big Groove at Main Cliff would be mint.
Onsight and extreme rock trip.
Get mega fit.
Survive my summer plans in Pakistan.
If all goes to plan I'll be one happy chappy.
I climb the Moon and a few E3s... see how my finger goes.
It would be cool to have a few trip up to Scotland. Pretty keen for Minus 2 Gully, Fallout Corner, Albatross and pretty much anything I havn't done.
Do more and more at Gogarth. Big Groove at Main Cliff would be mint.
Onsight and extreme rock trip.
Get mega fit.
Survive my summer plans in Pakistan.
If all goes to plan I'll be one happy chappy.
In reply to teflonpete:
The Bonatti route on the Grand Capucin, Fiesta de Los Biceps in Riglos, Rank Xerox on that big face in the Ecrins (forget the name) and Path to Rome, Lleyn peninsula.
The Bonatti route on the Grand Capucin, Fiesta de Los Biceps in Riglos, Rank Xerox on that big face in the Ecrins (forget the name) and Path to Rome, Lleyn peninsula.
I like these threads cos you can look back on them in a years time.
For 2010, a couple of trips to the SW taking in the picks of the crags at HVS-E2 at places like Vicarage, Marsland, Cornakey, oh and Out of the Blue at Sharpnose will not get rained off again. Carn Gowla too for Mercury and Rainbow Games. Also Des Row at Bosigran if I make it that far west and I find the necessary bottle.
North Wales trips will tick Superdirect, The Grooves, Dervish and end my neglect of Gogarth main cliff. Would like to visit Llanymanch (sp) for routes on the Black Wall too.
Lucky Strike, Space Cadet and some more at Mother Careys in Pembroke.
Grit's most wanted incl Regent St, Time for tea, Fern Hill, 5 finger exercise, the rasp. Might try and get motivated for a first e4 onsight, perhaps Jetrunner or Moon Walk if I'm feeling suitably psyched. Sirplum will get done too.
All of that, and 2010 will be my best year ever!
For 2010, a couple of trips to the SW taking in the picks of the crags at HVS-E2 at places like Vicarage, Marsland, Cornakey, oh and Out of the Blue at Sharpnose will not get rained off again. Carn Gowla too for Mercury and Rainbow Games. Also Des Row at Bosigran if I make it that far west and I find the necessary bottle.
North Wales trips will tick Superdirect, The Grooves, Dervish and end my neglect of Gogarth main cliff. Would like to visit Llanymanch (sp) for routes on the Black Wall too.
Lucky Strike, Space Cadet and some more at Mother Careys in Pembroke.
Grit's most wanted incl Regent St, Time for tea, Fern Hill, 5 finger exercise, the rasp. Might try and get motivated for a first e4 onsight, perhaps Jetrunner or Moon Walk if I'm feeling suitably psyched. Sirplum will get done too.
All of that, and 2010 will be my best year ever!
In reply to teflonpete:
Scavenger, Cemetary Gates, Grey Panther, Vulcan Wall, Gob, Formula One, Eagle Front, spend a day climbing the classic cracks of Hen Cloud, climb something on Cloggy, go to Fairhead, Valkyrie, Noah's Warning/Cobweb Crack, The Nose of Sgurr An Fhidleir), The Nightw*tch, climb more in Northumberland, climb more in the North York Moors, Ricochet Wall, Bull's Crack, Samarkand, Aladdinsane, Scratch Arete, Mur Y Niwl, Croton Oil, Great Crack, The Crack, Engineer's Slabs, Mango, Centurion, Whither Weather, Anthrax Flake...
Scavenger, Cemetary Gates, Grey Panther, Vulcan Wall, Gob, Formula One, Eagle Front, spend a day climbing the classic cracks of Hen Cloud, climb something on Cloggy, go to Fairhead, Valkyrie, Noah's Warning/Cobweb Crack, The Nose of Sgurr An Fhidleir), The Nightw*tch, climb more in Northumberland, climb more in the North York Moors, Ricochet Wall, Bull's Crack, Samarkand, Aladdinsane, Scratch Arete, Mur Y Niwl, Croton Oil, Great Crack, The Crack, Engineer's Slabs, Mango, Centurion, Whither Weather, Anthrax Flake...
In reply to Owen W-G:
Hey Owen.
As someone who, like you appear to, makes regular trips to climb in the Southwest, it's interesting to see some of your ambitions for this year. So good luck with that lot, many of them mirror my own.
Let me know if you find Mercury dry, so I can get down there and have a go myself whilst it's 'in'!
Have fun, see you out west
Cheers,
Tom
Hey Owen.
As someone who, like you appear to, makes regular trips to climb in the Southwest, it's interesting to see some of your ambitions for this year. So good luck with that lot, many of them mirror my own.
Let me know if you find Mercury dry, so I can get down there and have a go myself whilst it's 'in'!
Have fun, see you out west
Cheers,
Tom
In reply to teflonpete: Have fun and stay safe ( not 2 safe though ) oh and more routes in wales ..
In reply to teflonpete:
what to do alot more in Llanberris pass, left wall being one of them, also looking to climb more at gogarth , only climbed at the st helen so far !!! Would perhaps like to do a couple of e4's, although short ones on grit , (don't have the stamina for the longer ones !), Main ambition- climb more !
what to do alot more in Llanberris pass, left wall being one of them, also looking to climb more at gogarth , only climbed at the st helen so far !!! Would perhaps like to do a couple of e4's, although short ones on grit , (don't have the stamina for the longer ones !), Main ambition- climb more !
In reply to teflonpete:
To start climbing again after a shoulder op in July.
The way things are going, it might be simple snow gullies on Monday 4th January.
To start climbing again after a shoulder op in July.
The way things are going, it might be simple snow gullies on Monday 4th January.
In reply to teflonpete:
To enjoy it again (although I achieved this last Sunday).
And after 16 years of climbing, a 7b redpoint would be nice.
To enjoy it again (although I achieved this last Sunday).
And after 16 years of climbing, a 7b redpoint would be nice.
In reply to teflonpete:
The Shield (sans hammer)
The Cassin ridge
Ski Touring in Yellowstone (may end up being 2011 now tho)
The Shield (sans hammer)
The Cassin ridge
Ski Touring in Yellowstone (may end up being 2011 now tho)
In reply to teflonpete: A few to get done before June are:
Zoolook, Overnite Sensation and Climb of the Century (all at Malham), Grooved Arete (Kilnsey) and boulder 7B+. If I get them all done I can relax and change nappies for the rest of the year...
Andy F
Zoolook, Overnite Sensation and Climb of the Century (all at Malham), Grooved Arete (Kilnsey) and boulder 7B+. If I get them all done I can relax and change nappies for the rest of the year...
Andy F
In reply to teflonpete: my ambition is single, get my back side up organ grinder ( shorn cliff, lower why valley). plus i want to nail all the classic VS's in the lower wye valley e.g cadillac, questor, fibre. though i would quite like to break into the E numbers
In reply to teflonpete: Climb a lot more than this year. the broken leg and dissertation weren't particully helpful with my climbing. After SPA is done in early spring, i want to try and do at least 1 mountain multi pitch a week, and be able to lead VS, and climb III/IV comfortablly.
So not a lot really.
So not a lot really.
In reply to teflonpete:
Redpoint Empire of the Sun & the Lynch, consolidate at 7b/+, go and do some of the big sport routes in Cheddar (esp on Spacehunter Wall).
Go to Swanage and get comfy on the Ruckle. Go back to Pentire and lead the crux on Eroica (2nded it this year). And as always, be confident enough to go and onsight the classic E3s in Pembroke this summer (somehow that one never quite happens).
As always most of that is in the hands of the gods as to how work pans out this year...
Redpoint Empire of the Sun & the Lynch, consolidate at 7b/+, go and do some of the big sport routes in Cheddar (esp on Spacehunter Wall).
Go to Swanage and get comfy on the Ruckle. Go back to Pentire and lead the crux on Eroica (2nded it this year). And as always, be confident enough to go and onsight the classic E3s in Pembroke this summer (somehow that one never quite happens).
As always most of that is in the hands of the gods as to how work pans out this year...
In reply to teflonpete:
Get shoulder operated on and rested and healed.
Do more yoga and cycling
Et voila....get to confident 6a onsighting.
Get shoulder operated on and rested and healed.
Do more yoga and cycling
Et voila....get to confident 6a onsighting.
In reply to teflonpete:
The 'triple 8' and a few 8bs.
Keen for Gaia to be the 1st E8 soon.
Want Revelations, Waddage and Weedkiller Traverse - Chimes link, all 8b.
Tumbleweed as the 1st Font 8a?
Want to O/S or flash E5 and font 7b too.
The 'triple 8' and a few 8bs.
Keen for Gaia to be the 1st E8 soon.
Want Revelations, Waddage and Weedkiller Traverse - Chimes link, all 8b.
Tumbleweed as the 1st Font 8a?
Want to O/S or flash E5 and font 7b too.
In reply to teflonpete: Stay injury free, and just enjoy what I do whether its Diffs or E3s. Plus more winter stuff!
In reply to teflonpete:
I'm going to lose the top-rope and start climbing properly
I'm going to lose the top-rope and start climbing properly
In reply to teflonpete:
1 Multi pitch - any! didnt make enough effort to beat the weather last year
2 6b sport outdoors
3 complete new problem, reverse and top out "sunshower" at Shaftoe crag
4 Trad an E1
1 Multi pitch - any! didnt make enough effort to beat the weather last year
2 6b sport outdoors
3 complete new problem, reverse and top out "sunshower" at Shaftoe crag
4 Trad an E1
In reply to teflonpete: Hopefully I will DO some climbing this year
Injury and general busy-ness meant I didn't do much last year - so would generally like to get fit, get out there and ENJOY a variety of climbing (grit classics, trad mountain, long distance scrambles, esoteric 'gems').
Injury and general busy-ness meant I didn't do much last year - so would generally like to get fit, get out there and ENJOY a variety of climbing (grit classics, trad mountain, long distance scrambles, esoteric 'gems').
In reply to teflonpete:
Visit some new crags and do a trip abroad.
Climb at Cilan and Doris
Boulder Font 7b
Redpoint 3 7c's
Get weight to 11 1/4 stone
Train regularly and carefully to avoid tennis elbow.
Visit some new crags and do a trip abroad.
Climb at Cilan and Doris
Boulder Font 7b
Redpoint 3 7c's
Get weight to 11 1/4 stone
Train regularly and carefully to avoid tennis elbow.
In reply to teflonpete: Climb more, see if I can get a bit stronger, regain some proper fitness and see what happens.
Don't have any specific goals but I do have unfinished business with several routes and there are plenty of inspiring bolted lines around the SW.
Don't have any specific goals but I do have unfinished business with several routes and there are plenty of inspiring bolted lines around the SW.
In reply to andy farnell: how can you not boulder 7b+ if youre ticking Fr 8a+? am confused
In reply to teflonpete:
Tower Ridge in winter, once the powder goes.
Old Man of Stoer in summer
These are both routes I have had epics on in the past and I want to get them off my to do list!
Otherwise, Quartzvein scoop, Smiths Route, The Pause, Spantastic, Magic Crack are all on my tick list but there are plenty more.
Oh, and a trip to Yose for the Shield, Lost Arrow Spire Tip and (hopefully) Snake Dyke :oD
Tower Ridge in winter, once the powder goes.
Old Man of Stoer in summer
These are both routes I have had epics on in the past and I want to get them off my to do list!
Otherwise, Quartzvein scoop, Smiths Route, The Pause, Spantastic, Magic Crack are all on my tick list but there are plenty more.
Oh, and a trip to Yose for the Shield, Lost Arrow Spire Tip and (hopefully) Snake Dyke :oD
In reply to teflonpete:
Fingers crossed 2010 will be a good one. I'd like to:
try to get some easy (II/III) winter routes done in Scotland and the lakes.
rp 7b+ (and if I can do that I might even have thoughts of 7c but lets not get carried away!)
onsight 6c+ and get nicely consolidated at 7a/7a+
another trip to the alps - maybe do some ADs
Lots of routes on the tick list but I'm really looking forward to doing Yosemite Wall this year.
Fingers crossed 2010 will be a good one. I'd like to:
try to get some easy (II/III) winter routes done in Scotland and the lakes.
rp 7b+ (and if I can do that I might even have thoughts of 7c but lets not get carried away!)
onsight 6c+ and get nicely consolidated at 7a/7a+
another trip to the alps - maybe do some ADs
Lots of routes on the tick list but I'm really looking forward to doing Yosemite Wall this year.
In reply to teflonpete:
*Get solid at E6
*Climb some technical routes in the Alps at altitude.
*get good at winter climbing.
*Get solid at E6
*Climb some technical routes in the Alps at altitude.
*get good at winter climbing.
In reply to teflonpete: im going to try and make this realistic and specific...
complete one of the following before winter / bouldering focus is over:
Bus Stop, Jerry's Roof or Left Wall High
if that happens sooner rather than later then i'll look at:
Lou Ferrino and / or whichever version of Cave Life gets V10
will save Font 8a for winter 10/11
finish unfinished business on Over the Moon Direct at LPT and quickly (i hope) nail Mussel Beach
i want to do 8a+ but our grades are out so much (or i just cant climb UK sport) that im not sure i can muster the effort whilst i know theres stamina routes apenty awaiting overseas. if i do make it abroad (Ceuse or Siurana i guess) then id aim to RP 8a quickly (Anabolica, though i doubt this would be quick, if in Siurana), get on 8a+ that suited me and onsight proper 7b+ rather than pretend Kalymnos 7b+. 7b onsight in the UK would be a nice step too (probably not at Pen Trwyn due to style but maybe Kilnsey if im lucky). id like to add a harder slate route to my CV so maybe The Dark Half.
as for trad id like to be less reluctant to try certain routes (i.e. the wind is fractionally blowing from the wrong direction today so i better not have a go). specifically id like to get on:
Right Wall
Run Fast Run Free
Chain Gang
Flashdance
The Minotaur
Get Some In
Barbarella
Ride the Wild Surf
Blue Peter
The Axe
more generally: multi-pitch at Gogarth on the main cliff, climb on North Stack too, get up to Cloggy and do some of the E2s and E3s, have a first trip to Clogwyn yr Eryr (Clonus etc), get some routes with UK 6b done, try Cockblock if im feeling confident and, on the same basis, maybe get on Pretty Girls Makes Graves and / or other better-protected E6s
that should keep me busy...
complete one of the following before winter / bouldering focus is over:
Bus Stop, Jerry's Roof or Left Wall High
if that happens sooner rather than later then i'll look at:
Lou Ferrino and / or whichever version of Cave Life gets V10
will save Font 8a for winter 10/11
finish unfinished business on Over the Moon Direct at LPT and quickly (i hope) nail Mussel Beach
i want to do 8a+ but our grades are out so much (or i just cant climb UK sport) that im not sure i can muster the effort whilst i know theres stamina routes apenty awaiting overseas. if i do make it abroad (Ceuse or Siurana i guess) then id aim to RP 8a quickly (Anabolica, though i doubt this would be quick, if in Siurana), get on 8a+ that suited me and onsight proper 7b+ rather than pretend Kalymnos 7b+. 7b onsight in the UK would be a nice step too (probably not at Pen Trwyn due to style but maybe Kilnsey if im lucky). id like to add a harder slate route to my CV so maybe The Dark Half.
as for trad id like to be less reluctant to try certain routes (i.e. the wind is fractionally blowing from the wrong direction today so i better not have a go). specifically id like to get on:
Right Wall
Run Fast Run Free
Chain Gang
Flashdance
The Minotaur
Get Some In
Barbarella
Ride the Wild Surf
Blue Peter
The Axe
more generally: multi-pitch at Gogarth on the main cliff, climb on North Stack too, get up to Cloggy and do some of the E2s and E3s, have a first trip to Clogwyn yr Eryr (Clonus etc), get some routes with UK 6b done, try Cockblock if im feeling confident and, on the same basis, maybe get on Pretty Girls Makes Graves and / or other better-protected E6s
that should keep me busy...
In reply to ksjs:
Easy, if your a weak punter with a bit of stamina and a modicum of technique. Like me.
Andy F
> (In reply to andy farnell) how can you not boulder 7b+ if youre ticking Fr 8a+? am confused
Easy, if your a weak punter with a bit of stamina and a modicum of technique. Like me.
Andy F
In reply to kathrync:
Excellent route, seconded it back in June a few days before doing the Old Man of Stoer.
I'd love to go back and lead Spantastic, those first few moves up the slabby pillar are superb, you won't be disappointed.
> (In reply to teflonpete)
> Otherwise, ....Spantastic,
Excellent route, seconded it back in June a few days before doing the Old Man of Stoer.
I'd love to go back and lead Spantastic, those first few moves up the slabby pillar are superb, you won't be disappointed.
In reply to andy farnell: i see. i must be a useless thug then, enough said
In reply to Franco Cookson: hope we're not talking just grit E6 here?
In reply to ksjs:
I'd say you were a talented climber who hasn't yet reached his full potential in any one aspect of the sport. Focus on just a single area and achieve to the max!
Andy F
> (In reply to andy farnell) i see. i must be a useless thug then, enough said
I'd say you were a talented climber who hasn't yet reached his full potential in any one aspect of the sport. Focus on just a single area and achieve to the max!
Andy F
In reply to teflonpete:
Too many choices........
I'd like to do some or all of:
Half of that lot would probably be a good year
AJM
Too many choices........
I'd like to do some or all of:
- Onsight a Fr7a and improve/consolidate onsighting in the mid-high 6s
- Redpoint Fr7c - have some 7b+/c routes in mind to work towards on this
- Climb some more classic Gogarth adventures - Mousetrap, Wendigo, The Moon, things like that
- Climb some more conventional E2s and get fit enough for E3s that aren't bold, loose, soft (rock quality and/or for-the-grade) etc. More sport onsighting would probably help with this.
- Actually do some DWS rather than just keeping on planning to
- Get some more alpine classics in - preferably some big routes
- Climb some HSs and at least a VS in my mountain boots to assist with alpine goals
- More Scottish IV and a V if either I get to Scotland for a while or Wales/Lakes/etc is in nick for some weekends.
Half of that lot would probably be a good year
AJM
In reply to teflonpete:
My weekend climbing is going to be very limited this year until September, so Im not going to get out much. However, at the same time I've got some reasnable facilities for training indoors and a much-better-than-expected bouldering session last week has inspired me to try and get stronger and fitter, so Im now hitting a training programme for a few months.
If I manage to get a week somewhere in the summer, and if my training goes to plan, then I reckon getting some more good E2s done would be challenging but achievable by year-end. Specific routes I'd like to do would be Fern Hill, Quietus and something good on limestone in the peak, Shrike and White Slab if I can get to cloggy over the summer (probably unlikely though), Saxon and Central Buttress if I can get to Scafell and Eskdale (probably also unlikely though).
If the training goes really well and I get out a lot from September onwards I'd like to look at an E3, redpointing F7a or working a Font 7a...will see how it goes and how much I get out.
My weekend climbing is going to be very limited this year until September, so Im not going to get out much. However, at the same time I've got some reasnable facilities for training indoors and a much-better-than-expected bouldering session last week has inspired me to try and get stronger and fitter, so Im now hitting a training programme for a few months.
If I manage to get a week somewhere in the summer, and if my training goes to plan, then I reckon getting some more good E2s done would be challenging but achievable by year-end. Specific routes I'd like to do would be Fern Hill, Quietus and something good on limestone in the peak, Shrike and White Slab if I can get to cloggy over the summer (probably unlikely though), Saxon and Central Buttress if I can get to Scafell and Eskdale (probably also unlikely though).
If the training goes really well and I get out a lot from September onwards I'd like to look at an E3, redpointing F7a or working a Font 7a...will see how it goes and how much I get out.
In reply to Si dH:
Your comments about bouldering has reminded me - I'd like to try my hand at some bouldering this year as well as all the other stuff. Not To Be Taken Away would be amazing to try.
Your comments about bouldering has reminded me - I'd like to try my hand at some bouldering this year as well as all the other stuff. Not To Be Taken Away would be amazing to try.
In reply to AJM: NTBTA is one I need to do as well - the bottom is quite hard but I reckon it'll go, problem is then you have to commit ot the rest of it
I felt quite close to a 7a slab at Robin Hood's Stride last week which was really nice, so keen to go back. Perfect conditions though and god knows when I'll next find myself there with them again!
I felt quite close to a 7a slab at Robin Hood's Stride last week which was really nice, so keen to go back. Perfect conditions though and god knows when I'll next find myself there with them again!
In reply to ksjs:
Well my main ambition is to climb stunning lines, so that counts most of Gritstone out.
Well my main ambition is to climb stunning lines, so that counts most of Gritstone out.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
So I'll see you at Kilnsey then...
Andy F
> (In reply to ksjs)
>
>
> Well my main ambition is to climb stunning lines, so that counts most of Gritstone out.
>
>
> Well my main ambition is to climb stunning lines, so that counts most of Gritstone out.
So I'll see you at Kilnsey then...
Andy F
In reply to andy farnell: youre too kind! but its all so fantastic, very hard to focus and miss out. i will try my best though...
In reply to AJM: this is a very cool problem but its not really bouldering: more like a short bold route tagged onto a boulder problem start
In reply to Franco Cookson: good job - it just does my head in a bit when you hear about people climbing E5 / 6 or whatever and they only ever climb on grit. this is a world away from longer trad routes where the skills and style are typically quite different and i dont think the grades are interchangeable.
i really do need to up my game on grit but having moved to north wales in the last few months i guess this might be more difficult to achieve now...
i really do need to up my game on grit but having moved to north wales in the last few months i guess this might be more difficult to achieve now...
In reply to ksjs:
I wouldn't say that's very unusual, particularly for a an 'old skool' type climber. And Andy isn't even that weak really, one of his partners is almost certainly less strong than him and ticked 8b this year. I would have thought the average for a route climber is a not far off best bouldering grade 2 full letters below best rp (i.e font 7b and french 8a).
Anyway my amibition is 'simply' to sort out my acj dislocation and actually to be able to do some proper climbing / training at some point this year.
> (In reply to andy farnell) how can you not boulder 7b+ if youre ticking Fr 8a+? am confused
I wouldn't say that's very unusual, particularly for a an 'old skool' type climber. And Andy isn't even that weak really, one of his partners is almost certainly less strong than him and ticked 8b this year. I would have thought the average for a route climber is a not far off best bouldering grade 2 full letters below best rp (i.e font 7b and french 8a).
Anyway my amibition is 'simply' to sort out my acj dislocation and actually to be able to do some proper climbing / training at some point this year.
In reply to Ian Patterson: i think it was possibly Andy who posted this theory on here a while back and although there were some who disagreed i got the impression that this was pretty much spot on and held true for many climbers.
i think im a bit frustrated as i havent been able to express my strength on sport routes to date but would like to believe that Fr 8b is not a million miles away i.e. Font 7c / V9 ability which i should have done a few weeks back.
good luck with the shoulder, hope this sorts itself out.
i think im a bit frustrated as i havent been able to express my strength on sport routes to date but would like to believe that Fr 8b is not a million miles away i.e. Font 7c / V9 ability which i should have done a few weeks back.
good luck with the shoulder, hope this sorts itself out.
In reply to ksjs:
I wouldn't worry too much about being very good at grit. I never understand all that crap about 'god's own rock'. If Gritstone is God's own rock, then God doesn't really have an eye for a good line. I'll hopefully see you about in wales. I'll be wearing Ronhills all summer
To Andy: Kilnsey is one place i'd like to go.
I wouldn't worry too much about being very good at grit. I never understand all that crap about 'god's own rock'. If Gritstone is God's own rock, then God doesn't really have an eye for a good line. I'll hopefully see you about in wales. I'll be wearing Ronhills all summer
To Andy: Kilnsey is one place i'd like to go.
In reply to Franco Cookson: yes, grit is good but not THAT good. i'll keep an eye out for the Ronhills - very sensible clothing indeed...
In reply to ksjs:
Actually, forget my last post on this. Previously I've never really put any effort into bouldering outside, I've just dabbled. That has changed and I am determined to put some effort in and tick some harder stuff this year. I've got my eye on a couple of do-able 7B+'s in various locations, which I've tried and made good progress already.
Andy F
> (In reply to andy farnell) how can you not boulder 7b+ if youre ticking Fr 8a+? am confused
Actually, forget my last post on this. Previously I've never really put any effort into bouldering outside, I've just dabbled. That has changed and I am determined to put some effort in and tick some harder stuff this year. I've got my eye on a couple of do-able 7B+'s in various locations, which I've tried and made good progress already.
Andy F
its interesting how many people are setting outcome based goals. This isnt great!! these 'ticks' are actually not in your control at all, and in reality are little more than dreams (the equivalent of saying you'd like to win a gold medal at the Olympics when you have no idea of the competition, conditions on the day etc). Its better really to set performance based goals, ie ones which specify what you need to physically do to try to achieve your dream (eg if you are a runner, focus on maintaining rhythm, breathing, sticking to the training plan etc). Some good advice here http://www.achievemore.me.uk/blog/giving-it-attitude/#more-133
on setting performance related goals
In reply to smartclimbing: but if i have fallen on last move of a problem im working not having put much effort into it i "know" that with time it will happen. by extension i "know" that with a bit more time i will tick the next grade up so i can reasonably accurately predict what i can achieve bouldering-wise in the next 2 months.
equally so with routes; i have fallen on very last move of OTMD at LPT having used poor beta. im stronger than i was then and i now have better beta. therefore i "know" this will go. Mussel Beach is easier so if i can do OTMD i can certainly do Mussel Beach. also, having pulled harder moves in bouldering i know i have the strength to do most cruxes at 8a/+.
as for trad, im relatively comfy on E4 and have onsighted Fr 7b+. many E5s 'only' feature Fr 6c / 7a climbing which i am typically solid on and some of the E4s ive done are at the harder end of the scale. therefore E5 and even 6 are reasonable targets if i pick the right ones.
i dont see how my objectives (weather and injury aside) arent in my control? they are in line with my pace of improvement and performances to date.
equally so with routes; i have fallen on very last move of OTMD at LPT having used poor beta. im stronger than i was then and i now have better beta. therefore i "know" this will go. Mussel Beach is easier so if i can do OTMD i can certainly do Mussel Beach. also, having pulled harder moves in bouldering i know i have the strength to do most cruxes at 8a/+.
as for trad, im relatively comfy on E4 and have onsighted Fr 7b+. many E5s 'only' feature Fr 6c / 7a climbing which i am typically solid on and some of the E4s ive done are at the harder end of the scale. therefore E5 and even 6 are reasonable targets if i pick the right ones.
i dont see how my objectives (weather and injury aside) arent in my control? they are in line with my pace of improvement and performances to date.
In reply to andy farnell: im sure you can tick harder than 7b+ without much hassle; i see you lost your Cave virginity recently so hope to see you there at some point over the next while: youd have no problem with Left Wall High, its basically a route.
In reply to smartclimbing:
Not necessarily, it could be a route that inspires you that is now within your capability that you've put off doing until you're good enough.
>
>
> its interesting how many people are setting outcome based goals. This isnt great!! these 'ticks' are actually not in your control at all, and in reality are little more than dreams
>
> its interesting how many people are setting outcome based goals. This isnt great!! these 'ticks' are actually not in your control at all, and in reality are little more than dreams
Not necessarily, it could be a route that inspires you that is now within your capability that you've put off doing until you're good enough.
In reply to smartclimbing:
Ok I'll bite on this, could be an interesting discussion...
I disagree, having such goals keeps me motivated at times when I am struggling to keep up the hard work and also provides a tangible target to measure improvement.
>these 'ticks' are actually not in your control at all, and in reality are little more than dreams (the equivalent of saying you'd like to win a gold medal at the Olympics when you have no idea of the competition, conditions on the day etc).
Also disagree. Your event at the olympics is scheduled for a particular time and you have one chance to achieve it. Achieving many of the goals here will be achieved over a period of time, which gives more flexibility. In addition, achieving gold at the olympics is (in this country at least) the equivalent of aiming to climb 9a+ sport, font 8C or E11 headpoint/E8 onsight, and I don't see many people citing this as their goal for 2010...
I think for a lot of people on this thread performance related goals will be determined by how they are performing whilst trying to achieve the goals they have set out here. E.g. I have a list of routes which I would like to climb but when I try them I determine that I am falling short in a particular area so I will target this area in my training. I will also target weaknesses during the winter season as a result of my indoor wall sessions.
At the end of the day you need some way of measuring whether the performance related goals have been acheieved. Specific grades or particular routes seem to be a good way of measuring this progress.
Maybe I've misunderstood where you are coming from but as I see it, without fairly ambitious (but not unrealistic) outcome based targets what is the driving force for improvement?
>
>Ok I'll bite on this, could be an interesting discussion...
> its interesting how many people are setting outcome based goals. This isnt great!!
I disagree, having such goals keeps me motivated at times when I am struggling to keep up the hard work and also provides a tangible target to measure improvement.
>these 'ticks' are actually not in your control at all, and in reality are little more than dreams (the equivalent of saying you'd like to win a gold medal at the Olympics when you have no idea of the competition, conditions on the day etc).
Also disagree. Your event at the olympics is scheduled for a particular time and you have one chance to achieve it. Achieving many of the goals here will be achieved over a period of time, which gives more flexibility. In addition, achieving gold at the olympics is (in this country at least) the equivalent of aiming to climb 9a+ sport, font 8C or E11 headpoint/E8 onsight, and I don't see many people citing this as their goal for 2010...
> Its better really to set performance based goals, ie ones which specify what you need to physically do to try to achieve your dream (eg if you are a runner, focus on maintaining rhythm, breathing, sticking to the training plan etc). Some good advice here http://www.achievemore.me.uk/blog/giving-it-attitude/#more-133
> on setting performance related goals
> on setting performance related goals
I think for a lot of people on this thread performance related goals will be determined by how they are performing whilst trying to achieve the goals they have set out here. E.g. I have a list of routes which I would like to climb but when I try them I determine that I am falling short in a particular area so I will target this area in my training. I will also target weaknesses during the winter season as a result of my indoor wall sessions.
At the end of the day you need some way of measuring whether the performance related goals have been acheieved. Specific grades or particular routes seem to be a good way of measuring this progress.
Maybe I've misunderstood where you are coming from but as I see it, without fairly ambitious (but not unrealistic) outcome based targets what is the driving force for improvement?
In reply to teflonpete:
My biggest ambition is to get out more... I get out quite a bit already, what with being in the Peak every weekend, but it never seems enough, does it?!
My biggest ambition is to get out more... I get out quite a bit already, what with being in the Peak every weekend, but it never seems enough, does it?!
In reply to teflonpete:
I'd like to climb some more VSs, only did a couple last year. Resurrection at Polldubh and maybe another trip to the Ring Crags are pretty high on the list. Climb some more of the 'classic' easy routes at Polldubh, like Pandora, Vampire, Nutcracker Chimney etc.
Multi-pitch is mostly where my year is at though - the big mountain lines, stuff like Observatory Ridge, Eagle Ridge, pretty much anything on the Buachaille, Great Ridge on Garbh Bheinn, maybe the Etive Slabs if the summer goes well, another trip to Skye...
Mostly though, I'd like to think that I'll make the most of the weather and opportunities available to me, whatever those turn out to be!
Isi
I'd like to climb some more VSs, only did a couple last year. Resurrection at Polldubh and maybe another trip to the Ring Crags are pretty high on the list. Climb some more of the 'classic' easy routes at Polldubh, like Pandora, Vampire, Nutcracker Chimney etc.
Multi-pitch is mostly where my year is at though - the big mountain lines, stuff like Observatory Ridge, Eagle Ridge, pretty much anything on the Buachaille, Great Ridge on Garbh Bheinn, maybe the Etive Slabs if the summer goes well, another trip to Skye...
Mostly though, I'd like to think that I'll make the most of the weather and opportunities available to me, whatever those turn out to be!
Isi
In reply to isi_o:
Some good sounding routes there. I'm hoping to do Observatory Ridge and a couple of routes on the Etive slabs in June.
Some good sounding routes there. I'm hoping to do Observatory Ridge and a couple of routes on the Etive slabs in June.
The Old man of Stoer, thats the plan for 2010, even if it means camping there for a week.
In reply to teflonpete:
My goal is to spotter dab andy F on the end of his 7B+ so he can still claim weakness for another year! At least he can't dab me in return at the top of my 7b+ sport route
My goal is to spotter dab andy F on the end of his 7B+ so he can still claim weakness for another year! At least he can't dab me in return at the top of my 7b+ sport route
In reply to Richard Hession:
Please excuse my ignorance but what is a spotter dab?
Is it touching the guy when he's climbing?
Please excuse my ignorance but what is a spotter dab?
Is it touching the guy when he's climbing?
In reply to teflonpete:
To get out climbing more than last year.
To do something on the Etive Slabs (they look ace).
To get out climbing more than last year.
To do something on the Etive Slabs (they look ace).
In reply to smartclimbing:
I am also interested in your response to Chris.
I was also under the impression that a mix of process and outcome goals was optimal for maximum motivation. Surely it's not as straightforward as 'outcome goals bad, process goals good'?
process goals also quite difficult to define in climbing in a SMART way. So 'get stronger' rightly is not a goal, it is an aim. But in quantifying it many climbers I think would say something like 'boulder personal best grade +2' for which the main force would be getting stronger. Which superficially is an outcome goal, but I think many of the problems you've raised with outcome goals are surely less of an issue? In climbing, the difficulty of a specific route or grade stays fixed and you can come back and work on it, (assuming it's not an onsight goal) so it doesn't tie you in to performing at an unspecified level on a certain day, so while still an outcome goal, most of the factors (apart from, say, conditions) are within your control. Plus it has the advantage that you know when you have ticked it. It would be more analagous to your goal being 'run a sub 3 hour marathon' than olympic gold.
Specific trad routes especially on crags which are conditions dependent (say winter routes) I guess would be the closest example for the olympic gold medal analogy.
I take the point that it's not good to set only outcome goals especially when you have no idea how to achieve them, in which case process goals would be a useful tool, especially where outcome goals are quite ambitious from your current level.
I am also interested in your response to Chris.
I was also under the impression that a mix of process and outcome goals was optimal for maximum motivation. Surely it's not as straightforward as 'outcome goals bad, process goals good'?
process goals also quite difficult to define in climbing in a SMART way. So 'get stronger' rightly is not a goal, it is an aim. But in quantifying it many climbers I think would say something like 'boulder personal best grade +2' for which the main force would be getting stronger. Which superficially is an outcome goal, but I think many of the problems you've raised with outcome goals are surely less of an issue? In climbing, the difficulty of a specific route or grade stays fixed and you can come back and work on it, (assuming it's not an onsight goal) so it doesn't tie you in to performing at an unspecified level on a certain day, so while still an outcome goal, most of the factors (apart from, say, conditions) are within your control. Plus it has the advantage that you know when you have ticked it. It would be more analagous to your goal being 'run a sub 3 hour marathon' than olympic gold.
Specific trad routes especially on crags which are conditions dependent (say winter routes) I guess would be the closest example for the olympic gold medal analogy.
I take the point that it's not good to set only outcome goals especially when you have no idea how to achieve them, in which case process goals would be a useful tool, especially where outcome goals are quite ambitious from your current level.
In reply to Richard Hession:
There's more chance of me getting to the top of a 7B+ than you tying on at the base of your 7b+
Andy F
> (In reply to teflonpete)
>
> My goal is to spotter dab andy F on the end of his 7B+ so he can still claim weakness for another year! At least he can't dab me in return at the top of my 7b+ sport route
>
> My goal is to spotter dab andy F on the end of his 7B+ so he can still claim weakness for another year! At least he can't dab me in return at the top of my 7b+ sport route
There's more chance of me getting to the top of a 7B+ than you tying on at the base of your 7b+
Andy F
In reply to teflonpete:
My ambitions this year will be realised in march. Climb in Font, That is it really, And continue to pull harder i guess.
As long as i am climbing then i really don't mind what happens, because i will be out adventuring with mates and that to me is as good as life gets really
My ambitions this year will be realised in march. Climb in Font, That is it really, And continue to pull harder i guess.
As long as i am climbing then i really don't mind what happens, because i will be out adventuring with mates and that to me is as good as life gets really
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