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Incident on Devils Cellar, 2.1.10 ?

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 vincentvega 03 Jan 2010
After checking on the Ogwen MRT website, it proved my thoughts correct of an incident on Devils Cellar yesterday afternoon.
We had just climbed the route, and the team behind us wernt far behind. We topped out, then took the walk around the top of the crag to the usual decent into Devils Kitchen. After finaly getting down to Llyn Idwal it was dark, we carried on walking out back to the cottage and reached the gate on the path at the side of Llyn Idwal. About 10 mins from the cottage we noticed a flashing headtorch from the route we had just climbed (probably an hour after topping out).
We could see what looked like 4 other headtorches at the base of the crag were there to assist, but we phoned MR anyway, to be safe.

Hope those involved are ok, and hope we made the correct decision to ring MR.

Allan

 DaveR 03 Jan 2010
In reply to vincentvega:

That's my housemate. As it says on the BBC he has a broken leg and also a broken ankle I've been told. They're being pinned back together as I type. I'm sure he'll be back in the mountains soon, he's not the sort to let a little accident like this slow him down too much
In reply to vincentvega: I hope the climber recovers quickly and i am sure he know's what a good partner he had that day! Well done to his partner for keeping calm and cool under those conditions.
OP vincentvega 03 Jan 2010
In reply to vincentvega:

Yes, praise must go to his partner in a situation like that.
I hope he makes a speedy recovery and he isnt too shook up by the event.
Sitting here in the warmth of my home makes me feel totaly helpless, especially being the team to climb it before them.

Best wishes

Allan
 DANNYdjb 03 Jan 2010
In reply to vincentvega: Glad to here things have turned out ok. I stayed at gwern gof uchaf and it sounded pretty frantic from what with the helicopter leaving then returning. I hope everybody recovers.
regards,
Dan
 Diggler 03 Jan 2010
In reply to vincentvega:

It was me and three of my mates who helped them out. We heard the partner of the guy who had fallen politely shouting for help as were leaving the crag.
We set up a belay to get him off his own ropes so his partner could abseil down to us. After an unsuccessful first visit from the helicopter (due to the confined area) and 5 hours or so in the (rather cold) gully he was flown out.
The mountain rescue sure do know there stuff and should be praised. There looked to be about 13 of them involved in the incident and they worked like clockwork to stabilize and lower the injured climber down to the base of the cliff. I actually felt quite privileged to get to help them out when lowering him.

Hope he makes a swift recovery

Mark
 woolsack 03 Jan 2010
In reply to vincentvega: Makes a nice change to see it reported sensibly too on the BBC news webpage although I suppose the tabloids will have their opportunity to misrepresent it tomorrow
 katie75 03 Jan 2010
In reply to Diggler: well done mate.
Hummer 03 Jan 2010
In reply to vincentvega: I was out Saturday with my Dad making the most of some great conditions. We started walking down from Devils Appendix at about 15:30 and were suprised to see several parties just getting ready to climb when in favourable conditions you would only have about 30mins of light left.
 Jones 03 Jan 2010
I'm new to Winter Climbing but have climbed Trad and Sport for around 2 and 1/2 years, and am surprised that you can fall 40m with protection!
I'm a bit mental with my protection in Trad, placing some 4-5m if the climbing is easy, closer if i'm feeling sketchy.
As I understand it...you'll fall twice as far as your last protection plus any rope stretch.
Would you be happy climbing (an estimated) 15m above your last protection?
Or are we assuming some bolts / screws came out?
 tipsy 03 Jan 2010
In reply to Jones:

Bolts? In winter climbing in north wales? You're joking right?

There are no bolts, and you often don't have the choice to place pro closer together, simply because there's nowhere to place it!
 RCrockford 03 Jan 2010
In reply to Jones:

I was also there (with Diggler), and from what he and his climbing partner said at least some of his gear blew on the way past. The belay held (obviously), and possibly some gear above it, though I was a little unclear on what exactly. I think most or all of the pitch protection was screws. The belay was two pegs and two wires.

As to run outs - you get much larger run outs in winter compared to trad due to less available protection. 15m run outs are far from unheard of.
OP vincentvega 03 Jan 2010
In reply to tipsy:

Obviously i dont know what happened, but the route in question is pretty much all screws, and dont forget, on steep ice like here, you are nearly always placing screws at waist level, so always climbing above your gear.
With a 40m fall id almost certainly say some scrrews ripped.

Allan
OP vincentvega 03 Jan 2010
In reply to Diggler:

Nice job. A brilliant effort by all you guys who were there.
Allan
 Jones 03 Jan 2010
In reply to tipsy:
> Bolts? In winter climbing in north wales? You're joking right?

Allright, I did say I was new to Winter!
I didn't know you could take a fall that far. No Wonder he broke bones then. Poor B****rd!
Good work to his partner for catching him though, and reacting so well in the rescue.
p.s. Big Praise must go to the MRT's in the area. They've been busy boys and girls over the last few weeks.
 jonah jones 03 Jan 2010
In reply to Jones:
Hi all,

Was also one of the climbers who went across to help along with Diggler (Mark), Rich, Steve.

Spent around 4 to 5 hours on the stance next to the injured climber and his partner mainly trying to keep him warm, doing anything the Mountain Rescue asked, and generaly talking total bollocks to keep him conscious (the last bit was probably worse for him than the fall, endless questions about climbing, what happened, can he feel his toes .......).

Anyhow, from both leader and belayer, it seems as though he had completed the 2nd pitch crux and then fell from easier ground above ripping out the gear as he went. Only the first runner placed on the pitch held.

His belayer then managed to lower him to the base of the first pitch, and called out to see if any of us could contact mountain rescue.

Top effort from the belayer for managing to hold such a long fall - one of the knots was so tight we had to cut the rope to free him from the system once attached to the belay Diggler setup.

Also very impressed with the Mountain Rescue, many of whom has already been out on the hill for fun themselves earlier in the day.

Hope both members of the climbing team are now ok, if either of you read this please send an update.

Jonah
 Andy White 04 Jan 2010
In reply to vincentvega:

Jonah, Diggler (Mark), Rich, Steve; we collected Alys when you came off the hill, I think we managed to thank most of you on behalf of all of our group, in particular her and Rob; but she had hoped to do it person before she was whisked off for the debrief. Once again thank you all for your help and support the other night, you missed out on some wonderful Chilli con Carne courtesy of the MR team though !!!

Having spoken to Rob at the hospital, it appears he had gotten over the crux, and was moving through the easier but poorly conditioned ice at the top of the route when the ice slab he was on broke free, taking out all four points of contact resulting in the fall, which there is simply no way of recovering from.
On the way down two bits of gear blew, he mentioned a screw in some rubbish ice and and a peg. Fortunately he had a screw level with the belay that held, this was backed up by what Alys and the MRT described as a bomber belay.

We at the SWMC are all extremely proud of Alys's handling of the situation, very much in keeping with her cool, safety conscious and coordinated attitude to climbing; I can't think of a better partner to have when confronted with their situation!

I'm sure Rob will update this message once hes back online, or else Dave will.

I'd just like to add that most of our group met with the Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Team the day before, on New Years Day on the way up to Idwal; and were really impressed by the proactive approach from the team in raising awareness amongst visitors, climbers and walkers to the area about the risks of Winter conditions in the Valley as they set off from the car-park; very very glad I donated my couple of quid the day beforehand!!
 FedUp 04 Jan 2010
In reply to vincentvega:

Here's to a speedy recovery for the climber involved.
 jonah jones 04 Jan 2010
In reply to Andy White:
Cheers Andy,

Thanks for the update - and glad its good news.

Wasn't being impersonal not naming Alys and Rob, just didn't think it was my place to broadcast their names.

Was very impressed with both of their responses to the accident. Rob had had a go at splinting his own leg with an ice axe before we even got there - must have been agony. Alys remained well in control throughout, really getting stuck in to help her climbing partner, and to keep him motivated.

Shame about missing the Chilli, but had to get home (ended up with a crap pasty from the A55 services).

Jonah
 stewieatb 04 Jan 2010
In reply to jonah jones:
> (In reply to Andy White)
>
> Shame about missing the Chilli, but had to get home (ended up with a crap pasty from the A55 services).

I think i would have preferred the 40m zipper to motorway pasty. Get well soon Rob, well done to everyone that helped and to the MRT for their most 'interesting' rescue ever.
 DaveR 04 Jan 2010
In reply to Andy White:

just spoke to him. He's doing well. His leg has been put back together and he's now enjoying the morphine.. He's hoping to be back home by the end of the week if the physio says he's ok on crutches. Big thanks to everyone who helped him out, and to the MRT!

Dave
 ChrisHolloway1 05 Jan 2010
In reply to vincentvega: Good interview with Chris Lloyd from Ogwen valley MRT on the incident

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/8438671.stm

He makes some very valid points! Glad to here Rob is recovering well! Well done to Alys keeping her cool, I imagine many people would crumble under that kind of pressure!
 Rob84 09 Jan 2010
In reply to vincentvega: Hi all, I’m the guy who lobbed off last week and thought I’d come on here to say thanks for the messages and say what happened from my memory. I haven’t had access to emails whilst in hospital so apologies for being so late in getting this up. I'm back home in Cardiff now (got back last night) which I'm very happy about and hopping about on crutches which is all good. I’ll be on crutches for 6 weeks minimum after which I’m planning to hammer the physio and get back to full fitness and into the mountains ASAP. So, here’s what I remember (appologies for it being a bit long!):


We started the day having a look at the Devil’s Kitchen (route) which wasn’t in so we headed over to Stingray (which was a cracking route – highly recommended). We met Diggler, Jonah Jones & friends at the bottom for quick chat and then jumped on The Devil’s Cellar, climbing the first pitch pretty quickly and opting to finish up the lefthand top pitch. This pitch ended up being a bit sketchy with less than ideal ice, turf blobs and few mixed moves on the gully walls but some great climbing (again thoroughly recommended, providing you don’t balls it up like I did!) I’d climbed through the crux and was on the easy upper section of gully (probably II/III ground) a few meters from the top when the ice/neve I was on detached and sent me on the biggest and nastiest ride I’ve taken (I don’t fall as a rule – I’m a wimp and have always avoided it even leading indoors/on bolts).

I’d placed a fair bit of gear, (2 screws, a knifeblade, a nut and a warthog) all of which was terrible due to the ice being aerated and the exposed rock being shattered and loose. All the gear ripped bar the first piece (a screw I’d placed immediately above the belay). The other screw which I knew was awful when I placed it and had clipped a screamer to pulled without the screamer activating which shows how pants it was. On the plus side maybe the gear ripping took some force out of the fall – who knows?

I ended up lobbing something like 40m, pinballing off the sides of the gully/corner on the way down at least some of which I was aware of. I blacked out but I’ve no idea for how long and came to in the bottom of the gully where the route starts, upside down with my feet tangled in the ropes. After a bit I managed to get a grip of myself, untangle my feet, get upright and let Alys know I was OK. I knew I’d broken my femur immediately as there was an extra joint in my thigh so knew I wouldn’t be walking out. I also had a good idea I’d done something to my ankle (although it wasn’t too painful inside the boot) as I had smashed the connector bar of the crampon in half in the fall and the front end had fallen off my foot. I tried to splint my leg with an axe and a few slings but in all honestly did a pretty shoddy job of it. I got Alys to lower me down the gully a bit looking for a belay/ledge I could get myself on to get my weight off the ropes but couldn’t find anything and had just started trying to dig a bucket seat when Diggler and his mates stuck they’re heads around the corner and started heading up to help, which was a massive relief.

At this point I called mountain rescue which was a mistake – I should have called as soon as I’d untangled myself to give them as much time as possible but I wasn’t thinking too clearly I guess. I’d just managed to get my location and situation across when signal cut out which was incredibly lucky. Diggler & mates had got to me by this point and started setting up a belay to get my weight off the ropes to Alys so she could ab off. Once they had done that they got me into my belay jacket and mitts, got some water down me, kept me talking and were generally all top blokes putting up with my whinging until Ogwen MRT arrived. (Thanks so much guys – if you could send me an email with your contact details I’d like to get in touch with you personally to thank you.)
 Rob84 09 Jan 2010
In reply to Rob84: We could see the MRT headtorches coming in along the path beside the lake and I can tell you those guys know how to move quick, and considering the kit they have to lug in with them just makes it all the more impressive. At this point the adrenaline was probably wearing off a bit and my memory is a bit hazy so I might not have all this in the right order, but the MRT advance party arrived and started making their assessment of the situation and getting me ready to move. Also a RAF Sea King was trying to get in to me and may have dropped off more MRT guys but I’m not sure – either way their downdraft was kicking up too much spindrift too close to the cliff for them to winch me out from where I was so they backed off. I was given morphine, my legs were tied together and I was lowered down the gully and slopes below until a point where the MRT guys had kicked out a platform in the snow to get a stretcher set up. (I should probably mention that the approach gully to the climb isn’t really very steep at all – you wouldn’t think too much about it walking up it but once you have to work on it you realise its steep enough to make things really awkward – everything slides off if not tied down which must have made the MRT’s job a real pain.) They got me into the stretcher and fully clipped in/blanketed up and I started to warm up a bit. I was then lowered down past (I think) another 1-2 belay stations they had setup to a point where the chopper could get to me.

Soon after I was winched up and whisked off to Bangor A&E where they took great care of me - relocated my dislocated ankle and saved my foot, got me stable, x-rays done etc and I was in surgery the next morning. The final tally of injuries was a broken femur, tibia, fibia, dislocated ankle, possible broken ribs and a few other minor cuts and scrapes to my head, arms and legs. The rest of the week isn’t a particularly interesting story – just me recovering in hospital and gradually getting up and about on crutches etc. I’m obviously very grateful for all the help I was given by the hospital staff.

Most importantly, I might not be here now (and certainly not in such a good way), had it not been for the help of many people. Massive thanks to:

- Alys (my climbing partner) - who was awesome throughout, kept a cool head in tough circumstances and must have been borderline hypothermic by the end of it after giving me her down jacket
- The climbers (Diggler, Jonah Jones and friends) who helped me out in the bottom of the gully, got me on a belay, got some warm kit for me and kept me talking and awake – cheers guys you were great and again please get in touch if you see this.
- Ogwen MRT - total heroes the lot of them, consummate professionals, slick, very undervalued and all volunteers who do this just because they like helping people out. Total legends along with every other MRT in the country.
- Search & Rescue from RAF Valley - likewise utter heroes, especially as apparently the chopper was icing up and almost had to ditch on the way to A&E – they obviously pulled out all the stops to get me out in less than ideal weather
- The A&E staff who managed to get my kit off me without cutting off too much plus pretty much saved my foot after it got frostbite and went black from the dislocation/cold - very happy about that obviously!
- The surgical team who did an amazing job patching me up
- The physios who got me back on my good foot pretty damn quickly
- Mel, Andy, Nik and Alys who came to A&E on the night to bring me some clothes, see how I was doing and say hi
- Nik for getting my car and kit back to Cardiff for me – you’re a star, cheers mate!
- My mum who has been awesome, drove up to visit and has surprised me by not getting too freaked out (I think she has now accepted the fact that I'm an idiot climber with limited mental capacity and won’t be stopping anytime soon!)
- My mate Gareth who is a medical student based up in Bangor for the next few months and kept coming to have a chat in hospital before and after his shifts as well as lending me Cold Climbs to keep me entertained
- Sarah (my housemate) who drove to Bangor after a night shift yesterday to pick me up and endured a 12hour round trip in crap driving conditions - I love you mate!
- Everyone who has sent me messages/texts to keep me entertained throughout

I think that's everyone but if I missed anyone out apologies and I do appreciate it! I'm planning on running the Welsh 14 peaks/similar in the summer to try and raise some much needed money for Ogwen MRT providing my recovery goes ok so I may be on here begging later in the year. Cheers, Rob
 sebf 09 Jan 2010
Quite a story Rob, and one you'll enjoy telling for many years I'm sure. I hope someone was silly enough to take some photos at the time - you'll want them one day!
 TobyA 09 Jan 2010
In reply to Rob84:

> I tried to splint my leg with an axe and a few slings but in all honestly did a pretty shoddy job of it.

Well, never mind. I'm sure you'll have a better system worked out for next time!

More seriously, thanks for writing it up - very interesting to hear. And well done to your friends, the MRT, the RAF, NHS and indeed yourself - it sounds like you were acting pretty coolly as well considering everything! Get well soon.
 Doghouse 09 Jan 2010
In reply to Rob84:

Good on ya fella, best wishes for a speedy recovery.
Yrmenlaf 09 Jan 2010
In reply to Richard123:

Well done, everyone!

Y.
 Mike Conlon 09 Jan 2010
In reply to Rob84: Well done all.
 rachcrewe 09 Jan 2010
In reply to Rob84:

Good work MD! What a lucky boy you are. Wil lbe round soon with some non-alcoholic beers to cheer you up!
 DaveWarren 09 Jan 2010
In reply to vincentvega:

Get well soon mate
Anglesey Pete 09 Jan 2010
In reply to Rob84: Wishing you a speedy recovery Rob!
 FrankW 09 Jan 2010
In reply to Rob84:

Hope you have a speedy recovery. Quite a story for the pub in future years.

Frank
 Diggler 10 Jan 2010
In reply to Rob84:

Good to hear your up and about. Running the 14/15 peaks!!! Did it a few years ago, tis a long hard slog let me know when your doing it and I will chuck some sponsorship money your way.

On another note lead Face route on Cwn Glas yesterday and freaked myself out throughout the main pitch thinking of you bouncing down that gully. Your a hard man to have survived!!

Speedy recovery
Mark
 Diggler 10 Jan 2010
OK make that Face Route on Cyrn Las before I get abused
 Diggler 10 Jan 2010
In reply to Rob84:

PS where you staying at the Aviemore Youth Hostel on the 18th 19th of December last year. I think it was you giving me and my mate beta on
Invernookie as you had just done it.
 Hewin 10 Jan 2010
I wish you a speedy recovery Rob, we'd been in the area but left not long before you had your accident. Good to see you are raring to get back at it
OP vincentvega 10 Jan 2010
In reply to Rob84:

Cheers for the write up Rob. Being the party ahead of you, ( you were approaching me at the 1st belay as i set of seconding the upper right hand finnish), its been on my how it went wrong for you.
Glad to hear your in a good mindset and are eager to get back at it, i wish you a speedy recovery.

Well done for keeping cool in a nightmare situation, and well done to all that helped.

Allan
Gruff 11 Jan 2010
To anybody who's missing an ice screw from the said event get in touch with a description and I'll do my best to return it to you. I suspect it might be Rob's as it seems from looking at the gravely core that it'd been placed in turf?

Wishing you a speedy recovery!

Gruff
 Rob84 12 Jan 2010
In reply to Diggler: Hey Diggler - no I was staying in Newtonmore back in Dec so not guilty for the beta I'm afraid! Cheers, Rob

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